TorchLAB V5 Triple LED drop ins - Programming, 3500L, Secondary LED

[d337944]

Guys

Anyone noticed stepping down from the after-burner setting at the 10 second mark, every time?

I've got mine in a torchlab body with Surefire adapter, running AW 2 x 18350 batteries. I've tried several freshly charged pairs and am using a zero-rez switch ... yet every time around the 10 second mark it starts stepping down about 3 times a few seconds apart, then remains pretty stable. I've tried this when the flashlight is room temperature, hot, and even with the bezel in a mug of water.

I've also tried resetting the temp cut-off to 65 degrees C to ensure that's not the issue.

Any ideas? My AWs are a few years old (not the current 800 mah ones), but have not been used much at all.


Cheers
Andrew

 

[boafish]

Mine does the same thing, exact same setup

 

[d337944]

Mine does the same thing, exact same setup

At least its not just mine playing up. Hopefully its something simple we're missing mate, and that some expert here can chime in to advise. :thumbsup:

I've tried loading the factory default settings also, just in case, but the results are the same.

 

[scout24]

Mine steps down quickly on a pair of 18350's also, regardless of tailcap. Thought it was my McClicky adding resistance, switched to a ZeroRes. I figured the cells can push the amps required for Afterburner, but at that draw the voltage sag on the small cells was the issue. 2x18650 does not step down... :devil: I'm sure ElectronGuru will be along shortly...

 

[d337944]

Thanks for that info Scout24 ... Maybe that's it, since all my 18350s do the same. I've got AW 18500s on order for a bored 9P, so hopefully they might also do the trick. Cheers!

 

[Dingle1911]

Mine steps down as described above as well on 2 x 18350's with ZeroResShorty. Even with battery stretch turned off, I am getting the step down from After Burner.

ETA: My cells are efest purple rated at 7A discharge.

 

[scout24]

That was only my opinion, don't quote me!!! I'm sure EG will sort it out.

Thanks for that info Scout24 ... Maybe that's it, since all my 18350s do the same. I've got AW 18500s on order for a bored 9P, so hopefully they might also do the trick. Cheers!

 

[paskal]

Help me guys, my V5 XM-L clear optic with default setting arrived yesterday. so just able to test it out as 6P the host showed up today. i'm try reprograming the light via the website. and follow the instruction the oveready site. just re-programming to RHML but after done the programming as red light off. i switch on the light but after the red light it goes fllick once and press again turn red and same thing goes on. i try to re-program again with turn the programming mode on the light but the light seem not receive the programming as the light keep turn red. i try to do that almost five minutes but still the red light not turning of means it didnt receive the program. i'm using zerorez brass insert. and single cell XTAR IMR 2200 mAh rating 25 amp freshly charged. i pulled the cell out a leave the drop-in without connection for more than 10 minutes. but after repeat the programming mode still having a same problem.

 

[Grizzman]

That does sound like the light isn't receiving the new code. Is the brightness of your monitor turned all the way up to maximum?

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

That does sound like the light isn't receiving the new code. Is the brightness of your monitor turned all the way up to maximum?

Agree, my iPhone has to be full brightness to program, same with CPU monitor.

 

[Dingle1911]

I also found that I hold the light about 2"-3" off the screen. If I rest the light directly on my phone screen the light doesn't receive the new program.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Whatever device you're using to program, adjust the screen to maximum brightness. Maybe programming in a dark environment will help?

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

I also found that I hold the light about 2"-3" off the screen. If I rest the light directly on my phone screen the light doesn't receive the new program.

I always just set my light upright on my phone, bezel to glass. Works like a charm.

 

[badtziscool]

You might also consider the ambient lighting as well. Especially if you have a crenelated bezel. If the ambient light is too bright (sunlight), then the signals from the screen may not have enough contrast to be picked up by the module.

 

[paskal]

thanks all. yeah been setting my desktop to full blast brightness. after do some trial and error i found that bounce sensor adjustment is the culprit. at first i'm setting it at very sensitive level. after i change it to low level now its follow all my programming. the only problem now is cant get the bounce switch function. it's not switching to red ambient light when my bezel close to any surface. even if i set it to 'no change'.

 

[Grizzman]

When you put the light into programming mode, the red indicator light illuminates, showing it's ready to accept the new code? After the video has been played to the light, the red indicator light goes out, then you click the switch once to turn it off? If this is true, then the programming does seem to be accepted by the light.

By the statement of flick once do you mean that when you try to turn on the light that it flashes white light brightly for a split second, then the red indicator LED turns on? If so, then the culprit is likely the bounce being set too high.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

thanks all. yeah been setting my desktop to full blast brightness. after do some trial and error i found that bounce sensor adjustment is the culprit. at first i'm setting it at very sensitive level. after i change it to low level now its follow all my programming. the only problem now is cant get the bounce switch function. it's not switching to red ambient light when my bezel close to any surface. even if i set it to 'no change'.

I didn't think bounce sensor level had anything to do with "programming" sensitivity.

 

[paskal]

When you put the light into programming mode, the red indicator light illuminates, showing it's ready to accept the new code? After the video has been played to the light, the red indicator light goes out, then you click the switch once to turn it off? If this is true, then the programming does seem to be accepted by the light.

By the statement of flick once do you mean that when you try to turn on the light that it flashes white light brightly for a split second, then the red indicator LED turns on? If so, then the culprit is likely the bounce being set too high.

yep it's flick once. from the previous setting i set the bounce sensitivity to 100 and when change to low all functional according to my setting

 

[paskal]

I didn't think bounce sensor level had anything to do with "programming" sensitivity.

that happen when i select between 100 to 80. my drop in received that setting and when i switched on the light the second level after read its turn flick once and any other level not functioning.

 

[FPSRelic]

yep it's flick once. i think the sensor dont receive the programming correctly. my mistake maybe because the screen are too dim or the ambient light are too bright. but yeah. from the previous setting i set the bounce sensitivity to 100 and when change to low all functional according to my setting

This makes sense if you had bounce sensitivity set to 100. I've found that using a single cell you need to set the sensitivity to 95 or 97 before the protection kicks in. Having said that, I don't bother setting it higher than 75, as heat levels aren't an issue unless I'm using 2 cells.