Ultrafire 502 and a30

Fcmem

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Oct 2, 2010
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Hello, flash light newbie here and i need some model advice.

i've been browsing DX lately and tried the forum there but im not getting much response.


Im looking to jump into LED lights.. right now all i have is a few cheapo 9led lights.. which are ok in a completely dark room but are'nt very bright.


so after much look 2 specific models have caught my eye.
The ultrafire 502b (single mode) and the a30b (again single mode)

now what i want the lights for would be 2 for gun mounting (1 a30 & 502) and a 3rd for EDC (2nd a30)


it seems the 502 is well liked for it's price, however i found 3 different versions of it

a 250 lum, 320 lum, and 900 lum.

i've already ruled out the 900 lum.. so it's down to the

250 ** DX link deleted - Kestrel **
and
320 ** DX link deleted - Kestrel **

the 250 seems to be highly liked.. but is the 320 worth getting?
how is the heat on these? i want a light i can run from start to finish without worrying about it killing it self.

as for the a30 i can't find any reviews on it (yes i searched here too)
** DX link deleted - Kestrel **

i like the a30's compact size so i thought it would be good for EDC.. also i want to mount one under the barrel on a hi-point 995, i've got 5 inches to play with and i think this flash light would fit good.

so im looking for general advice on these, thanks!
 
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I think your talking about XR-E XP-G MC-E and SSC p7 emitters ...
If its your first light , the XR-E R2 version would be hard to go wrong with ..
Its been made for a while now , and they should have it down pat . [ the 250 ]

What batteries did you want to run ?
 
ah ok so you think i should go for the 250lum 502 then?

what about the a30? any exp with it?

18650: ** DX link deleted - Kestrel **
16340: ** Ebay link deleted - Kestrel **

not sure what batteries i will want to run in the 502 i hear 18650's last a lot longer (capacity) but 16340's will give a brighter light.. although it will cut off (dead) without warning.

but the a30 uses 123a's any way.
 
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yeah I have the a30b..I use rcr's in it and it's really bright..gets pretty hot, but will run 45 mins or so on a battery...for the price it's a great choice..
 
how hot? hot enough you think it would kill it self in short order? or to hot to hold?
 
how hot? hot enough you think it would kill it self in short order? or to hot to hold?

nah it's not that bad..i've used it as a bike light for 30-40 mins at a time and it still works great..it just gets pretty warm as all my lights do...
 
I bought a 502B custom moded on ebay with an SST-50 1,200 lumen Led ..... The light is amazing and I got it shipped from California for a total of $38.00

wf502a.jpg


sst50a.jpg
 
thanks for the info on the a30 i think i'll definately be getting it then..

still debating on 250 or 320 model on the 502




wow 1200? im sure thats not actual but it must be extremely bright even so.

i bet it sucks the batteries dry :p
 
Had a few 502 r2 single mode lights through my hands now, the quality is fair and the light output good, but the tailswitch has too many issues for me. Just got a skyray r5 and it simply blows the 502 away in everything but price, it has 5 modes which to me is a con but it may be of use to you, honestly though if you buy a 502 and you dont know your stuff to fix stuff then you may regret it, I do find stuff from kd more reliable for what its worth
 
ya i hear tail switches go bad on a lot of lights.. they sell replacements? how hard is that to fix when it happens?

i wouldn't mind having a model that had say low/high, or low/mid/high

but i dont like the 5 mode lights, i dont want sos or strobe.

so i wanna just keep it simple.
 
1200 lumens is pretty much an impossibility as you'd need to be pushing about 5 amps. Most protected cells would shut down at those current levels, also the heat would destroy the module in minutes.

But as for switches yes they can go bad. Good thing they are generally easy to replace. There's a simple plastic retainer and ring you unscrew, easy with a pair of needlenose pliers and it holds down the switch. The switch is a discrete component that simply comes out and is easy to replace.
 
I have several UF502 and UF501 lights. The switches gave problems on several, but were easy to fix. The problem was caused by excessive solder on the connections to the attached PC board. This caused the contact to touch the threads on the cap. A small piece of electrical tape was placed over each contact to prevent the problem. All switches have worked reliably since this was done.l
 
Is there a Romisen or ITP that may suit you? They are far better lights, check out Shiningbeam
 
Why do you seem so set on the 502B? Ultrafire isn't the most reliable company, and I really don't think they would hold up, gun mounted. Like vickers said there are better lights out there. If you really are set on the UF, I would at least get the XP-G (350 lumen) version.
 
Is there a Romisen or ITP that may suit you? They are far better lights, check out Shiningbeam

^^^^ Great advice.

Shiningbeam is a great vendor with unique versions of some popular lights, and returns/exchanges are a breeze !!!

Good luck with your choice !!!
 
Is there a Romisen or ITP that may suit you? They are far better lights, check out Shiningbeam
i dont know.. i mean im a flash light noob.. they all look about the same to me other then body style & price.

Why do you seem so set on the 502B? Ultrafire isn't the most reliable company, and I really don't think they would hold up, gun mounted. Like vickers said there are better lights out there. If you really are set on the UF, I would at least get the XP-G (350 lumen) version.
because i had seen several other people mount them on rifles.

what would cause a ultrafire to fail gun mounted that something else would'nt?

i mean what specific area would be lacking on the ultrafire for this purpose?

i've heard other people tell me this to but they always sight "build quality" but nothing specific.. is'nt the light just a metal body, emitter, batteries, springs and a switch of some sort?

btw if i buy both these im thinking maybe i should go straight for 16340's and not bother with 18650's.. reason i say that is 502 would get used the lease perhaps it would be good idea to go with 16340's so all 3lights can share batteries rather then have 18650's that only get used every once in awhile.

i know run time will be lower using 2 16340's, what do you guys think?
 
i've heard other people tell me this to but they always sight "build quality" but nothing specific.. is'nt the light just a metal body, emitter, batteries, springs and a switch of some sort?

Well yeah, but it's more then that. "Build quality" usually refers to good and consistent machining, an accurate anodization job, stronger glass, clearer glass, etc. Basically those things, but better. You were using very generalized terms, for example there are different types of switches and reflectors, made in various ways and and various costs, and preforming accordingly.
You wouldn't want a directly driven flashlight with flimsy wires, a poor soldering job, resistors for controlling output and pieces of cardboard instead of metal rings in the LED pill. Cheaper lights will fail sooner. But the main reason I'm saying a gun shock would kill it easier, is solidity of the host overall. Thinner metal and poorly soldered connections.

And you said yourself:

ya i hear tail switches go bad on a lot of lights.. they sell replacements? how hard is that to fix when it happens?
You would really be surprised feeling an Ultrafire and Surefire side-by-side. Now, I'm not saying you should go buy yourself a SF, even I consider them overpriced. But you could at least stretch to the higher-end budget lights. You can get yourself a 504B or a Seraph Clone in XP-G for a little over $20.
 
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You would really be surprised feeling an Ultrafire and Surefire side-by-side. Now, I'm not saying you should go buy yourself a SF, even I consider them overpriced. But you could at least stretch to the higher-end budget lights. You can get yourself a 504B or a Seraph Clone in XP-G for a little over $20.
i would never pay for a surefire.. im sure the quality is good but they're just simply to expensive.

what makes the 504 better then the 502? i mean.. we're talking UF vs UF here now.
 
i would never pay for a surefire.. im sure the quality is good but they're just simply to expensive.

what makes the 504 better then the 502? i mean.. we're talking UF vs UF here now.

The 504B has proven to be a good host. Not exactly standard of UF, but apparently an exact copy of the Solarforce L2, which is a great host, but the same thing at a higher cost.
 
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