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I'd long wished for a small and bright light with decent run time. Anything larger than a 1-AAA light is too large for a key chain, and thus of little interest to me. (you can't use a light if it's not with you!) Let's see what I can do with an UltraFire WF-602c flashlight and a Cree XLamp 7090 XR-E LED.
Here is the stock UltraFire WF-602c head:
I removed the Luxeon:
I ground the top of the light flat to make room for a Cree XR-E and sanded the aluminum smooth. The Cree is attached with Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy. I clipped the corners of the Cree so that the bottom contacts would not conduct to the aluminum of the flashlight.
I replaced the boost circuit with a 2-ohm 1/4-watt resistor:
I replaced the stock lens with an acrylic hemisphere. The hemisphere measures 0.482 inches in diameter. A 0.5-inch lens would have been too wide. The acrylic hemisphere sits right above the stock reflector, and is held in place by it. The hemisphere makes a good seal with the o-ring.
The light measures 14 x 73 mm. An AA battery, in comparison, measures 14 x 50 mm.
Here are the finished light, its battery, and an AA battery for comparison:
Comparison beam shots at two different exposures from 9.5 inches:
In case you've never seen an UltraFire AAA running on a lithium ion battery, it has a small, intense hot spot and a wide, bright flood.
I don't know if it's clear from the images, but the Cree mod's hot spot is a little brighter and much bigger. The side spill is narrower, dimmer, and less uniform, but still bright enough to be useful.
I measured the current by putting a 0.1-ohm resistor in place of the battery tube. (you don't want to measure current by putting an amp meter in series; the resistance is too high) Note that for the stock light my current measurement is for the battery, not the LED. So I don't know the exact current through the LED, but I will assume it is close to the 990 mA that I measured. With such high current, it is no wonder that people are reporting only 20 minutes of run time with the stock light!
Here are some current measurements for batteries at different levels of charge. (voltages were measured open-circuit across the battery)
344 mA @ 4.04 V (nearly a full charge from my DSD charger)
324 mA @ 3.90 V
292 mA @ 3.80 V
250 mA @ 3.71 V
196 mA @ 3.55 V
100 mA @ 2.75 V (light was visibly dimming at this point)
In my run-time test with an UltraFire 500-mAh 10440 cell, the modded light stayed bright for 1 hour 23 minutes, and dimmed steadily for the next 13 minutes. When I stopped the test, the light was very dim and the battery's open circuit voltage was 2.8 V. The good news here is that the user has ample indication that the battery needs to be recharged before there is any risk of damage to the lithium ion battery. I was shooting for run time closer to 2 hours, but I think the UltraFire battery is overrated. (Tronic's test showed only 305 mAh)
This shot shows the spot pattern in detail. I calculated the beam angle to be 15 degrees.
In practical use, the beam pattern is not distracting at all. Here is a shot from 11 feet. In reality, the hot spot is slightly less intense than you see here, and the side spill is brighter.
I couldn't be happier with the way this mod turned out. The bright, wide hot spot is great for a flashlight of any size, let alone one small enough to put on a key chain. I believe that this light manages to put so many lumens into the spot while maintaining decent run time because of two things: the Cree XR-E's high luminous efficacy (lumens per watt), and the combination of the LED's radiation pattern and the acrylic hemisphere's focusing power. It's not a super thrower, but what do you expect for something so small? I'll be surprised if there's another flashlight this small that puts so many lumens into the spot while maintaining decent run time.
Incidentally, the DSD charger is very easily adapted to charge 10440 cells by bending the contacts. There's also an AAA Nano charger that Dae sells.
UltraFire Problems
Three of the four UltraFire lights I purchased from FifthUnit had problems. One of the lights appeared to be a redesign that corrected these problems.
The o-rings on the battery tube and the LED mount tube were far too small. They were stretched thin, and probably didn't make a seal at all. One of o-rings broke. I'm still searching for the right size replacement o-ring.
There is a circuit board with foil contacts that touch the end of the battery tube (when it is screwed down) and the positive terminal of the battery. The foil ring that makes contact with the end of the battery tube is too narrow, and doesn't quite touch the battery tube. It was clear that someone had already tried to fix this by soldering some tiny pieces of wire to the foil trace, but they didn't do a very good job with the fix. I ended up fixing it myself by adding three little pieces of wire that extend from the inner edge of the ring to the outer edge of the circuit board. You want the wires to go to the edge of the circuit board, but not past it, because you don't want to make contact with the threads. (which would allow the light to turn on inadvertently) I also added a wire to the center contact so that the battery would touch. Otherwise the wires I added at the edge would touch the battery and prevent it from making contact. Please don't make fun of my soldering job.
Also, for all of my lights the lanyard holes were drilled a little bit close to the edge. I was afraid that a split ring might rip the side of the hole out, so I drilled a smaller hole further from the edge.
I'd long wished for a small and bright light with decent run time. Anything larger than a 1-AAA light is too large for a key chain, and thus of little interest to me. (you can't use a light if it's not with you!) Let's see what I can do with an UltraFire WF-602c flashlight and a Cree XLamp 7090 XR-E LED.
Here is the stock UltraFire WF-602c head:
I removed the Luxeon:
I ground the top of the light flat to make room for a Cree XR-E and sanded the aluminum smooth. The Cree is attached with Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy. I clipped the corners of the Cree so that the bottom contacts would not conduct to the aluminum of the flashlight.
I replaced the boost circuit with a 2-ohm 1/4-watt resistor:
I replaced the stock lens with an acrylic hemisphere. The hemisphere measures 0.482 inches in diameter. A 0.5-inch lens would have been too wide. The acrylic hemisphere sits right above the stock reflector, and is held in place by it. The hemisphere makes a good seal with the o-ring.
The light measures 14 x 73 mm. An AA battery, in comparison, measures 14 x 50 mm.
Here are the finished light, its battery, and an AA battery for comparison:
Comparison beam shots at two different exposures from 9.5 inches:
In case you've never seen an UltraFire AAA running on a lithium ion battery, it has a small, intense hot spot and a wide, bright flood.
I don't know if it's clear from the images, but the Cree mod's hot spot is a little brighter and much bigger. The side spill is narrower, dimmer, and less uniform, but still bright enough to be useful.
I measured the current by putting a 0.1-ohm resistor in place of the battery tube. (you don't want to measure current by putting an amp meter in series; the resistance is too high) Note that for the stock light my current measurement is for the battery, not the LED. So I don't know the exact current through the LED, but I will assume it is close to the 990 mA that I measured. With such high current, it is no wonder that people are reporting only 20 minutes of run time with the stock light!
Here are some current measurements for batteries at different levels of charge. (voltages were measured open-circuit across the battery)
344 mA @ 4.04 V (nearly a full charge from my DSD charger)
324 mA @ 3.90 V
292 mA @ 3.80 V
250 mA @ 3.71 V
196 mA @ 3.55 V
100 mA @ 2.75 V (light was visibly dimming at this point)
In my run-time test with an UltraFire 500-mAh 10440 cell, the modded light stayed bright for 1 hour 23 minutes, and dimmed steadily for the next 13 minutes. When I stopped the test, the light was very dim and the battery's open circuit voltage was 2.8 V. The good news here is that the user has ample indication that the battery needs to be recharged before there is any risk of damage to the lithium ion battery. I was shooting for run time closer to 2 hours, but I think the UltraFire battery is overrated. (Tronic's test showed only 305 mAh)
This shot shows the spot pattern in detail. I calculated the beam angle to be 15 degrees.
In practical use, the beam pattern is not distracting at all. Here is a shot from 11 feet. In reality, the hot spot is slightly less intense than you see here, and the side spill is brighter.
I couldn't be happier with the way this mod turned out. The bright, wide hot spot is great for a flashlight of any size, let alone one small enough to put on a key chain. I believe that this light manages to put so many lumens into the spot while maintaining decent run time because of two things: the Cree XR-E's high luminous efficacy (lumens per watt), and the combination of the LED's radiation pattern and the acrylic hemisphere's focusing power. It's not a super thrower, but what do you expect for something so small? I'll be surprised if there's another flashlight this small that puts so many lumens into the spot while maintaining decent run time.
Incidentally, the DSD charger is very easily adapted to charge 10440 cells by bending the contacts. There's also an AAA Nano charger that Dae sells.
UltraFire Problems
Three of the four UltraFire lights I purchased from FifthUnit had problems. One of the lights appeared to be a redesign that corrected these problems.
The o-rings on the battery tube and the LED mount tube were far too small. They were stretched thin, and probably didn't make a seal at all. One of o-rings broke. I'm still searching for the right size replacement o-ring.
There is a circuit board with foil contacts that touch the end of the battery tube (when it is screwed down) and the positive terminal of the battery. The foil ring that makes contact with the end of the battery tube is too narrow, and doesn't quite touch the battery tube. It was clear that someone had already tried to fix this by soldering some tiny pieces of wire to the foil trace, but they didn't do a very good job with the fix. I ended up fixing it myself by adding three little pieces of wire that extend from the inner edge of the ring to the outer edge of the circuit board. You want the wires to go to the edge of the circuit board, but not past it, because you don't want to make contact with the threads. (which would allow the light to turn on inadvertently) I also added a wire to the center contact so that the battery would touch. Otherwise the wires I added at the edge would touch the battery and prevent it from making contact. Please don't make fun of my soldering job.
Also, for all of my lights the lanyard holes were drilled a little bit close to the edge. I was afraid that a split ring might rip the side of the hole out, so I drilled a smaller hole further from the edge.
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becoz the pill is so narrow & little space and i had to cut the emitter legs and to get the emitter center in the reflector is another story and to desolder the stock Lux emitter is another one which i baked that yellow thing in the emitter i thot i gonna use that emiter as a dome light in my car 
! Anyway the output is double ( sorry no photo yet) and the best thing is the multifunction is working as before.So nevermind the LOD CE i've got the LOD SE SSC P4 yummy:naughty:
