Variable Speed 1HP on HF 8x12 running!

[wquiles]

As some of you remember I got a new HF 8x12 last year:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162307

I decided not to use it on its OEM state as I have been used to the variable speed motor in my smaller 7x12 lathe. So I bought some "parts" and started working on the conversion as shown here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=171871

Now I got the 220V 1HP Variable DC Motor & Controller installed and running. I will post additional pictures later this week, but here is a short teaser as I went from this:

to this:

I still have to label things to make them "pretier", but it is working, and best of all, safely (extra important when dealing with 30A 220V circuits!).

After this I can then re-assemble/fit together, while using some lapping compound where necessary, so that I can then actually start cutting - first project will be the mounting plate for the new 6" chuck!

Will

 

[precisionworks]

Nice job on the vari speed conversion

extra important when dealing with 30A 220V circuits!

That motor, at full speed, should draw no more than 5A. According to NEMA Article 430-32(c)(1), you need either:

A separate overload device rated at no more than 125% of full load current

OR

A thermal protector integral within the motor

The 30A breaker on the circuit provides protection only for the conductors. It will easily allow the motor to self-destruct, unless you install some form of overcurrent protection rated at no more than 6.25A.

 

[wquiles]

No, not the motor itself - the crontoller I used and the HP resistor determine how much power it can draw. I meant danger to myself when dealing with the high current/voltage circuit if I did something wrong/stupid

Will

 

[kenster]

oo: I have been wondering about your project. Very cool Will! :thumbsup:

BTW, San Antonio is just down the road a piece and my LatheMaster 8 x 14 is ready and waiting.

Ken :tinfoil:

 

[wquiles]

oo: I have been wondering about your project. Very cool Will! :thumbsup:

BTW, San Antonio is just down the road a piece and my LatheMaster 8 x 14 is ready and waiting.

Ken :tinfoil:

Yeah, it sure has taking a long time. Really more of a detour - workig on many other projects. Plus a bad case of procrastination since my smaller lathe does work reasonably well for most stuff.

The controller part is not difficult at all, but you really have to plan out how you are setting up the motor (110 or 220), what switches you want to have, and how you are going to wire everything up, whether you will reuse housing pieces or do a new control housing for everything, etc.. Lots of choices meant I had to figure out what "I" wanted/needed.

In the end I have:
- one switch to enable the 220V into the controller. This also (when ON) turns the read light to indicate "DANGER - you now have 220 V active!"

- one switch to turn on/off the motor (independent of the speed - so you could start/stop at a constant/repeatable speed since the controller handles automatically speed-up and speed-down).

- one switch to reverse the direction of the motor - of course you do have to stop the motor first! This was another reason for the separate motor ON/OFF switch

- one 5K pot for the variable speed (came with the controller kit)

- 3 pulley positions to pick up 3 speed ranges (using the middle one at the moment). The controller does have an RPM measurement feature - I need to investigate more lather about possibly using this with some external display.

- separate fuse "box" for the two hot 220V wires as recommended by the control's manufacturer. I am using the controller's built-in armature fuse as well.

- earth/chassis ground "everywhere" - everything is grounded!

If you want you can start buying the pieces and I will help you step by step on how to do yours the same way I did mine

Will

 

[kenster]

Will,

I hear you when it comes to procrastination! :sick2: My LatheMaster has been sitting on mygarage flor since it arrived which was about Valentines Day. :candle: ........... The one in 2007 Many $,$$$ in extras including DRO as well as Micro-Mark Milling Machine with all kinds of goodies for more $,$$$ spent so I win! :nana: Uhhh...... :huh2: :shakehead:mecry: I`ll get to all of it someday and I sure would like to chit chat with you when I do so I thank you for the kind offer and I ACCEPT! :thumbsup:

BTW, I would love to hear more details on the 6" Chuck. 6 Jaw maybe??? :naughty: OUCH! Maybe I shouldn`t go there until I get my equipment up and running? :duh2:

Thanks for all the info and great pictures and have a WONDERFUL Sunday evening!

Ken

 

[wquiles]

BTW, I would love to hear more details on the 6" Chuck. 6 Jaw maybe??? :naughty:

Yes, I just bought a Bison set-tru 6" 6-jaw chuck from ENCO. I had purchased a precision 6" 3-jaw, but I am returning it and/or selling it to keep the 6-jaw :thumbsup:

Once you see the additional pictures you will see in detail how I got everything done, and we can use this as a starting point to get your lathe to run with variable speed as well

Will

 

[gadget_lover]

Very nicely done Will. I can't wait to see the work you do with it.


Daniel

 

[Mirage_Man]

Nice! I'd love to have variable speed control on my lathe. Changing the belt location to adjust the speed between ops can be a real PITA on my lathe.

BTW Will, I don't see any kind of tumblers for threading or feed rate. Do you have to change gears for different thread pitches and feeds?

 

[modamag]

Will, so the toggle switch changes the speed? I thought the 7x14 uses a pot?

Congrats on the B6-jaws. Just mount it and forget it, because every time you remove those the three bolts to the backplate, it's gonna be a PITA to true it again.

Brian, 8x12 lathe change thread pitch/feed with the changes of the 4 (usually) gears.

 

[wquiles]

Do you have to change gears for different thread pitches and feeds?

Yes, just like in the smaller 7x12 lathe.

Will, so the toggle switch changes the speed? I thought the 7x14 uses a pot?

Congrats on the B6-jaws. Just mount it and forget it, because every time you remove those the three bolts to the backplate, it's gonna be a PITA to true it again.

Thanks for the tip on the B6-jaws

To answer your question, lets use this pic as a reference:

- top left is the AC enable switch for both "hot" wires. Moving it "back" disconnects AC.

- top right is the Motor ON/OFF enable button. It works independent of the speed set in the pot - it just shuts down the motor. Moving it "back" turns the motor off. Note this is the same direction as the AC switch. I felt moving in the same direction as AC switch meant less chance of getting them confused - both have to be back for everything to be OFF, and both have to be forward for everything to work.

- lower left is the switch to control motor's direction - motor has to be stopped before operating. "Up" is in reverse and "down" is forward - which makes sense in my head :nana:

- lower right is the speed pot (clockwise to increase speed). It does not work "exactly" like in the 7x12 since on its fully counter-clockwise the pot in the 7x12 also turns the motor off (the switch is part of the pot). In my implementation, the pot and the switch are separate, which is how I wanted it.

I am sorry if I am not explaining this well. Does this help?

Will

 

[modamag]

ah lower right is a pot. I thought it was a push button switch (funny me).
BTW: I got one of these spindle tachometer for my old 10x22 which works really well.

If you're anal like me you can use a Laser Tachometerto verify and calibrate the actual speed. I have one if you just want to use it couple time.

 

[wquiles]

Modamag - You are always looking out for me; that is, finding more ways for me to spend money



Will

 

[mdocod]

Looking at this modification- I wonder, has anyone considered picking up the motor/speed-control and control pad for an SX3 for this mod?

I think it would do just about everything you need it to do. It can go from forward to reverse without having to manually shut down, it electronic brakes to a stop automatically before reversing. It returns to the previously used speed when stopped and started. It's supposedly 1HP, and runs on convenient 120V.

I'm not sure how much it would cost to obtain the "guts" required, so I have no idea if it would be cost effective, but for those following this, the concept might be worth an exploration.

-Eric

 

[wquiles]

Absolutely. This mod would be just as effective and versatile in a lathe or in a milling machine. The KB controller that I used was fully configurable via simple variable pots on the motherboard, and it was easy to wire up. I had mine setup for a slower time when turning ON (about 6-8 seconds if memory serves me right), and a much quicker turn OFF time of about 2 seconds - it worked awesome :twothumbs

Like the 7x small lathes, the X2 mini-mill that I am selling also has from the factory a similar (but simpler) variable speed control, and it is awesome to be able to dial the right speed with the speed knob/pot. So yes, this would definitely a good project to consider for a larger mill

I am definitely getting a VFD setup for my PM12x36 lathe - I can't wait until I have speed control without moving levers/gears :devil:

Will

 

[mdocod]

I wasn't very clear, I meant to take the motor and speed control from an SX3 (buy those parts from a supplier like grizzly), and use them on a small lathe in the same fashion that you have done.

 

[wquiles]

I wasn't very clear, I meant to take the motor and speed control from an SX3 (buy those parts from a supplier like grizzly), and use them on a small lathe in the same fashion that you have done.

Ahh - that would make sense "if" you could buy those parts "really" cheap. The controller for my lathe was about $50 and the brand new motor was about $50 plus S/H (both new from Ebay). I doubt you would be able to buy from Grizzly or anyone else, everything you need for less than $150 shipped

Will

 

[mdocod]

I see

Yea I have no clue what that stuff would cost. Probably a few hundred.

 

[wquiles]

I see

Yea I have no clue what that stuff would cost. Probably a few hundred.

Eric - It is "still" a good idea - it is just a mater of sourcing the parts at a reasonable price

Will

 

[deebee]

Will sold me a spare new controller he had for the $50 he paid for it then I picked up a new Baldor 3/4 hp motor on epay for $45--the problem is the shipping cost:ironic:
I saw lots of new Baldor and Leeson motors on ebay for under $100--110v and 220v.