The hot spring and twisty UI might have been the reason for the ingress. Thanks for highlighting your experience.
Very difficult NOT to love AAA's these days.
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The latest addition to the AAA collection: Ti Preon 1 219 with a Dark Sucks titanium clip and clicky tail.
How do you like the clicky tail cap on the P1? That's not something I thought to do. I guess it's one less piece to buy from IS if you want to convert the P2 to the P1.
PCC
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't typically like reverse-clickies, but, seeing as I don't have a choice on the matter, it'll do. The problem with this light is that it's titanium threads against titanium threads. It's like fingernails on a chalkboard screwing this thing down if I were to use it as a twisty (okay, not quite that bad, but, still...). The clicky is the way to go as far as I'm concerned. I guess I could have gone with the black aluminum version, but, I wanted a titanium light.
I think twistys are fine under water. As long as you maintain the o-ring now and then, and twist slowly. My dive lights are twistys. I have taken both the lumintop worm and maratac cu freediving with no problems (exept the worm was slippery and slipped out of my hand once).
Most of the aaa lights i have played with handles water fine. Both clickys and twistys. My lf2xt have survived the washing machine.. 3 times...
Have dunked the preon 1, preon2, p0, tains ti p0 with no problems.
O-rings can handle a lot of pressure. Im impressed over the o-ring in my old pre charged pneumatic air pistols. I can still pump them one day, and shoot the next. One well lubed old o-ring holding all that pressure.
Hope the torpedo arrives soon
Most of the aaa lights i have played with handles water fine. Both clickys and twistys. My lf2xt have survived the washing machine.. 3 times...
Have dunked the preon 1, preon2, p0, tains ti p0 with no problems. O-rings can handle a lot of pressure. Im impressed over the o-ring in my old pre charged pneumatic air pistols. I can still pump them one day, and shoot the next. One well lubed old o-ring holding all that pressure.
Hope the torpedo arrives soon
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kaichu dento
Flashaholic
I know twisties are fine underwater!I think twistys are fine under water. As long as you maintain the o-ring now and then, and twist slowly. My dive lights are twistys. I have taken both the lumintop worm and maratac cu freediving with no problems (exept the worm was slippery and slipped out of my hand once).
Most of the aaa lights i have played with handles water fine. Both clickys and twistys. My lf2xt have survived the washing machine.. 3 times...
O-rings can handle a lot of pressure. Im impressed over the o-ring in my old pre charged pneumatic air pistols. I can still pump them one day, and shoot the next. One well lubed old o-ring holding all that pressure.
Hope the torpedo arrives soon
Good tips about twisting slowly, and especially keeping up on the o-rings.
I'd stuck with the thinking about not turning twisties on and off under water when David said not to do it with the Mini's a couple years ago, and I think it's still probably the safest approach, although your points make perfect sense.
My understanding is the JIS IPX water ratings system is basically on the "honor system". If one makes a new flashlight one can test it themselves and there is no legal requirement to send it to an independent JIS(C) testing facility to be "certified". Susceptibility to water while twisting would also therefore be a judgment call on the specific manufacturer.
I've tried to find links to JIS to verify this but no luck so far. Anyone have any links to the horse's mouth?
All can find, and I doesn't even list IPX:
http://www.jisc.go.jp/eng/
I've tried to find links to JIS to verify this but no luck so far. Anyone have any links to the horse's mouth?
All can find, and I doesn't even list IPX:
http://www.jisc.go.jp/eng/
It's called a ip code. Lots of pepole calls it "IPX". The first number in the ip code is for particals like dust etc. When a flashlight says it's IPX8. The x just means that the product is not tested against particles, fingers etc. The second number (usually 8 on flashlight) is for waterproofness.
You can find the code list here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code
The most impotrant thing is to, service the light now and then. A bone dry or damaged o-ring wont keep the water out no matter what the box says
You can find the code list here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code
The most impotrant thing is to, service the light now and then. A bone dry or damaged o-ring wont keep the water out no matter what the box says
The latest Nichia 219 AAA addition. Jason's Beta-QR in electroless nickel.
Hi bronco,
I received both my Beta QR today. Yes they are indeed long but I love this light! Not sure if it would get keychain duty yet since I have the Mako on my keychain but I am going to try and find an opportunity to EDC it. Nice light at a very reasonable price!
Bronco
Enlightened
Yeah, I find the build quality on mine to be very good. A lot of little details that were all extremely well executed. I wish those of us who couldn't justify either the weight or the cost of the all copper model had been given the chance to select the driver with moonlight mode, but hey, we knew the score going in.
As for EDC'ing the light, I've found it very convenient and comfortable to carry it inside the waistband with the titanium carabiner clipped to the very top of the waistband. The smooth wire design of the gate is easy on clothing but the excellent spring tension results in very positive retention. You can easily forget it's there and the light is well protected from dings and scratches at the same time.
I dont know.
I think some few sends it in, and some does the testing theirself, or have no test at all. I think most just slap a ipx8 on the specs list with no tests at all. I have drowned some ipx8 lights. Thats why i really dont care that mutch about the ip ratings on flashlights. There is only one way to really make sure if your light is waterproof, and that is to test it yourself. Every little flashlight is uniqe.
The ip rating just says that this consept should be able to keep water out. They dont test every single light sold. Take the zebralight as a good example. It says ipx8, but lots and lots of them wont handle water because it's a hit or miss thing when they glue the lense. If they make it right, it's waterproof. If they miss with the glue, it's not. 2 of my 3 zebralights dident like water at all, but the design is rated ipx8 and should be able to hold water out (in theori).
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yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
It is very difficult not to love AAAs these days and my set has grown.
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
Edit: Double post.
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OCD
Enlightened
Nice collection, yoyoman. What's your favorite Clicky?
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
You mean set... In general, the AAA size is not optimal for clickies and most of them are reverse clickies. I like the new DQG and Lumentop Tool. I don't have the new version of the Pelican 1910 (more output and 2 levels). I like the Peak Turbo from Oveready without QTC and the momentary switch. My favorite and EDC is the Tain Ottavino AAA twisty - tighten to off, loosen to low and keep turning to High. Very easy to use with one hand and easy on the eyes.
ven
Flashaholic
Very very nice mr yoyo i need more AAA lights for sure:twothumbs
i need more AAA lights for sure:twothumbs
yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
I like AAA lights because of their small size. Some of them, like the Atom AO and DQG are really tiny. But all lights are a compromise and AAA lights have at least 2 big compromises. Because of the small size, most of them are twisties (which I don't mind). The other compromise has to be runtime. This hasn't bothered me - the ones that run on 10440 li-ions are very bright and I can top off the charge when necessary. The ones that run on Eneloops or Energizer lithium primaries have enough runtime for their normal use. But now that you, ven, have turned me onto a certain AA light that has long runtime on L and M, I'm beginning to wonder. I would like to do a runtime test, but I'm not patient enough. I guess I could look at selfbuilt's runtime tests, but I'm lazy, too. Now that the family portrait is over, the lights have been dispersed around the house so they get used.
ven
Flashaholic
I would guess on similar output levels that the average AA is for example 2000mah(if a loop,if a Duracell alki then around 1500mah) and AAA around 900 . So its easy to see double run time,maybe a little more with less strain on the larger AA cell over the smaller AAA . But depending on light materials if tested on a higher setting would also effect along with the lights driver efficiency too.
Few factors i guess,but would say conservatively around double runtime should be expected if the lights are set on similar lumen levels.
Certainly for ease of carrying in comfort, the AAA form factor wins along with key chain use imo.............just not run times.
Regards ven:thumbsup:
Few factors i guess,but would say conservatively around double runtime should be expected if the lights are set on similar lumen levels.
Certainly for ease of carrying in comfort, the AAA form factor wins along with key chain use imo.............just not run times.
Regards ven:thumbsup:
NutSAK
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'd say that is quite conservative. My testing shows 2100mAh and 800mAh as typical for AA Eneloop vs. AAA, and the runtime benefit of typical 14500 over 10440 is even greater. I've found it difficult to find good quality 10440 Li-Ions.
I find it hard to justify AAA as my primary carry, though I do carry AAA as a backup at times. When I consider small form-factor AA lights such as a Quark Mini, it is even more difficult.
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yoyoman
Flashlight Enthusiast
The difference in runtime is a compromise. But it is one that I can live with because of the small size and output that modern AAA lights offer. My pocket EDC is an AAA light because it is small, bright enough on an Envelop and I can change/recharge the cell when needed. My copper Maratac AAA, modded by Vinh and running on a 10440 li-ion, is a flashaholic dream. Very bright, nice tint and the whole light warms up. The Olight i3S and Titanium Innovation alum AAA are also very bright on 10440 li-ions. I rarely need a light with a long runtime and I have lights to satisfy that purpose when needed. Those lights also make compromises (e.g. Size, lack of blinding output, etc.). All lights are a compromise and I'm glad because I can keep finding lights that serve a purpose and keep me in tune.
