Want to upgrade my old Executive E1

1911pro

Newly Enlightened
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Aug 10, 2010
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I have a mint E1-HA from around 2000 that I am wanting to upgrade from the 15 lumen setup to a Lumen Factory HO-E1R or a HO-E1A. Is the extra 10 lumens from the HO-E1R worth having to go with a rechargable battery. I am lazy and do not want to mess with recharging unless it is really a noticable difference. I am trying to do this cheap because I am going to buy a LX1 or a 4sevens tactical later on. Thanks for any help you can give. I am kind of flashlight stupid at this stage in the game.
 
I can't speak from experience with those specific bulbs, but the difference between the HO-E1A and HO-E1R is likely pretty small.

Also realize that the Lumens Factory ratings are bulb lumens, while the Surefire ratings are out the front lumens, the actual amount of light that comes out of the flashlight after the light reflects through the lens. Multiply bulb lumens by 0.65 to approximate OTF lumens. The difference between the HO-E1A and HO-E1R is less than 7 OTF lumens.

If you want a noticeable difference, look at the EO-E1R. :)
 
Check this out. :naughty:

Looks good,but I am confused. Single cell stock E1what do I need? How many lumens is it? What batteries do I need to run? Is it a simple drop in and what is the run time? Thanks
 
You may want to enquire from the maker himself, kuku427, for the lumens and runtime. It's a customised tower that's easy to install and you can use either CR123 or rechargeable li-ion. More details can be found at the first post of the MP link.
 
Looks good,but I am confused. Single cell stock E1what do I need? How many lumens is it? What batteries do I need to run? Is it a simple drop in and what is the run time? Thanks

You can use either a rechargeable or primary 123. The 500 ma driver should run almost 3 hrs, while the 1 amp will run almost 1.5 hours.

An R5 will get about 139 lumens from 350 ma, while an R4 will get about 130 lumens from 350 ma.
 
Better make sure that your E1's head is compatible with that Kuku tower. See the discussion on pp. 2-4 of the original sales thread, starting with post #40.

I have a LF HO-E1A. The output is unimpressive. I realize that you are asking on the incan forum, but I'd probably go with an OpticsHQ/TLS TX2 E2 conversion head and power it with 1xLi-ion.
 
I have a mint E1-HA from around 2000 that I am wanting to upgrade from the 15 lumen setup to a Lumen Factory HO-E1R or a HO-E1A. Is the extra 10 lumens from the HO-E1R worth having to go with a rechargable battery. I am lazy and do not want to mess with recharging unless it is really a noticable difference. I am trying to do this cheap because I am going to buy a LX1 or a 4sevens tactical later on. Thanks for any help you can give. I am kind of flashlight stupid at this stage in the game.

1911pro, can you post a picture of your light? Inquiring minds want to fact-check the compatibility of your light with the LED module.

That said, the extreme-output rechargeable modules from Lumens Factory are pretty awesome, if you like incandescent lights.
 
1911pro, can you post a picture of your light? Inquiring minds want to fact-check the compatibility of your light with the LED module.

That said, the extreme-output rechargeable modules from Lumens Factory are pretty awesome, if you like incandescent lights.

Sorry about the Iphone picture. Hope this helps. It has A56309 on the bezel.

photo.jpg
 
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Exactly what I needed to see, 1911pro, serial number not required. You will either need a new bezel, making your light both sterile and clipless (did they print anything on the tailcap? Not entirely sterile, then) to mount that LED we were talking about earlier.

On the other hand, the extra heat-sink mass pairs well with a Lumens Factory incandescent lamp in short burns (long runs will warp the lexan window up front, but that really doesn't slow you down much, and once you do melt it, Surefire will send you a new, sterile E1 head with heat warnings on it -- so write down your serial number and email it to yourself or something. All my Surefire serials go in GoogleDocs in case I misplace a serialized head or the house burns down or something stupid.)

Also, nice classic E1. Wish I could still track one like that down, they're classy.
 
Thanks. Lumens Factory it is. Do you know if the 50 lumens lamp will melt the lense? Also when did they quit putting seriel #s on the light? honestly I thought it was a model #. Tailcap is marked. Thanks for all the help.
 
It's an E1 Executive, and they've moved on to the E1e Executive Elite. The E1 had a serial on the head, the E1e has the serial on the body tube.

Also, the Elite versions moved the clip from the head to the body tube, and made it user-replaceable instead of riveted.

Oh, 50 lumens should be fine - most people who have trouble are running P61 and especially P91 lamps with lexan windows. (On the other hand, the window is closer to the bulb... letting the whole battery go in one big long glorious burn is probably a bad idea, but replacement kits go on eBay fairly frequently.)
 
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It's an E1 Executive, and they've moved on to the E1e Executive Elite. The E1 had a serial on the head, the E1e has the serial on the body tube.

Also, the Elite versions moved the clip from the head to the body tube, and made it user-replaceable instead of riveted.

Thanks. Great info.
 
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