Dawg
Enlightened
Will there ever be more?
Last edited:
What about JIL-CR2?
- Thread starter Dawg
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Somy Nex
Enlightened
Re: What about JIL?
i certainly hope so. they're small, bright, versatile (especially with Goldserve's FLuPIC), and very tough. =)
i certainly hope so. they're small, bright, versatile (especially with Goldserve's FLuPIC), and very tough. =)
Planterz
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: What about JIL?
I think the Jil is between version revisions. I think they should be available again in the not-too-distant future. At least, I hope so.
I think the Jil is between version revisions. I think they should be available again in the not-too-distant future. At least, I hope so.
vortechs
Enlightened
Re: What about JIL?
I hope you don't mind if I use this thread to ask for feedback on the JIL information document I've been working on. I've been meaning to post this for weeks but there always seems to be one more revision I want to do to it. I would eventually like to make this the first post in a new thread specifically dedicated to the JIL series (perhaps in the Reviews forum). Let me know what you think [note that this post has been edited several times to include additional information].
----
Information about the JIL CR2 series:
It can be rather confusing for a newcomer to understand the JIL CR2 series of flashlights. It is hard to find information about the JIL CR2 outside of CPF and it is difficult to search on short strings like "JIL" in CPF. I will try to summarize some information about the JIL series for the benefit of all.
JIL CR2 flashlights are made in South Korea and exported in small quantities. Production so far has been limited. The name "JIL" is an acronym that stands for "Jesus In Light" (which explains why it is also sometimes written as JiL with a small "i").
Note that this post still uses the original names for the JIL CR2 series (DD, 1.3W, Intelli). In July of 2006 the JIL series was updated (updates include a matte gray HA3 finish and McR-18 reflector). The new name of the series is JCR2 and the new names for the models are as follows: JIL CR2 DD --> JCR2 LR (LongRun), JIL CR2 1.3w --> JCR2 HI (High Intensity), JIL CR2 Intelli --> JCR2 IT (Intelli), JIL CR2 UV --> JCR2 UV.
JIL CR2 series flashlight heads:
JIL-DD: The JIL-DD direct drives the LED. The input voltage that can be used depends on the bin of the LED that is installed in the JIL-DD head. Using a voltage less than the Vf for the LED is referred to as 'underdriving' and results in dimmer light from the LED. Using a voltage higher than the Vf for the LED is referred to as 'overdriving' and will increase brightness but will reduce energy efficiency and shorten the LED lifespan. Voltages much higher than the Vf for the LED will shorten its lifespan to zero (poof) unless a resistor is used. The stock JIL-DD (with either the TW0J or TW0H emitter) is significantly underdriven by a 3V primary battery (CR2) which is why the JIL-DD @ 3V is not as bright as the JIL-1.3W (which boosts the battery voltage). The stock JIL-DD with either a TW0J or TW0H LED would be overdriven by a 3.6V LiIon rechargeable cell (RCR2). The TW0J emitter (Vf = 3.27-3.51) would be mildly overdriven by a 3.6V LiIon, while the TW0H emitter (Vf = 3.03-3.27) would be significantly overdriven, especially since a "3.6V" LiIon cell produces up to 4.2V when it is fresh off the charger. Technically an xxxK bin emitter (Vf = 3.51-3.75) would be much better suited for direct drive with a 3.6V LiIon rechargeable cell.
JIL-1.3W: Contains a LEDdynamics LuxDrive MicroPuck controller (model 2009-HI, or maybe HO???) to boost the voltage of a 3V Lithium primary cell, in order to achieve increased brightness with 3V primary batteries at the expense of reduced runtime. The MicroPuck is designed for a battery voltage of 1V to 3V with 3V giving the rated current (400mA) to the LED and lower input voltages providing less current to the LED. The optimal input is 3V from either a Lithium primary CR2 cell or two 1.5V cells in an optional battery extension (such as two AA Alkaline cells in the JIL-Bus extension). Using 3.6V LiIon rechargeable cells with the 1.3W head is not recommended because the MicroPuck controller is only rated for up to 3V input (in its typical boost configuration in the JIL-1.3W). (At least one person has tried a Li-Ion cell in the 1.3W UV and it does not immediately fail, but the long term effects are uncertain). Two 1.2V NiMH cells (2.4V) will work with the JIL-1.3W head but the light output will be a bit lower (probably about 280mA to the LED = 70% as bright as a 3V input). The MicroPuck can even boost a single 1.2V or 1.5V cell enough to power the LED, but it will be much less bright (probably about 100mA to the LED from a 1.2V input and about 150mA to the LED from a 1.5V input = 25% to 40% as bright as a 3V input ). The data sheet for the MicroPuck boost converter is available here: http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/datasheets/2009A-MicroPuck.pdf . Note that the 1.3W head is longer than the DD head; some people have commented that this makes the head easier to turn with one hand when using the CR2 body, especially if some o-rings are fitted into the 3 grooves in the head. The 1.3W model can be identified by the longer head and because it has 3 grooves and two rows of 'texture' bars (knurling). The DD model has a shorter head with only 2 grooves and one row of 'texture' bars. The 'texture' bars on the newer (Up) models are at a 45 degree diagonal, while the 'texture' bars on the original pre-Up version seem to be longitudinal.
JIL-1.3W modded with FLuPIC: The first version of the JIL CR2 that was modified to use the FLuPIC controller was the 1.3W version, because it had more room in the head for the FLuPIC electronics. However, the MicroPuck controller was removed from the head to make room for the FLuPIC so this mod cannot boost brightness with primary batteries like the normal JIL-1.3W head. Eventually the size of the FLuPIC mod was reduced to fit inside the smaller JIL-DD head and the FLuPIC mod for the JIL-1.3W was discontinued.
JIL-DD modded with FLuPIC, or "Intelli": A variant of the JIL-DD that includes a FLuPIC module (developed by CPF member goldserve) that limits the maximum current to the LED and offers variable brightness levels and modes such as strobe and SOS. The FLuPIC uses pulse width modulation to control the brightness of the light. The FLuPIC mod for the JIL-DD can be purchased from its creator, CPF member goldserve. The FLuPIC for the JIL-DD can also be included by the manufacturer/distributor, in the "Intelli" version; this version is marked "INTELLI"on the side of the bezel and was first introduced as a special to CPF members for the holiday season at the end of 2005. Input voltage to the FLuPIC can be 2.4 to 4.5V (a fresh "3.6V" LiIon produces 4.2V for a short time). I am not certain of the maximum voltage that the FLuPIC can tolerate beyond 4.5V, but goldserve has said that 4.5V from three 1.5V cells in series would be ok and has specifically said to NOT use two LiIon cells in series (8.4V peak). Here is some clarification from goldserve: "I'd say 4.5, 4.8V is okay to power a K or J bin led. The board will handle up to 5.5V if you power something within the range of 4.5-5V led. Maybe the K2s could use this combination. I will try the K2 leds with a 6V input in the future. Stress test it to make sure the uC will last at 6V." When using a Li-Ion RCR2 cell, the FLuPIC will deliver about 600mA to the LED at the maximum brightness setting (20 of 20) and perhaps 800-1000mA in the maximum (or 'burst') setting (I have seen different numbers in posts and haven't measured it myself yet).
LED:
The JIL CR2 uses a Luxeon III LED (sometimes referred to as a "3 watt" LED). Most early versions used a TW0J LED, although apparently some TxxK bin (K-bin Vf) JIL-CR2 DD models were made in the early time of production. At that time you could get a TxxK LED by special request, if you intended to use RCR2 Li-Ion rechargable cells (very bright, very hot and about 20mins of runtime), however this has been mostly superseded by the Intelli or DD with FLuPIC. In August of 2005 versions with a TW0H LED were introduced (these first shipped on 09-26-2005). There is also a version of the 1.3W model with an ultraviolet (UV) LED (Cree 7090 UV LED, 395nm). For someone who is skilled at soldering, it is fairly easy to change the LED in the JIL so there may be variations with other types of LED's (especially for JIL-DD's that have been modded with a FLuPIC). In February 2007, CPF member goldserve introduced a mod to install a Seoul P4 LED in the newer JCR2 series lights (see here for details).
Reflector:
I believe there are at least four reflectors available for the JIL CR2 head: the original reflector, the (Up) reflector, the slightly longer (Up) reflector for the "Joker" TW0H LED, and a McR-18 reflector for a "Joker" LED. The original reflector was changed to the (Up) reflector in the (Up) upgrade package. The (Up) reflector is slightly different between the original TW0J lights and the newer TW0H lights due to a difference in the height of the LED. I believe the change occurred in late 2005. The TW0H lights had a "Joker" style LED (which have a lower die height than a non-Joker LED). The JCR2 model (introduced in July of 2006) uses a McR-18 reflector (optimized for whichever type of LED that particular light has ("Joker" or non-"Joker") [I believe].
Lens:
Early versions of the JIL CR2 had a plastic lens. An ultra clear mineral glass lens (ultra-clear lens or UCL) was made available as an upgrade. When the UCL was included at the factory, the designation "(Up)" for Upgraded was added to the name engraved on the side of the body. This is now the standard configuration, so the (Up) simply identifies the light as one of the newer versions where the UCL is standard (along with the (Up) reflector).
JIL CR2 series flashlight bodies and body extensions:
JIL-CR2 (1 x CR2 size): This is the normal 'stock' body for the JIL-CR2 series. The normal JIL CR2 body does not have a tailcap (the body must be unscrewed from the head to replace the CR2 battery). There is no way to mount a tailcap switch on the JIL CR2 body, however both the JIL-Cab and JIL-Bus body extensions for the JIL have tailcaps that can be replaced with a 'clickie' switch like the Kroll switch. The CR2 body is intended for one 3V CR2 primary cell with the JIL-DD or JIL-1.3W heads, or for one 3.6V LiIon RCR2 rechargeable cell with the JIL-DD Intelli head (or other FLuPIC modded head). The Intelli head can also be used with a 3V CR2 primary, but the brightness will be similar to the JIL-DD. A 3.6V LiIon RCR2 could also be used in combination with a JIL-DD head that does not have a FLuPIC but contains an LED that is capable of tolerating the 3.6+ volts of a LiIon cell such as an xxxK bin Luxeon III. Running an xxxJ bin on direct drive from a 3.6V LiIon is not recommended, but several people on CPF have reported doing it and there have not been any reports of LED failures yet. Running an xxxH bin on direct drive from a 3.6V LiIon is not recommended and I am not aware of any reports of this being tried. Note that there have been reports of some RCR2's (15270 or 15266 cells) being too wide to easily fit in the JIL CR2 body. Removing the battery label usually solves this. There have also been reports of some RCR2's being a bit too short to make contact. A small spacer magnet or a piece of folded aluminum foil will solve this. If you're worried about the 15270 RCR2 fitting the JIL CR2 body, AW also sells LiIon batteries in size 14270 (310 mAh, unprotected) which is a slightly smaller diameter than the CR2 (15270) and easily fits the JIL CR2 tube (in fact, AW says they're loose enough to rattle).
JIL-Cab (1 x AA size): The JIL-Cab is primarily intended to allow a single AA-sized (14500) rechargeable 3.6V LiIon cell to be used with the JIL CR2 DD-Intelli head (or any other JIL with a FLuPIC controller that can limit the current to the LED) to achieve increased runtime over the smaller CR2-sized cell. The JIL-Cab extension could also be used with a JIL CR2 DD head that does not have a FLuPIC but contains an LED that is capable of tolerating the 3.6+ volts of a 14500 LiIon cell. Another option is that two 3V AA-sized lithium primary cells can be obtained by splitting up a CRV3 battery; one of these 3V AA-sized lithium primary cells can be used to run either the DD or the 1.3W version with the JIL-Cab body. There is also a 3.6V AA-sized primary cell available (SAFT, TADIRAN, etc.), it cannot deliver the current necessary to run the DD or DD-Intelli at full brightness but the boost circuit in the 1.3W seems to be able to get full brightness from some of them. The JIL-Cab can be used with the 1.3W head and 1 x AA alkaline or NiMH battery but it will be much less bright with only 1.2-1.5V of input compared to 3V input, however it should still be brighter than the JIL-DD with 3V input. The JIL-Cab cannot be used with the DD or DD-Intelli heads with only 1 x AA alkaline or NiMH battery because the 1.5V of a single alkaline cell or 1.2V of a single NiMH cell is not sufficient to power the LED. The JIL-Cab has a tailcap that can be replaced with a 'clickie' switch like the Kroll switch. The back end of the JIL-Cab and JIL-Bus are designed to be compatible with a SureFire Z60 lanyard.
JIL-Bus (2 x AA size): The JIL-Bus is primarily intended to allow 2 alkaline AA or 2 NiMH AA cells to be used with the JIL-1.3W head to provide a nearly constant light output for a much longer time than the approximately 90 minutes from a 700 mAh CR2 primary. The JIL-Bus can also be used with the JIL-DD head and 2 alkaline AA cells to provide an extremely long runtime (several days of continuous operation), although the light output will decrease as the voltage of the alkaline batteries drops as they discharge (using two 1.5V Lithium AA cells instead of alkaline would provide a more constant light level because the Lithium AA cells have less variation in voltage as they discharge). While the JIL-Bus could be used with the JIL-DD head (or JIL-DD Intelli head) and 2 NiMH cells, the 2.4V from the cells would significantly underdrive the LED and the light would be fairly dim (but would have outstanding runtime, I intend to eventually try this and see how many days or weeks it runs). The JIL-Bus has a tailcap that can be replaced with a 'clickie' switch like the Kroll switch. The back end of the JIL-Cab and JIL-Bus are designed to be compatible with a SureFire Z60 lanyard.
Finish:
The JIL-CR2 series is coated with a very durable Type III Hard Anodized (or HA3) finish that is a semi-glossy gray color. There is no brown or green tint, it is completely gray. The darkness of the gray can vary somewhat from one batch of annodizing to another, which is typical of natural HA3 annodizing, so JIL's that were annodized in different batches may appear to be slightly different shades of gray. There were a few JIL-CR2 DD models made with a shiny chrome finish. The chrome finish has been reported to be even more durable than the HA3. The new JCR2 series is coted with a HA3 finish that is a matte silvery-gray color (a chrome version of the JCR2-LR will be available).
Reported measurements for JIL head/body combinations: (various sources)
JIL-DD head with CR2 body: 51.5mm long, 18mm body diameter, 20mm head diameter, 28 grams with battery (2.027in long, 0.71in body diameter, 0.787in head diameter, 1oz with battery).
JIL-DD Intelli head with CR2 body: same dimensions as the JIL-DD (maybe a tiny bit longer), 32 grams with battery (1.13oz).
JIL-1.3W head with CR2 body: 60mm long, 18mm body diameter, 20mm head diameter, 38 grams with battery (2.363in long,0.71in body diameter, 0.787in head diameter, 1.34oz with battery).
Brightness:
See Cones' review (link below). From Cones' reviews of the JiL's, the JIL-DD Intelli with a RCR2 cell is about 800-900 lux on full power (for 15 minutes) while the JIL-1.3W with a CR2 primary cell is about 400-450 lux (for 90 minutes) and the JIL-DD with a CR2 primary cell is about 80 lux (for 12+ hours). The new JCR2 versions should provide somewhat higher lux readings due to the more focused hotspot provided by the McR-18 reflector, however the total light output (lumens) should be the same as the previous versions (assuming the same bin LED and battery type are used).
Other possible battery sizes and combinations:
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the JIL-Bus body could use one 14670 LiIon cell along with a fairly long spacer (33mm). This would provide about 30% more capacity than a 14500 (AA size) cell.
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the JIL-Bus body can use three 2/3AA-sized NiMH cells (3 x 1.2V = 3.6V). This requires a small spacer because three 2/3AA size cells are actually shorter than two AA size cells. Three high current NiMH cells (3.6V) drive the JIL-DD or Intelli head at nearly the brightness of a LiIon cell (3.6 to 4.2V) but the head does not heat up as quickly because the LED is not being overdriven as much. Note that since the three 2/3AA NiMH cells are in series, their capacity does not add (although their voltages do), so this combination only provides the same mAh capacity as one cell (about 650-750 mAh).
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the JIL-Bus body could use three N-sized cells (with appropriate spacers and perhaps an outer tube or tape to keep them from rattling). NiMH N cells should be similar to the 2/3AA cells described above but with somewhat less capacity. Alkaline N cells should only be used with the Intelli head, which can limit the current to the LED; this configuration preforms similarly to thee NiMH 2/3AA cells. There doesnt seem to be much difference in brightness between level 20 and burst (Maximum Brightness) and it doesn't heat up as quickly as it does on the burst setting with a single fully charged LiIon RCR2 cell.
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the CR2 body can use four 1.5V alkaline coin cells (LR44, 357, AG-13) in series (reported by CPF member vcal). The voltage sag of the coin cells under load means that the LED does not actually see 4 x 1.5V = 6V. A spacer (such as a nut) is needed to make the stack of coin cells long enough and it is necessary to wrap something around the cells (such as a strip of paper from a business card) so that the smaller diameter cells will not rattle in the body. (When I tried this with an Intelli, I had difficulty getting a good contact and it tended to switch modes somewhat erratically.) Note that 6V is the maximum for the electronics such as the uC and LDO.
CPF member vcal reported that a 476A 6V alkaline cell (also known as a 4LR44) with a 1/16" spacer works amazingly well in the JIL-DD with CR2 body. The voltage sag due to the high current draw apparently protects the LED, although note that this report must have been using the TW0J LED because it was before the TW0H version was released.
DO NOT attempt to use two 3.6V Lithium Ion cells in the JIL-Cab or JIL-Bus body since no normal JIL head can take the resulting 7.2V (actually up to 8.4V for two fully charged cells). Even the Intelli or a FLuPIC mod cannot handle two LiIon cells.
Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) battery care:
Anyone who is not familar with 3.6V Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) rechargeable cells should definitely do some research on CPF before buying or using them. They require some caution to charge and use safely and can be dangerous if mishandled (they can vent hot gasses or explode). Note that you'll need a smart Li-Ion battery charger with fairly low charging current for the RCR2 3.6V Li-Ion cells. When charging Li-Ion cells the charging current in mA should be kept under the rated capacity of the cell in mAh (this is called 1C). Charging current greater than 1C is bad for Li-Ion cells. Most currently available RCR2 cells have a capacity of 300-350mAh so they can be charged on any smart Li-Ion charger with a rate of less than 300mA. The Nano CR123 charger (available from Lighthound, AW, or Dae) is reported to have a charging current of about 150mA (once it settles down). The light on the Nano goes green somewhat below 4.1V but the Nano continues to trickle charges at 15-30mA after the light is green (probably up to the charger open voltage of about 4.21V). The Nano CR123 charger with a 7mm conductive spacer is ideal for RCR2 (15266 or 15270) cells. You could also use a Nano AAA charger with some wires to connect the cell to the charger leads. Other Li-Ion battery chargers may have too high of current for the tiny RCR2 cells so do some research before trying one. You definitely don't want to try charging a tiny RCR2 cell on a charger with a high charging current which is designed for the much higher capacity 17670 or 18650 cells. The stock DSD charger typically has a charging current of about 350mA, but this can vary depending on the transformer (wall wart) that is used with the DSD, so be careful. CPF battery dealer AW recommends NOT charging his 300mAh unprotected RCR2 cells on the DSD charger, but the DSD should be ok for the 350mAh protected RCR2's (unless you are using a different wall wart). The message about Li-Ion cells should be clear: Do not use Li-Ion cells until you have done some research and understand how to handle them.
Other battery types:
There are some other types of batteries that have been discussed for potential use in the JIL.
SAFT, TADIRAN, and LISUN (3.6v Lithium Thionyl Chloride primary cells):
SAFT lithium batteries are 3.6V primary batteries that are optimized for high capacity but cannot deliver high current. According to reports on CPF, SAFT batteries can only deliver about 100-200 mA, so they cannot produce the current required to drive the JIL at full brightness. LISUN batteries have similar limitations to SAFT batteries, they can only deliver about 100 mA to a direct-drive light. You shouldn't expect much more brightness from a 3.6V lithium primary cell than a 3V lithium primary cell due to the high internal resistance of the 3.6V cell. However the ability of the 3.6V cells to deliver power to the JIL 1.3W is less certain (please post if you have tried one of these cells with a JIL 1.3W).
TADIRAN 3.6V Lithium primary cells (details and test results):
In a test, a TADIRAN cell drove a JCR2-LR at about 65mA (slightly above what a normal 3V lithium primary will do). The TADIRAN batteries seem to be able to deliver much more current to the JIL 1.3W, a test with a 3.6V TADRIAN cell showed the MicroPuck could draw about 500mA from it. A 1/2-AA size TADIRAN battery may be a potential choice for the JIL-DD in the CR2 body when maximum runtime is desired and maximum brightness is not a concern. Similarly an AA-size TADIRAN could be used in the JIL-Cab body. Either option should produce normal brightness for for the 1.3W head but the long-term results of the increased static cell voltage on the MicroPuck converter are not known.
(some more info about SAFT batteries can be found in this thread and a good review of the results of a SAFT in a direct-drive Orb Raw NS can be found in this thread thread; test results for the TADIRAN cell can be found later in this tread)
3V AA:
It may be possible to get an AA-size 3V lithium primary cells (for use in the JIL-Cab) by disassembling a CRV3 battery. It has been reported that CRV3 batteries that have two flat contact plates visible through the holes at one end are constructed of two 3V lithium primary cells; however Energizer CRV3 batteries that have a raised positive contact visible through the 'holes' at one end are purportedly constructed of two 1.5V lithium primary cells.
(some more info about dividing CRV3 batteries can be found in this thread)
FLuPIC User Information:
If you get a JIL-CR2 Intelli or a JIL-CR2 that has been modified with a FLuPIC, you will want to read the Users Guide for the FLuPIC V2.1 firmware, which shows the state transition diagram for how to use all the settings and modes. You will want to review the diagram carefully and probably print a copy. See the first post in this thread for the diagram (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88623 ). Note that the JIL-CR2 with FLuPIC will flicker once after 1.2 seconds to indicate that it is now 'locked' into that setting. If you turn the light off before the 'flicker' it will advance to the next setting (the next time you turn it on). If you turn the light off after the 'flicker' it will return to the 1st setting for the current mode (typically the low brightness setting). Note that you can 'preset' the light to turn on the next time at a given setting by turning it on and off quickly until the appropriate setting will be the next one to turn on, then simply leaving the light off; the next setting will be the first one to appear the next time the light is turned on.
FLuPIC modding info:
The JIL-CR2 DD Intelli and JCR2-IT use CPF member goldserve's 0.55" (13.96mm) Sammie size board, 0.6mm thick (see this thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/112678 ). These short lights use a 0.55" and 0.6mm thick board so it can be recessed in the light body. The 0.55" board uses a metal retaining ring to hold the FLuPIC board in place. The ring is necessary to install a FLuPIC in a JIL DD or JCR2-LR head. The ring is available from CPF member goldserve. The retaining ring on the JIL Intelli is accessable from the bezel, beneath the reflector.
The JIL-CR2 1.3W and JCR2-HI use either the 0.6" (15.24mm) sized emitter board, 0.9mm thick or the 0.6" (15.24mm) Fenix sized, 1.2mm thick. The board diameter needs to be 0.6", but the thickness does not really matter with the JIL 1.3W and JCR2-HI since there is plenty of room in the head after the MicroPuck driver is removed. The 0.6" board so it sits inside the light without the assistance of a metal ring. The emitter board can then be adjusted to take the space that was taken by the MicroPuck driver, which is removed to install the FLuPIC.
JIL timeline (a work in progress):
2003: original JIL prototype (the first 100 pieces were direct drive with an NX05 optic rather than a reflector and had a totally different body appearance).
03-12-2005: LITEmania (Warren) starts his first JIL sales thread for the JIL CR2 1.3W (not Up yet).
Sources for JIL flashlights and related items:
JIL CR2 DD, 1.3W, Intelli:
--LITEmania (Warren)'s new thread for updated version (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=123082)
--JIL-Lite shop (the manufacturer's website, in Korean) (http://www.jillite.com)
--LightHound (http://www.lighthound.com/sales/jil_cr2_keychain_flashlight.htm )
JIL CR2 series accessories:
--LITEmania (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=101183)
Drop in FLuPIC controller for JIL CR2 DD:
--CPF member goldserve (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/95886 or )
Drop in FLuPIC controller for JIL CR2 DD or 1.3W (with U-bin LED):
--CPF member goldserve (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/119470 )
Seoul P4 LED upgrade for JIL JCR2 series lights:
--CPF member goldserve (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153078 )
Kroll switches for the JIL-Cab or JIL-Bus body:
--The Sandwich Shoppe or PhotonFanatic (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/85330 )
Light engines for JIL-DD (this is the circuit board that holds the LED, it is the part that is left over when you upgrade a JIL-DD with goldserve's drop in FLuPIC mod):
--CPF member this_is_nascar (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108084)
Rechargeable RCR2 3.6V LiIon batteries:
--AW (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97268)
--LightHound (http://www.lighthound.com/sales/unprotected_lithium_batteries.htm)
--Emilion (http://lights.emilionworkshop.com/)
Inexpensive primary CR2 batteries:
--batterystation (http://www.batterystation.com/cpf.htm)
--amondotech (http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp)
--LightHound (http://www.lighthound.com/sales/cr2_battery.htm)
--Emilion (http://lights.emilionworkshop.com/)
Sheaths (or Holsters) for the JIL CR2:
--Kydex: LITEmania (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108356)
--leather: AW (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112729)
MicroPuck boost converter (for 1.3W or JCR2-HI):
--LEDdynamics LuxDrive 2009-HI (http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/micropuck.php )
Links to information about JIL flashlights and related items:
--Review of the JIL by respected CPF member Cones: (http://www.cones-stuff.co.uk/) (look on the 'torches' page for reviews of the "JIL-Lite CR2 1.3W UP", "JIL-Lite CR2 DD UP", and the "FluPIC JIL DD")
--Review of the JIL-DD Intelli by LED Museum (http://ledmuseum.candlepower.us/fifth/jildd.htm)
--CPF member goldserve's FLuPIC threads:
Introducing FLuPIC V2.1 firmware! (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88623 ) (note that the JIL-CR2 Intelli used V2.1 firmware)
Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware - User Guide UP! (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=123520 )
FS: FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/95886)
--Old JIL sales threads
----LITEmania's last JIL-CR2 sales thread (before the JCR2 version)FS : JIL CR2 Series (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=101183 )
--Miscellaneous CPF threads that discuss the JIL (included because of the difficulty of searching)
JIL-CR2 1.3W with Goldserve's Piglet driver and Seoul P4 LED(https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/158912)
JIL CR2 DD battery(http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=113833)
Battle of the Small Lights : Which to choose?(http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112939)
Jil DD output vs. other lights and any Jil DD owners in socal? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110089)
JIL Intelli light mod (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111695)
Which is better..JIL or AmiLite Neo T3? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111171)
anyone know where I can buy the orange O-ring for the Jil DD UP? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110970)
**closed**FS : Limited Run TW0H JIL CR2 ( 100set ) (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=90290)
Feeler : JIL CR2 series with FluPic (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96961)
[TIN's] Quick Jil Review (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=84328)
JILLITE HA3 2AA Body Extension (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92572)
--This thread has some good testimonials about how durable the JIL's HA3 finish is:
How well does HAIII hold up to keychain use? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=126768&highlight=JIL )
--Info about the JIL-CR2 1.3W UV (Ultra Violet) version:
Feeler : JIL CR2 1.3W UV (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91749 )
FS : JIL CR2 1.3W UV (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92104 )
Does anyone else own a Jil 1.3W UV? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118359 )
JIL UV First impression. (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=128806 )
--Thread about "joker" (lower die height) Luxeon LED's
The New Luxeon III Generation Issues (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/94722 )
(If anyone has links for other threads that have valuable information about the JIL, please post them and I'll include them.)
Notes:
Because of the difficulty of searching on a short word like "JIL", I suggest that all people who make posts about the JIL use the name "JIL-CR2", since this is long enough to search for in CPF.
Suggestion to Warren (LITEmania): Change the markings of the JIL series to mark the bezel with "JIL-DD" or "JIL-1.3W" or "JIL-Intelli" and mark the body with "JIL-CR2" or "JIL-Cab" or "JIL-Bus". Use the hyphens so that the names will be easier to search for on Google or CPF.
Keywords (so this post will appear in searchs for JIL info):
Normal: JIL JILLite JIL-Lite JIL-CR2 CR2 RCR2 JIL-DD JIL-DD(Up) DD(Up) JIL-1.3W JIL-1.3W(Up) 1.3W(Up) (Up) upgrade UCL JIL-UV ultraviolet JIL-Intelli Intelli JILLite-JCR2 JIL-JCR2 JCR2 JCR2-LR JCR2-HI JCR2-UV JCR2-IT JCR2-Intelli JIL-Cab Cab JIL-Bus Bus LITEmania Warren Korea
Non-standard or Incorrect: JCR2-DD JCR2-1.3W JIL-Car JIL(Up) JIL-Lite-JCR2
I hope you don't mind if I use this thread to ask for feedback on the JIL information document I've been working on. I've been meaning to post this for weeks but there always seems to be one more revision I want to do to it. I would eventually like to make this the first post in a new thread specifically dedicated to the JIL series (perhaps in the Reviews forum). Let me know what you think [note that this post has been edited several times to include additional information].
----
Information about the JIL CR2 series:
It can be rather confusing for a newcomer to understand the JIL CR2 series of flashlights. It is hard to find information about the JIL CR2 outside of CPF and it is difficult to search on short strings like "JIL" in CPF. I will try to summarize some information about the JIL series for the benefit of all.
JIL CR2 flashlights are made in South Korea and exported in small quantities. Production so far has been limited. The name "JIL" is an acronym that stands for "Jesus In Light" (which explains why it is also sometimes written as JiL with a small "i").
Note that this post still uses the original names for the JIL CR2 series (DD, 1.3W, Intelli). In July of 2006 the JIL series was updated (updates include a matte gray HA3 finish and McR-18 reflector). The new name of the series is JCR2 and the new names for the models are as follows: JIL CR2 DD --> JCR2 LR (LongRun), JIL CR2 1.3w --> JCR2 HI (High Intensity), JIL CR2 Intelli --> JCR2 IT (Intelli), JIL CR2 UV --> JCR2 UV.
JIL CR2 series flashlight heads:
JIL-DD: The JIL-DD direct drives the LED. The input voltage that can be used depends on the bin of the LED that is installed in the JIL-DD head. Using a voltage less than the Vf for the LED is referred to as 'underdriving' and results in dimmer light from the LED. Using a voltage higher than the Vf for the LED is referred to as 'overdriving' and will increase brightness but will reduce energy efficiency and shorten the LED lifespan. Voltages much higher than the Vf for the LED will shorten its lifespan to zero (poof) unless a resistor is used. The stock JIL-DD (with either the TW0J or TW0H emitter) is significantly underdriven by a 3V primary battery (CR2) which is why the JIL-DD @ 3V is not as bright as the JIL-1.3W (which boosts the battery voltage). The stock JIL-DD with either a TW0J or TW0H LED would be overdriven by a 3.6V LiIon rechargeable cell (RCR2). The TW0J emitter (Vf = 3.27-3.51) would be mildly overdriven by a 3.6V LiIon, while the TW0H emitter (Vf = 3.03-3.27) would be significantly overdriven, especially since a "3.6V" LiIon cell produces up to 4.2V when it is fresh off the charger. Technically an xxxK bin emitter (Vf = 3.51-3.75) would be much better suited for direct drive with a 3.6V LiIon rechargeable cell.
JIL-1.3W: Contains a LEDdynamics LuxDrive MicroPuck controller (model 2009-HI, or maybe HO???) to boost the voltage of a 3V Lithium primary cell, in order to achieve increased brightness with 3V primary batteries at the expense of reduced runtime. The MicroPuck is designed for a battery voltage of 1V to 3V with 3V giving the rated current (400mA) to the LED and lower input voltages providing less current to the LED. The optimal input is 3V from either a Lithium primary CR2 cell or two 1.5V cells in an optional battery extension (such as two AA Alkaline cells in the JIL-Bus extension). Using 3.6V LiIon rechargeable cells with the 1.3W head is not recommended because the MicroPuck controller is only rated for up to 3V input (in its typical boost configuration in the JIL-1.3W). (At least one person has tried a Li-Ion cell in the 1.3W UV and it does not immediately fail, but the long term effects are uncertain). Two 1.2V NiMH cells (2.4V) will work with the JIL-1.3W head but the light output will be a bit lower (probably about 280mA to the LED = 70% as bright as a 3V input). The MicroPuck can even boost a single 1.2V or 1.5V cell enough to power the LED, but it will be much less bright (probably about 100mA to the LED from a 1.2V input and about 150mA to the LED from a 1.5V input = 25% to 40% as bright as a 3V input ). The data sheet for the MicroPuck boost converter is available here: http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/datasheets/2009A-MicroPuck.pdf . Note that the 1.3W head is longer than the DD head; some people have commented that this makes the head easier to turn with one hand when using the CR2 body, especially if some o-rings are fitted into the 3 grooves in the head. The 1.3W model can be identified by the longer head and because it has 3 grooves and two rows of 'texture' bars (knurling). The DD model has a shorter head with only 2 grooves and one row of 'texture' bars. The 'texture' bars on the newer (Up) models are at a 45 degree diagonal, while the 'texture' bars on the original pre-Up version seem to be longitudinal.
JIL-1.3W modded with FLuPIC: The first version of the JIL CR2 that was modified to use the FLuPIC controller was the 1.3W version, because it had more room in the head for the FLuPIC electronics. However, the MicroPuck controller was removed from the head to make room for the FLuPIC so this mod cannot boost brightness with primary batteries like the normal JIL-1.3W head. Eventually the size of the FLuPIC mod was reduced to fit inside the smaller JIL-DD head and the FLuPIC mod for the JIL-1.3W was discontinued.
JIL-DD modded with FLuPIC, or "Intelli": A variant of the JIL-DD that includes a FLuPIC module (developed by CPF member goldserve) that limits the maximum current to the LED and offers variable brightness levels and modes such as strobe and SOS. The FLuPIC uses pulse width modulation to control the brightness of the light. The FLuPIC mod for the JIL-DD can be purchased from its creator, CPF member goldserve. The FLuPIC for the JIL-DD can also be included by the manufacturer/distributor, in the "Intelli" version; this version is marked "INTELLI"on the side of the bezel and was first introduced as a special to CPF members for the holiday season at the end of 2005. Input voltage to the FLuPIC can be 2.4 to 4.5V (a fresh "3.6V" LiIon produces 4.2V for a short time). I am not certain of the maximum voltage that the FLuPIC can tolerate beyond 4.5V, but goldserve has said that 4.5V from three 1.5V cells in series would be ok and has specifically said to NOT use two LiIon cells in series (8.4V peak). Here is some clarification from goldserve: "I'd say 4.5, 4.8V is okay to power a K or J bin led. The board will handle up to 5.5V if you power something within the range of 4.5-5V led. Maybe the K2s could use this combination. I will try the K2 leds with a 6V input in the future. Stress test it to make sure the uC will last at 6V." When using a Li-Ion RCR2 cell, the FLuPIC will deliver about 600mA to the LED at the maximum brightness setting (20 of 20) and perhaps 800-1000mA in the maximum (or 'burst') setting (I have seen different numbers in posts and haven't measured it myself yet).
LED:
The JIL CR2 uses a Luxeon III LED (sometimes referred to as a "3 watt" LED). Most early versions used a TW0J LED, although apparently some TxxK bin (K-bin Vf) JIL-CR2 DD models were made in the early time of production. At that time you could get a TxxK LED by special request, if you intended to use RCR2 Li-Ion rechargable cells (very bright, very hot and about 20mins of runtime), however this has been mostly superseded by the Intelli or DD with FLuPIC. In August of 2005 versions with a TW0H LED were introduced (these first shipped on 09-26-2005). There is also a version of the 1.3W model with an ultraviolet (UV) LED (Cree 7090 UV LED, 395nm). For someone who is skilled at soldering, it is fairly easy to change the LED in the JIL so there may be variations with other types of LED's (especially for JIL-DD's that have been modded with a FLuPIC). In February 2007, CPF member goldserve introduced a mod to install a Seoul P4 LED in the newer JCR2 series lights (see here for details).
Reflector:
I believe there are at least four reflectors available for the JIL CR2 head: the original reflector, the (Up) reflector, the slightly longer (Up) reflector for the "Joker" TW0H LED, and a McR-18 reflector for a "Joker" LED. The original reflector was changed to the (Up) reflector in the (Up) upgrade package. The (Up) reflector is slightly different between the original TW0J lights and the newer TW0H lights due to a difference in the height of the LED. I believe the change occurred in late 2005. The TW0H lights had a "Joker" style LED (which have a lower die height than a non-Joker LED). The JCR2 model (introduced in July of 2006) uses a McR-18 reflector (optimized for whichever type of LED that particular light has ("Joker" or non-"Joker") [I believe].
Lens:
Early versions of the JIL CR2 had a plastic lens. An ultra clear mineral glass lens (ultra-clear lens or UCL) was made available as an upgrade. When the UCL was included at the factory, the designation "(Up)" for Upgraded was added to the name engraved on the side of the body. This is now the standard configuration, so the (Up) simply identifies the light as one of the newer versions where the UCL is standard (along with the (Up) reflector).
JIL CR2 series flashlight bodies and body extensions:
JIL-CR2 (1 x CR2 size): This is the normal 'stock' body for the JIL-CR2 series. The normal JIL CR2 body does not have a tailcap (the body must be unscrewed from the head to replace the CR2 battery). There is no way to mount a tailcap switch on the JIL CR2 body, however both the JIL-Cab and JIL-Bus body extensions for the JIL have tailcaps that can be replaced with a 'clickie' switch like the Kroll switch. The CR2 body is intended for one 3V CR2 primary cell with the JIL-DD or JIL-1.3W heads, or for one 3.6V LiIon RCR2 rechargeable cell with the JIL-DD Intelli head (or other FLuPIC modded head). The Intelli head can also be used with a 3V CR2 primary, but the brightness will be similar to the JIL-DD. A 3.6V LiIon RCR2 could also be used in combination with a JIL-DD head that does not have a FLuPIC but contains an LED that is capable of tolerating the 3.6+ volts of a LiIon cell such as an xxxK bin Luxeon III. Running an xxxJ bin on direct drive from a 3.6V LiIon is not recommended, but several people on CPF have reported doing it and there have not been any reports of LED failures yet. Running an xxxH bin on direct drive from a 3.6V LiIon is not recommended and I am not aware of any reports of this being tried. Note that there have been reports of some RCR2's (15270 or 15266 cells) being too wide to easily fit in the JIL CR2 body. Removing the battery label usually solves this. There have also been reports of some RCR2's being a bit too short to make contact. A small spacer magnet or a piece of folded aluminum foil will solve this. If you're worried about the 15270 RCR2 fitting the JIL CR2 body, AW also sells LiIon batteries in size 14270 (310 mAh, unprotected) which is a slightly smaller diameter than the CR2 (15270) and easily fits the JIL CR2 tube (in fact, AW says they're loose enough to rattle).
JIL-Cab (1 x AA size): The JIL-Cab is primarily intended to allow a single AA-sized (14500) rechargeable 3.6V LiIon cell to be used with the JIL CR2 DD-Intelli head (or any other JIL with a FLuPIC controller that can limit the current to the LED) to achieve increased runtime over the smaller CR2-sized cell. The JIL-Cab extension could also be used with a JIL CR2 DD head that does not have a FLuPIC but contains an LED that is capable of tolerating the 3.6+ volts of a 14500 LiIon cell. Another option is that two 3V AA-sized lithium primary cells can be obtained by splitting up a CRV3 battery; one of these 3V AA-sized lithium primary cells can be used to run either the DD or the 1.3W version with the JIL-Cab body. There is also a 3.6V AA-sized primary cell available (SAFT, TADIRAN, etc.), it cannot deliver the current necessary to run the DD or DD-Intelli at full brightness but the boost circuit in the 1.3W seems to be able to get full brightness from some of them. The JIL-Cab can be used with the 1.3W head and 1 x AA alkaline or NiMH battery but it will be much less bright with only 1.2-1.5V of input compared to 3V input, however it should still be brighter than the JIL-DD with 3V input. The JIL-Cab cannot be used with the DD or DD-Intelli heads with only 1 x AA alkaline or NiMH battery because the 1.5V of a single alkaline cell or 1.2V of a single NiMH cell is not sufficient to power the LED. The JIL-Cab has a tailcap that can be replaced with a 'clickie' switch like the Kroll switch. The back end of the JIL-Cab and JIL-Bus are designed to be compatible with a SureFire Z60 lanyard.
JIL-Bus (2 x AA size): The JIL-Bus is primarily intended to allow 2 alkaline AA or 2 NiMH AA cells to be used with the JIL-1.3W head to provide a nearly constant light output for a much longer time than the approximately 90 minutes from a 700 mAh CR2 primary. The JIL-Bus can also be used with the JIL-DD head and 2 alkaline AA cells to provide an extremely long runtime (several days of continuous operation), although the light output will decrease as the voltage of the alkaline batteries drops as they discharge (using two 1.5V Lithium AA cells instead of alkaline would provide a more constant light level because the Lithium AA cells have less variation in voltage as they discharge). While the JIL-Bus could be used with the JIL-DD head (or JIL-DD Intelli head) and 2 NiMH cells, the 2.4V from the cells would significantly underdrive the LED and the light would be fairly dim (but would have outstanding runtime, I intend to eventually try this and see how many days or weeks it runs). The JIL-Bus has a tailcap that can be replaced with a 'clickie' switch like the Kroll switch. The back end of the JIL-Cab and JIL-Bus are designed to be compatible with a SureFire Z60 lanyard.
Finish:
The JIL-CR2 series is coated with a very durable Type III Hard Anodized (or HA3) finish that is a semi-glossy gray color. There is no brown or green tint, it is completely gray. The darkness of the gray can vary somewhat from one batch of annodizing to another, which is typical of natural HA3 annodizing, so JIL's that were annodized in different batches may appear to be slightly different shades of gray. There were a few JIL-CR2 DD models made with a shiny chrome finish. The chrome finish has been reported to be even more durable than the HA3. The new JCR2 series is coted with a HA3 finish that is a matte silvery-gray color (a chrome version of the JCR2-LR will be available).
Reported measurements for JIL head/body combinations: (various sources)
JIL-DD head with CR2 body: 51.5mm long, 18mm body diameter, 20mm head diameter, 28 grams with battery (2.027in long, 0.71in body diameter, 0.787in head diameter, 1oz with battery).
JIL-DD Intelli head with CR2 body: same dimensions as the JIL-DD (maybe a tiny bit longer), 32 grams with battery (1.13oz).
JIL-1.3W head with CR2 body: 60mm long, 18mm body diameter, 20mm head diameter, 38 grams with battery (2.363in long,0.71in body diameter, 0.787in head diameter, 1.34oz with battery).
Brightness:
See Cones' review (link below). From Cones' reviews of the JiL's, the JIL-DD Intelli with a RCR2 cell is about 800-900 lux on full power (for 15 minutes) while the JIL-1.3W with a CR2 primary cell is about 400-450 lux (for 90 minutes) and the JIL-DD with a CR2 primary cell is about 80 lux (for 12+ hours). The new JCR2 versions should provide somewhat higher lux readings due to the more focused hotspot provided by the McR-18 reflector, however the total light output (lumens) should be the same as the previous versions (assuming the same bin LED and battery type are used).
Other possible battery sizes and combinations:
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the JIL-Bus body could use one 14670 LiIon cell along with a fairly long spacer (33mm). This would provide about 30% more capacity than a 14500 (AA size) cell.
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the JIL-Bus body can use three 2/3AA-sized NiMH cells (3 x 1.2V = 3.6V). This requires a small spacer because three 2/3AA size cells are actually shorter than two AA size cells. Three high current NiMH cells (3.6V) drive the JIL-DD or Intelli head at nearly the brightness of a LiIon cell (3.6 to 4.2V) but the head does not heat up as quickly because the LED is not being overdriven as much. Note that since the three 2/3AA NiMH cells are in series, their capacity does not add (although their voltages do), so this combination only provides the same mAh capacity as one cell (about 650-750 mAh).
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the JIL-Bus body could use three N-sized cells (with appropriate spacers and perhaps an outer tube or tape to keep them from rattling). NiMH N cells should be similar to the 2/3AA cells described above but with somewhat less capacity. Alkaline N cells should only be used with the Intelli head, which can limit the current to the LED; this configuration preforms similarly to thee NiMH 2/3AA cells. There doesnt seem to be much difference in brightness between level 20 and burst (Maximum Brightness) and it doesn't heat up as quickly as it does on the burst setting with a single fully charged LiIon RCR2 cell.
The JIL-DD (or Intelli) head with the CR2 body can use four 1.5V alkaline coin cells (LR44, 357, AG-13) in series (reported by CPF member vcal). The voltage sag of the coin cells under load means that the LED does not actually see 4 x 1.5V = 6V. A spacer (such as a nut) is needed to make the stack of coin cells long enough and it is necessary to wrap something around the cells (such as a strip of paper from a business card) so that the smaller diameter cells will not rattle in the body. (When I tried this with an Intelli, I had difficulty getting a good contact and it tended to switch modes somewhat erratically.) Note that 6V is the maximum for the electronics such as the uC and LDO.
CPF member vcal reported that a 476A 6V alkaline cell (also known as a 4LR44) with a 1/16" spacer works amazingly well in the JIL-DD with CR2 body. The voltage sag due to the high current draw apparently protects the LED, although note that this report must have been using the TW0J LED because it was before the TW0H version was released.
DO NOT attempt to use two 3.6V Lithium Ion cells in the JIL-Cab or JIL-Bus body since no normal JIL head can take the resulting 7.2V (actually up to 8.4V for two fully charged cells). Even the Intelli or a FLuPIC mod cannot handle two LiIon cells.
Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) battery care:
Anyone who is not familar with 3.6V Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) rechargeable cells should definitely do some research on CPF before buying or using them. They require some caution to charge and use safely and can be dangerous if mishandled (they can vent hot gasses or explode). Note that you'll need a smart Li-Ion battery charger with fairly low charging current for the RCR2 3.6V Li-Ion cells. When charging Li-Ion cells the charging current in mA should be kept under the rated capacity of the cell in mAh (this is called 1C). Charging current greater than 1C is bad for Li-Ion cells. Most currently available RCR2 cells have a capacity of 300-350mAh so they can be charged on any smart Li-Ion charger with a rate of less than 300mA. The Nano CR123 charger (available from Lighthound, AW, or Dae) is reported to have a charging current of about 150mA (once it settles down). The light on the Nano goes green somewhat below 4.1V but the Nano continues to trickle charges at 15-30mA after the light is green (probably up to the charger open voltage of about 4.21V). The Nano CR123 charger with a 7mm conductive spacer is ideal for RCR2 (15266 or 15270) cells. You could also use a Nano AAA charger with some wires to connect the cell to the charger leads. Other Li-Ion battery chargers may have too high of current for the tiny RCR2 cells so do some research before trying one. You definitely don't want to try charging a tiny RCR2 cell on a charger with a high charging current which is designed for the much higher capacity 17670 or 18650 cells. The stock DSD charger typically has a charging current of about 350mA, but this can vary depending on the transformer (wall wart) that is used with the DSD, so be careful. CPF battery dealer AW recommends NOT charging his 300mAh unprotected RCR2 cells on the DSD charger, but the DSD should be ok for the 350mAh protected RCR2's (unless you are using a different wall wart). The message about Li-Ion cells should be clear: Do not use Li-Ion cells until you have done some research and understand how to handle them.
Other battery types:
There are some other types of batteries that have been discussed for potential use in the JIL.
SAFT, TADIRAN, and LISUN (3.6v Lithium Thionyl Chloride primary cells):
SAFT lithium batteries are 3.6V primary batteries that are optimized for high capacity but cannot deliver high current. According to reports on CPF, SAFT batteries can only deliver about 100-200 mA, so they cannot produce the current required to drive the JIL at full brightness. LISUN batteries have similar limitations to SAFT batteries, they can only deliver about 100 mA to a direct-drive light. You shouldn't expect much more brightness from a 3.6V lithium primary cell than a 3V lithium primary cell due to the high internal resistance of the 3.6V cell. However the ability of the 3.6V cells to deliver power to the JIL 1.3W is less certain (please post if you have tried one of these cells with a JIL 1.3W).
TADIRAN 3.6V Lithium primary cells (details and test results):
In a test, a TADIRAN cell drove a JCR2-LR at about 65mA (slightly above what a normal 3V lithium primary will do). The TADIRAN batteries seem to be able to deliver much more current to the JIL 1.3W, a test with a 3.6V TADRIAN cell showed the MicroPuck could draw about 500mA from it. A 1/2-AA size TADIRAN battery may be a potential choice for the JIL-DD in the CR2 body when maximum runtime is desired and maximum brightness is not a concern. Similarly an AA-size TADIRAN could be used in the JIL-Cab body. Either option should produce normal brightness for for the 1.3W head but the long-term results of the increased static cell voltage on the MicroPuck converter are not known.
(some more info about SAFT batteries can be found in this thread and a good review of the results of a SAFT in a direct-drive Orb Raw NS can be found in this thread thread; test results for the TADIRAN cell can be found later in this tread)
3V AA:
It may be possible to get an AA-size 3V lithium primary cells (for use in the JIL-Cab) by disassembling a CRV3 battery. It has been reported that CRV3 batteries that have two flat contact plates visible through the holes at one end are constructed of two 3V lithium primary cells; however Energizer CRV3 batteries that have a raised positive contact visible through the 'holes' at one end are purportedly constructed of two 1.5V lithium primary cells.
(some more info about dividing CRV3 batteries can be found in this thread)
FLuPIC User Information:
If you get a JIL-CR2 Intelli or a JIL-CR2 that has been modified with a FLuPIC, you will want to read the Users Guide for the FLuPIC V2.1 firmware, which shows the state transition diagram for how to use all the settings and modes. You will want to review the diagram carefully and probably print a copy. See the first post in this thread for the diagram (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88623 ). Note that the JIL-CR2 with FLuPIC will flicker once after 1.2 seconds to indicate that it is now 'locked' into that setting. If you turn the light off before the 'flicker' it will advance to the next setting (the next time you turn it on). If you turn the light off after the 'flicker' it will return to the 1st setting for the current mode (typically the low brightness setting). Note that you can 'preset' the light to turn on the next time at a given setting by turning it on and off quickly until the appropriate setting will be the next one to turn on, then simply leaving the light off; the next setting will be the first one to appear the next time the light is turned on.
FLuPIC modding info:
The JIL-CR2 DD Intelli and JCR2-IT use CPF member goldserve's 0.55" (13.96mm) Sammie size board, 0.6mm thick (see this thread https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/112678 ). These short lights use a 0.55" and 0.6mm thick board so it can be recessed in the light body. The 0.55" board uses a metal retaining ring to hold the FLuPIC board in place. The ring is necessary to install a FLuPIC in a JIL DD or JCR2-LR head. The ring is available from CPF member goldserve. The retaining ring on the JIL Intelli is accessable from the bezel, beneath the reflector.
The JIL-CR2 1.3W and JCR2-HI use either the 0.6" (15.24mm) sized emitter board, 0.9mm thick or the 0.6" (15.24mm) Fenix sized, 1.2mm thick. The board diameter needs to be 0.6", but the thickness does not really matter with the JIL 1.3W and JCR2-HI since there is plenty of room in the head after the MicroPuck driver is removed. The 0.6" board so it sits inside the light without the assistance of a metal ring. The emitter board can then be adjusted to take the space that was taken by the MicroPuck driver, which is removed to install the FLuPIC.
JIL timeline (a work in progress):
2003: original JIL prototype (the first 100 pieces were direct drive with an NX05 optic rather than a reflector and had a totally different body appearance).
03-12-2005: LITEmania (Warren) starts his first JIL sales thread for the JIL CR2 1.3W (not Up yet).
Sources for JIL flashlights and related items:
JIL CR2 DD, 1.3W, Intelli:
--LITEmania (Warren)'s new thread for updated version (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=123082)
--JIL-Lite shop (the manufacturer's website, in Korean) (http://www.jillite.com)
--LightHound (http://www.lighthound.com/sales/jil_cr2_keychain_flashlight.htm )
JIL CR2 series accessories:
--LITEmania (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=101183)
Drop in FLuPIC controller for JIL CR2 DD:
--CPF member goldserve (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/95886 or )
Drop in FLuPIC controller for JIL CR2 DD or 1.3W (with U-bin LED):
--CPF member goldserve (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/119470 )
Seoul P4 LED upgrade for JIL JCR2 series lights:
--CPF member goldserve (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/153078 )
Kroll switches for the JIL-Cab or JIL-Bus body:
--The Sandwich Shoppe or PhotonFanatic (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/85330 )
Light engines for JIL-DD (this is the circuit board that holds the LED, it is the part that is left over when you upgrade a JIL-DD with goldserve's drop in FLuPIC mod):
--CPF member this_is_nascar (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108084)
Rechargeable RCR2 3.6V LiIon batteries:
--AW (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97268)
--LightHound (http://www.lighthound.com/sales/unprotected_lithium_batteries.htm)
--Emilion (http://lights.emilionworkshop.com/)
Inexpensive primary CR2 batteries:
--batterystation (http://www.batterystation.com/cpf.htm)
--amondotech (http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp)
--LightHound (http://www.lighthound.com/sales/cr2_battery.htm)
--Emilion (http://lights.emilionworkshop.com/)
Sheaths (or Holsters) for the JIL CR2:
--Kydex: LITEmania (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=108356)
--leather: AW (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112729)
MicroPuck boost converter (for 1.3W or JCR2-HI):
--LEDdynamics LuxDrive 2009-HI (http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/micropuck.php )
Links to information about JIL flashlights and related items:
--Review of the JIL by respected CPF member Cones: (http://www.cones-stuff.co.uk/) (look on the 'torches' page for reviews of the "JIL-Lite CR2 1.3W UP", "JIL-Lite CR2 DD UP", and the "FluPIC JIL DD")
--Review of the JIL-DD Intelli by LED Museum (http://ledmuseum.candlepower.us/fifth/jildd.htm)
--CPF member goldserve's FLuPIC threads:
Introducing FLuPIC V2.1 firmware! (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=88623 ) (note that the JIL-CR2 Intelli used V2.1 firmware)
Introducing FluPIC V2.2 firmware - User Guide UP! (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=123520 )
FS: FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/95886)
--Old JIL sales threads
----LITEmania's last JIL-CR2 sales thread (before the JCR2 version)FS : JIL CR2 Series (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=101183 )
--Miscellaneous CPF threads that discuss the JIL (included because of the difficulty of searching)
JIL-CR2 1.3W with Goldserve's Piglet driver and Seoul P4 LED(https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/158912)
JIL CR2 DD battery(http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=113833)
Battle of the Small Lights : Which to choose?(http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112939)
Jil DD output vs. other lights and any Jil DD owners in socal? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110089)
JIL Intelli light mod (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111695)
Which is better..JIL or AmiLite Neo T3? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111171)
anyone know where I can buy the orange O-ring for the Jil DD UP? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110970)
**closed**FS : Limited Run TW0H JIL CR2 ( 100set ) (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=90290)
Feeler : JIL CR2 series with FluPic (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96961)
[TIN's] Quick Jil Review (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=84328)
JILLITE HA3 2AA Body Extension (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92572)
--This thread has some good testimonials about how durable the JIL's HA3 finish is:
How well does HAIII hold up to keychain use? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=126768&highlight=JIL )
--Info about the JIL-CR2 1.3W UV (Ultra Violet) version:
Feeler : JIL CR2 1.3W UV (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91749 )
FS : JIL CR2 1.3W UV (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92104 )
Does anyone else own a Jil 1.3W UV? (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118359 )
JIL UV First impression. (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=128806 )
--Thread about "joker" (lower die height) Luxeon LED's
The New Luxeon III Generation Issues (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/94722 )
(If anyone has links for other threads that have valuable information about the JIL, please post them and I'll include them.)
Notes:
Because of the difficulty of searching on a short word like "JIL", I suggest that all people who make posts about the JIL use the name "JIL-CR2", since this is long enough to search for in CPF.
Suggestion to Warren (LITEmania): Change the markings of the JIL series to mark the bezel with "JIL-DD" or "JIL-1.3W" or "JIL-Intelli" and mark the body with "JIL-CR2" or "JIL-Cab" or "JIL-Bus". Use the hyphens so that the names will be easier to search for on Google or CPF.
Keywords (so this post will appear in searchs for JIL info):
Normal: JIL JILLite JIL-Lite JIL-CR2 CR2 RCR2 JIL-DD JIL-DD(Up) DD(Up) JIL-1.3W JIL-1.3W(Up) 1.3W(Up) (Up) upgrade UCL JIL-UV ultraviolet JIL-Intelli Intelli JILLite-JCR2 JIL-JCR2 JCR2 JCR2-LR JCR2-HI JCR2-UV JCR2-IT JCR2-Intelli JIL-Cab Cab JIL-Bus Bus LITEmania Warren Korea
Non-standard or Incorrect: JCR2-DD JCR2-1.3W JIL-Car JIL(Up) JIL-Lite-JCR2
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Dawg
Enlightened
Re: What about JIL?
I like it! I have saved a copy for later perusal.
I like it! I have saved a copy for later perusal.
Great work! The Jil series is one of my favorites and I have always wondered why they have gotten so little fanfare on CPF. They are very well built, have nice beams, and are tiny. With the Cab and Bus extensions, they are also very versatile. The Intelli may just be the optimum EDC with its adjustable light output and small size.
We do need some runtime charts for all the Jil lights. I think TIN did a few for the DD and the 1.3, but none have been done with the Intelli as far as I know. If I ever get set up to do runtimes, I will post the results.
I am looking forward to the new and revised versions that Warren has hinted at. I hope they become a reality.
Thanks again for compiling such a comprehensive collection of information on the Jil series. :goodjob:
We do need some runtime charts for all the Jil lights. I think TIN did a few for the DD and the 1.3, but none have been done with the Intelli as far as I know. If I ever get set up to do runtimes, I will post the results.
I am looking forward to the new and revised versions that Warren has hinted at. I hope they become a reality.
Thanks again for compiling such a comprehensive collection of information on the Jil series. :goodjob:
Re: What about JIL?
Vortechs! You are the man!!!(or the woman, for all I know
)This is one of the single best posts I've ever seen on CPF.
I had the pleasure of meeting JIL's inventor last fall in Seoul and I know he has some good things planned. I'm guessing he has many demanding projects in front of him.
I have the 1.3 UP and love it. One of the best beams I've got and probably the best of any small light. Perfect color and combination of spot and flood. The flood is very smooth and bright and I do believe that's most useful in a tiny light.
However, it's now become stiff to turn. What's the best lube? If I buy Nyogel--which Nyogel type should I order?
vortechs said:
Vortechs! You are the man!!!(or the woman, for all I know
)This is one of the single best posts I've ever seen on CPF.I had the pleasure of meeting JIL's inventor last fall in Seoul and I know he has some good things planned. I'm guessing he has many demanding projects in front of him.
I have the 1.3 UP and love it. One of the best beams I've got and probably the best of any small light. Perfect color and combination of spot and flood. The flood is very smooth and bright and I do believe that's most useful in a tiny light.
However, it's now become stiff to turn. What's the best lube? If I buy Nyogel--which Nyogel type should I order?
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There is one thing I do worry about-Litemania is by far the biggest distributor of the fantastic JIL lights and has worked closely with the manufacturer. For whatever reason, despite the best intentions, Litemania has not been very reliable of late. He has apologized here, and things do come up in life, of course. But with the great reliability of JIL lights, and their superior quality, we really do need a fast and reliable distributution network. This needs to be said frankly and has proved to be a problem for many here over the last six months. This is not meant out of disrespect to Litemania but if JIL is to thrive, it has to have a reliable sales and distribution network, just like any quality product.
Dogliness
Enlightened
Vortechs, since you asked for suggestions, I will give a few. I think additional information in the following areas would be nice: length, weight and diameter of each version of the flashlight; runtime; body material and anodization; how tough and scratch resistant the lights actually are in practice; beam type (flood versus throw); and possibly a short discussion of TWOJ and TWOH. Everything I have read is that rechargeable batteries should not be used in the Jil 1.3 (I certainly do not want to test it). Consider so stating more definitively.
Some of the above information is included in reviews of the Jil 1.3 Up and Jil DD at http://www.cones-stuff.co.uk/ . I suggest a link to those reviews as well. [I just edited this post to add this, since I noted you already referred readers to the link].
I join in the chorus that the Jil is a terrific flashlight that doe not get its share of attention and praise, and that you have done great work on your article on the Jil.
Some of the above information is included in reviews of the Jil 1.3 Up and Jil DD at http://www.cones-stuff.co.uk/ . I suggest a link to those reviews as well. [I just edited this post to add this, since I noted you already referred readers to the link].
I join in the chorus that the Jil is a terrific flashlight that doe not get its share of attention and praise, and that you have done great work on your article on the Jil.
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Perfectionist
Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2004
- Messages
- 676
Wow !! Superb post !! Should be permanently stuck somewhere for all to see
I LOVE my Jil ..... a new and improved version is gonna force me into marrying it ..... watch out for me on Jerry Springer
What are the improvements they are planning on doing ..... would it be posssible to make additional requests ??
I mean if they could somehow add the option of embedded Tritium on the head of the light ..... I wouldn't complain !!
I LOVE my Jil ..... a new and improved version is gonna force me into marrying it ..... watch out for me on Jerry Springer
What are the improvements they are planning on doing ..... would it be posssible to make additional requests ??
I mean if they could somehow add the option of embedded Tritium on the head of the light ..... I wouldn't complain !!
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Outdoors Fanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Dawg said:
www.lighthound.com still have them for a good price. Check it out. The Jil 1.3w up will be my next EDC.
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
The JIL CR2 is the best keychain light. A durable finish (even the supposed great ARC-AAA wore out in months), small small size and amazing output makes it wonderful to carry around. Of course when you need a real light, I'd have my U2 or something alike =P
I'm really anxious to see the fruits of the upgraded JIL CR2 light...
I'm really anxious to see the fruits of the upgraded JIL CR2 light...
Dawg
Enlightened
They have been out of stock as long as I have been a CPF'er. That was one of the first places I checked, and I check back regularly.Outdoors Fanatic said:
Trashman
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've got one of the TWOH's, and it's a keeper. I bought in on the first run of 1.3w UPs and loved it, so when I saw the TWOH model offered, I sold the first one and bought it. The TWOH model is quite a bit brighter than the original one I had and the beam is whiter (the first one (UP) had a slight hint of blue). I keep it on my keychain, so it's with me at all times. The TWOJ model, for those interested, was made with the idea for it to be capable of being run with rechargeables. In fact, it was my search for the Jil that brought me to CPF in the first place! I found Warren's (Litemania's) website and his email address and had asked him how I could get one of these lights (Jilite, who I tried contacting first, wouldn't accept mail from my address, it may have been Korean only, or just not accepting from a Yahoo sender) and if he shipped to the U.S. and he linked me to his CPF sales thread--I've been here ever since.
All in all, I don't think you can go wrong with a Jil. The one I have is easily one of my favorites and is of the 2 or 3 that I most use.
All in all, I don't think you can go wrong with a Jil. The one I have is easily one of my favorites and is of the 2 or 3 that I most use.
tvodrd
*Flashaholic* ,
I have the 1.3W (UP) TWOH and the DD (UP) TWOH, and the latter isn't too much larger than my avatar. The reflectors, while having a decent profile, appear to be electroless nickel. That's costing a lot of photons out the front. Hopefully, they will correct that.
Larry
The reflectors, while having a decent profile, appear to be electroless nickel. That's costing a lot of photons out the front. Hopefully, they will correct that. Larry
Vortechs, a REALLY great post :goodjob: . As a newbie, it addresses a lot of the frustration that I have/had trying to find info about the JIL-CR2. It also addresses and answers some of the frustration that I have when using the CPF search function. 
Any speculation about what the newest JIL-CR2 will have?
Any speculation about what the newest JIL-CR2 will have?
vortecs,
Good Post. Just one question. I don't have a Jil (yet) but I do have a headlamp running a micropuck and a 1w Lux and it works OK on just one AA battery. Not super bright or anything but brighter than direct drive on 2 AA alkaline and it runs for a long time. Are you sure this combo won't work?
Good Post. Just one question. I don't have a Jil (yet) but I do have a headlamp running a micropuck and a 1w Lux and it works OK on just one AA battery. Not super bright or anything but brighter than direct drive on 2 AA alkaline and it runs for a long time. Are you sure this combo won't work?
Great info Vortechs.
While I don't want to turn this into a Arc Vs Jil thread, my Jil 1.3 has been relegated to a drawer on account of runtime and battery type. The Jil is absolutely the best bang for the buck in a quality Cr2 light available (Peak pacific may be a contender as well) but many who experience the new nichias in action may prefer the Arc as EDC keychain light. I personally find the Arc to be much less obtrusive on a keychain than the jil and while the beam tint and brightness is clearly superior to the Arc, in practice I've found that there is a heavy price to pay in terms of keeping it fed. Visually and in practice, I found that the jil isn't so much brighter that it's usefullness is much greater than the Arc.
As for the finish on the Arc, it's excellent and I've chipped up the Jil as well, the main difference is that on any gnurled light there will be a greater tendency to lose ano than on a smooth light. Tint on the new nichias is greatly improved as well, while not luxeon quality, those who complain of "angry blue beams" tend to be apeing old posts about old nichias.
Clearly neither light is for everyone, nor is any light. The merits of each should be objectively explored if a trully useful tool that meets our need is to be discerned.
What would be nice , though, is if Jil expanded their repetoire and included a version that can run on a variety of battery chemistries.
While I don't want to turn this into a Arc Vs Jil thread, my Jil 1.3 has been relegated to a drawer on account of runtime and battery type. The Jil is absolutely the best bang for the buck in a quality Cr2 light available (Peak pacific may be a contender as well) but many who experience the new nichias in action may prefer the Arc as EDC keychain light. I personally find the Arc to be much less obtrusive on a keychain than the jil and while the beam tint and brightness is clearly superior to the Arc, in practice I've found that there is a heavy price to pay in terms of keeping it fed. Visually and in practice, I found that the jil isn't so much brighter that it's usefullness is much greater than the Arc.
As for the finish on the Arc, it's excellent and I've chipped up the Jil as well, the main difference is that on any gnurled light there will be a greater tendency to lose ano than on a smooth light. Tint on the new nichias is greatly improved as well, while not luxeon quality, those who complain of "angry blue beams" tend to be apeing old posts about old nichias.
Clearly neither light is for everyone, nor is any light. The merits of each should be objectively explored if a trully useful tool that meets our need is to be discerned.
What would be nice , though, is if Jil expanded their repetoire and included a version that can run on a variety of battery chemistries.
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Planterz
Flashlight Enthusiast
The Jil 1.3W is, as I see it, the ugly duckling of the group. It's longer than I would want to carry on a keychain, and the cost of batteries is a bit of a bummer. You get about 1:10 of good brightness, and at about 1:30 it craps out and it's time for a new battery. It can't (or at least shouldn't) use lithium ion rechargables. IMO, the only thing a 1.3W is good for is with the BUS extension, which should give you very long runtime.
This leaves either the DD or the Intelli. A DD will last an almost ridiculous amount of time on a CR2 primary (20+ hours), and even if you buy Energizer CR2s, it's an inexpensive light to keep running. Even moreso if you feed it Batterystation or other bulk lithiums. The Intelli of course can take either primaries or lithium-ion RCR2s. Runtime on lower levels is very long, possibly matching (or beating) DD runtimes. On higher levels it's quite bright considering its size, especially on "burst". The disadvantage of using the Intelli as a low-level light is the flickering (from the PWM-Pulse Width Modulation "dimming") which might bug some people. The other difference of course is the cost.
This leaves either the DD or the Intelli. A DD will last an almost ridiculous amount of time on a CR2 primary (20+ hours), and even if you buy Energizer CR2s, it's an inexpensive light to keep running. Even moreso if you feed it Batterystation or other bulk lithiums. The Intelli of course can take either primaries or lithium-ion RCR2s. Runtime on lower levels is very long, possibly matching (or beating) DD runtimes. On higher levels it's quite bright considering its size, especially on "burst". The disadvantage of using the Intelli as a low-level light is the flickering (from the PWM-Pulse Width Modulation "dimming") which might bug some people. The other difference of course is the cost.
