What for you is the top non-negotiable when choosing an EDC light

[deranged_coder]

I have seen a few posts around where the poster says something along the lines of, "I don't care how many other features flashlight X has, if it does not have feature Y then it will never be carried by me," and I am curious what, for you, is a feature that is non-negotiable when you choose an EDC light.

Here are some of the possible things that I have thought of:

• Long runtime: If it cannot run all through the night without needing a battery change, then it is of no interest at all.
• High output: If it cannot blind someone who is foolish enough to stare into the business end of the light when it is turned on, then it is not interesting.
• Throw: If the flashlight cannot light up objects at a distance, then it will never make it into your EDC.
• Flood/spill: No narrow beams, please. If it rivals a laser in focus, then it will never be carried.
• Tailstand/candle mode: If, by itself, it cannot stand on its tail and be used as a candle, then it is not worth carrying.
• Battery size/type: Along the lines of, "I only use lights that run on AA batteries. If it runs on any other battery type, forget it".
• Can run on rechargeables: If it can only run on primaries, no way is it to be considered for EDC.
• Bling: When shown to others, people go, "Wow... so shiny..."
• Place of origin: If it is not made in XXX then forget it (no political commentaries, please).

If you have multiple non-negotiables, then please choose which one of those is most important for you.

It should be obvious but it bears mentioning that what is most important will differ with each individual so there is no right or wrong here. I am just curious if there will be anything even close to a consensus among the denizens of this forum as to what is considered to be a "non-negotiable" when selecting an EDC light.

For my own EDC use, I find that I need to have some sort of a flood beam or spill for me to EDC a light. If a light has no spill (such as the old Inova X1 with its "moonbeam") then I would never EDC it. This is also why I am so enamored with my Sundrop; of all the lights I have ever used it has the loveliest flood beam I have ever had the pleasure of beholding.

 

[kramer5150]

Re: What for you is a non-negotiable when choosing an EDC light

I've come to the realization that I really can get used to just about anything with enough training. Unless its grossly un-ergonomic or an extremely complicated UI. Even reverse clicky switches I find favorable when mode flipping.

My deal breakers-

-Reliability. The most important factor, bar none. If I see a lot of CPF failure threads, I look the other way. Even if the brand is warrantied and well backed by the retailer. I use my light at work and therefore it must be robust design and reliable.

-Efficiency. It absolutely must be efficient. If it only emits 10 Lumens then it better not guzzle the wattage. If its a wattage hog then it better be as floody and throwey as the sun. I have an XR-C energizer hard case 2AAA, it barely emits ~20 Lumens but draws 550 mah from NiMHs and only runs for ~75 minutes...:sick2:

-Primary CR123. If it only uses primary CR123, I tend to look the other way. I have too much $$$ invested in chargers and NiMH cells. 12x RCR123, 20x18650, 4x17670. Although some primary-only lights I find very tempting. The SF-E1L Outdoorsman, 45L/3L is such a GREAT all around light... IMHO.

-No hand-cranks or shake lights PLEASE

-Cost.... duh, if I cant afford it I don't consider it. LOL

 

[2xTrinity]

For EDC lights, the following are non-negotiable:

Variable output with a LOW low option

Many times, I want a lot of light to find say a lost item on a beach or grass field. Other times, I want JUST enough light to see my way around without stumbling, but not so much that I wipe out my night vision. I generally won't buy a EDC if its dimming range isn't at LEAST 100:1. I prefer more like 1000:1

Direct access to minimum and maximum output, without "skipping modes"
This rules out lights like the L0D. If I want a low output to save my night vision, I don't want to have to pass eye-searing, maximum output (which wipes out my night vision during the instant it's on) to reach my setting. And no, twisting the light three times while blocking the light with my leg is not a an acceptable solution.

Lights like the Fenix L1D are great however. As multiple modes are reachable with the clicky, but no matter what, twisting the head back and forth will toggle between max and min settings.

Beam profile that is a nice tradeoff between throw and flood --
Reasonably bright hotspot, that gradually transitions from hotspot to spill. Narrow spill angle. Cree XR-Es behind deep textured reflectors tend to produce what I'm looking for.

I don't want all flood -- I want to be able to see something more than a couple meters in front of me if necessary. However, in the event that I DO want to see something up close, I don't want the spot to be so much brighter than the spill, that the glare from it causes my pupils to constrict, thus negating some of the effectiveness of the light for flood. This also goes along with my desire to preserve night vision in a "low low" mode. Even if overall output is a small fraction of a lumen, if it's focused into a "laser beam" that's still beam.

On the rare occasion that I do actually need lots of throw, I will get a separate light. Most "unplanned" applications of flashlights are things like looking behind computers, or looking for lost items on the ground, where a "narrow angle flood" light tends to be best suited.

Designed to run on rechargeables, in regulation, without overdischarging the cell

This rules out 2xCR123 lights that only have a buck converter, yet claim to work for 18650 cells. Those lights generally only stay in regulation when the 18650 cell is very fresh, then the buck driver tends to fall out of regulation.

Not overdischarging the cell is another good point. Lights that are boost, or buck-boost driven should be able to shut themselves off BEFORE draining themselves to the point where the cell sustains damage. Ideally I'd even like some advance warning of this (eg, the light could 'blink' when the cell is running low)

 

[Rob187]

None of the above: Reliability is the most important EDC charateristic.

 

[lctorana]

There is only one real non-negotaible / deal-breaker for me.

Single Mode.

As long as that is assured, I am happy to vary all the other factors.

 

[brighterisbetter]

Reliability is the most important EDC charateristic.

+1
Since that wasn't an option, I went with Battery Size/Type. I tend to use CR123 lights with only one exception (3x18650 M6R)

 

[Kiessling]

You forgot the most important factors: interface, interface and interface. And reliability.
bernie

 

[RobertM]

None of the above: Reliability is the most important EDC charateristic.

I agree completely! But since it wasn't an option, I went with battery size/type. My EDC must be primary 123's.

-Robert

 

[nerdgineer]

None of the above: Reliability is the most important EDC charateristic.

+ another one to Rob187.

Second factor would be compactness (no bigger than 1AA). Third factor would be battery efficiency (lumen hours for given AA or AAA battery type). Fourth would be cost/value.

Fifth, and first from your list, would be battery size/type (no more CR123 lights, only AA, AAA, and 18650s). Everything else is negotiable for me.

 

[elumen8]

+++ on reliability. I'd like to be confident my light will shine at the most critical moments.


Btw...Deranged_coder, thanks for letting me check out your Draco, I'll be a few bucks poorer because of it. I'm gonna buy one for my keychain along with my Nano light already attached.

-JB

 

[Alan_P]

Must fit on my keychain somehow, either directly or in a pouch. Othertwise it will not be with me all the time.

 

[Federal LG]

For me, "EDC" means: small and lightweight.

All the rest are the same that I look in other lights: good throw, nice construction, KISS UI.

 

[es2qy]

Reliable is tops for me. I voted for long run time from your list.

 

[deranged_coder]

When I was putting this poll together last night my mental list had "reliability" on there... goes to show how mushy my brain is at 12 midnight...

Hmmm... I think I'll have to do a redux on this poll sometime in the future to include "reliability", "size/form factor", "variable output" and "efficiency" to the list and see what the results are.

As far as UI goes, I think I'll do another poll as to what is the preferred UI by people for working a multi-mode light... :thinking:

Btw...Deranged_coder, thanks for letting me check out your Draco, I'll be a few bucks poorer because of it. I'm gonna buy one for my keychain along with my Nano light already attached.

-JB

You are most welcome. Glad to share what I can. The Draco is indeed a fine piece of work. I had the chrome one and I am now already thinking of getting a titanium one as a backup to it... or maybe get the titanium one and keep the chrome one as a backup... oh man, the itch is starting again...

 

[saabgoblin]

For the sake of argument, I threw up battery size but my main make or break factor of ease and flexibility of carry wasn't listed so I went with the battery option because in my experience I have found AAA+CR123A based lights to be the most user friendly carry options for my needs. Photons may be much smaller and easier to carry than most all lights, but I prefer carrying a metal light for potential durability issues.

 

[325addict]

Well, the one that matters MOST for me isn't in the list: SIZE, SIZE, and.... SIZE

Timmo.

 

[NeonLights]

For me it would be none of the above. For an EDC light, the most important characteristics are overall size (gotta be small), quality/reliability (gotta light up every time when I turn it on), and it has to have a simple switch, which for me is either a simple single stage twisty or a two stage switch like my SF L1 or A2.

 

[edc3]

Gives the poll choices, I picked "Can run on rechargeables". However, as previously stated, reliability is first and foremost. I've never really put a lot of thought into my EDC priorities (maybe I should have), but here they are, subject to revision:

1. Reliability.
2. UI - If I'm using it everyday, I'd better like it.
3. Size.
4. A low, low output setting.
5. Can run on rechargeables - I always have extra primaries, but I like to top off.
6. Long runtime - Even with extra cells this is important to me.
7. Flood/spill.
8. Throw.
9. High output - I guess this one depends on your opinion of what high output is.
10. Place of origin - All other things being equal, I'd buy domestically made, but it's not always easy.
11. Battery size/type - 123A first choice, but AA a close second.
12. Tailstand/candle mode. Don't really care much about this. I can improvise it.
13. Bling - It's a tool. If it looks good, it's a plus, but it doesn't really matter.

 

[danpass]

.............

• Long runtime: If it cannot run all through the night without needing a battery change, then it is of no interest at all.
• High output: If it cannot blind someone who is foolish enough to stare into the business end of the light when it is turned on, then it is not interesting.
• Throw: If the flashlight cannot light up objects at a distance, then it will never make it into your EDC.
• Flood/spill: No narrow beams, please. If it rivals a laser in focus, then it will never be carried.

........................

I EDC'd a Fenix L1P for several years. Now that I have an A2 that I EDC all of the above can be met and there is no need to settle again

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

Reliability is the most important and sort of encompasses many of those other choices and more. Reliability simply means that the light will work when you need it most, as long as you need it, under all conditions. This means that it can survive drops, is waterproof, works in cold or hot conditions, and stays bright enough for the task as long as you need it without dimming or going dead(this means it needs to be regulated and possibly have multiple levels). Using lithium batteries (at least as one of the battery options) is essential for a light to work in hot or cold conditions. The highest efficiency l.e.d.s allow for the best runtime and brightness possible so the light doesn't die or dim when needed the most. The switch has to be either a reverse clicky, a twisty, or a forward clicky that can be locked out to avoid accidental turn ons. All these things fall under the category of reliability and are non-negotiable.