What's the brightest drop-in for a G2???

Tessaiga

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Per title and where can I get it??

Do I run it on 2 X RCR-123A or a single 17670??

Any precautions when running this drop-in like the maximum run time at one go before it gets too hot to handle??

I will most probably not run my G2 for anything more than 5-7 mins.. FYI.
 
I've tried it with a Lumens Factory EO-9 and two of AW's R123As. This setup is apparantly over 200 lumens. I'm told that this causes a somewhat excessive drain on the batteries and could be unreliable/dangerous, but it sure is impressive !
 
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I didn't see specs for current draw with those Lumensfactory lamps, but with RCRs, the "safety limit" for current draw is 2C, which with the current crop of RCRs, is about 1.7 amps.

Primary CR123s can go up to 2.5 amps safely for the Surefire brand...
 
1.5 amps is more like the limit for RCR123s...
here's your options: I'll list rechargable, non-rechargable, 2 cell(stock) and 3 cell(with extenders) and then list approximate WATTAGE next to each configuration, wattage is going to be your biggest indicator of brightness on an incandecent LF lamps are generally a little more efficient than others, so give them the edge on brightness when comparing similar wattage setups, also take into consideration that higher Voltage bulbs from LF tend to be more efficient as well(9V lamp>3.7V lamp by a slight amount if wattage is the same, but battery configurations usually make better use of space with 3.7V lamps for extended runtimes)...

G2 without an extender on primary cells.
1A. stock P60: ~6W ~60 min
2A. P61: ~12.5W ~20 min
3A. LF ES-6: ~4W ~80 min
4A. LF SR-6: ~6W ~60 min
5A. LF HO-6: ~7.5W ~45 min
6A. LF EO-6: ~9.5W ~35 min

G2 with no extender with a 17670 rechargable.
1B. WE D26 3.7V: ~8W ~40 min
2B. G&P 3.7V: ~8W ~40 min
3B. LF HO-4: ~7W ~50 min
4B. LF EO-4: ~8.5W ~35 min

G2 with no extender and 2 of AWs RCR123 protected with high current PCB cells
1C. SF P90, G&P G90, LF SR-9: ~9W ~30 min
2C. Pathfinder P90 (oddball), WE D26 9V: ~10W ~30 min
3C. digilight 9V (non G&P version), LF ES-9: ~6.5W ~50 min
4C. LF HO-9: ~11.5W ~20 min

G2 with extender and either 3xCR123 or 2x17500 rechargables.
1D. SF P90, G&P G90, LF SR-9: ~9.5W ~60 min
2D. Pathfinder P90 (oddball), WE D26 9V: ~10.5W ~50 min
3D. digilight 9V (non G&P version), LF ES-9: ~6.5W ~80 min
4D. LF HO-9: ~12W ~40 min
*5D. LF EO-9: ~15W ~30 min
**6D. SF P91: ~19W ~20 min

*OPTION 5D IS LIKELY TO MELT STOCK LENS. DO NOT USE EO-9 WITH RCR123 SIZE CELLS, ONLY 17500S OR PRIMARIES.
** OPTION 6D WILL MELT STOCK LENS AND CAN ONLY BE USED WITH PRIMARY CELLS, 2 EXTENDERS, 2 17670s, AND LENS UPGRADE ARE REQUIRED TO RUN THE P91 ON RECHARGABLES.


There ya have it.

just choose a wattage/runtime and battery configuration that you like the balance of. Brightest isn't always best, also keep in mind that the SF P61 and P91 are floods, while most of the other lamps are more geared towards throw... An HO-9 will out-throw a P61 big time.
 
WOW!!!! THANKS a Bunch!!!!!
Am gonna print this one out and use it for reference...

Really appreciate you going through all this trouble!!!



Oh.. so sorry, forgot to mention that mine is a UCL lens...

Will it be better for me to order one of the G & P metal bezel to be used with some of the higher power bulbs instead of the nitrolon stock bezel? Will the metal bezel help?

anyone know if the G & P metal bezel (the one with the crenelations) uses glass or plastic lens??
 
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awesome compilation of data mdocod!! I searched for this information several times and there are a lot of threads with different configs which gets kinda confusing.
 
Keep in mind: despite how bright all these bulbs start out..they ALL dim and dim fast.Even a P61 only stays decently bright for 2-5 of those 20 mins.When I tested my 6P with a p61 it lost 50% of starting brightless in 5 mins.I think with the stock bulb it lost 25% in 5 mins.

A quality dropin LA like the Wolf Eyes, STAYS bright for 2+ hours on 123s.
 
thankyou all for all the kind words hehe... I too, was once digging from thread to thread trying to figure out what works and what doesn't...

Oh.. so sorry, forgot to mention that mine is a UCL lens...
That's great news, one less thing to worry about.

Will it be better for me to order one of the G & P metal bezel to be used with some of the higher power bulbs instead of the nitrolon stock bezel? Will the metal bezel help?
probably unnecessary, save your money towards the purchase of a WE body and 18mm cells if you really wan the ultimate in rechargable li-ion tactical.

anyone know if the G & P metal bezel (the one with the crenelations) uses glass or plastic lens??
I'm pretty sure they are glass, but get confirmation from an owner before quoting me on that.


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Keep in mind: despite how bright all these bulbs start out..they ALL dim and dim fast.Even a P61 only stays decently bright for 2-5 of those 20 mins.When I tested my 6P with a p61 it lost 50% of starting brightless in 5 mins.I think with the stock bulb it lost 25% in 5 mins.
this is a characteristic of CR123 cells, and is one of the huge advantages of the Li-Ion setups. Li-Ion does still get dimmer throughout the run, but it doesn't give you that minute of superbright that the CR123s do, it starts off at a pretty good level, and stays at a pretty good level through more of the run than CR123s do. The CR123s are actually harder on some bulbs because they are pushing so hard when fresh.

A quality dropin LA like the Wolf Eyes, STAYS bright for 2+ hours on 123s.
I assume you are talking about a cree LED drop-in? In which case, some of us just aren't willing to give up the color rendering, and depth perception that incan lighting is so great at. Turning on an LED always makes me feel like I am in some kinda video game looking at a screen, turn the incan on, and I'm back in reality. hehe... but you are right about the output/runtime, regulated LEDs win there.
 
actually... just put this together:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536
long read, but worth it if you have the time...

Generally speaking, Li-Ion cells will deliver a more steady output than primary cells, however, when using such small cells, like the RCR123s, driving powerful lamps (like the HO-9) you will get quite a bit of dimming throughout the run. But since it is rechargable, and since li-ion can be recharged any time, you can always just top em off after using it for a few minutes and go right back to starting output. Guilt free.

If you want long running steady output with less noticeable dimming at the begining, I would suggest slapping the extender on there, running a pair of 17500s, and a LF ES-9 lamp. This would be slightly(barely noticeable) brighter than the stock 6V lamp, but would run for well over an hour, there would be minimal dimming for the first 30 minutes.
 
great info in this thread. Thanks for putting the time and effort into it.

forgive my guestion as I've been out of the light scene for a little bit and am catching up slowly.
what does the short for for LF stand for in regards to those bulbs?

thanks.
 
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