What's your car EDC?

m4a1usr

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May 4, 2013
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884
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Washington State
Wow! Some of you guy's carry some spendy lights in your car. Since a car EDC is assumed to be a loss at some point (broken due to riding around, getting banged up and the worse. Easily stolen) I went with the cheapie UltraFire WF501 with the XML-T6 P60 and a Sanyo 2800mah.
To make the light a decent and trusty one all you need to do is unsolder the driver board and replace the wires with 20ga silicone. Then pry off the LED (which is glued in with RTV) clean the pill and reseat it with ArticSilver Aluminia adhesive. Put it all back together and then replace all the o-rings with red silicone seals.
Total cost about $17 with the battery. And if the light gets swiped? Well wouldn't be happy but its not like losing a $40 SF 6P. And with the 5 mode regulator you get many hours on the low setting should you be stuck longer than expected.

John
Oh yeah. Forgot to add the P60 needs to be wrapped in aluminum foil to get rid of the heat. Stuff it as full as you can get in there. Much better performance out of the Cree P60.
 

BillSWPA

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Dec 27, 2011
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Southwest PA
For years, I carried a 4D Maglight in my car.

More recently, I have started keeping older EDC lights that have been replaced for EDC purposes in my car. Having something powered by lithium primaries provides a maximized likelihood that it will work when I need it, and will not be ruined by leaking batteries.

If I were buying something specifically to keep in the car, I would select something decent but not too expensive due to the greater risk of loss or theft. I would also opt for something that favors runtime over output.
 

fresh eddie fresh

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Sep 15, 2010
Messages
984
Wow! Some of you guy's carry some spendy lights in your car. Since a car EDC is assumed to be a loss at some point (broken due to riding around, getting banged up and the worse. Easily stolen) I went with the cheapie UltraFire WF501 with the XML-T6 P60 and a Sanyo 2800mah.
To make the light a decent and trusty one all you need to do is unsolder the driver board and replace the wires with 20ga silicone. Then pry off the LED (which is glued in with RTV) clean the pill and reseat it with ArticSilver Aluminia adhesive. Put it all back together and then replace all the o-rings with red silicone seals.
Total cost about $17 with the battery. And if the light gets swiped? Well wouldn't be happy but its not like losing a $40 SF 6P. And with the 5 mode regulator you get many hours on the low setting should you be stuck longer than expected.

John

I used to carry Icon lights in my car, but I gave them all away to passengers who were light-less! My Outdoorsman was $80 on clearance from Eastern Mountain Sports a few years back, but was just collecting dust on my shelf, since I like my E1Bs so much more. I figured if I am storing the light, might as well store it in my car. In an emergency I figure it is best to have something really good quality instead of something I am not afraid to lose.
 

mhpreston

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Jun 9, 2013
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412
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Surrey, England
Phew! Lots of good points here and some of us must look like mobile Christmas trees! Joking aside, thanks to CPF I am thinking more carefully about function than ever before. The SRT 7 lives in the glove compartment 'cause its my brightest for reading house numbers in winter and I feel the coloured LEDs might come in handy. I've got a Olight on my key ring and SC52 in my work bag. We have to have hazard triangles and hi viz vests for European driving, but I notice our police have started using bright blue flashing LEDs atop small traffic cones. Very effective in the dark and rain. AFAIK you can't get road flares here but they sound like an important safety aid if you break down or need to warn other drivers about a hazard. I think the RAC LEDs might be a useful alternative and sensible addition to my car emergency kit. As someone mentioned, you've only got to come across an accident once to see the need for this sort of hazard lighting. We have a surprising number of people killed when their cars are hit from behind, even though they are on the 'hard shoulder' or breakdown lane.
 

Dr. Strangelove

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Oct 14, 2011
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The War Room
Quark Turbo QB2A Gen 2 and Rayovac Indestructible AA in the glovebox, all with L91s, plus four spare L91s in a Storacell battery holder. The Quark is the heavy lifter to provide high output and some throw if needed, the Indestructible is a backup and expendable light if I need to give a light to someone in an emergency. In the trunk emergency kit is a LED Lenser HL7 headlamp with L92s. Of course, these are in addition to my EDC of a Sunwayman V11R AA or Quark QTA Gen 2 and a Peak Eiger SS #8.
 

Polluxius

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Nov 16, 2011
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I have a FourSevens Quark x 1232 ​Tactical in the car door. Great Light! I always keep a couple batteries in the glovebox.
 

Poppy

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Dec 20, 2012
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Northern New Jersey
<snip> We have to have hazard triangles and hi viz vests for European driving, but I notice our police have started using bright blue flashing LEDs atop small traffic cones. Very effective in the dark and rain. AFAIK you can't get road flares here but they sound like an important safety aid if you break down or need to warn other drivers about a hazard. I think the RAC LEDs might be a useful alternative and sensible addition to my car emergency kit.

Chemical road flares are environmentally unfriendly, and LED road flares if raised 10 inches above the ground can be as effective without a negative environmental impact. It has been suggested that blinking LED road flares, if they are not linked together and co-ordinated, may cause confusion, and actually lead an oncoming driver in the wrong direction.

I commend you for your foresight, and concern, and the fact that you bought at least ONE LED road flare.

I also carry three reflective hazard triangles. They can be very effective!

Last year, on the way to drop our grandchildren off at school, we passed a gal broken down, at the end of a blind curve in the road. My wife suggested that I stop and try to help, on the way back. When we got there, a police officer was there on the scene, with his lights flashing, BUT he was also at the end of a blind curve! Someone could come barreling around that curve, only to become brutally aware that he was about to become a part of the police officer's trunk! I pulled behind the officer, put my flashers on, and ran down the road with my traffic baton in hand to warn traffic away. Fortunately, no one got hurt.

It's important that your first warning of danger is far enough away from the scene that oncoming traffic can see it with ample time to react. You might have to crest a hill, or turn the bend in a road. A single strobing flashlight may not be enough to make a scene safe.

If you are setting up those triangles set them up far enough away that the oncoming traffic actually has time to react.

I find it incredible how stupid so many drivers are, and that they will drive right up to the warning device before they change lanes. All the while they may be hiding it from the view of the driver behind them until they actually make the lane change. He then may not have the time to react, unless it was placed far enough away from the actual scene.
 
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mhpreston

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Jun 9, 2013
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Surrey, England
I'm with you 100% on this Poppy - that article you linked above was excellent btw. Agree about the possibility of causing confusion if they aren't used properly too. We are allowed to use yellow hazard lights in the UK and I am now thinking of the best way I can employ the RAC lights or better, something off the road surface, as part of my emergency kit. I plan to get two or three so I can space them out behind the incident. I notice the RAC lights are magnetic, but I think having them on the roof of the car might be a bit too late. These ones sell for £15 each but now I have a better idea of what is most effective, I'm going to shop around.
 

Lord Flashlight

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Dec 16, 2012
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UK, England
At the moment something called a JetFast. I got it for free so I don't mind leaving it in the glove compartment. It's rechargeable and has a load of cables that go with it in the pouch that allow you to charge other devices like phones and tablets from the battery. Top brightness is 200 lumens and it has two other other step down levels plus the usual strobe and SOS etc.
 

stienke

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Apr 28, 2008
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Netherlands
Fenix TK20 with Lithium AA 3V and a spacer , Maglite 5C with Malkoff drop in and batteries in a special box and not in the flashlight because they can leak and destroy the Mag
 

Monocrom

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Aug 27, 2006
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The main light, which sits in a pouch in my BOB in the trunk, is a 2AA Enercell model I got from RadioShack.

Bought it specifically due to it's AA set-up and side-switch. It was inexpensive. Surprisingly nicely constructed out of aluminum.
 
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