What's your Ideal UI in an EDC?

[Nitro]

I'm still waiting on the P2D, so I can't comment on it yet. However, if I had to design a UI, I'd want 3 levels.

Low for indoor, closeup.
Med for long running, candlemode.
High for outdoor, tactical.

I can do without the SOS and Strobe, but as long as they don't interfere with the other modes, why not have them for fun.

As far as the operation. I think the tight head for High, and loose head for Multi-Level is a good idea. Most of the time I'd use the multi-level mode in order to set it just enough to see, without blinding me. I'd use the High mode outside on walks etc.

I'm not sure how the P2D switch operates, but I would design it to have the 1st half press momentary on. Another half press changes levels, but still turns off when let go. A full press turns the light on. And when the light is on, a half press changes level.

 

[AndyTiedye]

Something like a McGizmo PD if it had infinite levels instead of 2
(and some way of getting into strobe mode, in which case it should vary the strobe rate instead).

 

[Rogerg]

Lo, Hi, Medium, fast/slow strobe and sos all fully programable as long as two or three choices are simple to access for quick use.
In time I think we will probably see more in this direction.

 

[Casual Flashlight User]

The UI on the HDS lights is perfect.


CFU

 

[Nitro]

The UI on the HDS lights is perfect.

I should know in a month or so, because I just pre-ordered the EDC-120P.

 

[jason9987]

I put the as many levels as possible but I think that 4 simple to get to levels are best if they are programmable like with the HDS/Novatac lights, I have a U60 and i dont think a UI could get much better, cant wait to get my NovaTac 120P and hopefully HDS will release their new light soon so I can get a true HDS EDC 120 built by Henry at HDS

 

[Casual Flashlight User]

I should know in a month or so, because I just pre-ordered the EDC-120P.

You and half the other denizens of CPF...:tinfoil:


CFU

 

[CostcoAAcells]

Simple On/Off is best for me.

I do like the idea of multi-level settings, but I hate the idea of stepping through the different settings with half presses of the On/Off switch. To me, the only thing the half press should do is allow momentary flashing for signaling. Reverse clickies are the worst.

I wish there were more lights out there that had dial knobs to select the different output modes. The Peak LED Solutions First Responder prototype has my full attention. If there will ever be a Cree version of the Surefire U2, I might jump at that.

 

[f22shift]

i like all the bells and whistles so i can adjust to what purpose i'm using it for. low light for close work, high for distance.

i really don't mind the sos and strobe but i can see how some ppl might find it annoying. for me it's not annoying because it's at the end of the sequence.

in an emergency i can use the strobe on my edc for biking if my main fails or runs out.
in an emergency sos would be nice so i'm glad it's there.
i love the different output level because you really can put out the most light that you can afford based on how long you need and how many batteries you are carrying.

i find the fenix easy to remember the run times (approx nimh)
high ,med, low
lodce
1, 3 , 6hrs
l2dce
2(turbo), 5, 12, 60(5x12)


i would prefer that a flashlight sequence with a high-med-low rather than a low to high because if i'm turning on for a quick look i would want the highest and if i'm looking for runtime than it wouldn't have to be immediate on the first click.

 

[OhMyGosh]

7 levels. Each one 1/3 the brightness of the next. This would give a 1000:1 dimming range. The lowest level would be for close use with dark adapted vision (reading). Next level would for dark adapted searching (looking for telescope eyepieces and dropped parts) Medium levels are to have the 'right' amount of light for the distance without killing night vision. Also for looking in things, and maximum run time. 2nd highest level would be the standard 350ma. Highest would be whatever the heatsinking could bear.

Also the on-off switch should be separate from the 'level' switch. It should also have a momentary switch.

 

[leukos]

HDS ultimate models are pretty easy to use and probably the best for the number of features offered. I also like the rather intuitive UI of the Photon Freedom keychain lights, very easy to use.

 

[tinkerer]

I like off -low -hi so long as the low is at level comfortable for close up work.

 

[paulr]

It's mostly about the controls, not the number of levels. All multi-click interfaces are from my point of view annoying. Something like the Spy 005 where there's six levels and you just turn a knob is great. Something like the McLux PD or Surefire A2 where you press gently for low and press harder for high is great. The Fenix lights where you have to click or twist repeatedly and the light starts flashing as if it's about to explode make the lights feel like toys.

 

[TORCH_BOY]

I like whats in the Fenix, Low, Med, High, SoS, Twist for Turbo, Strobe.
If I had to chose other it would be Low, Med, Hight

 

[GreySave]

I'd have to go with the U2. Different situations call for different needs. I like being able to start at either the high, low, or midrange area of the power scale and step up or down from there. I purchased a Huntlight Cree as a cheap alternative to a U2 and while the Huntlight is a very good light, the requirement to start at high power and then step through to the level you want via the reverse clicky just did not work for me.

 

[Uncle Bob]

GreySave makes an excellent point. I also would prefer the logic of the U2 for multiple light levels. Having the ability to chose your starting level is advantageous and less frustrating. You don't fumble through a series of annoying requirements to reach the level you want.

I usually use my hand-held lights in short bursts to get a quick view of something. That only requires a tap of a tactical switch or a twist depending on the light I'm using and I would prefer it to start at a preset level. Only occasionally do I keep the light on for minutes at a time. It depends if I'm in total darkness or if there is enough ambient illumination.

The only multiple level hand-held I have at this point is the UK 4AA eLED Zoom (hi-lo). I'm watching the development of the debate and hope the trend becomes more user-friendly before I buy that more expensive muti-level.

 

[Nitro]

Most of the time I like to start at Low, and click to go high, in order to save my night vision, or just not be blinded. However there's a few times when I want instant High.

After owning the P1D for a while, I grew not to like it, because it goes Med, High, Low etc. Not usefull to me at all. Then I saw a buddy who pulled out his P2D. Low and behold it does exactly what I want. One mode for Low/Med levels, and another mode for High.

I thought perfect, so I ordered one. The next day, guess what gets released, the HDS. The only reason I got the P1D was because I was tired of waiting for the HDS, and I needed something then. Go figure.

Needless to say I have the HDS comming also. The good news is, at least I have the P2D to use for a month before it gets here.

 

[2xTrinity]

Forward clicky for activation. A dial or twisty to switch between a very dim low, a bright but economical medium, and an all-out high level. Elegant, and sufficient for just about all my needs.

 

[Nitro]

Forward clicky for activation. A dial or twisty to switch between a very dim low, a bright but economical medium, and an all-out high level. Elegant, and sufficient for just about all my needs.

I'd prefer a forward clicky also, but I also prefer one hand operation. I twisty for brightness control makes that a little difficult.

 

[shooter08]

The perfect UI exists in a currently produced light. The Night Ops Gladius has momentary one
click counter clockwise is strobe next click is lock on dim. The lock on dim will dim down and brighten
back up without turning off the light. When you lock the light on it is its brightest press and hold it
starts to dim release wait press again and it will start to brighten up. You can go up and down in
brightness until the batteries die.

Dave S.