Which incan Surefire to replace my E2D?

[ninemm]

First, a story...

My E2D was the first SF I ever bought. I'd been wanting one for some time and got a great deal on it in the Marketplace. Loved the warm beam.

Well, I found that I wasn't carrying it as much as my other lights and I didn't want lights just sitting around unused so I listed for sale here and on another forum. I ended up withdrawing it from CPF, but it was left up on the other site. Someone offered a trade, which I turned down stating that I was looking for cash only. The very next morning the guy said he'd purchase it off me. I made a little profit, but over time I have missed the little guy.

Where you all come in! I'd like to pick up an incandescent Surefire to add, but I'm not sure which one to go after. Could anyone make a personal recommendation for their fave SF incan? I'd love to pick up an M4 maybe, but an Aviator seems like a neat light too. Let me know your thought!
lovecpf

 

[JCD]

Surefire C2 with 2x IMR16340 and Surefire P91 lamp assembly. It's incan, easily pocketable, very bright, and rechargeable!

 

[ninemm]

Surefire C2 with 2x IMR16340 and Surefire P91 lamp assembly. It's incan, easily pocketable, very bright, and rechargeable!

The C2's do like pretty pocketable. Do the IMR16340's fit without modification? Thanks for your suggestion!

 

[JCD]

The C2's do like pretty pocketable. Do the IMR16340's fit without modification? Thanks for your suggestion!

I'm almost certain they will. The AW IMR16340 cells fit in my 6P, C3, and E2D without modification, so they should fit in the C2 as well.

Fair warning: Runtime is only about ten minutes, so you'll want a P90, an LF ES-9, or similar lower output incan drop-in (or an LED drop-in) for times when runtime is critical.

 

[ninemm]

I'm almost certain they will. The AW IMR16340 cells fit in my 6P, C3, and E2D without modification, so they should fit in the C2 as well.

Fair warning: Runtime is only about ten minutes, so you'll want a P90, an LF ES-9, or similar lower output incan drop-in (or an LED drop-in) for times when runtime is critical.

Yah, I was looking on SF's website and couldn't find the P91 listed under lamps for the C2. Then, I found it and saw the runtime is 20mins with 3 cells in a C3 so I figured it would be about 10 mins. Thanks again!

 

[JCD]

Then, I found it and saw the runtime is 20mins with 3 cells in a C3 so I figured it would be about 10 mins. Thanks again!

But, they're ten beautiful minutes!

Edit to add: You might find this post informative.

Cell configuration: 2xIMR16340

…

Bulb Options:
LF D26 ES-9: 7W, 110 - 70 lumen in 37 minutes
LF D26 SR-9: 9W, 150 - 85 lumen in 25 minutes
LF D26 HO-9: 12W, 195 - 100 lumen in 19 minutes
LF D26 EO-9: 15W, 240 - 110 lumen in 15 minutes
SF P90: 9W, 145 - 80 lumen in 25 minutes
SF P91: 20W, 300 - 125 lumen in 10 minutes​

Happy hot wirin'!

 

[carrot]

IMHO a very suitable replacement for your E2D would be another E2D, or perhaps E2E. There are a few alternate lamps for those too.

 

[ninemm]

IMHO a very suitable replacement for your E2D would be another E2D, or perhaps E2E. There are a few alternate lamps for those too.

I know another E2D would fit the bill. But I think my better half would be pretty angry about selling a light and then buying the same one again so quickly. I can't blame her, I'm mad at myself too.

 

[carrot]

Well then go for the A2. You will find it an excellent EDC and the high-low ability really lengthens the life of your batteries.

 

[cm_mtb]

The C2's do like pretty pocketable. Do the IMR16340's fit without modification? Thanks for your suggestion!

You might also want to look into an E2e with the Lumens Factory IMR-E2 LA, also run on two IMR16340 cells. It is even more pocketable than the C2, and smaller than the E2D as well, since it doesn't have the strike bezel and tailcap. You do need the Z52 twisty tailcap, though, because the high current of the IMR setup will apparently melt a spring inside the standard clicky. You should be able to find one if you keep an eye on ebay and the marketplace... here is an auction on an older E2e ending tomorrow.

I've got a couple LED lights that are higher up on my to buy list, but I'm looking forward too trying this LA out.

beamshots: MN03 vs IMR-E2


That being said, what needs are you looking to fill with a new incan, or are you just looking for a cool new light?

 

[ninemm]

You might also want to look into an E2e with the Lumens Factory IMR-E2 LA, also run on two IMR16340 cells. It is even more pocketable than the C2, and smaller than the E2D as well, since it doesn't have the strike bezel and tailcap. You do need the Z52 twisty tailcap, though, because the high current of the IMR setup will apparently melt a spring inside the standard clicky. You should be able to find one if you keep an eye on ebay and the marketplace... here is an auction on an older E2e ending tomorrow.

I've got a couple LED lights that are higher up on my to buy list, but I'm looking forward too trying this LA out.

beamshots: MN03 vs IMR-E2


That being said, what needs are you looking to fill with a new incan, or are you just looking for a cool new light?

Thanks for your post. I was looking at LF bulbs for the E2D, so I'd definitely consider upgrading whatever light I get. Seems both you and Carrot recommend the E2e. I'm specifically looking for a SF Incan. Since the E2D was the only incan I had!

 

[Brigadier]

Another vote for the E2E. My EDC E2E runs the LF HO-E2R on IMR16430's. Sweet set up.

 

[Wetterman]

carrot is absolute right about the A2. The battery life is really extended because of the use of LEDs. Just watch out burning out the incan bulb with the regulators low incan mode. When the batteries don't have enough power to light up the bulb to the brightest just don't use the incan. I've wasted a couple hours used bulb just running it on the low mode. That sucks.

 

[NE450No2]

I would recommend the A2. Mine is my most used light, I have the white LED and the yellow green LED. The white is my EDC.

I relaced the factory bulb when it burned out with a LF HO A2.

The A2 is bright enough on High to handle all of the needs of a two 123A battery light.

On low the 3 LED's give all the light you want when you only need a "little".

Also, after the batteries are low, and the incandescent bulb will not "light" up the LED's well still glow for quite a while.

So if the incand. bulb burns out, or the batterys get low you still have the LED's.

 

[JCD]

My EDC E2E runs the LF HO-E2R on IMR16430's. Sweet set up.

I'm running the same cell/lamp setup in my E2D. It's nice.

Correction: I'm running the LF EO-E2R, not the HO-E2R. It's nice!

 

[ampdude]

E2e.

You might be underwhelmed by the incan output of the A2, especially considering it is a bit larger than the E2e.

 

[curtispdx]

E2e.

You might be underwhelmed by the incan output of the A2, especially considering it is a bit larger than the E2e.

I agree. I even replaced the stock bulb with one from Lumens Factory and was still disappointing. It's not a light I've regretted selling.

 

[JNewell]

I'll say A2. It's the ultimate 2x123 incan (IMO) and if you shop carefully can be found now at killer closeout pricing.

 

[Mikeg23]

I absolutely love my black E2E with Strion bulb and a single AW17670. I also ran it with a lumens factory EO-E1R and a single AW17670, but after burning out my second bulb I wanted something that I could replace easier.

The Lumens factory bulbs lasted a while but at the time I was using the light alot I would run one battery dead and then pop in a second battery every night at work.

The only concern is that some E series lights will take a 17670 while some need to be bored just a hair.

 

[WildChild]

Another vote for the A2. I have one with red LEDs and it's a very versatile light. Incandescent output is bright enough for most uses and the red LEDs are really usefull in complete darkness without killing your night vision. My favorite camping light.