Which will give better color rendition - HID or Solux Halogen?

Vermonter73

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I'm happy with LEDs for riding my bike at night most of the time. But when things get fast and technical, it'd be nice to have the best possible light source.

Right now I'm looking at either HID or MR-16 "Solux" bulbs. The Solux are supposed to give a full spectrum, with a color temp of 4700k.

Are there big differences between HID bulbs? I'd probably be using something on the lower end.
 
I want to see a solux in action... I tried asking them how they are making tungsten burn above 3600K without melting, they didn't have anything but a marketing hyped response for me... So if you decide to try them out, be weary of their claims.. My bet is that they have coatings on the bulb to "adjust" the spectrum at a loss of efficiency.

As for HID.... smaller lower powered stuff is mostly up around 6000K, which isn't actually ideal, but they tend to makeup for their sub-par output spectrum by having decent efficiency and tons of light out the front...

like... for example:
A 20W halogen might be good for 350 torch lumens of nicely balanced output rich in the lower end of the spectrum, which tends to work best for depth perception while in motion in outdoor environments..
A 20W HID might be good for about 900 torch lumens, so while it may lack in some of the spectrum, it's more than double the illumination, which may very likely overcome the advantages of the halogen.
 
Vermonter73,

I can't say which is better, but I can say that the solux MR-16 modules are fantastic. Very, very high quality of light. And, no, mdocod, they're not running the filament at 4,000K or anything. There is a dichroic coating on the reflector to let the IR and lower end red light back through the reflector, gradually increasing reflectivity as the wavelength shortens, in a way to change the natural output curve of the tungsten filament into something more like the curve of natural daylight. So, yes, as mdocod points out, there is some loss of efficiency,

BUT,

the light down there is pretty low lumens factor light anyway. This might need some explaining:

There are two systems of photometric units when it comes to light: physical, and sensory. The physical is typically measured in mili-watts. So you might have an LED rated in mW of light output per W of power input, for example, and this would hold good for an IR LED or a UV LED. However, obviously, the human eye is not equally sensitive to all frequencies of light radiation. And in fact, below a certain frequency, we do not see any light at all, but only feel heat radiation on our skin, and above a certain frequency we also do not see any light at all, but only get sun-burnt or irradiated. LOL!

It turns out that yellow-green light at a wavelength of about 555 nm is where the eye is most sensitive. At this frequency, by definition (probably to make some integral come out nicely), one watt of physical light output equals 673 lumens of sensory output. At about 610 nm (on the red side of things, in other words) that drops to half. So even for the same physical light power, for the same measurable light output, the eye is only half as sensitive, and thus the light output in human terms is half as much.

So, the point is that even though a large amount of light energy is indeed not reflected, not forward radiated out the front of the reflector, the percentage of lumens output lost isn't nearly as much as you might expect.

For example, I am using a 50 W solux halogen MR16 in my Polaris right now, and it is noticeably brighter, gives more output, than a Tiger11, which is about a 520 torch-lumens light. It should be, going by watts and 33 L/W and 65 percent loss figures, about a 1100 torch-lumens light. But, my guestimation is that it is about a 750-800 lumen light (about the same as a WA1185 on 9 cells). So this is a loss of about 25 percent of lumens output. The biggest problem for a highpowered portable solux light would be heat. All that IR and near-IR which is normally forward radiated now gets absorbed by whatever is behind the reflector, which is usually the head of the flashlight. This makes a 50 watt solux light, like the Polaris, heat up almost as fast (but not really) as something like a 100 watt USL using a normal reflector and a 100 watt Osram tunstgen halogen lamp.

Anyway, the upside is that the light from that lamp is the best light I have seen. It's like the pleasing whiteness of an LED beam, but with the color rendering ability and other pleasing features of an incan beam. Pretty amazing stuff, really.

In fact, it's so good that Digital Photography Now uses one of these dichroic solux lamps to illuminate their color chart when testing digital cameras!

Colour chart

Currently we use a Gretag Macbeth ColorChecker DC chart to evaluate digital camera colour quality. The target is lit using a custom-built daylight colour temperature lighting system. Special Solux tungsten halogen dichroic reflector lamps are used, over-driven by a custom-made DC power supply to generate an even 'hotter' colour temperature (which means a 'colder' white balance) than their 4700 Kelvin rating at 12V.

Special patented Solux dichroic lamps are designed to lose unwanted UV and infra red out the back of the lamp through the semi-reflective reflector. Combined with our over-drive power supply, the actual illumination on the test target is particularly close to natural sunlight, with a well-matched colour spectrum, especially compared to so-called fluorescent daylight lamps that exhibit spikes across the colour spectrum.

Our lighting rig means cameras can operate normally in auto white balance for the purposes of evaluating colour rendition under consistent and relatively authentic sunny day light illumination emulation, something that would be impossible with the fickle nature of the British weather!

However, as mdocod says, the greater efficiency of an HID might outweigh the improved color-rendering of a solux. I couldn't say, never having comared the two side by side. I'm guessing that I personally would still go for the solux, as I find HID light a bit harsh and glaring. But then again, I'm one of those wierdo hotwire guys. Go figure.

Anyway, good luck!
 
Sorry about being a bit off topic.

I am looking for a new bike light and these solux modules intrigued me.
However, I did a search but I didn't find anything.

Where could I buy a module or (the best option) an entire kit with everything one needs in it?
 
SoLux works on the same principle as ricer car headlamps. Incandescent lamps are naturally high in red-yellow range, so to make it whiter, filter removes the longer wavelength so the final output has a output balance that looks whiter and less total output.

For cars and motorcycles with "infinite" power, it's debatable.
For bicycles with very limited electrical power, there ain't no replacement for HIDs.
 
icantsee,

Thanks! You're most welcome.

gramanam,

Do a google on "Solux MR16" and you should get a number of choices, including Harrington Lights, and Bulbs.com, both of which I have used before. --I think. I think that the company I used to use changed its name to bulbs.com, but it's been a long time since I've had to order anything other than Welch Allyn lamps (and I just call WA for that).

Handlobraesing,

Yeah. I hear that. I'd understand someone going for a halogen incan over an HID, especially on a car. I mean, the low CCT relative to HID would actually be a plus in foggy conditions, and even otherwise, a good halogen incan beam is still plenty "white" enough for driving. And since you're already down significantly in efficiency from what an HID would give you, why lose even more to raise the CCT? Doesn't make sense for that application, in my opinion anyway.

If I were doing a bycicle light, I'd just use a regular tungsten halogen incan. Or an HID if I needed more light for a given runtime.

However, keep in mind that as you drop to 10 watts of power, incans are actually comparable to HID in efficiency. The issue is the efficiency of the ballast for the HID capsule. The lower the power, the more you lose in the ballast, so the total efficiency of the HID front end+ballast goes down as power goes down, to the point where below 10 watts it starts to make sense to use incan due to its superior CRI. Below 3 watts, LED's rule in terms of efficiency. So between 3 and 10 watts, incans still compete even in terms of efficiency--that is to say they aren't totally outclassed or anything, not that they would necessarily beat an HID or LED in terms of efficiency.
 

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