River Runner
Newly Enlightened
Okay, you guys convinced me I can do this mod!!! Photonfanatic just informed me that an SSC P4 is in the mail. Details in a week or so.
RR
RR
Why No Seoul or Cree Headlamps???
- Thread starter River Runner
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DaveNagy
Newly Enlightened
I've received my EOS, and I think I see how it opens. (Two black plastic pins protrude into the battery compartment. I'll have to break, drill, or melt them, I think.) I received my diffuser from Lighthound yesterday. I got my calipers today. (I always wanted some, so it was nice to have an excuse.) I also got the email from Fred, telling me that my P4 star, reflector, and heat conductive adhesive is shipping out today.
I love it when a plan comes together!
I think I'm gonna try attacking those plastic pins with my soldering iron. It's got a small chisel tip on it, so I'm hoping that I'll be able to melt a slot into each pin, and otherwise leave it semi-intact. Then, when I pry off the back of the unit, I'm hoping that the slots will squeeze closed, allowing the back to come off without breaking the pins. That all sounds highly unlikely, but I figure it's worth a shot. Worst case, I end up breaking the pins off "as usual".
Should I consider "test fitting" the reflector to the star in order to check the quality of the beam? Or should I just sand off 0.03 inches like ktronic says and hope for the best? Are the tolerances on both the reflectors and stars such that I can assume that the measurements will work out perfectly, or is there anything I can double check with my fancy new calipers?
I love it when a plan comes together!
I think I'm gonna try attacking those plastic pins with my soldering iron. It's got a small chisel tip on it, so I'm hoping that I'll be able to melt a slot into each pin, and otherwise leave it semi-intact. Then, when I pry off the back of the unit, I'm hoping that the slots will squeeze closed, allowing the back to come off without breaking the pins. That all sounds highly unlikely, but I figure it's worth a shot. Worst case, I end up breaking the pins off "as usual".
Should I consider "test fitting" the reflector to the star in order to check the quality of the beam? Or should I just sand off 0.03 inches like ktronic says and hope for the best? Are the tolerances on both the reflectors and stars such that I can assume that the measurements will work out perfectly, or is there anything I can double check with my fancy new calipers?
going back to the original question ("Why no powerled headlamps"):
I once got constant complatints while a tour at night for my headlamp mod being too bright, they could not see anything with theirs. Ended up to have that 2-cell Lux III Mod running at low level of ~100 mA to the emitter and it still was a lot brighter than the Tikkas around
(its all in the focusing)
But just wait a bit, by the end of this year at least, the prime makers will put some headlamps out
- too new, remember how long it took to get Luxeon-Headlamps
- mass headlamp market is backpackers/mountaineerers/climbers.
I once got constant complatints while a tour at night for my headlamp mod being too bright, they could not see anything with theirs. Ended up to have that 2-cell Lux III Mod running at low level of ~100 mA to the emitter and it still was a lot brighter than the Tikkas around
(its all in the focusing)
But just wait a bit, by the end of this year at least, the prime makers will put some headlamps out
PeLu
Flashlight Enthusiast
The Scurion uses two P4s.lasercrazy said:
I had a prototype in use for a month long caving expedition just now.
River Runner
Newly Enlightened
Okay, so I went out on a limb and purchased one of Photonfanatic's Seoul SSC P4 stars and some thermal paste and did the mod on my Myo XP this afternoon. I was shocked that even I didn't mess it up. Took me about 15 minutes and was relatively easy -- after I went down to Lowe's and found a set of tiny Torx drivers to fit the screws.
The light is significantly brighter than with the stock luxeon led. I haven't done any runtime tests, but am hopeful that it will last longer as well. I'm happy with the results.
Now I need to find a waterproof, regulated light to mod. Any suggestions?
RR
The light is significantly brighter than with the stock luxeon led. I haven't done any runtime tests, but am hopeful that it will last longer as well. I'm happy with the results.
Now I need to find a waterproof, regulated light to mod. Any suggestions?
RR
I just modded my own Myo XP with an USW0H P4 star. Fitted a 1mm copper plate as spacer under the star to make sure the "heatsink" would be in contact with the star.
My eyes tells me it is a little bit brighter, but hotspot is at least doubled in size. This is probably due to optics not matched to the P4 emitter.
Current consumption is the same compared to my wifes unmodded unit, except turbo mode is 0.1A less than stock. Lowest setting is in fact dimmer than stock, that may be due to different voltage efficiency.
My eyes tells me it is a little bit brighter, but hotspot is at least doubled in size. This is probably due to optics not matched to the P4 emitter.
Current consumption is the same compared to my wifes unmodded unit, except turbo mode is 0.1A less than stock. Lowest setting is in fact dimmer than stock, that may be due to different voltage efficiency.
porschefan
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2006
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- 9
What's the runtime look like on the modded EOS running a Seoul emitter?
wasBlinded
Flashlight Enthusiast
As a generalization, there should be no difference at any given level. That does depend of course on the Vf of the original LED vs the replacement.
I dont like the AAA batts and therefore got the streamlight Argo HP some time ago. imho the much better choice.
Just swapped emitter to a SSC star. Totally newbie mod, if You are able to do 4 solder points.
batt compartment modded for 18650 Li-Ion, the circuit draws 80 and 350 ma from the batt, giving some 20 and 6 hours of runtime. Very bright for a headlamp imho.
Beam already was not good in original state, but now is very ringy, as the floody reflector was built for the side emitter. Cut some 1 mm from the back to have it seat deeper on the emitter and the rings are now very concentrated.
As it is still a headlamp, it will remain like this, maybe will get modded with another reflector somewhen.
Just swapped emitter to a SSC star. Totally newbie mod, if You are able to do 4 solder points.
batt compartment modded for 18650 Li-Ion, the circuit draws 80 and 350 ma from the batt, giving some 20 and 6 hours of runtime. Very bright for a headlamp imho.
Beam already was not good in original state, but now is very ringy, as the floody reflector was built for the side emitter. Cut some 1 mm from the back to have it seat deeper on the emitter and the rings are now very concentrated.
As it is still a headlamp, it will remain like this, maybe will get modded with another reflector somewhen.
FoxFury has released its Pro III Tactical headlamp. It uses four 3 Watt CREE XR-E LEDs.
This headlamp will be 500 lumens (1/2 as bright as our MF 1000 Tac-Fire flashlight). It will also use CR123 batteries, making it lighter than our other Pro Models (which use C batteries).
http://foxfury.com/products/pro_series/tactical/tactical_3.html
This headlamp will be 500 lumens (1/2 as bright as our MF 1000 Tac-Fire flashlight). It will also use CR123 batteries, making it lighter than our other Pro Models (which use C batteries).
http://foxfury.com/products/pro_series/tactical/tactical_3.html
Art Vandelay
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2006
- Messages
- 1,550
That looks fantastic. Could you make a lightweight 1 CREE XR-E version that runs off 1 CR123 battery? Most of the time, if I am using a headlamp it is to free both hands so I can work with something right in front of me. Even one CREE XR-E can be too bright for that. Several levels of brightness would be ideal. Thanks.
FoxFury said:
Hi Art
I do not know if we can make a 1 Cree XRE version operating off of 1 CR123 battery but I will look into it. The Pro III Tactical is designed for activities and professions requiring a great deal of light like Caving and Arson Investigation.
The light has 6 modes with some varying degrees of brightness:
2 Outer, 2 Inner, 60% Intensity, 100% Intensity, Flashing (1 Hz) and SOS.
Hope that helps.
I do not know if we can make a 1 Cree XRE version operating off of 1 CR123 battery but I will look into it. The Pro III Tactical is designed for activities and professions requiring a great deal of light like Caving and Arson Investigation.
The light has 6 modes with some varying degrees of brightness:
2 Outer, 2 Inner, 60% Intensity, 100% Intensity, Flashing (1 Hz) and SOS.
Hope that helps.
lasercrazy said:
There are big differences between something that's interesting for a hobbyist or for low-volume niche products, and something that's usable in wider-scale manufacturing. And even in a niche, it's not practical to design for the LED du jour, when something new is always going to be coming out the next month.
But in the case of the StenLight, if you're serious, ask for a custom order through the company store. It'll cost you $35 extra for the customization fee and the cost delta on the LEDs, or you can supply your own.
We've made one for testing -- the SSC P4 is close enough to a Luxeon III that the beam pattern with the stock optics turns out pretty close to the same. The main difference you'll notice is a cooler color temperature. It won't sustain 1A as well as a Luxeon III -- you either need a lower temperature limit, or to stick to 700mA on Turbo. I'd recommend the latter. The result is not any brighter, but it does consume perhaps 30% less power for roughly the same brightness. That might sound like a lot to you, but we've made bigger improvements than that with gradual tweaks to the circuitry and LEDs, just within the Luxeon III line, since the first S7 headlamps produced.
One more caveat -- the P4 is not nearly as well electrically protected as the Luxeon III. This might translate into less reliability, though it should be pretty safe inside the StenLight circuit (where it's both current and temperature regulated).
As for the CREEs, we've experimented with them, but unlike the SSCs they are completely incompatible with Luxeon IIIs, both optically and physically. For that matter getting a good beam pattern out of an XR-E is a major challenge even with a complete redesign.
Is this the first cree headlamp on the market?
http://powerlong.en.alibaba.com/pro...p/5_Watt_American_Cree_LED_Bulb_Headlamp.html
Not exactly what I'm looking for, but maybe someone else here may have tried it. I thought foursevens had a line on a new cree based headlamp, any new information about it? I've been purposely holding off on any more purchases until something new and exciting comes out, but it's been hard. I think I may be going in to withdrawl, need to buy something, anything.
http://powerlong.en.alibaba.com/pro...p/5_Watt_American_Cree_LED_Bulb_Headlamp.html
Not exactly what I'm looking for, but maybe someone else here may have tried it. I thought foursevens had a line on a new cree based headlamp, any new information about it? I've been purposely holding off on any more purchases until something new and exciting comes out, but it's been hard. I think I may be going in to withdrawl, need to buy something, anything.
I do not know if we can make a 1 Cree XRE version operating off of 1 CR123 battery but I will look into it. The Pro III Tactical is designed for activities and professions requiring a great deal of light like Caving and Arson Investigation.
My requirements are the opposite of needing a 1 cell version of the Pro III. I am looking for a high power LED headlamp for night fishing. The sort of runtime I need is to run continously say on 50% power for 8-10 hours with about 2 hours on full power in that time. Currently I use a Yukon HL but there is not enough range on the beam to see fish being landed on the rocks or from a pier.
In the UK, CR123 batteries are not common and expensive.
Are there any plans to offer the ProIII with the option of rechargeable AA or C cells?
Thanks.
My requirements are the opposite of needing a 1 cell version of the Pro III. I am looking for a high power LED headlamp for night fishing. The sort of runtime I need is to run continously say on 50% power for 8-10 hours with about 2 hours on full power in that time. Currently I use a Yukon HL but there is not enough range on the beam to see fish being landed on the rocks or from a pier.
In the UK, CR123 batteries are not common and expensive.
Are there any plans to offer the ProIII with the option of rechargeable AA or C cells?
Thanks.
Hi Colina
Our standard Pro version uses 4 C batteries though it is no where near as bright as the Pro III.
I do not believe we will be offering the Pro III with the option of AA or C batteries anytime soon--we may re-evaluate this at some point in the future.
FYI, we have just added a Pro III Bike Version as well. http://foxfury.com/products/pro_series/bike/bike_3watt.htm
In terms of finding CR123 batteries, Battery Station (http://www.batterystation.com/cr123a.htm) has them for a good deal. It looks like their European distributor is http://www.miracle-store.de/ in Germany. Some other CPFrs may be able to recommend a better place.
I hope this helps.
Our standard Pro version uses 4 C batteries though it is no where near as bright as the Pro III.
I do not believe we will be offering the Pro III with the option of AA or C batteries anytime soon--we may re-evaluate this at some point in the future.
FYI, we have just added a Pro III Bike Version as well. http://foxfury.com/products/pro_series/bike/bike_3watt.htm
In terms of finding CR123 batteries, Battery Station (http://www.batterystation.com/cr123a.htm) has them for a good deal. It looks like their European distributor is http://www.miracle-store.de/ in Germany. Some other CPFrs may be able to recommend a better place.
I hope this helps.
