Why Three AAAs?

[Dogmeat]

Unlike many of you, I have no electrical background. I have been looking for a headlamp and am mostly looking for one that uses AA batteries. Every other piece of electronic equiptment I normally carry with me when I travel either has a recharagable battery (laptop, digital camera) or else uses AAs - camera flash, handheld flashlight.

I have also noticed that when traveling internationally, AAAs are harder to find. So, needling to carry only AAs would be a big help.

So, why do so many of the really nice headlamps run on three AAAs? It doesn'r seem like two AA take up much more room and would give something close to the same power. Is there some reason for this?

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Because it's easier, unfortunately.

As for AA headlights, there's the PT Apex, the BD Zenix IQ, and the Zebralight H50, to name a few.

 

[LEDninja]

1AA or 2AA need a boost circuit to power up LEDs (3.6V). $$$$.
3AAA don't.
Damm accountants working for the flashlight manufacturers.

3 or 4AA too heavy.

 

[hopkins]

3.6volts....forward voltage -plus- of leds to make em fire.
physics of the silicon doped chip emitter...don't argue
just accept it.:scowl::scowl::scowl:

 

[TorchBoy]

:welcome:

AAA cells are reasonably common and make for a small and light weight self-contained package, with no cable to the back of the headlamp needed. As LEDninja said, the accountants have too tight a hold on manufacturing decisions. Front heavy all-in-one AA headlamps won't sell very well, and those with a back mounted battery pack are more costly to make.

For longer runtime on caving trips I recently made a plug-in external AA pack for my latest modded AAA headlamp (which I should really post about), but it's not something I want to wear out of a cave - the light weight of the 3xAAA is fine the rest of the time.

 

[mvanmeter]

the availability of batteries was one reason I selected the Pelican 2630 headlamp for use on my hard-hat. The separate AA battery box on the back just helps balance out the weight of the light unit on the front. Long run times and multiple light output levels - it works great.

 

[CM]

You can direct drive even without a resistor using AAA's since they are relatively anemic in their ability to supply current. That makes the light cheap. Plus they're lightweight, smaller etc. The problem with dd is that you would always be wanting to get that initial brightness when the cells are new since the output drops like a ton of bricks as you deplete the cells.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

what annoys me most about 3AAA lights is having to mess with constantly popping batteries in and out of the carriers. I tend to use the headlamps that have no cartridges just for that reason as the time saved swapping batteries. The cartridge thing is good if you happen to have spare ones for quick swaps, someone needs a better design... maybe spring loaded with a release lock.

 

[RGB_LED]

1AA or 2AA need a boost circuit to power up LEDs (3.6V). $$$$.
3AAA don't.
Damm accountants working for the flashlight manufacturers.
3 or 4AA too heavy.

Yeah, I think you're right about the accountants...

I guess they're the reason why Zebralight can make an excellent 1AA headlamp with great runtimes, multi-levels for a decent price - but we see cheaper P3tzl's with 3AAA. I'm not knocking the P3tzl's as they are inexpensive and the light is fairly useful for its intended purpose but I would rather pay a bit more and get the 1AA Zebralight. But I guess I'm a flashoholic so I'd be more willing to pay more for it, whereas the general population may balk at the price.

Speaking of which, if we have 1AA that can use a boost circuit to power a Q5, why wouldn't we see 2AA in a similar light? I wouldn't think that 2AA's would add that much more weight to a light, even if the battery component is integral to the light instead of in a separate holder on the back of the head. Just wondering out loud...

 

[RGB_LED]

what annoys me most about 3AAA lights is having to mess with constantly popping batteries in and out of the carriers. I tend to use the headlamps that have no cartridges just for that reason as the time saved swapping batteries. The cartridge thing is good if you happen to have spare ones for quick swaps, someone needs a better design... maybe spring loaded with a release lock.

+1. Plus, the small size of the AAA makes it extra annoying. I even hate changing the AAA's from my remotes at home.

 

[Dogmeat]

I have looked at the Zebralight, but the H50 is too much of a spotlight (I'd like something a little more on the flood side) and while the H30 looks like what I'm after, it doesn't use a AA and seems riddled with problems.

If I'm going to spend $50 on a flashlight, I'd like it to work.

I may break down and get a AAA light. REI has the Petzl Tikka XP for $35, less a 20% sale + $28. That's not bad and it seems to get good reviews.

Because it's easier, unfortunately.

As for AA headlights, there's the PT Apex, the BD Zenix IQ, and the Zebralight H50, to name a few.

 

[Illum]

its easier for companies that makes lights that buck down the voltage using a resistor than to make a dedicated driver board that will boost 3V coming from 2 cells to something workable for the LED...considering the low price tag on boost drivers there really shouldn't be any excuse companies are still using 3AAA in ANY light

 

[degarb]

So far, I have modded out almost all my lights to 3 AA--one cell in front of center strap and 2 on rear, seems to be best. 3 AAA have about 3.5 watt hours and 3 AA can have as high as 10. Worth it if you use your light for more than 4 hours a stretch. A light with longer runtime means, more every day use because there are more things for which you can use it. Shortruntime means you might use the light once every few months, that is, if you can remember where it is located and batteries not dead.

My recipe: Need hotglue gun,solder iron and flux solder, Radio shack 2 AA holder, Radio shack 1 AA holder, some insulated wires, and some screws, possibly some velcro, possibly some elastic (walmart), possibly alligator clips.. Main design is one cell near front of center strap and 2 on very rear (pad part touching head), a . You will need to tap the + and - via your creativity. On several lights I use screws drilled into neck to tap the terminals, on others I just solder into terminals of battery pack, on one other opened up and soldered into.

 

[degarb]

I might add that you think there are alot of great AAA headlamps, but just about all you buy locally are old outdated 40 lumen per watt lux 1s, 50 lumen per watt k2s, or worst 20 lumen per watt lux5s or lux3. But currently, I know only about 6 or 7 use a half way modern led at over 40 lumen per watt. You have the 3 AA Energizer 100 lumen 1 watt hardcase (not sold in stores). Then Browning 1 watt Phantom 70, in a ergonomic friendly 1 AA format (modded mine for 2 AA in rear-caution to use only well insulated cell in modded light). The sunglass bright, Browning 135 lumen rebel 100 1 watt Cr123 (easy mod to 3 AA) (likely 1.5 watt or .5 watt on low at 60-70 lumens). A colman 70 lumen stupid cr2 lion. And zebralight ergonomic AA lights, with little optics for throw but lots of flood.

Of course you can drop heat sinks in, a updated star, and new reflectors to bump up outdated lights.

 

[degarb]

Yes, the Petzl myo xp, of 2008. 3 AA.

 

[LukeA]

I have looked at the Zebralight, but the H50 is too much of a spotlight (I'd like something a little more on the flood side) and while the H30 looks like what I'm after, it doesn't use a AA and seems riddled with problems.

If I'm going to spend $50 on a flashlight, I'd like it to work.

I may break down and get a AAA light. REI has the Petzl Tikka XP for $35, less a 20% sale + $28. That's not bad and it seems to get good reviews.

Are you kidding about the spot? Zebralights have a bare Cree with no optic or reflector. It's as floody as a light can possibly get.

 

[HKJ]

I have looked at the Zebralight, but the H50 is too much of a spotlight (I'd like something a little more on the flood side) and while the H30 looks like what I'm after, it doesn't use a AA and seems riddled with problems.

?

The Zebralight H50 is one of the headlights with most flood and a very nice flood for that, no rings just a uniform brightness.

 

[Dogmeat]

You are both right. I had the H50 and H30 reversed in my mind. Perhaps I'll look at the H50 again. Any suggestions between the Q5 and the P4 models?

 

[HKJ]

You are both right. I had the H50 and H30 reversed in my mind. Perhaps I'll look at the H50 again. Any suggestions between the Q5 and the P4 models?

I have not seen a H30 yet, so I do not known how it is compare to the H50.

I will suggest getting the brightest, i.e. the Q5, they have the same runtime, but your get a bit more light.

 

[TorchBoy]

You can direct drive even without a resistor using AAA's since they are relatively anemic in their ability to supply current.

I would say the Vf of the LEDs used is more the issue, but I suppose it amounts to the same thing.

The cartridge thing is good if you happen to have spare ones for quick swaps

My cartridges have two spring terminals on the same end, which is a bit of a worry for carrying around. Some sort of capped plastic tube as a carry case...