Wiring P7??
- Thread starter atvman29
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(the DX site is somehow down/bad atm)
seems that is a driver for driving single die led.
So You might use three of these drivers in parallel for ONE P7 to drive it a max,
dunno (and dont dare to advise) if that could power three P7 that are wired in series
(but imho not: it might not work with series connected led, and if it does, the voltage drop from 12 V system is not enough)
seems that is a driver for driving single die led.
So You might use three of these drivers in parallel for ONE P7 to drive it a max,
dunno (and dont dare to advise) if that could power three P7 that are wired in series
(but imho not: it might not work with series connected led, and if it does, the voltage drop from 12 V system is not enough)
I'm only looking to power 1 P7, so do I put the 3 driver that are in parallel in series with the LED, or in parallel with the LED so all 4 components are in parallel? Are you following me?
Fulgeo
Enlightened
Here's an illustration, is it A, B, or neither? My guess is B because with A, the LED would have 12V across its terminals, but I want to make sure so I don't ruin the $15 LED!
I would shout "Use Illustration B"! Illustration "A" will either fry your P7 or drivers or both. I have no practical experience with this circuit board but I would say the following. It is going to be generating some heat if you drive it with 12 volts. I would also think at 12 volts it will not be very efficient. After looking at a picture of the circuit board I see it has what looks like a Schottky diode which leads me to believe you do not have to worry about any reverse feed issues from the illustration "B" set up. Go B!
Al Combs
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
- Messages
- 872
I think neither diagram A or B are correct. The black and the red wires in the picture of your DX driver link both go to the LED. The three black wires from your three drivers get twisted together and go to the cathode of 1 LED. That's the pair of legs on the side of the LED with a hole in one of them. The three red leads get twisted together and go to the other side of the LED. The battery gets hooked up on the other side of the driver boards. The smaller gold disk in the center is battery positive. The outer gold ring is battery negative. Just solder a pair of wires onto them. So each driver has four wires, not two.
Like yellow said, I have no idea if this is actually going to work. There are a couple of threads on DX's forum about this question regarding your driver. No definitive answer though. There were a few posts mentioning that by the time you have enough voltage to drive a single LED to full power, the driver generates quite a bit of heat. Ecotack in your original thread said he had some of this particular DX driver on order at the time of his post. Maybe you could PM him and ask if he ever paralleled them and what results he had.
Speaking of that post, I can't believe with all the mention of MaxFlex, that nobody mentioned the real P7 drivers TaskLED sells. The hipFlex is an awesome driver. There is a graph towards the bottom of that link showing 3 P7's running on just one driver @ 93% efficiency. You might also want to look at the hipCC, the Shark Buck and Der Wichtel's new driver. Any of these drivers will handle 3 P7's instead of the 9 DX drivers it will take. That's assuming of course it actually works.
Good Luck :wave:
Like yellow said, I have no idea if this is actually going to work. There are a couple of threads on DX's forum about this question regarding your driver. No definitive answer though. There were a few posts mentioning that by the time you have enough voltage to drive a single LED to full power, the driver generates quite a bit of heat. Ecotack in your original thread said he had some of this particular DX driver on order at the time of his post. Maybe you could PM him and ask if he ever paralleled them and what results he had.
Speaking of that post, I can't believe with all the mention of MaxFlex, that nobody mentioned the real P7 drivers TaskLED sells. The hipFlex is an awesome driver. There is a graph towards the bottom of that link showing 3 P7's running on just one driver @ 93% efficiency. You might also want to look at the hipCC, the Shark Buck and Der Wichtel's new driver. Any of these drivers will handle 3 P7's instead of the 9 DX drivers it will take. That's assuming of course it actually works.
Good Luck :wave:
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Wow, I was way off! Thanks for this! I'm looking forward to giving it a shot tomorrow and I'll let everyone know how it works.
Of those drivers you posted, would any of them work with a 12V ATV system, or just handheld class batteries?
Aircraft800
Flashlight Enthusiast
You are Far Better Off using a quality buck driver designed for your purpose such as the hipCC Buck LED driver
It is single sided with mounting holes, you can screw it down to any metal surface to heatsink it, and can run 5 P7 LED's if you want. No stupid modes or flashing, just pure power. IF you need modes, look at George's other buck drivers.
Save yourself a headache and aggravation and spend the $24
It is single sided with mounting holes, you can screw it down to any metal surface to heatsink it, and can run 5 P7 LED's if you want. No stupid modes or flashing, just pure power. IF you need modes, look at George's other buck drivers.
Save yourself a headache and aggravation and spend the $24
