Zebralight is going to come out with flashlights! part 2

[mxrider32]

Thanks for the tip uplite. Looks much better.

 

[qtaco]

Hot photo tip: Install Picasa and use the "fill light" slider to improve the "exposure" of a point & shoot.

Here is a copy of that same picture with fill light around 75%, and color temperature around 30%:

The only thing wrong with the original is the colour balance due to the artificial lighting, your version looks washed out to me.

Anyway I'm still waiting to see some pics of the H51. Hopefully we'll get a more concrete ETA soon.

 

[uplite]

The only thing wrong with the original is the colour balance due to the artificial lighting, your version looks washed out to me.

No, it's primarily an exposure issue, and secondarily color balance. I bumped the fill light higher than I normally would for contrast to the original. There is only so much that a filter can do to fix a picture that was underexposed in the first place. But it's one of the best 5-second fixes I know.

Plus it was just a filler post b/c I double-posted by mistake.

-Jeff

EDIT: For comparison, here is the same picture with 75% fill light and NO color correction. It still pulls out more detail than the original, no? Does it look more, or less, washed out than my first edit? Your answer should correlate with whether you prefer cool-tint or neutral-tint LEDs.

 

[tubored]

Great question. :thumbsup:

Doing the math...193 lumen max output of the SC50 requires 3-4 watts of power from the cell.

Looking at the different cell chemistries...

-- Alkaline AA cannot deliver 3-4 watts, sorry.

-- Lithium AA can deliver a brief burst of 3 watts, e.g. for a camera flash, but not continuous.

-- NiMH AAs can deliver 3-4 watts continuous, albeit with a shortened runtime.

-- Lithium-ion 14500s can also deliver 3-4 watts continuous.


Unfortunately the electronics cannot tell if you are using alkaline, lithium. or nimh cells. The voltage is about the same for all of these chemistries. So apparently zebralight set a max boost-mode output that would work with all of these chemistries.

It would be sweet if there was some secret-handshake clicky sequence to enable the max output mode for NiMH cells. Zebralight?

-Jeff

Good analysis. I admit, I was only really considering LSD NiMH. It would be nice if there was a way to over-ride the default current limit without pulling out the soldering iron and voiding your warranty.

 

[ZebraLight]

Hi Zebra,

I have the sc50 running on AA NiMH batts. when the bats get low, say around 1.05V the light will not come one. Not even in low. Is this normal? thx

It's normal. The circuit in the SC50/H501/H50 can stay ON down to 0.9V, but wont' turn on below 1.1V if it's OFF.

 

[ZebraLight]

If the sc50 has a buck-boost converter, why do you get higher lumen output with the 14500 cells compared to NiMH/Alkaline? Does the micro measure the cell voltage, see it > 2v and use higher current and voltage cut-off settings? Otherwise you should be able to drive the same currents through the diode regardless of cell chemistry, but I guess you'd want to cut off lithium ion cells at a much higher voltage than the other chemistries. What is the reasoning between using different drive currents though?

I'm really interested in the sc50w, it sounds like a great little light. I was just hoping for more output without investing in new cells.

The max power output of a typical boost circuit is limited by the input voltage AND power of a battery.

 

[jhc37013]

Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.

 

[FroggyTaco]

Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.

Haven't had 1 yet in a week. You can also the battery cap 1/8 turn & it's locked out as well.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

Is anyone turning the SC50 on accidentally in the pocket? Still trying to decide to buy one or not and if the switch is a problem in the pocket I'm not interested but if it is generally not a problem I'm in.

I have the SC30W.
All that needs to be done to avoid accidental activation is to unscrew the Tailcap 1/8th of a turn to lock it out. Not a big deal at all IMO.

 

[defloyd77]

I have the SC30W.
All that needs to be done to avoid accidental activation is to unscrew the Tailcap 1/8th of a turn to lock it out. Not a big deal at all IMO.

That means unscrewing and rescrewing it every time it gets removed from and put into the pocket which would be a pain if you use it frequently.

 

[jhc37013]

That means unscrewing and rescrewing it every time it gets removed from and put into the pocket which would be a pain if you use it frequently.

Yes I'm not interested in doing that and if you have to just so the light don't turn on it would seem like a poor design. I think I am about to order one and check it out for myself, hopefully it's nothing to worry about.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

That means unscrewing and rescrewing it every time it gets removed from and put into the pocket which would be a pain if you use it frequently.

Well sometimes a little extra effort is needed for things to work the way you want them to....at least until our flashlights have voice command that responds to: "Unlock or Turn-On"
I just tried a little test: unscrew the tailcap like a 1/16th or less and it locks it out from accidental activation. Using just one hand, I can EASILY twist it back that 1/16th or less of a turn to make contact again......far from a pain in the a$$. I can also unscrew it thus locking it out one handed VERY EASILY too! A little practice and it becomes second nature when using the SC30W.

Some examples:
I don't like to HAVE to put the car in drive or park, but if it gives me the desired results even though it means an extra step so be it.
I dont want to have to put on protection before I get "sum lovin'" but if I have "accidental activation" that extra step will help avoid babies or disease.
I sometimes don't like the liner-lock on my knife, but without it I might have an "accidental removal of an appendage"
See a trend here?.....sometimes easy extra steps can help A LOT!

BTW, I think mine has only turned on once due to accidental activation.

There's a reason there are so many lights available with so many different features and UI's...to give users options.
Imagine how boring flashlights would be if they all featured the same UI's, switches and programing...:sick2::thumbsdow
There are very few lights (if any) that do everything perfect.

For the price point and what these light have to offer, I feel they are a bargain and built VERY well!

 

[Misan]

There's a reason there are so many lights available with so many different features and UI's...to give users options.
Imagine how boring flashlights would be if they all featured the same UI's, switches and programing...:sick2::thumbsdow
There are very few lights (if any) that do everything perfect.

For the price point and what these light have to offer, I feel they are a bargain and built VERY well!

+1
I think that everyone can afford to choose a flashlight to taste and UI. So that's why there are many flashlights sale everywhere.

 

[jblackwood]

Unlike the H501, the circuit in the SC50 is a full blown buck-boost converter (actually, two independent converters that can fully support 14500's while still maintaining extremely high efficiency in the boost mode).

Thanks for setting me straight. I see that the SC50s I have both disable the power levels that their cells can't support when the voltage drops and that would explain a lot.

 

[ky70]

I just tried a little test: unscrew the tailcap like a 1/16th or less and it locks it out from accidental activation.

I've been amazed with how slight of a turn I can do to lock it out. This is only my 3rd day of ownership of the SC50 so I haven't yet determined if I will constantly use the lockout or not. Though I don't want to deal with a "hot pocket", to this point the unlocked light has not cut on accidentally.

 

[davidt1]

Thank you for posting this picture. I have not ruled out the Mini AA yet because its all-around slender round shape is ideal for the way I intent to carry the light. Also, the big hot spot from the XP-G emitter is ideal for close-up work, which I often use my lights for. What is your opinion of these lights?

By the way, accidental activation can be minimized by designing a smaller and more recessed click button.

 

[kaichu dento]

Thank you for posting this picture. I have not ruled out the Mini AA yet because its all-around slender round shape is ideal for the way I intent to carry the light. Also, the big hot spot from the XP-G emitter is ideal for close-up work, which I often use my lights for. What is your opinion of these lights?

By the way, accidental activation can be minimized by designing a smaller and more recessed click button.

If you're after the slimmest light available in AA it will be the EZAA which I carry next to my wallet in my back pocket, but the MiNi will definitely beat it for your close up work. My two favorite AA lights are the EZAAw and MiNi AA!

 

[davidt1]

If you're after the slimmest light available in AA it will be the EZAA which I carry next to my wallet in my back pocket, but the MiNi will definitely beat it for your close up work. My two favorite AA lights are the EZAAw and MiNi AA!

Do you have a SC50? I am dying to know how the SC50 compares to the Mini AA and to the Akoray 106 when using 14500 battery.

 

[kaichu dento]

Sorry I don't yet but I probably will have an SC50w before too long!

 

[uplite]

Do you have a SC50? I am dying to know how the SC50 compares to the Mini AA and to the Akoray 106 when using 14500 battery.

From what I've seen, no one does heat management (sinking & transfer) in a AA light as well as Zebralight.

Also the Q-mini does not have a buck converter. I'd guess akoray is also boost-only. These lights might let you overdrive the LED with direct li-ion voltage (3.7-4.2v), but the heat will diminish the LED output in the short term, and kill the LED itself in the long term.

If you want to run 14500s in an ultralight single-AA torch, Zebralight seems like the only game in town. :shrug:

-Jeff