Emitter swap

I have a Fenix L1P and a Dorcy Super 1 Watt (1-123a lithium).
The Dorcy has a better tint and I was wondering if I would have any problems putting the Dorcy emitter in the Fenix.
The Dorcy has a RV1KW emitter on the star and I don't know enough about bin codes and forward voltage to be sure what issues may arise from this mod.

Can anyone offer a nOOb any input that a luminary dumba$$ like myself might be able to understand.

I went ahead and swapped them out.

The Fenix seems to work fine.

You can get the glued on emitter off the Fenix by heating it with a handheld hair dryer. Only takes about 30 seconds of heat and it pops right off.

it´s a V1 ->yelloish. somtimes a little lttle little bit green but most yelloish.

here on CPF most boardies prefer XO and WO bin.
http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/

I've had all the heads of all my Fenix lights off easily enough, but getting the guts out of the head has been more of a pain. What did you do to get the guts out? I've read several threads, but am wondering what you personally did.

The V1s are usually pretty yellow-greenish but TV1Ls are what I've built most of my Mag mods with. I mostly sell to outdoorsmen kinda guys and the V1s seem to work quite well for that purpose but keep in mind, the tint binning is a range. You can have two V1s next to each other and one may be distinctly yellow and one may be pretty much white.

If I was building a light for myself I would stick with X0, W0, Y0 and YA as the color bins of choice. Best one I've ever seen is a W0 but generally I think I prefer X0s.

The original Fenix emitter was a pure white with maybe some blue tint to it, the V1 Dorcy emitter is a whiteish yellow, more pleasing to my eyes than the blueish tinted Fenix.


cratz2,

I used a pair of pointy needle nose plier to unscrew my light engine. It started easily, but I encountered some resistance because of the glue in the head.
I just kept screwing it up and down until I broke the glue bond. Cleaned out the threads and the reflector assembly screwed out with ease. Heat is the enemy of most glues, so I would suggest heating it up. A normal hand held hair drier should get it hot enough to break down the glue without causing any damage to any other parts of the light. Do procede with caution though.

Z

thezman said:

You can get the glued on emitter off the Fenix by heating it with a handheld hair dryer. Only takes about 30 seconds of heat and it pops right off.

Click to expand...

Are all emitters glued on this way? What prevents the emitter from falling off when it heats up?

mpk,

When I desoldered the tabs on the Fenix emitter, it was still stuck on the star with some type of adhesive. Same thing with the SL ProPoly 4AA Luxeon I took apart. My Dorcy 1 watt had no glue under the emitter. That is the extent of my experience with emitters.

Even if the glue were to fail, it is still held on by the soldered tabs that stick out the side of the emitter.

My very inexperienced opinion is that the glue may be used to hold the emitter centered in the star while the tabs are soldered.

Thanks thezman, I forgot about the solder tabs. That makes a lot of sense. I'm a newbie, obviously

My Dorcy 1 watt had no glue under the emitter.

Click to expand...

Did it have any heat sink compound under emitter?

IIRC, it did not.