Removing a corroded battery from a d cell Mag?

How do you remove a stuck, corroded d cell from a 3 D maglight?? There is 1 cell stuck at the top of the tube. Any ideas?

sombody smarter may have a better way to push it thru the top or what ever but i've tried

mixing some arm n hammer baking soda w/water i mixed a dixie cup w/tablespoon big and 3fingers of water wanted it strong

and poured it in left it for a while used a screwdriver to clean away the crud

good luck

You could just pick up a brand new Mag85 at the B/S/T trade section to replace it.:rock:

Coca-Cola, let it sit. That will dissolve some of the corrosion. Beat the open end against a piece of wood such that the inertia of the battery pulls it out. In other words, impact the thing inline.

Usually you will have to replace it after this.

Scott

Secamp32 Welcome to CPF.
Simple answer to your question, buy another :naughty:

No, check this link out. I'm sure it will help.

How do your remove stuck D-cells in a Mag 3D?

Good Luck

I just went through this disaster with my SL Twin-Task 3C.

The middle battery was the one that yucked all over the place.

After pounding the tail on a board for awhile, the middle battery moved enough to allow the battery near the head to act as a ram of sorts, and it finally came out.

This is the first time this has happened with any of my 50 or so lights.

It was common in the lead-acid days.

This light was used by relatives on a vacation, runtime unknown (other than I knew it WAS used). Forgot to replace the batteries.

Moral: replace partially depleted batteries.

A half round ******* file was used to smooth the really rusty/corroded side. Liberal application of Breakfree CLP, and swabbing like a mad woodpecker got most of the crud out.

Make sure you also talk to the battery maker about their warranty. I got a $20 Palm M105 and used it for six months before the batteries leaked out. Energizer sent me a $160 check.

This is the third or fourth light I've lost to corroded batteries. I can't remember if the batteries are energizer of duracell. I'd hate to send it to one and find out it was the wrong one.

Leave it in a Starbucks restroom and wait for the bomb squad to remove it for you.

Believe it or don't

Do they make automotive cylinder hone's that size? I figure if that ever happened to me, I'd just use a smaller cylinder hone. Maybe a hone made for a motorcycle?

Compressed air, shoot it out..

Arkayne said:

Do they make automotive cylinder hone's that size? I figure if that ever happened to me, I'd just use a smaller cylinder hone. Maybe a hone made for a motorcycle?

Click to expand...

Try a brake cylinder hone - the cylinders in hydraulic drum brakes are (IIRC) about the size of a "C" cell, and the hones probably have enough "give" to hone a "D" size cylinder.

Secamp32 said:

This is the third or fourth light I've lost to corroded batteries. I can't remember if the batteries are energizer of duracell. I'd hate to send it to one and find out it was the wrong one.

Click to expand...

Your initial post said that the stuck battery is at the top - presumably 1 or 2 batteries closer to the end cap came out OK. Most people load a flashlight with all batteries the same brand - which brand was/were the battery/batteries that came out OK? Also, can you clean up the bottom of the "leaker" enough to see the plastic jacket of the battery? Looking at a couple batteries I've got at hand, the "wraparound" of the jacket on the bottom of the battery (about 3/32" wide, surrounding the negative terminal) is solid black on Duracell, and predominantly silver with black, red, and yellow accents on Energizer.