fenix p1 batt question

tsask

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Oct 6, 2005
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good question.

this is the same reason why I haven't bought the Orb Raw Ns yet. From what I've read here a single cell configuration is more forgiving. Why not try those protected RCR123s from lighthound?
 

gadgetnerd

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Brisbane, Australia
I use an unprotected RCR123 in my P1 and it works well (and is VERY bright). As soon as the beam dims, which happens over a couple of minutes so is easily noticeable, pull the battery out and recharge it. I do this and the battery voltage is 2.8V straight out of the torch, recovering to 3V after about 30 seconds. 2.8V should neither wreck your battery life (I've been draining them to this level in a longbow micra for quite a while) nor send your torch into orbit.
 

4sevens

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Atlanta, GA
I use AW's 3.7v and 3.0v protected cells.
Folks, I highly recommend you using protected cells. There is just too much
risk in turning your li-ions into one-time use primaries :D

Also i hate constant monitoring the output watching for a drop.
the P1 is regulated enough that when it drops, it drops fast!
 

Ivanhoe

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Aug 26, 2005
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Tulare, CA
I've only used protected r123's from both lighthound and batterystation and those have worked well for me. I like the safety of the protected lithiums as it gives me one less thing to worry about.
 

tsask

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I got my RCR123s from Lighthound. This thread tells me to wait on my Raw Ns until protected 14250 cells are available.
 

Somy Nex

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Penang, Malaysia
i think it'll be "safe"(er) to use unprotected batts in direct drive lights (as opposed to regulated) like the Orb RAWs, because you will notice when the light starts to dim and thus know that you have to swap batteries.

with regulated lights like the P1, i'd not feel safe using unprotected cells as the regulation circuit will try to drive the battery as much as it can to provide you with constant brightness (as much as possible). so because of the regulation circuit, you won't notice the drop in brightness to tell you when to swap, and you will also be driving your battery hard all the way. both not good when you consider that you want to avoid overdischarge in li-on cells as much as possible.

p.s. you will of course notice an initial drop in brightness on both protected and unprotected batts, but i think that's more because the batteries come hot off the charger at around 4.2v, and will settle down after that drop.
 
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