XR-E in a Tikka XP

No, I haven't done this (yet). Decided to pull my Tikka XP apart to see what made it tick though, and having a play around with some XR-Es I've got it looks like one will fit. The Tikka is kind of pathetic - only 120mA through the LED on high with pretty fresh batteries (450mA on boost though!), but given the Luxeon LED is a Q bin (30-39lumens at 350mA), the XR-E should more than double the light output to make something vaguely decent.

I'm guessing nobody else has tried this mod yet?

I am interested in this mod too. Any news? Maybe SSC P4 would fit too.

Very interesting.

When you get going - some pictures please.

Any idea how many mA'ps the Myo XP is running?

AndreasB

Not really gone anywhere with this yet. I imagine a SSC P4 would probably work better than a Cree straight off - the one mod I've done with one so far worked wonderfully with a straight swap. However whilst I've got some more P4s sitting here, I've got plans for all of them, and anyway the Tikka has a star in it and these are all emitters. Will wait until the P4s are available from the factory on stars and then try the mod I think (though I'm also thinking of getting a PT Eos, which has already been modded with Crees, and would presumably make a better light).

AndreasB said:

Very interesting.

When you get going - some pictures please.

Any idea how many mA'ps the Myo XP is running?

AndreasB

Click to expand...

somebody here stated 350mA on high if I remember correctly.

Sounds plausible - at that rate assuming the same LED as in the Tikka, a Tikka XP modded with a SSC P4 should be a little bit brighter than a Myo XP

I have tested both the Tikka and the myo on my morning runs over the last 14 days, and I would have guessed that the output was the same....must have been the batteries in the myo that was lazy when I got it for testing from my friend.

Is the Tikka swap as easy as ABC? How do you swap a star? Isn't the stock star glued on? If so how do you release it from the heatsink?

AndreasB

Andreas,
haven't you thought about a Seoul mod with the myo,too?I think both lights are easy to mod,but for the myo I know it for sure and it would most probably give you a bigger perfomance gain due to the higher drive level.

Alex

Alex,

You're absolutely right - just had I look inside the Myo and it soooo easy to mod.

Is it a Lux III star? Do I understand correct that the P4 uses exactly the same optics as the Lux III and V ? In that case the mod could be done in 5 minutes....

Now I only have to get my hands on some P4 stars and get my friends permission to mod his light.

Andreas

Currently working on such a mod.
Seoul might do a better job on the optic, then Cree.
Still have 2 confirm this...

Cheers !

AndreasB said:

Is the Tikka swap as easy as ABC? How do you swap a star? Isn't the stock star glued on? If so how do you release it from the heatsink?

Click to expand...

There is no heatsink in a Tikka XP - the star is pretty much loose (though with a temperature sensor attached to the back).

No heatsink? Will a P4 or a Cree run at 120 mA with only the star sinking the heat?

The Myo has a small aluminum piece working as a heatsink.

Will the heatsink requirement be the same or more or less when swapping a Lux with a Cree og a P4?

Bombelman: Keep us posted - pictures?

AndreasB

AndreasB said:

Alex,

You're absolutely right - just had I look inside the Myo and it soooo easy to mod.

Is it a Lux III star? Do I understand correct that the P4 uses exactly the same optics as the Lux III and V ? In that case the mod could be done in 5 minutes....

Now I only have to get my hands on some P4 stars and get my friends permission to mod his light.

Andreas

Click to expand...

It's a Lux III star.I think it should work good with the optic.As far as I know the seoul has the same radiation pattern as the Lambertian Lux.And the slightly different dye height shouldn't be a problem in the case of this optic .This is at least what I suspect and hope for.

AndreasB said:

No heatsink? Will a P4 or a Cree run at 120 mA with only the star sinking the heat?

The Myo has a small aluminum piece working as a heatsink.

Will the heatsink requirement be the same or more or less when swapping a Lux with a Cree og a P4?

Click to expand...

Can't see any reason why a Cree or SSC P4 should have any more problem coping with 120mA - that is only ~350mW. That's assuming of course that it's current regulated - if it's voltage regulated, then given the much lower typical Vf of those compared to a Luxeon you may have problems with overpowering (and that's one test I'd do when carrying out the mod).

I'd imagine the heatsink in the Myo is the reason it can run at higher continuous currents.


In theory the heatsink requirement should be a tad less with a Cree or P4 as they put out a little less heat for a given input power, and as mentioned above, assuming current regulation, the input power is also slightly less due to the lower Vf.