What components for 4D Mag?

First, I tried searching, but "4D Mag" and "4D M@g" turned up A LOT of threads that had nothing to do with the 4D specifically.


OK, now that I got that out of the way, here's basically what I want to do:
Take my incan 4D and convert it to LED.

And here are the detailed requirements: integrate a Cree or SSC LED; keep D batteries with no spacers; replace lens with glass or high-temp optical plastic.

And here's some additional "wants": Regulated multi-mode driver with high efficiency; put out up to 150 lumens; retain focusability; replace reflector with MOP aluminum; waterproofing (not immersible, just dunkable and storm-proof).


I don't know much about multi-mode drivers, but rather than add resistance to decrease light output with the drain rate staying the same I would like a driver that would increase battery life as it decreases output.


I know I could just stick in an EverLED or Terralux and call it a day, but I want to do something more hands-on. I also don't want to spend a lot of money. I know an emitter, driver, heat-sink and lens are pretty cheap and easy. What about adding an efficient multi-mode or making it focusable?

I have one I built into a Tri-Cree. It'll probably be going up for sale shortly because I prefer my Quad-Crees and am about to start building some Penta-Crees.

Here's a list of the components:
Shark Driver
Remora triple level controller
PXR19 heatsink
Three Q2 Cree LEDs
Three Fraen optics
UCL

Ay estimations of the outputs at different levels? I don't need exact lumens (though it would be nice), but can you light up hiking trail at 50 yards on high, and light up an engine bay without blinding yourself on low?

Any idea if it's worth it to use that setup with just a single emitter or is one too weak or narrow or not worth keeping the existing reflector??

I've got a single emitter setup in a Mag3D with one of Electrolumen's new 3 stage switches. The Tri-Cree and the single are totally different beasts. The throw on both is about the same. But the single Cree with the larger stock Mag reflector is a much tighter beam with almost no spill. The Tri-Cree is more of a wall of light due to the three smaller reflectors/optics. The low on both is a little bright for my liking, but it's great for increasing battery life. Roughly half as bright with only 1/4 the power consumption. I have no way to measure the actual lumens. As for the Tri-Cree being too bright on low, not in my opinion. Personally, in the situation you describe, I would prefer the Tri-Cree. I think the single emitter would be too limited when trying to use it for throw.

I posted this in another thread, but basically, my idea is to use an nFlex driver, DHS HAIII heatsink, and SSC eimitter. You can also use fivemaga's aluminum camless reflector and a UCL lens from flashlightlens. With the nflex driver, you'll have multiple brightness levels and with fivemega's camless reflector; you'll still have the ability to focus your light, but It won't be as quick. I think though, once everything is together, you'll see just how bright a light this will be and how much flood it will produce; might make the need to focus it to flood unnecessary. That covers the main parts that you'll need. As far as making you maglite storm proof, I think many will agree that using it in the rain will be alright. Personally though, I'd seal mine up. You can use teflon tape or even epoxy if you want something permanent. That covers the threads, the other problem is the button cover. You'll have to find some way to make it water proof. The only way I can think of it is to use epoxy, but that a permanent solution and I'd like something a bit less extreme.

DonShock, I think I will go the conservative route use a single emitter. Those components add up! Can you tell me about the 3-stage switch from Electrolumens? I couldn't find info...

JamisonM, I don't see what makes the nFlex significantly better than the DX sku 3256, but I'm definitely getting the DHS (non-anod'd) and a lens from flashlightlens. Probably a Borofloat for additional shatter resistance.

gearbox said:

DonShock, I think I will go the conservative route use a single emitter. Those components add up! Can you tell me about the 3-stage switch from Electrolumens? I couldn't find info....

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Here's the Free sample switch thread over on the Marketplace. If you'll scroll down to post #33, EL has a link to his site when he put them up for sale for $5 each. Here's my review of them here on CPF. They are somewhat limited in their application, maximum 7.2V and 2A, but make for a nice cheap setup where they can be used. I purchased more after the free sample and just finished my second build with one this weekend.

DonShock said:

Here's the Free sample switch thread over on the Marketplace. If you'll scroll down to post #33, EL has a link to his site when he put them up for sale for $5 each. Here's my review of them here on CPF. They are somewhat limited in their application, maximum 7.2V and 2A, but make for a nice cheap setup where they can be used. I purchased more after the free sample and just finished my second build with one this weekend.

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Thanks again! $5 is perfect if he's still offering that. Do you find the PWM to be distracting at all? You said you didn't particularly like the low level, but did you notice any pulsing?

gearbox said:

Thanks again! $5 is perfect if he's still offering that. Do you find the PWM to be distracting at all? You said you didn't particularly like the low level, but did you notice any pulsing?

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Also, are there any concerns with wiring it with a DX 3256? Does a 4D, SSC P4, H22A's DHS heatsink, Borofloat lens, 3256 driver, cut-down stock reflector, and the PWM switch with thermal paste and thermal adhesive in the right places sound workable?

gearbox said:

Thanks again! $5 is perfect if he's still offering that. Do you find the PWM to be distracting at all? You said you didn't particularly like the low level, but did you notice any pulsing?

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My issue with the low was it's a little brighter than I like my lows for indoor use, but it's great for longer battery life while still being pretty bright. The PWM is not noticable to me, but then again I'm not one of those people that it really bothers. However, looking at the "dot spacing" when quickly wiggling the light back and forth, the spots are a lot closer together than some other PWM controls I've used. This suggests a higher on/off frequency which should be less noticable for those that sometimes find PWM objectionable.

gearbox said:

Also, are there any concerns with wiring it with a DX 3256? .....

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I don't have a clue how the EL switch will react with some other driver. My suspicion is that it will all depend on the timing of the two different electronic circuits. If the DX3256 is fast enough to keep up with the PWM of the EL switch, the dimming might still work. If it's too slow, it would probably just treat the reduced PWM voltage as a lowering battery voltage and adjust accordingly. But it's just a pure guess.