It was either all of this or a Novatac... here's what I ordered...

So... I turned down the Novatac and ordered all this from batteryjunction.com with the cpf2006 5% discount code:

6 Tenergy 900Mah RCR123 cells with charger - http://batteryjunction.com/4parc390reli.html

Vanson BC1HU Smart Charger with 4x D,C,AA,AAA and 2x 9v (all the highest Mah) - http://batteryjunction.com/smrebach18ni.html

A tube of Nye Nyogel 760G 57 gram - http://batteryjunction.com/nyogel-760g.html

T-333 Universal Battery Tester - http://batteryjunction.com/tunbachformo.html

Digital Multimeter A-DT-9205A - http://batteryjunction.com/a-dt-9205a.html

All this came to $153.96 after saving $7.53 from the discount code. I went to the website just to order the RCR123s and charger and a battery tester, but I ended up with a lot more. I believe everything was "on sale" and it seemed like a pretty good deal. And now that I have all those rechargeable batteries (plus 22 Energizer 2500Mah laying around), I should be good to go with finding places for them, like in MagLite mods... D and C coming up.

What do you guys think of the products? If anyone has them, let me know what you think of them so far. I've heard about the RCR123s working well in the P2D which I bought them for, but other than that, it's all hope...

Do the RCR123s last as long as the CR123s? And will the 2600Mah AA cells be as good as lithium AA cells?

Thanks,
Ryan

P.S. Is there a charger that will charge RCR123 and other normal cells like D,C,AA,AAA as well? And is the Vanson charger I ordered a good charger?

You decided not to buy a flashlight and instead got a bunch of batteries, etc...

...how do you get light to come out of them? :shrug:

Well, the way I see it I guess is that now I won't have to buy anymore batteries. Thus, my "battery fund" will now turn into my "Novatac Fund" and eventually I'll have a Novatac - with some help of course from other funds :thumbsup:

But, I'm pretty sure I made a good decision because my P2D Rebel100 is treating me pretty well and I'very happy with it. But, I knew my stock of 15 CR123s was waining and I needed a new solution, so... v wallah.

Now... how do these RCR123s and AAs compare?

-Ryan

FliGuyRyan said:

Now... how do these RCR123s and AAs compare?

-Ryan

Click to expand...

The RCR123s will last about half as long as a primary CR123. I didn't look at the specs on your new RCR123s, but be careful if they are the 3.6V cells and not the 3.0V cells. You could very easily "instaflash" an LED or Bulb by feeding it ~7.2V (or ~3.6V if its a single cell light) instead of the expected ~6.0V (or 3.0V single) the light should see.

As for the AAs, IMO they usually don't last quite as long as a primary AA, but they are very close. I mainly use the 2650mAh Duracells, and they die just short of what a a good quality primary AA will run. FWIW, with the NiMH rechargeables you are starting out with only 1.2V per cell instead of the 1.5V of a primary AA.

Roger

Do the RCR123s last as long as the CR123s?

Click to expand...

I Bought the same batteries & charger from them about a year ago. They dont have the same runtime as CR123s but its close. I am happy with it.

I use the Tenergy 900Mah (3.0 volt) RCR123's in my Insight HX2 Typhoon. I did a runtime test and on average got 1 hr 9 minutes runtime before the low battery blink started. With intermitant use u should get a better runtime than that.

mchlwise said:

You decided not to buy a flashlight and instead got a bunch of batteries, etc...

...how do you get light to come out of them? :shrug:

Click to expand...

Thank you... I resisted earlier.

I believe Tenergy 900Mah RCR123 cells I ordered are indeed 3.0V, and that's also why I ordered the battery testers as well.

Another question though is how does the tester help you? I know this is really a dumb question, but I read about everyone testing their batteries with Volt meter or testers in general and I don't really know what you're supposed to be looking for? I imagine a fully charged 3.0V cell will read a little over 3.0V but, after you've used it, what does it go down to when it's bad in say a P2D Rebel100?

Also, depusm12, I'm not familiar with your Insight HX2 Typhoon. You stated you get 1 hr. and 9 min. from it but what do you get with a primary cell in comparison?

Thanks for the comments and sarcasm alike,
Ryan

Yeah, what is the point of a separate battery tester....doesn't it do the same thing as a multimeter set to measure voltage?

I have a multimeter and that is how I've been testing my batteries. It seems to work just fine. I assumed a battery tester was a special function, yet limited voltmeter for people who didn't own or know how to operate a multimeter.

I'm a flashlight noob, so somebody correct me if I am wrong.

You really didn't need the battery tester, that's what the multimeter is for, and does a much better job. But it doesn't hurt to have it.

Using the multimeter:

I use a meter on every battery (Li-Io). A 3.7 volt rechargable will come off the charger at 4.2 volts (if you have a good charger and/or protected batteries), that tells you it's "full". When the battery gets down close to 3.7 volts (what it's rated at) it's "empty", or completely discharged. A battery tester/checker won't tell you this, most just indicate "good" or "bad". If your batteries go above 4.2 (or close to this . . . 4.24 etc.) when charging, then your charger is unsafe. The green light should come on at 4.2 volts.

Another thing to use the multimeter for is to match batteries. If you are using multiple batteries in a light (ie. 2xRCR123A's), you should use closely matched cells. In other words don't use a cell reading 4.0 with another reading 3.4. The cells should be closer in readings to be paired for use, showing no more than .1 difference. Don't use a "half empty" cell with a fully charged cell. Charge 'em up til their both very close to 4.2, or find two that are closely matched in charge. Using two "half empty" cells is ok, as long as they read close to the same volts remaining. And never mix brands, types, etc. Lithiums are picky about who they work with in a flashlight.

I always check (with a meter) my batteries before putting them on a charger, and check the readings when they come off, and pair closely matched cells together for use in 2 cell lights.

I had a light that wouldn't work at all the other day. I pulled the cells and checked them. One read 3.8 volts, the other read 0.00 volts. The protection circuit on one cell had kicked in (for whatever reason). I popped the 0.00 cell in a charger for 3 seconds and it reset the circuit. That cell then read 3.79 volts, almost identical to its "brother".

As you learn more you'll find many uses for that meter.

Enjoy your lights.

- Larry

copperfox,

Indeed you are correct. But, the point of me buying both is to have a technical and a non-technical approach to my battery management. Also, the battery tester is more mobile than a multimeter and doesn't look at silly if I were to pop that out in a crowd per se.

And... I didn't have one or the other and I think they ultimately are for different things although you can use the multimeter to measure voltage.

What batteries do you use? And again, I ask, what do you really look for when you're measuring with the battery tester or the multimeter?

Thanks,
Ryan

Another thought, about something you didn't ask about -

Someone once said "There's nothing more worthless than advice that wasn't asked for" . . . but here goes anyway:

I am retired/disabled, and forced to live on disability, just to give you a perspective on my lack of wealth, I'm no Big Daddy Gotrocks . . . . . but I buy nothing but AW cells, the most expensive out there.

Why?

Simple - they're cheaper. No, I'm not contradicting myself. I've tried all the cheap stuff and have eventually tossed 'em all. Over time (and AW's last a looong time) AW's come out the most cost effective, reliable, safest cells available. Ultrafires, Tenergy, etc.'s won't even light up my WF-500's . . . their power and protection circuits just won't handle the high power requirement.

Believe it or not . . . . one guy buys cheap cells for almost nothing, the other pays the high cost of AW's . . . over the long run the guy buying the AW's will have spent less, ruined less lights, and enjoyed the trip.

And never even think about touching unprotected cells, it's just not worth it.

- Larry

Thank you Larry, so few people realize that it's cheaper to buy quality once than garbage repeatedly. The lady yells when i buy expensive tools, but all my tools still work...

FliGuyRyan said:

Also, depusm12, I'm not familiar with your Insight HX2 Typhoon. You stated you get 1 hr. and 9 min. from it but what do you get with a primary cell in comparison?
Thanks for the comments and sarcasm alike,
Ryan

Click to expand...

Ryan

I actually haven't used primaries in it since I used the ones that came with the lightt. It's the same light as the Night Ops Gladius (actually the Gladius is made for Night Ops by Insight and Insight holds the patent on it IIRC). I am a LEO and the Typhoon is the primary light on my duty belt. With spare cells carried in my cargo pocket.

FliGuyRyan said:

What batteries do you use? And again, I ask, what do you really look for when you're measuring with the battery tester or the multimeter?

Click to expand...

I just set my multimeter to "DCV" (DC Volts) 20 (possible choices are 200m, 2000m, 20, 200, and 1000).

I test my 18650s to make sure they are charged to 4.2v when the come off the charger, and I also use it on AAs and D cells to see how far above or below 1.5v they are so that I can estimate how much life is left in them.

Wassernaut said:

. . . but I buy nothing but AW cells, the most expensive out there.
- Larry

Click to expand...

Well spoke Larry, +1 here.

AW's cells rock.

I rotate 20 of his RCR123 3.7V 750mA

Love em...

Ken

Wassernaut,

Thank you so much for the great advice and I only wish I had read it sooner. I didn't realize that the AW brand was the best and if I had, I would've ordered them. Do the AW cells still allow the P2D to work with all the modes right from the get-go?

Also, thank you and also copperfox for the advice on how to you the multimeter. I'm still a little confused on how to use it as far as what's "good" and what's "bad" for the battery voltage, but I imagine the rule wassernaut said about once it gets to its stated voltage, then it's done (or is that only for Li-ion?).

Anyways, thanks for all the help and if you have any more advice please share. I know this thread answers a lot of questions people might have had. And I'll measure my readings from my multimeter and compare them with the tester to learn where good and bad really are based off of wassernaut's comment.

Thanks guys,
Ryan

KenAnderson,

I didn't see your message earlier, but the AW cells are only 750Mah and they're 3.7V? How would they work with a P2D and allow for all modes to work then? And what about Novatac anyway, do they prefer a certain type of rechargeable 123?

Damn those Tenergy 900mAh cells sure look like a good deal
I guess it would be pretty seasonable to guesstimate that they'd provide about half (probably a bit more) the runtime since Energizer e²'s are 1500mAh.

Now the question is, is the actual capacity in these Tenergy RCR123 close the 900mAh advertised specs? Such as UltraFire's which always seem to over-spec.

From what I've heard on here, they seem to be pretty good as far as sticking to there claim... we'll see here in a few days.