abvidledUK
Flashlight Enthusiast
I can just see the difference between 80 & 90 lumens, L1D
More so 80 & 135, P2D.
Even so, the difference between 80 & 160, P3D does not seem all that great, an alleged doubling of output.
So, between 160, 215 & 225, is there really a useful difference ?
(Various newer P3D models)
Is it really worth upgrading for just a few more % Lumens.
In your experience, what is the minimum % difference worth going for, the 100% increase from 80 to 160 seems to be my minimum, admittedly that 100% is contained within the same torch, and is not a direct increase from one torch model to another.
Secondly, just what is the temperature difference between hand holding say a P3D CE, and letting it stand on end ?
I note that hand holding is recommended for turbo, to help conduct excess heat, or is it to just act as an overheating warning ?
Left on end, it does seem hotter than keeping held in the hand, or is that just my hand cooling and reacting to a hotter body after a short period.
Having had it on turbo for nearly an hour now, the LED head is much hotter than the RCR123's, so it looks like Fenix's claim to have a good heatsink bears out, which presumably is also why the new T1 head is quite thick, (4.45mm) to act a a LED heatsink too.
I also found this article from fenix tactical, about heat on Turbo mode
http://216.239.59.104/search?q=cach...t.pdf+fenix+p3d+heat&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=3&gl=uk
"Excellent durability and quality
Fenix products do not overdrive LEDs, this assures that the LED will last its
rated lifetime of 100,000 hours! Fenix lights implement effective and efficient
heatsinks to protect the LED from overheating while keeping the LED efficient
with its power consumption. During testing stages Fenix P3D CE was running
180 hours on turbo mode and still did not damage the LED! "
Nothing about being separated from body, run off PSU, cooled, in a fridge, or whatever though.
More so 80 & 135, P2D.
Even so, the difference between 80 & 160, P3D does not seem all that great, an alleged doubling of output.
So, between 160, 215 & 225, is there really a useful difference ?
(Various newer P3D models)
Is it really worth upgrading for just a few more % Lumens.
In your experience, what is the minimum % difference worth going for, the 100% increase from 80 to 160 seems to be my minimum, admittedly that 100% is contained within the same torch, and is not a direct increase from one torch model to another.
Secondly, just what is the temperature difference between hand holding say a P3D CE, and letting it stand on end ?
I note that hand holding is recommended for turbo, to help conduct excess heat, or is it to just act as an overheating warning ?
Left on end, it does seem hotter than keeping held in the hand, or is that just my hand cooling and reacting to a hotter body after a short period.
Having had it on turbo for nearly an hour now, the LED head is much hotter than the RCR123's, so it looks like Fenix's claim to have a good heatsink bears out, which presumably is also why the new T1 head is quite thick, (4.45mm) to act a a LED heatsink too.
I also found this article from fenix tactical, about heat on Turbo mode
http://216.239.59.104/search?q=cach...t.pdf+fenix+p3d+heat&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=3&gl=uk
"Excellent durability and quality
Fenix products do not overdrive LEDs, this assures that the LED will last its
rated lifetime of 100,000 hours! Fenix lights implement effective and efficient
heatsinks to protect the LED from overheating while keeping the LED efficient
with its power consumption. During testing stages Fenix P3D CE was running
180 hours on turbo mode and still did not damage the LED! "
Nothing about being separated from body, run off PSU, cooled, in a fridge, or whatever though.
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