EX10 (1xCR123A) and D10 (1xAA) Part 4

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Robocop

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I was thinking the exact same thing....never seen a thread grow this fast.

Fenix must be doing something right however the dealer has much to do with the popularity as well as the makers.

I am planning on purchasing one of each of these new models however have a question for any who own one already....Not that these would need modding however I like tinkering with all of my lights. Has anyone attempted to remove the internals? I notice the slotted ring can be tightened by hand from previous posts and I am curious if removed will it allow access to the internals?

We all know someone will be experimenting with different reflectors and circuit mods or maybe even swapping emitters...so are these units potted tight or can they be opened?
 

PhantomPhoton

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psssst! Robo, check out #8, #9, & #10. ;)

1. 4sevens is building a new store to accommodate the new products
2. They are on the fenix-store web site so early testers can access them
3. They ARE NOT headlamps
4. Production is well underway
5. It will be Radical & Different (TM)
6. Release time should be 1-2 weeks
7. McGizmo was paid royalty for an aspect of the design
8. IT'S NOT A FENIX LIGHT!
9. IT'S NOT A FENIX LIGHT!
10. IT'S NOT A FENIX LIGHT!
11. The products aren't "pure 4Sevens lights"
12. 4Sevens will have pre-production units with him @ SE Regional
13. they are not the same as LF5XT
14. simple and intuitive design

Early specs:

- 7075 military grade Al
- both models will use both common AA and CR123 as well as li-ion (!)
- nickel-plated, "hard", piston drive button
- moderately aggressive knurling
- MCU controlled
- D10 3.5 x 0.75 in (8.89 x 1.91 cm)
- EX10 3.0 x 0.85 in (7.62 x 2.16 cm)

I think a lot of people having a lot of confidence in 4Sevens is a big reason for the popularity . Now I'm just waiting for the 18650 version. :D
 
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Robocop

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Yes I do know this is not a Fenix light however even with a True Fenix light the dealer is one of the biggest reasons I support Fenix. Regardless of the maker 4Sevens is a great dealer to do business with and it seems anything he offers does very well.

When I said Fenix must be doing something right I was speaking of 4sevens....I often forget he is not the maker and simply a dealer. Usually when I think of Fenix I think of the Fenix store and 4Sevens....just a habit as he is the only dealer I have purchased this brand from.
 

Ty_Bower

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Dumb question... what color are your O rings? My EX10 has a translucent white one at the head, and a red one on the piston. In my "spare parts" bag, I received one extra of each color.
 

BillMPL

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These lights look great, but the main reason I went ahead and ordered one is because David is behind them. This assures me of a quality light with outstanding support.
 

m16a

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Well, I've had a night to use the light, and my thoughts are still the same, AMAZING! The low is perfect for a night light, didn't hurt my eyes at all, but dang after waking did it seem bright..:laughing: My D10 has a slight high pitched whine when the bezel is fully engaged and the light is on high. Its barely audible unless the place is silent or the light is next to your ear, I'm assuming thats not a problem, since other lights do that. I've already chapped my thumb and index fingers on both hands messing around with the light, meaning the knurling is great. Soaking wet, it won't move it your hand. In just a few minutes, I will run a brief water resistance test(nothing big, just a cup of water for a few minutes) and post results. So after day one with the light, still awesome! Nitecore and 4-7's, what an amazing light!:twothumbs
 

SCD

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Hey all.........

Has anybody noticed that the exact same interface is available while in tactical/momentary mode?

While in momentary press the piston till you get your user setting(memory/last mode) but not hard enough force it to max. I assume you have to hold it in this position for more than .5 second in order to override forced max. Once this time has passed you can now fully press the piston and the light will begin to ramp, let off the piston ever so slightly--less than a 1/64"-- then back to full press and the light will begin to ramp back down.

You can also get to min/max(while in momentary) using the same techniques as explained in four seven's video. Say your on min and you depress the piston(wait the .5)----same small click and hold will get you to max instantly. If at max a quick triple click will get you to low.

The trick is to barely come off full press(in momentary) for the switching/ramping to occur. Once you get the "feel" of this very short press it really becomes quite easy.

Give it a try
 

9x23

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Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........

9x23
 

Sgt. LED

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I took a shower with the EX10 and it did fine. I figure the shower simulates a super downpour good enough. Never been too concerned about full dunking, as long as the shower test is good I have faith in the light's ability. It sucks yours got water in it! Which do you have 123 or AA? Was it on high and warm when it went in? Perhaps it was only condensation? What was the water temp?

Another reason to get the 123 version! If it gets water in the bezel you can open it yourself and dry it out.
 

BabyDoc

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Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........

9x23

Had you greased the O-rings real well before you subjected the light to your water test?
 

4sevens

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Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........
9x23
No problem. Email us at [email protected] for a replacement. We need to look into your unit. Question... did you have it in hot or cold water?
Rapidly quickly switching between the two while the light is underwater will
cause a vacuum effect. (cold air is more dense than hot air)
 

streetmaster

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Another reason to get the 123 version! If it gets water in the bezel you can open it yourself and dry it out.
I agree 100%! There are many reasons to choose the EX10. The easy open bezel, not to mention the cool stainless steel. And longer burn time and a bit more brightness as reported by ppl who already have theirs.
 
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