Surefire 6PL

hey all,

so I've decided on the 6PL over the E2DL as my first flashlight of choice. I was just wondering what kind of bulbs I can replace the stock on with (if I were to ever wanted to mod it). What is the max amount of lumens that can fit into the 6PL.

Thanks
-T

P.s. I'm becoming addicted to flashlights without even owning one, I'm getting scared :duh2:

Check out the sticky under the LED Flashlights sub-forum, everything you will need to know will be there.

Tiger18 said:

hey all,

so I've decided on the 6PL over the E2DL as my first flashlight of choice. I was just wondering what kind of bulbs I can replace the stock on with (if I were to ever wanted to mod it). What is the max amount of lumens that can fit into the 6PL.

Thanks
-T

P.s. I'm becoming addicted to flashlights without even owning one, I'm getting scared :duh2:

Click to expand...

I believe that the E2DL is a better choice, because you alrady have 120Lumens inside the light. and also two different output mode 5/120.
And it also looks much better than the older 6PL.
I bought the New-latest 2008 model of E2DL-BK at e-bay: $119.00 :thumbsup:

Malkoff M60/M60F. That is all! :thumbsup:

Go with the cheaper 6P if you're planning on upgrading. The difference between the 6P and 6PL is only the drop-in unit and the writing on the body. 6P vs 6PLED laser etching.

Is the bulb for the E2DL easy to replace? or at least substitute? I would like a light that I can replace parts with over time without having to buy a new light :twothumbs

I also like the 6pL defender for the tailcap. But the E2DL has a click as well.

So the E2DL is a better buy?

1 for E2DL

0 for the 6PL defender

The 6P has by far the most options available to "lego" it as well as having the brightest beams.

Also, if you run the LF EO-9 w/ 2x RCR123a you can get 380 lumens out of it (no more than 10 minutes at a time).
http://lumensfactory.com/product_detail.php?id=1

or you can run the LF HO-9 w/ 2xRCR123a for 320 lumens
http://lumensfactory.com/product_detail.php?id=6

If you prefer LEDs the Malkoff M60 and M60F are wonderful P60 drop-in pills. They are both 235+ lumens and have a nice warm wonderful tint to them. I prefer them to incandescents. The M60 has a beam profile that is well suited to be used outdoors if you need to reach far out and light something up, while the M60F will be able to light up a very substantial amount of your room with bright light.
http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_8

Also, I would order the Z49 foward clickie for your 6P if you prefer clickies. I find that when I loan out my lights, I don't want to spend 2 minutes explaining to someone how to turn it on and off.

Tiger18 said:

Is the bulb for the E2DL easy to replace? or at least substitute? I would like a light that I can replace parts with over time without having to buy a new light :twothumbs

I also like the 6pL defender for the tailcap. But the E2DL has a click as well.

So the E2DL is a better buy?

1 for E2DL

0 for the 6PL defender

Click to expand...

Somebody here told me that E2DL can delivery over 200 Lumens if you use two rechargeable RCR123 (3,7-4,2v.) but maybe it's dangerous for LED diod?)

I don't know, i'm no expert on SF. Maybe someone else know for sure?

SF 6P ALL the way. Throw in a Malkoff M60 or M60L (then get a G2 with a M60LL). Then you have a REAL light with a real beam (something more then just a hot spot and no spill).

That LACK of any REAL spill is what makes the E2L "not as good" as the 6P. Well, that and it (E2L) DOESN'T look as good as a 6P Daark, and the ability (6P) to "switch" mods out when Gene comes out with "new & better"! Remember Daark, even if you think it (E2L) looks best, not EVERYONE will agree (I certainly don't). My .02 FWIW

If you want to do it and do it right and save yourself plenty of money in the long run! Get the 9P and a Malkoff M60 or M60L. You will be able to use the extra cell for great runtimes! With a third cell you can also have a lot of potent incan options down the road if you want to experiment.

I wish I could go back in time a year or so and give myself similar advice. I would of told myself to get the HAIII C3, a Z48 clicky, and a Malkoff and not waste so much money trying to get it done cheaper. All I did was spend twice the amount of money on lesser products that didn't fill my needs only to eventually go for the good stuff anyway.

I hope somebody can benefit from my advice even if it's too late to save myself any money.

I bought a 6P off eBay for $40 and installed a DX R2 Cree Drop-in which brought it up to supposedly 225+ lumens. It's kick-*** bright, believe me. It has a nice slightly warm white tint. Considering the price of the drop-in ($12.40) I'm extremely happy with the end result. If you want to go even cheaper with similar results, get a SolarForce L2 from eBay and throw an R2 in there(or you can buy it with the R2 already installed). It all depends how much you're willing to spend. The suggestions mentioned above with the Malkoff's are very good ideas if you can afford them. Whether you go with the SureFire(highly reccommended) or the SolarForce(a close second), you will have endless possibilities for choices of every part of the light.









Beam shot of the DX R2 in the SureFire 6P

In a moment of insanity I bought an E2DL on CPL for $110... and my 6P should arrive about the same time.

In favor of the E2DL is its dual mode, including a nice low low, forward clickie (6P has only a momentary switch, twist for on), and better throw with the standard emitter thanks to the lens (but little spill as a result of the lens). Oh, and it's a scarey-looking flashlight with edges everywhere (very bad Feng Shui, however)

In favor of the 6P are it's easier upgrade and customizing options (tons of third party drop-ins) and it's just a classy, classic looking light. I'm still debating whether to get a Malkoff drop-in or a Dereelight drop-in with three modes. If I get the Dereelight 3SM I'll probably also get a Z59 clicky switch, too.

AS others have said, if you plan to drop in a brighter LED anyway, don;t bother buying the 6PL... just get the cheaper 6P incan.

I believe the 6PD is the ultimate choice for adding a drop-in because you get the scalloped bezel AND a momentary+click on tailcap switch.

Sgt. LED said:

If you want to do it and do it right and save yourself plenty of money in the long run! Get the 9P and a Malkoff M60 or M60L. You will be able to use the extra cell for great runtimes!

Click to expand...

Sounds like a killer combo!

Couldn't find any runtime charts and just curious how long you are getting with the 9P/M60?

Thanks!

I agree with the ones recommend the P platform, especially for it being your first Surefire. But like Sgt. LED, I prefer the C's to all the above mentioned. Either a C2-HA or C3-HA would be great with any sort of clickie. They do, however, come with a price tag. If you're going to do it right, do it right the first time :thumbsup: