Arc6 Questions

Hello,
I am thinking about pulling the trigger on an Arc6 but have a few questions first. Does anyone know what the runtime on the lowest setting is? One thing is that I don't see a lot of cheerleading about the Arc6, for those of you who have em, do you like em? I am on the fence here so push me one way or the other please! Thanks folks!!! Doug

Don't know what the level 1 runtime is, but it's probably pretty long, considering how low the lowest output is.

Maybe some photos will help you decide:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/208727

... or some throw comparisons (note - these are from a pre-production Arc6 with a Lumileds K2 instead of SSC P4 emitter):
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2641524&postcount=7

... or some wall beamshots (again, note - pre-prod. Arc6) and a size comparison:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2640371&postcount=1

Thanks Orcinus, that helps!! How does the production model compare to the K2? Doug

dtsoll said:

Hello,
Does anyone know what the runtime on the lowest setting is?

Click to expand...

Viren has updated the runtime charts.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2656960&postcount=28
Level 3 to Level 7 runs for approx 1 hour 5 minutes to 1 hour 17 minutes
Level 2 has longer higher runtime of approx 3 hours 24 minutes.
Level 1?

Haz said:

Viren has updated the runtime charts.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2656960&postcount=28
Level 3 to Level 7 runs for approx 1 hour 5 minutes to 1 hour 17 minutes
Level 2 has longer higher runtime of approx 3 hours 24 minutes.
Level 1?

Click to expand...

Level1.. I gave up ....rather the logging software gave up after 12 hrs on first test with 1 second sampling (approx 43200+ reading) ... I need more patience to do the test again with lower sampling rate I am assuming the light will run for some time more than 12 hours

AFAIK, a slightly lower output and a slightly higher runtime on the production.
Also, the production model's tint should be somewhat cooler (according to Peter, not blue, just cool - think middle of the WC range).

I've got a production model (P4). The tint is very nice for a LED. The beam pattern is floody and this minimizes the LED washout effect IMHO. The runtimes are not the greatest. The "6" does a very good job at killing batteries. I put a spent cell from my "6" in a SF KX1 and it barely fired up. They are however very bright. I am very pleased with my light. Like the song says, "It's better to burnout than fade away..."

One smallish tip re: (overly?) drained batteries.

If you don't want to shorten your battery's lifetime, swap them as soon as you notice the Arc6 stepping down a level (from any level, especially higher levels). However, since the battery step-down isn't always that obvious, try this - watch for a tint shift to yellow. If your L4 and above are noticeably warmer or greener than before, it's a sure sign the battery is somewhere around 3.2V and you should swap it.

orcinus said:

One smallish tip re: (overly?) drained batteries.

If you don't want to shorten your battery's lifetime, swap them as soon as you notice the Arc6 stepping down a level (from any level, especially higher levels). However, since the battery step-down isn't always that obvious, try this - watch for a tint shift to yellow. If your L4 and above are noticeably warmer or greener than before, it's a sure sign the battery is somewhere around 3.2V and you should swap it.

Click to expand...

From level 7, the Arc steps down to approx 1/5 the initial output between the 2 - 2.5 minute mark, Isn't that a bit early to start swapping a battery?

That's the thermal step-down, not the battery step-down.
Battery step-down goes 1 level down. Thermal always goes to L3.

i see, thanks for the clarification. It does sound difficult to tell.

I was referring to drainage of primary cells. I was goofing around with my light one night taking childish joy in level 7 and the strobe feature. My neighbors must think I'm nuts. A few nights later I took out my light and it barely fired. The battery, a Surefire CR123 was kaput.

Always carry backup cells with this light. The regulation circuit is very efficient and there is little warning of battery failure. When it falls out of regulation it falls hard and fast.

kelmo ... this could have been the "Sudden Death Syndrome" of a CR123 and completely unrelated to the Arc6.
SF123 do this from time to time, and IIRC CPF experts agreed that this might be some protection kicking in, but I think nobody really knows.

bernie

I'd strongly suggest using rechargables, non-protected if at all possible.

L6 and L7 can draw some really huge currents - as much as 1.5-4A, AFAIR (i think Peter wrote a neat little table of per-level current requirements somewhere around here). Most CR123 primaries can sustain only around 1A of continuous discharge.

Thinking about getting an Arc 6. Does the piston work like a McGizmo PD-S (i.e., press is momentary only) or like a Nightcore Smart PD (i.e., push for on and push for off)?

should be like a McGizmo PD

Mayo

It works just like a McGizmo PD but it has the ability to access all three programmable levels via the tailcap for momentary function.

:)> said:

It works just like a McGizmo PD but it has the ability to access all three programmable levels via the tailcap for momentary function.

Click to expand...

How do you differ between the two higher levels with the piston? I know to get from mechanical 1 to mechanical 2, you press a little harder...what about the third level?

I take it you guys recommend the light?

You press hard and fast for the 3rd level.

The same for constant on, you twist fast.

I really like this light!

I am kelmo and I endorse this light.

kelmo said:

You press hard and fast for the 3rd level.
The same for constant on, you twist fast.

Click to expand...

Just to elaborate a bit more on this - you press/twist "straight through" stage 1, all the way to stage 2. Like slamming on the brakes.