Improved version, Lumens Factory D26 Led Module

There had been some issues with the first version of the Lumens Factory D26 Led Module: Link
- Gap between head and body with the outer spring installed
- No function without the outer spring installed
- The led was not correct soldered
- The driver board did not fit correct into the brass housing


Yesterday I got two additional D26 modules (improved version) from Mark (Lumens Factory).
One was not glued (for a look inside).




Disclaimer:



Comparison: Surefire 60L -- Lumens Factory D26



D26 Modules installed.
The small gap between head and body (approx. 0,5 mm) is ok. Without this gap there is not enough pressure for a correct electrical contakt.
(The Surefire P60L module don´t need this gap because of the installed outer spring)


D26 old version (left) vs D26 improved version (right)
The driver board of the improved version fits exact.
Because of the three solder points the thermal contact to the light-body is not optimal



D26 old version (left) vs D26 improved version (right)
The Led of the old version was not soldered and came off easily. Soldering of the improved version is perfect



Two smaller issues:
- (A) the wires are very close to the led-board
- (B) the distance between led-board and brass housing is too big (too much thermal paste, thermal contact is not optimal)




Regulation
Lumens-Factory says: 3,6V-13V, Regulated Input

The D26 module was installed in a Surefire C2 and connected to a regulated power supply (batteries removed).
As you can see, the module works nice above 4,5 V input.





Thermal management
Because I was a bit skeptical about the thermal management of the module, I´ve made a continuous one hour test.
The module was installed in a Surefire C2 and connected to a power supply at 5V regulated.
Result: no issues found, the thermal mangement is ok





Conclusion:
The improved version of the Lumens Factory D26 led-module is ok.
- bright, good throw, useable spillbeam
- good regulation above 4,5 V
- no thermal issues found

Thank you SO much for that review. I've been waiting for more info on these revised modules. Sounds promising.

How's the tint on your new one(s)? I received two new ones from Mark and I swear both are green as Shrek!

One is pure white and the other is slightly greenish.
The pure white is approx. 5-10% brighter and came with a blue marker on the led:

Very good review. The question that I have is whether or not the units in the D36 size pills will have better throw and beam pattern than the ones in the D26 or will it not make any difference at all? This is a general question, not asking you to answer it here. I may have to get the original M90 Rattlesnake flashlight to drop in a D36 and compare it to my Solarforce L2 units with R2 pill to see how they compare.

But if some one where to get a D36 pill that already had the proper size host to put it in and do a direct comparison of beamshots, that would be great.

:thumbsup:

openbolt1 said:

How's the tint on your new one(s)? I received two new ones from Mark and I swear both are green as Shrek!

Click to expand...

That just does it for me. Just when things look better, something else comes up. :green:

I'll just take my chances with $14 DX ones.

Its funny how the very affordable DX bulbs are such a good buy.

Yeah the revised modules are well improved, albeit I didn't really have too much of an issue with the original one I got. I did get a brass washer with my latest one just in case it still had fitting issues. All in all, I think Mark and crew have done well in making improvements and putting out a solid product. :thumbsup:

Got my replacement last week. I don't have the knowledge that some of you do. My two Malkoff's, (M60 and M30), also have a slight gap between the bezel and body as does my new D26. From what I have learned this tells me that I definitely have contact with the body of my light. The M60 is in Surefire C2 with 2 AW RCR123's and McC2S converted Z41/60 ohm resistor. M30 is in Aleph 1X123 body with Dspeck brass E2C adapter, McTC tailcap, McE2S/60 ohm resistor using Surefire primary battery, as rechargeables have short runtime in this light, and 6p bezel. Lumens Factory D26 is in Surefire 6p with A19 adapter using 3 AW RCR123's and McC2S converted Z41/60 ohm resistor. None of these lights use the outer spring and all three flashlights work flawlessly! All I did was put a slim O-ring in the very small gap to keep dirt out. I am very pleased with my replacement D26 and the service I recieved from Lumens Factory. I can live with a little gap as long as I know I have a light that IS GOING TO WORK!!! :twothumbs

How would you rate output, beam quality etc compared to your malkoffs?

streetmaster said:

That just does it for me. Just when things look better, something else comes up. :green:

I'll just take my chances with $14 DX ones.

Click to expand...

Although I'm not 100% happy with my LumensFactory drop in it is still better than any I've tried from DX...

Mine is also a bit green though :mecry:

Sverre

NoFair said:

Although I'm not 100% happy with my LumensFactory drop in it is still better than any I've tried from DX...

Mine is also a bit green though :mecry:

Sverre

Click to expand...

The construction may be better, but if it has poor tint it doesn't really matter does it? It's not worth double the price to me. My DX R2 drop-in has a nice creamy white tint. I was hoping the LF modules would have that tint along with their good build quality and better spot focus.

You guy's with the green tint LF drop-ins, are they the normal ones or the "select tint" warmer ones?

The select tint LF drop-in I have is pure white.

My green one is a select tint.

The slight greenish tint is actually pretty good outside, but looks pretty bad on white walls. Mine is a lot greener when on low batteries.

Sverre

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the nice comments and I am very happy that you guys are pleased with the revised version of the module and we will continue to work hard on upcoming products.

As for tints, I know it can be quite subjective, we can only check the colour temperature of the LED but it doesn't know what kind of colour it has to the human eye.

I will add a QC process to the LED modules to have our staff check the selected tints with their trained eyes before shipping.

Thanks for helping us improve the product further, we care about your views and comments.

Cheers,

Mark

Who wants to send me one of their "green" tinted modules for testing? I can measure lumens directly and compare tint to Malkoff M60s/Fs and Solarforce R2/Q5s? Any takers?

I just tested the new EagleTac for wacbzz. thead is posted.

Mine is a select tint, it is very white. To answer harddrive the D26 has a smaller hotspot than either of the Malkoffs so it does throw further. I have compared them side by side. The spill isn't as big, or bright, but it is very smooth and seems to be artifact free. It definitely has better beam quality than my B.O.G. Super Premium that cost twice as much! The B.O.G. did not have a gap between bezel and body. When I shook the light it would flash on and off. Took batteries out and I could hear it rattle in the flashlight when I shook it. I fixed it by cutting one loop off an outer module spring I had laying around, and inserted this in 6p under the module. This caused a slight gap about as wide as a matchbook cover is thick, but it is tight, does not flash or rattle, and works perfectly. This leads me to believe that the small gap that concerns some people, is really a good thing IMHO. The Lumens Factory D26 That I received is a great module and I am considering buying another one!

Yeah the inside contact issue has been a common issue among many aftermarket P60LED dropins. I know that Gene Malkoff purposely made his module longer to compensate for the variances in Surefire flashlight manufacturing tolerances as well as the varying P60 compatible flashlights out there. For the common P60LED design that the LF D26 takes from, the solution for this IS suppose to be the outter spring...but of course in using that very spring, you will get a gap in Surefire flashlights. One solution of course is to cut down the outter spring for use in Surefires if your module rattles and doesn't make good internal contact. The issue I have with the steel springs that every uses is that they are poor heat conductors...so I've improvised by simply blobbing more solder into the areas where solder already is (the solder that usually holds the driver to the pill) until there is enough mass to make contact with the inside of the flashlight body. Granted that can be a very ugly solution, I have found it works quite well and sufficiently transfers heat from the pill to the body. Another similar solution would be to use some sort of washer placed inside the flashlight body, but I haven't myself come across a washer that doesn't leave a noticeable gap between the head and body. I did get a copper washer with my last LF D26, but I haven't had the need to use it yet and so I haven't tried it to see if it leaves a gap or not.

I really like the revised D26 and I look forward to future improvements from them.

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm looking forward to mine arriving. I see LF are about the release the 3.7 module too. That is said to be driven at 1.1-1.2A so should be even brighter than this module :thumbsup:

I somehow managed to snag a mirror finish select tint.......
OK so I nearly begged Mark for a pre-production sample.

The fit is just fine. Throws a ton. Brightest spot of any drop in I have for sure. Wish I could buy another but I can't. Since QC rejects so many of the mirror finish Mark doesn't want to absorb the extra cost and sell them. I figured he could just charge more but he didn't want to do that either.
As far as I know there are only 4 more out there.

I will have to make a few beamshots when I find the charger for my camera!