EagleTac P10A Comparison Review

On loan from 4sevens is this EagleTac P10A - 1x AA flashlight using Cree Q5 emitter with two levels and forward/tactical clicky.

The "P" in the model # stands for "Personal" -
EagleTac have another range designated "T" for "Tactical" which use lithium batteries.

The "P" models have narrower heads for more compactness -
whereas the wider heads of the "T" series are for wider side-spill and better throw.

Size -

The narrower "P" heads relatively speaking are still substatially wider than the typical 1AA light - which makes the P10A bulkier than other 1AA lights.

Head -


EagleTac claims 130 lumens for the Hi mode -

vs. Fenix LD10 on Turbo both on NiMH (Kodak Pre-Charged)

the EagleTac is just a bit brighter - Fenix LD10 is rated 120 lumens on Turbo.

vs. Fenix L1D-Q5 on Turbo (also rated 120 lumens) both NiMH

Both the Fenix beams are smoother with warmer tints.

vs. NiteCore D10 (Q5) both Max and NiMH

close, the EagleTac might still just have it? The NiteCore D10 (Q5) is rated 130 torch or OTF lumens - so, maybe the bigger head gives the EagleTac better efficiency?

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS both Max and NiMH

Very close the JET-1 IBS also claims 130 lumens - this time in comparison the EagleTac beam is smoother than the JETbeam.

How about the "Lo" level? It kind of looked like the Medium on the Fenix -

Lo vs. Fenix LD10 Medium

The Fenix LD10 medium is brighter than the EagleTac Lo.
Fenix rates 47 lumens medium, EagleTac rates 37 lumens Lo.

Lo vs. Fenix L1D-Q5 Medium -

Fenix L1D-Q5 medium looks brighter still - rated 53 lumens.

Index to Follow Up Parts -

Comparison with 1x CR123 lights in Post #4

Size in hand Comparison - Post #7

Current draw - Post #9

Standardized Stairway beamshot - Post #11

Comparisons with 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 14500 - post #21

Thanks for the review!

Very nice review.

My P10A has been very reliable in the short amount of time I've owned it.

The output is what I'd expect from the better 1xCR123 celled lights out there. Keep having to remind myself it's a AA light. Works great with an Energizer E2 lithium.

Monocrom said:

The output is what I'd expect from the better 1xCR123 celled lights out there. Keep having to remind myself it's a AA light.

Click to expand...

Interesting observation - I was thinking along those lines too.

People may have laughed at a 1x AA "Tactical" light (note EagleTac does not designate this as a Tactical - but in their Personal series).

However it is rated 130 lumens on Hi which is twice as bright as those "ultra bright" 2x lithium CR123 xenon lights like the SureFire 6P and G2 or Streamlight Scorpions of this world - it is actually brighter than the now legendary and one time "ridiculously bright" 3x CR123 xenon SureFire 9P (rated at 105 lumens)

It is "bright", but pretty comparable to those other 120-130 lumen 1AA lights above.

So how does it compare to 1x CR123 lights?

Pretty well....

Size -


Head -


vs. Fenix PD20 on primary CR123 Turbo

yes, the Fenix PD20 is noticably brighter than the EagleTac P10A - but not dramatically so - afterall the PD20 is rated at 180 lumens some 38% brighter - measurable, just perceptible when compared side-by-side - but practically in real use?

vs. NiteCore EX10 on primary CR123 Max

again the EX10 is brighter - but caveat this is that over-achieving EX10 which caused all the fuss in NiteCore Lumens Rating - I thought it was faulty due to unexpected turn-offs - but it did not do it for the month before, and hasn't done it since - including a runtime on a RCR123.

So the EagleTac P10A does not quite match the two CR123 lights - but in practical usage probably one is not going to see that much difference - not in any typical indoors scenario - but probably outdoor at distance - where the bigger reflector of the EagleTac might give it some advantage.

You always do great reviews of interesting lights - thanks again.

I find it amazing what the p10a and p10a2 can accomplish with AA batteries. It gives me the option of using safe, hassle-free NiMH rechargeables, lithiums for max power and low temp operation [great for backpacking] or easy to find alkalines in a pinch.

UnknownVT said:

So how does it compare to 1x CR123 lights?

Pretty well....

Size -

Click to expand...

Except for my Novatac 120P, I'm generally not a fan of 1xCR123 lights. One reason for that is illustrated in your pic. Many 1xCR123 lights are just too short in my hands. I can lay the P10A across my palm, and just the smallest bit of the light protrudes from either end. I like being able to wrap all four fingers around the light, with my thumb on top of the forward clickie.

Monocrom said:

Except for my Novatac 120P, I'm generally not a fan of 1xCR123 lights. One reason for that is illustrated in your pic. Many 1xCR123 lights are just too short in my hands. I can lay the P10A across my palm, and just the smallest bit of the light protrudes from either end. I like being able to wrap all four fingers around the light, with my thumb on top of the forward clickie.

Click to expand...

hmmm... interesting again -

I too have a preference for 1x AA lights both for the commonality of AA batteries as well as for me better ergonomics/size -

But the 1x CR123 aren't that small - they seem to be relative to the EagleTac P10A - because that light is big for a 1x AA
- in fact the 1x CR123 light seem to fit your description - in my hands.......
even the dimunitive NiteCore EX10 -
probably the Fenix PD20 is the best fit for your description -
although the NiteCore D10 is my at home EDC



my hands are average-y - long fingers perhaps on the slim side.

Current draw?

Approx runtime with intermittent use?

Above at both levels, please... THANKS!

Excellent review, VT

roymail said:

Current draw?
Above at both levels, please... THANKS!

Click to expand...

Using NiMH (Kodak Pre-Charged) 1.277V o-c

Hi = 2.15A
Lo = 0.26A

wow 2.15A is heavy draw for a single AA.

I just got in from a walk w the dog. I had the p10a2 w me. It has become my favorite outdoor light, replacing a Lux V that goes through batteries too quickly.

Standardized Stairway beamshot -

Been lurking around and have found your very practical reviews quite informative. Especially this one, since I personally find these 1xAA lights very interesting. It would be nice to see how the P10A on 14500 compares with the 1xCR123 lights you stacked it up against. The numbers posted on light-reviews are quite impressive. It would also be nice to see if the P10A output sags on the 14500 as significantly as the nightcore D10, as Selfbuilt found in his review.

LED_Thrift said:

wow 2.15A is heavy draw for a single AA.

I just got in from a walk w the dog. I had the p10a2 w me. It has become my favorite outdoor light, replacing a Lux V that goes through batteries too quickly.

Click to expand...

if u have a bad nimh u'll get 1.75a, 0.35a
it's good to check ur batt wth a dmm.

u can also use it without a reflector for a no hotspot beam

RayG said:

It would be nice to see how the P10A on 14500 compares with the 1xCR123 lights you stacked it up against. The numbers posted on light-reviews are quite impressive. It would also be nice to see if the P10A output sags on the 14500 as significantly as the nightcore D10, as Selfbuilt found in his review.

Click to expand...

According to EagleTac P10A specs - the batteries are only AA's (alkaline, NiMH or 1.7V lithium) no mention was made for 14500.

I also asked 4sevens who looked it up and said the P10A was not spec'd for 14500 usage.

However I suspect/speculate that EagleTac, Fenix and Olights may have some "family ties" -
which could mean that the P10A, P10A2 and P10C may (guess only) share the same head(s)? -

BUT according to the EagleTac P10A features - it uses the A400 LED Driver.

whereas -
EagleTac P10A2 (2x AA) uses the A800 LED Driver
EagleTac P10C (1x CR123) uses the L800 LED Driver

So apparently the heads are different.

I did this.....

Tried the P10A2 (2x AA) head on the P10A (1x AA) body -
this is safe since the P10A2 head handles 3V -
that combo seemed to work fine -
ie: the P10A2 head on 1x AA looks just like the regular P10A -
note: this is on a look-see basis only.

So with a bit of trepidation - I tried the P10A (1x AA) head on the P10A2 (2x AA) body -
not safe, since that's driving the 1x AA head with 2x AA
(I used recently charged Kodak Pre-Charged LSD NiMH) -
this also worked fine, in both Lo, then Hi modes -
but I only had this combination on for a very short time just to see if it worked.

Currently I dare NOT try a 3.7V Li-Ion 14500 with the P10A
- unless 4sevens or EagleTac says it's OK to try

UnknownVT said:

According to EagleTac P10A specs - the batteries are only AA's (alkaline, NiMH or 1.7V lithium) no mention was made for 14500.

I also asked 4sevens who looked it up and said the P10A was not spec'd for 14500 usage.

However I suspect/speculate that EagleTac, Fenix and Olights may have some "family ties" -
which could mean that the P10A, P10A2 and P10C may (guess only) share the same head(s)? -

BUT according to the EagleTac P10A features - it uses the A400 LED Driver.

whereas -
EagleTac P10A2 (2x AA) uses the A800 LED Driver
EagleTac P10C (1x CR123) uses the L800 LED Driver

So apparently the heads are different.

I did this.....

Tried the P10A2 (2x AA) head on the P10A (1x AA) body -
this is safe since the P10A2 head handles 3V -
that combo seemed to work fine -
ie: the P10A2 head on 1x AA looks just like the regular P10A -
note: this is on a look-see basis only.

So with a bit of trepidation - I tried the P10A (1x AA) head on the P10A2 (2x AA) body -
not safe, since that's driving the 1x AA head with 2x AA
(I used recently charged Kodak Pre-Charged LSD NiMH) -
this also worked fine, in both Lo, then Hi modes -
but I only had this combination on for a very short time just to see if it worked.

Currently I dare NOT try a 3.7V Li-Ion 14500 with the P10A
- unless 4sevens or EagleTac says it's OK to try

Click to expand...

Wow, thanks. I was just going by this review, in case you have not seen it. I seems he also ran the P10A on a 14500 for an extended period to get runtimes.

RayG said:

Wow, thanks. I was just going by this review, in case you have not seen it. I seems he also ran the P10A on a 14500 for an extended period to get runtimes.

Click to expand...

I have noticed he also runs the Fenix lights on 14500 or 16340 batteries also, with no mention of using the 3.0v batteries.

I think I'll ask in the lightrveviews fourm for confirmation.

RayG said:

Wow, thanks. I was just going by this review, in case you have not seen it. I seems he also ran the P10A on a 14500 for an extended period to get runtimes.

Click to expand...

Yes that's why I asked 4sevens.

It appears that the sample used for test was fine on 14500 -
my short try-out of the P10A on 2x AA seem to indicate it's probably OK -
so I suspect it's probably OK -
but as the light is a loaner - I can only "risk" it if 4sevens or EagleTac say it's OK.

UnknownVT said:

Yes that's why I asked 4sevens.

It appears that the sample used for test was fine on 14500 -
my short try-out of the P10A on 2x AA seem to indicate it's probably OK -
so I suspect it's probably OK -
but as the light is a loaner - I can only "risk" it if 4sevens or EagleTac say it's OK.

Click to expand...

I emailed Eagletac and this is the reply from Nicole:

1) The P10A circuit can ran 14500, but it's not optimized. You will get 200-ish lumen at start and drops to about 130 lumen before flat-regulation kicks-in. When the input voltage is higher than the output voltage, the P10A circuit acts as a direct drive. You should have no issue using 14500 as long as it's protected with PCB at the bottom.

Another reviewer says it won't work with AW protected 14500's due to the shorter anode (?) contact, but is ok with Ultrafires. Since most use the AW's (I do), then this may be moot. OTOH, the light-reviews article on the P10A used an AW 14500, so I don't know how true this is.

I also asked about whether the lens cracking issue (in a separate review) had been resolved...


2) The lens damage we believe is just individual cases. We try numerous copies from various models in performing the dropping test and they are all fine. I will report back if I have any news from our engineers. If anything breaks, we will replace it for free.

And if I may add, the reply came the same day.

Vincent, how hard is it to remove the pocket clip? Can you get it off without any damage to the finish?

Also, I actually like the larger size for practical use. Thanks for a great review! :thumbsup: