Fenix TK10...very low output...need help!

My OD green TK10 is providing very low light output. I thought my Surefire 123's were possibly low but when I put the batteries into another TK10 it was like night and day. I attempted to clean all of the battery contacts with some isopropyl alcohol but same low output!?! Comparing the two lights it almost looks as if the OD green TK10 was on the low output mode. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!

Something is wrong it seems. Try another set of new batteries and perhaps make sure that the switch has been screwed tightly into the tailcap, thats all I can think of.

There's not much to say here...

Try a set of new batteries, if it doesn't work normally, contact the dealer and send it back to have it fixed.

Cells, that work in one flashlight must not necessary work in another one. A few weeks ago, I tried to trigger the low-voltage warning on my PD30 by shakig it violently and hitting the hand I had it it against he other one. There were 2 Varta inside, fresh cells, perhaps 5 minutes runtime. I succeeded, the PD30 began to strobe rapidly and would not do anything oher with those 2 cells anymore. I was afraid I could have damaged the flashlight and changed the cells with those in my TK10, not so fresh cells, but another brand, slightly thicker. Result : Both lights work flawlessly!

Another Varta story : 2 days ago, I took my Eagletac T10C2 to an event to test it. The runtime with the 2 Vartas was perhaps 20 minutes in total, when the light dimmed down to less than low output. At home, I provided new cells, the T10C2 works again. I tested the cells in the P2D CE. With the first cell it works on all mode, turbo included, whle it only lit up once with the other cell which is completely depleted. I winder how it is possible, both cells came right out of their package and their expire date is 2016. I won't buy these again, nothing but problems with them while my no-name cells that cost half the price have all worked as they should until now!

So : Feed your TK10 with new cells, there's a good chance that it'll light up your night again!

Greets,

Henk

Will do! So far I've tried two different sets of cells with the same result. The light seems to be running so low that the light appears very blue, almost purple! I bought it used off of the CPFM so I'm not sure who I would contact for a repair or replacement. I'm not sure Fenix would honor a repair of a previously owned flashlight.

Well sounds like you may have been duped. I'd contact that member and see what they say... you can always start a jeer thread on CPFM if you've exhausted other options. You can always try and contact Fenix or a dealer and see if they will help you out.

I reviewed the Fenix video which walks you through the cleaning and basic maintenance. Still no luck. I will contact the member and find out where he purchased it from before any jeering occurs! I suppose it's possible I just have a faulty emitter! Hopefully Fenix can get it fixed and back on duty ASAP!

Thats really disappointing. I hope that you find a fix soon. The TK10 is a great light.

It sounds like something is wrong with the light where it would need repair. Was it this way when you got it or did it work fine after using it a while? I would not start a jeer or say you have been cheated until you know all the facts. If it was working at the time you bought it off this person and it has just failed, that is not the fault of the seller. Anything can fail at any time. I do not know what Fenix's warranty is, but I would imagine it is good even after it has passed hands. Does the TK10 have a replaceable LED like some other lights? If you have tried cleaning all the contacts in the light, try removing the tailcap, and trying to make the light come on by putting a paper clip on one end of the battery, and the other end on the outer lip of the light. If the results are the same, I would say your LED has gone bad. If it comes on nice and bright, the switch may be the culprit. Hope this helps!

Mike

Maybe you can contact Fenix Store and see what they recommend.

Have you tried using a piece of metal and connecting the batteries directly to the body? If the light is brighter without the tailcap then the tailcap may be broken.

The LED turning blue can be an indication of very bad thermal transfer and the LED is overheating.

the blue usually means overcooked or the phosphor has already degraded. Coupled with your lack of output, I'd say it's toasted

Sounds like you got a bum deal, jeer worthy.

I would tend to agree with the LED being semi toasted. The light was never as bright as I though it should be. My roommate has the same light and his has always been brighter. I am not up to any jeering just yet. I bought this from someone on the forum with a very clean reputation and I don't think he was intentionally trying to rip me off! Lights are mechanical and things go bad! That's the nature of the beast! I guess this is a perfect test to see how Fenix's warranty will live up! I know how Surefire would handle it!!!

BLue or purple is often a bad sign for the LED and can mean it was not well heatsinked and degraded. Is the light getting dimmer?
I once had a SF U2 where the emitter degraded like that until it merely glowed.


Then ... about the dead batteries where suddenly a light won't work anymore that has been working fine before ... way before the cells should be dead, and, in case of a 2-cell light, where you find one battery to be dead and the other well alive.
This happens with all brands, and there were quite some cases with SF batts, too. I myself had that happen a few times to me, too.
It was never determined what was going on for certain.

bernie

I have spoke with the seller who stated that he thinks he purchased it through either 4sevens or Fenix store.com I will contact them on Monday to see what they can do. I have a feeling I will be out $55 worth of light. We'll see!

Ask the seller if he had ever used rechargeable 123s in your light.

If he did, try to get him to tell you exactly which ones because it sounds to me like he might have used the incorrect 3.7 volt(nominal) batteries instead of the special 3.0v cells. This overvoltage would explain the shortened life of your emitter and the blue color you describe.



*edit* DISREGARD my comment! ..since carrot isn't posting tonight, I though I would be the distributor of (mis)information this time. lol

The TK10 can use 2xr123.....so that's not an issue

Heck said:

The TK10 can use 2xr123.....so that's not an issue

Click to expand...

+1

I've been running my TK10 with AW 16340s for months with very good results.

Heck said:

The TK10 can use 2xr123.....so that's not an issue

Click to expand...

It can use both types??? ..the 3.0v and the 3.7v?

I was under the impression that this light could only run on primary 123s or the 3.0v Rcr123 only. I don't own one of these lights but I could have sworn I read something to that effect. Please confirm.

TK10s do just fine with 3.7v RCR123s. It's a buck circuit in there, nothing fancy, so they're usually just fine up to 9V, sometimes more.
Some of the single cell lights which use a boost circuit don't like LiIons too much though perhaps you're getting models mixed up, happens to me all the time.

..sure you're right!

I was thinking bass ackwards. The buck is regulating the voltage down to match the Vf of the emitter so a couple volts higher wouldn't make a lick of difference. It's funny you mentioned the point about the single cell batteries, those are the ones I've been reading up on lately. I must be getting information overload due to all this reading! lol Thanks.