Heat Sink compound question
- Thread starter 737mech
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MWClint
Enlightened
na..thats the opposite of the stuff you want to use.
The dow corning pdf data sheet doesnt mention anything about thermal
properties, so i would stay away from it. looks like it's just a fancy dielectric
grease. something you would use on spark plug terminals and the like.
if you are in a pinch..radio shack sells small tubes of heatsink thermal grease for $4..but i wouldnt dare use this stuff for the p7->heatsink connection.
you would want to use this stuff between the heatsink and the mag body.
for the p7->heatsink
you need to use Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive.
photonfanatic and 4sevens both sell it..among various others in the marketplace.
It's cheap and it goes a long way..i'd say a pair of tubes is good for ~20 leds.
The dow corning pdf data sheet doesnt mention anything about thermal
properties, so i would stay away from it. looks like it's just a fancy dielectric
grease. something you would use on spark plug terminals and the like.
if you are in a pinch..radio shack sells small tubes of heatsink thermal grease for $4..but i wouldnt dare use this stuff for the p7->heatsink connection.
you would want to use this stuff between the heatsink and the mag body.
for the p7->heatsink
you need to use Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive.
photonfanatic and 4sevens both sell it..among various others in the marketplace.
It's cheap and it goes a long way..i'd say a pair of tubes is good for ~20 leds.
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PhantomPhoton
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yeah, arctic alumina or thermal epoxy is how I go. I'm sure there's even fancier stuff out there but it's worked well for me.
By the way 737mech, you know we're doing a get together in Seattle tomorrow? my sig line has a link to the details.
By the way 737mech, you know we're doing a get together in Seattle tomorrow? my sig line has a link to the details.
Justin Case
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2008
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- 3,797
1. If thermal conductivity is of primary concern, then Arctic Silver compound is the way to go (short of reflow soldering, which has far higher thermal conductivity than any of these Arctic materials), especially if the heat sink is anodized so that shorting the P7's slug is not a issue. Then you can use regular epoxy to fix the P7 in place.
2. Next best in terms of thermal conductivity is to use Arctic Silver thermal adhesive (epoxy).
3. Third is Arctic Alumina compound, and then fix the P7 in place with regular epoxy as in #1 above.
4. Last is Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive (epoxy). Many have had success using AA adhesive, so as long as you use a thin layer, even AA adhesive should be fine. AA compound and AA adhesive are also a lot less expensive than the AS counterparts. The AS stuff gives you a little more margin for error in terms of layer thickness.
2. Next best in terms of thermal conductivity is to use Arctic Silver thermal adhesive (epoxy).
3. Third is Arctic Alumina compound, and then fix the P7 in place with regular epoxy as in #1 above.
4. Last is Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive (epoxy). Many have had success using AA adhesive, so as long as you use a thin layer, even AA adhesive should be fine. AA compound and AA adhesive are also a lot less expensive than the AS counterparts. The AS stuff gives you a little more margin for error in terms of layer thickness.
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