p7 led mod for maglite

Can someone give me a list of all the parts I need to put a p7 led in a maglite and where I can get them. What is the voltage of this led and how many amps does it draw?

:welcome: There are heaps of articles maglite p7 - Google Search
No real need to start a new thread this may be the most helpful Maglite SSC P7. How to. A sort of guide. - CandlePowerForums
My 'buy list' for a Maglite P7 mod - CandlePowerForums
Use the search function or the google search box at the top of the page.
Norm

Another how-to.

Download's MagRing2 kit for 2 x 18650 in Mag2C.

NotBrightNuf said:

Can someone give me a list of all the parts I need to put a p7 led in a maglite and where I can get them. What is the voltage of this led and how many amps does it draw?

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The list of parts will vary depending on your needs. For my p7 m*g I used a 2d host because I prefer the smaller size, while others may use a larger host to get more run time. Here is a list that will give you a rough idea of what is needed.

1. Host (in my case 2D)

2. Battery pack or carrier. I have a 2xD lion pack from KD similar to this (they don't sell the pack/charger I have now but this is similar).
you could also run the light using an adapter like this with 6 AA cells.

Another popular solution when it comes to batteries is to go with 3 C or D NIMH cells and direct drive the light but with this option you need to be careful. You need an emitter with a high voltage forward and you have to let the cells rest for a couple of hours after charging them before use.

3. Driver board. With the extra battery voltage provided by the 2 li-ions you need to regulate the current. This is one of the boards I have used, because of the 3 modes.( You will need to heatsink it though) I am currently using a board similar to the one in this thread using 2x amc7135 boards.

4. Emitter. here( which is a good place since you will need a heat sink any way) or even here

5. Heat sink. Britelumens has them here ( looks like only C size are in stock.) Or 4sevens has them here

6. You will also need some thermal epoxy or to attach the emitter to the heat sink. I used this you may find it cheaper on ebay though.

7. UCL lens. (optional) I use the 52.1x 1.90mm from Flashlightlens.com

8. You may also need some other misc parts like wire etc, and I use one of these with the 2D li-ion and the 6AA converter.

As for the last part of your question the very short version of your answer is about 3.7 volts and 2.8 amps.

The voltage needed for the emitter is expressed in the last letter of the bin code ie "CSWOI" "I" is the expression for the vf ( voltage forward) "I" bin is a bout 3.25-3.5 volts if I am not mistaken. An emitter labeled "CSWOJ" would have a higher vf of about 3.5-3.75. Well if your head is not swimming yet than great... And good luck with your light.

What's with the different model numbers for the p7? Are they different colors or something? I noticed on the heats sink you linked that it has a recessed place on the bottom to put the driver, so any driver will this heat sink? I already ordered a 52.1mm borofloat lens from lighthound, is there really a difference between this lens and the one you mentioned? I have been looking at drivers and there are many to choose from, which is the best in your opinion or are they all about the same? I have heard the blue shark is a good driver. Will these drivers be able to handle 6 11500mAh accu power d cells?

The UCL window has anti reflective which lets more light through the the Borofloat lens.

As for LED bin codes, look here.

The different drivers might have different modes, different efficiencies, buck or boost, different size and so on. If you want to use 6 calls, you'll need a buck driver.

I would add an orange peel reflector. The stock M@g reflector will focus to a tighter spot but has artifacts in the beam. Do NOT crank down this reflector. It will crush the LED.

NotBrightNuf said:

What's with the different model numbers for the p7? Are they different colors or something?

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I don't know a lot about the bin coding on these, but what I can tell you is this. The first letter in the code is what I believe is call the luminous flux ( how bright the emitter is) the second three letters are the color of light, and the fourth is the voltage forward. For example. If your emitter is a "CSWOI" the "C" is the level of output your emitter is capable of. I cant find the chart right now ( maybe someone else could post a link) but if I recall correctly "C" bin is 700-800 lumen max, and "D" is 8-900 max. The "SWO" would be the color. Click on the link that Gunner12 posted and go to about the 9th chart down and click on it (SSC Z-power) this will give you an idea of what the colors look like. SWO is one of my personal favorite, but I have not tried them all. SXO is not bad either. And of course "I" is the voltage the emitter requires as I mentioned in previous post.

I noticed on the heats sink you linked that it has a recessed place on the bottom to put the driver, so any driver will this heat sink?

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I'm not sure I made a separate heat sink for the KD driver.

I already ordered a 52.1mm borofloat lens from lighthound, is there really a difference between this lens and the one you mentioned?

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In my opinion that will be fine I think (just what I have been told) that the borofloat has roughly a 94-97% light transparency and the UCL is like 98 or 99%? I use borofloat lenses in some of my high powered incandescent lights, and they are great.

I have been looking at drivers and there are many to choose from, which is the best in your opinion or are they all about the same? I have heard the blue shark is a good driver. Will these drivers be able to handle 6 11500mAh accu power d cells?

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I don't have any experience with the shark. I will say that all drivers are not created equal. It just depends on your needs. How many brightness level you need? Cost? etc. I have yet to find a driver I would call a favorite ( I have only used a couple) and while I would recommend a quality driver if you can afford one, it seems like you should be able to get a good driver for less money than I have seen the shark priced at ( 50$ for the ones I saw :shrug.