Solarforce L2 vs Olight M30

Does anyone have any comparison beamshots?

I bought the Solarforce while I was debating whether to buy the Olight but I am so impressed with the L2 I'm not sure if I need the M30.

Or am I talking rubbish? :sigh:

If your impressed with the L2 The M30 will blow you away,there are several threads on these lights in the forums .

reeso said:

Does anyone have any comparison beamshots?

I bought the Solarforce while I was debating whether to buy the Olight but I am so impressed with the L2 I'm not sure if I need the M30.

Or am I talking rubbish? :sigh:

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L2 is a single die led and M30 is a quad die led, there is a very huge difference in light output.
I have not done any beamshoots with the L2, but it will probably be close to CL1H, TK11 and M20 in beam profile if you check this beamshoot: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235243

Depends, what do you need to use it for?

sorry I don't have an olight M30 for picks for you.

I definately agree the L2 can be very impressive.

re: do you need an M30 now? Well, did you really need the L2? The standard CPF answer is 'both' when someone asks about two different lights.

What drop-in do you have for the L2? I feel that a solid 18650 or 2x(r)cr123 light can provide sufficient output across many situations. Do you have a pressing need for long throw, big run times, direct access to tactical strobe (M30 feature).
I favour using single cells to eliminate any concern over differential charges across multiple cells (and subsequent venting with flames). I carry additional cells when I plan on using my lights for a while. Unless I'm diving it's simple to replace the cells (and like any good cpf'er I have back-up's for the replacements, all of them tested before hand with my dmm)

Best,
L

Thanks for the replies guys.

linger, I just have the bog standard L2 from ebay. I don't need the M30 at all. I don't need half of my torches but I WANT them :naughty:

HKJ said:

L2 is a single die led

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Sorry HKJ, solarforce L2 is a p60 host, the model does not indicate what emittor is inside. I run an L2 with an mc-e drop-in.
I totally agree that multi-die led's are a level above single die led's. The wall of light P7's and MC-E's is definately in the 'blow you away' category.

reeso said:

I just have the bog standard L2 from ebay.

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So that may suggest a q5 or r2, but really the light was designed (copied) for diversity.

What does the sticker say when you take the bezel off?
http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart.php?cat_id=2&sub_cat_id=7#
(see this page for sticker examples)

reeso said:

I don't need the M30 at all. I don't need half of my torches but I WANT them :naughty:

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Yes I understand completely. Yes, you are talking complete rubbish. As am I.lovecpf

Get a Nailbender drop-in (b/s/t custom builds in this forum), I'd recommend a warm-tint and you'll see things you've never thought possible with an led (warm tints reveal the outdoor world)

Best,
L

linger said:

Sorry HKJ, solarforce L2 is a p60 host, the model does not indicate what emittor is inside. I run an L2 with an mc-e drop-in.
I totally agree that multi-die led's are a level above single die led's. The wall of light P7's and MC-E's is definately in the 'blow you away' category.

Click to expand...

I do have an L2 and assumed you had bought a Solarforce module for it (Solarforce only has Q5 and R2 modules).
The MC-E module you have might not have a very high output, cooling in P60 hosts is a bit difficult. A dedicated MC-E/P7 light usual has much better cooling and can run at a higher output level for longer time.

linger said:

So that may suggest a q5 or r2, but really the light was designed (copied) for diversity.

What does the sticker say when you take the bezel off?

Best,
L

Click to expand...

It just says R2.

I'll take a look at Nailbender's drop-in thread - thanks.

HKJ said:

(Solarforce only has Q5 and R2 modules).

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Solarforce L2B-MCE
Solarforce 450 Lumens CREE MCE LED 3 MODE Flashlight

Sorry, not quite.

HKJ said:

The MC-E module you have might not have a very high output, cooling in P60 hosts is a bit difficult. A dedicated MC-E/P7 light usual has much better cooling and can run at a higher output level for longer time.

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I understand. It's usually run on high only while cycling so there's a fair bit of cooling involved. Suggestions / resources for improving the cooling / thermal path?
Best,
Linger

linger said:

Solarforce L2B-MCE
Solarforce 450 Lumens CREE MCE LED 3 MODE Flashlight

Sorry, not quite.

Click to expand...

It might be the dealer, that just puts in an MC-E module?

Looking at the Solarforce website, I can not see any MC-E modules: http://www.solarforce.hk/PRD/main.jsp

The MCE Dropin is kind of a "same factory" Deal

Solarforce Store gets their parts from different factories and puts them together to sell the $25 combo they have. I remember a customer and member here who got a tailcap, from Solarforce Store, that was off from a normal stock Solarforce L2.

reeso said:

Does anyone have any comparison beamshots?

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Yes (please note that they are not taken the same day)

Garden, about 25 meters to the tree in the middle.
Olight M30 Triton


Solarforce L2


Building, 40 meters.

Olight M30 Triton


Solarforce L2


Both are nice flashlights, but M30 is overall much brighter

jake25 said:

The MCE Dropin is kind of a "same factory" Deal

Solarforce Store gets their parts from different factories and puts them together to sell the $25 combo they have. I remember a customer and member here who got a tailcap, from Solarforce Store, that was off from a normal stock Solarforce L2.

Click to expand...

I am just a bit confused about what reeso wants, he says he has a standard L2 and suddenly it has a quad die led, but he still talks about an R2.
It would be a lot easier if people state all relevant facts when asking a question.

But anyway, when looking at MC-E/P7 lights, I do not believe that P60 is a good solution, I prefer a light where everything is machines for good fit, to improve cooling.

HKJ: I think you're forgetting who the OP is

I agree with you on a P60+MCE thing. Not a great combination, however I have said it and I'll say it again. I think a nice dialed down P7 or MCE to maybe 300-350 lumens for a nice flood, long runtime, low heat dropin would be great.

jirik,
Looking at your beamshots I thought there was something wrong with the throw on the M30 as I couldn't see the bike like in the other picture, then I realized it just isn't there:shrug:

jirik - thanks for the beamshots - very helpful.

HKJ - my L2 just has the R2 that came with it.

reeso said:

jirik - thanks for the beamshots - very helpful.

HKJ - my L2 just has the R2 that came with it.

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The I guess that my answer in #3 post is valid.

Wiggle said:

jirik,
Looking at your beamshots I thought there was something wrong with the throw on the M30 as I couldn't see the bike like in the other picture, then I realized it just isn't there:shrug:

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lol, , that's hilarious.

HKJ, yup, you guessed it right.
Jake25 - thanx for infor re: solarforce store and the drop-ins. Just to give you another piece of news, I too ordered a replacement tailcap from them and when I recieved it last week it fit perfectly.

personal opinion, mc-e's and p7's can do very well in p60 size lights. (i've p60 drop-in, MG PLI (mc-e) and Aurura AK-p7). I certianly don't put mine down and say 'no, that's not sufficient, i'll go back to my q5 or r2.' Maybe specifically designed lights are better, but I do know that what I have is damn good.