N1 in an M6???

After reading js's M6 X-lola thread, and LOVING the MN15/M6 combo, I thought of this...Has anyone tried running 6 volt lamps on the M6 (i.e. using primaries and spacers?) I think tonight, i'm gonna try running an N1 (since it has a tighter spot) in my M6 with a Z20...first serial (no brainer) and then paralell...unless you think running them parallel would be too dangerous...opinions/thoughts? you should get 2.5 hours of (somwewhat brighter) light, in theory, based off js's information...wish me well on my endeavors (grins)

I'm curious what your thoughts will be after using the N1. I don't know if you have been following the development of wquiles' Ph-D M6 project, but he is creating a regulated pack for the M6 that will have 4 different voltage selections. I requested that one of them be optimal for use with the N1 to have a good long running LOLA option. And N1's sell for a song on BST, I'm looking forward to it for sure! https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/215806

Well, got it to work, after checking the continuity on the MB20 and all...lights about the same out-put wise...don't have the time to do a run time test yet...I was more or less curious "If I could...just in case"..and it definitely can be done. Working out the slots in the mb20 to put the batteries in was kinda tricky, but it is explanable, which I'll try to include tomorrow.

Ok, i'm not a circuit board junky, so excuse the terminology...It would appear that two of the rows are "tip positive", and one is "tip negative", so I used my multimeter, and checked for resistance between the top contact points (where the "+" terminal of the battery makes contact with the MB20), and two of them read, while the last one did not, and same for the bottom stack with the negative side of the MB20.

Warning:Read the whole thing before trying it!!!, or POOF!

So once you determine which one is "reversed" (tip negative), you place your 4 cells in the two "tip positive slots", where the MB20 as a whole will read ~6v. If 2 of the cells are accidentally placed in the reversed post, it will read ~9 volts, and the 4th "extra" cell will short, and begin to rapidly over-heat.

So, just make sure you test the contacts, and find out which one is reversed...on mine, it was the post centered with the "RE" in "Sure".

Once again, like leukos pointed out, this isn't an optimal use for the M6, but is a Just in Case set-up that could be used if need be (i.e. your MB20 blows on ya, or something, and yer in the middle of the woods).

Anyone out there willing to do a run time test on it? If not, I'll get around to it eventually, just real busy now.

Bumping this thread because I too was thinking about this option tonight.

What about three parallel stacks of two primaries? Or would this drive an N1 too hard? I got looking at a spare MB20 I have, and thought about hacking it apart and rewiring as 2s3p.

ejot said:

Bumping this thread because I too was thinking about this option tonight.

What about three parallel stacks of two primaries? Or would this drive an N1 too hard? I got looking at a spare MB20 I have, and thought about hacking it apart and rewiring as 2s3p.

Click to expand...

I basically did 2 parallel stacks of 2...I think you would have to change the resistors in the boards, and not just re-wire them them, to get 3 parallel stacks of two...but, if you could get it to work, I'm guessing you'd get nice runtime??? I'll try to do up a diagram of how I was able to properly line up the four that we're connected, if it'll help.

Here you go James!

Thanks, I left my multimeter at my jobsite tonight, I'll attempt this on the weekend.
I added more photos in my help m6 thread.