Brightest Incand E2e ever

I think you're right. On 2 IMRs, the 1794 is the brightest, by a good bit. I'd guess it's 700+ lumens.

I've got one in a mini-turbo on an E2e and one running on a Leef E-head C-tail with 2x IMR 18650s, with an AW soft-start. I wish there was a soft start switch for the E-series lights.

fivemega said:

Just wondering who has brightest E2 series incand.?

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Me :naughty:

fivemega said:

I believe, 1794 with mini turbo head is brightest.?

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I believe you too!!!

fivemega said:

How many of you have this set up??

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???? :thinking: Dont know but not alot I guess.

fivemega said:

How bright do you think these are? ?

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:sick2:

fivemega said:

And how do you compare to other setups. ?

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Totally Worth It! :devil:

fivemega said:

Any beam shot?

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I have an E2D with one of your sockets, and slightly trimmed down 1794, and a big O ring, and an E2D lamp, Judco 10A switch and it Stomps any other E series incan I have. ( Note Its not a perfect mod ~I Don't endorse trimming down lamps to fit into a host ~ Id say overall its about 85-90% as good as it could be for a mod, I could improve it & It could be slicker, but its a hell of an upgrade to what I concider my first torch...Its was/ is my 'First' real torch and got me hooked to CPF :twothumbs


I took some beamshots, and will post when I get some time.

I bet it rules in that lovely head you have made, So when I get some more time ( and $$$ ) I hope to buy and make another.

I imagine it will be an even nicer beam and better/ easier fit in the mini turbo head.

EDIT: confused E with C series

The SF E2 is the perfect size/form for me. What is the runtime with the mini turbo head setup mentioned above? Also, what is the brightest setup with the stock head/bezel (what combination of lamp and batteries)? With mega output, how good (or bad) is the runtime? Thanks.

LoL Duke that's hardcore!

Yea, those old switches are such garbage. Surefire's newer revision of the E-series clicky is a self contained unit that basically drops into the place of that old cluster of parts.

I've taken plenty of those non-functioning old switches apart (they always stick in the on position), and Break-Free CLP'd the crap out of them. Usually worked good when I slapped the parts back together, but still not totally reliable.

donn_ said:

I've got one in a mini-turbo on an E2e and one running on a Leef E-head C-tail with 2x IMR 18650s, with an AW soft-start.

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Do you also have a "rocket", or resembling, like this in my sig?

flashfan said:

What is the runtime with the mini turbo head setup mentioned above?

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1794 and pair of IMR16340 run time is about 8 minutes.

fivemega said:

Who has brightest E2 series incand?

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I guess not many people like E series anymore !!!

I do! And it was my pleasure to be the first one to suggest using this set-up in your sales thread! :devil:

Though I wish you had anodization to match the SF old school lighter natural HA such as that found on ruond clipless E2 bodies.

You can always get all the parts cerakoted in identical colors. Lots of color options and a tougher coating than ano.

I'm considering that for some SolarForce and LumensFactory Legos I have, but I only own one round body E2, and want to keep it original (it's near mint).

fivemega said:

Just wondering who has brightest E2 series incand.
I believe, 1794 with mini turbo head is brightest.
How many of you have this set up? How bright do you think these are? And how do you compare to other setups.
Any beam shot?

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I have this setup and I have to agree. Using this Turbo head on 2x18500 or 2x16340 In yours or SFs, E series bodies, its the brightest and smallest so far. The 2x18500 gives great runtime, how long do you think it'll run ?

I am starting to prefer the Turbo head on the 2x18500 for extended runtimes. Not because I can use it longer, but the Cells hold up a bit better and keep the voltage higher longer. Which keeps it nice, bright and white.


Answer, your host is the brightest.

Ill ask my GF if she can take a few Beamshots

Nite, don't take this the wrong way, but I'm a bit surprised you'd be so willing to trust 1794 bulbs so soon after all that recently took place.

Perhaps I missed it, but did the company give you a satisfactory response after all?

Monocrom said:

Nite, don't take this the wrong way, but I'm a bit surprised you'd be so willing to trust 1794 bulbs so soon after all that recently took place.

Perhaps I missed it, but did the company give you a satisfactory response after all?

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Are you kidding? That was like a year ago! OK its a valid question; Not only has there been now been like four runs made. 1st run was for Fivemega, lasted two years. They used the old design. Then a second run which using the old design, developed a defect during manufacturing that was not caught by QC at Carley.

After samples arrived,

We have already replaced all the defective recalled bulbs of everyone who wanted to. Since then two runs have been made. A test run. Then a replacement batch, then a hundred more of which a few remain.

The difference in quality and strength using the new metals is immediately obvious. The bulbs perform same or better, but they are much much stronger.

We have now shipped out almost 150 replacements and another hundred are almost sold out.

Out of 258 new bulbs and samples, I have heard of only two breaking, during install, from only one person.:thumbsup:

I have broken my fair share of other 1.5mm bulbs during install. The pins must be straight during insertion

this is one of the best bulbs FM ever designed and that design has now been IMPROVED upon.

Carley engineers regret their companies mistake, and has even changed the name of the CL 1794, but for sales purposes, I keep it the same. I dont know or need to know what the new number is.

When you compare the first run bulbs to the latest run you can see a big difference in appearance, thickness, stronger bulb envelope. Better connections.

Biggest change in the beefing up of the bulbs glass, is the invisible change you cant see..no microscopic cracks.

the old metal in the original design was causing bubbles to form in the glass during production. This has been fixed. A molly alloy is now used in the legs.

The bulb is now Stronger than the original first run. And it still fits.

this is a fragile bulb under any conditions, especially during install. You must wear eye protection with Pressurized halogen bulbs...all bulbs..soldering, and this hobby.

I have had the new bulbs long enough to say with confidence the New 1794s are even better.

Thanks. I appreciate the detailed response.

Also, I have an incredible memory, but it's not so good with dates. Didn't realize all the fuss took place over a year ago. Sorry about that.

Monocrom said:

Thanks. I appreciate the detailed response.

Also, I have an incredible memory, but it's not so good with dates. Didn't realize all the fuss took place over a year ago. Sorry about that.

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yeah time flies.

I cant believe it either!

too bad about the defective shipment. Hurt sales momentum.

Good to see everything's okay now. :thumbsup:

Due to the release and subsequent rise in popularity of the Cree XM-L LED, incandescents seem less and less significant. For that reason, I'm bringing this year-stale thread to the top, in hopes of provoking interest/discussion.

I have a new/revised opinion of the title: "Brightest Incand E2e ever". What is stated in the OP is mostly true, but only if you include aftermarket body parts, as well as obsolete components (i.e., custom bi-pin socket). If you're talking strictly stock SureFire E series body parts though, then it is definitely not the case; a SureFire E2 with 2x IMR16340, and a LumensFactory IMR-E2 lamp assembly is the brightest available, and still one of my favorite incan setups. Currently I'm using it in a SureFire E2D, and think the flower petal spill beam is quite unique!

Anyone else have any new thoughts/opinions?

P.S. It's sure sad to see the FM E series bi-pin socket go by way of the Dodo!