Tripple SSR-50 Mag

I figured I would do a write up on this build. I have been around the site for a while and have been modding a lot of lights in the background. I just dont find the time to post up a thread on the builds, but I figured I would give it a try.

I did some research on parts I wanted to use and had a good idea of what I was going to do. I wanted to use DerWitchtels new improved heat sink because I knew it would help with keeping things cooler. It extends down deeper into the mag body and allows a place to attach the drivers. I had some questions on what reflector to use so I asked DerWitchtel and he was able to give me enough info to decide to use the older style MCE reflector, which turns out to be a great combo with the SSR-50.



The first thing I had to do was to fit the leds to the heat sink. This required removal of about .020 from the bottom of each star. I did this over the course of a few days it was tedious work. I had one lost soul, you can see there in the background



Glued LEDs in place with AA.



Next part that I worked on was the regulation for this light. I decided to use an AMC board set up to provide about 4.2a with 3 modes.



And I was able to use 20 gauge wire...



Things in place in the back, later I potted them in place with some clear epoxy.



I have not seen too many people use the new style switch so I thought I would post a pic of how I made battery contact. Modding the rest of the switch is the same for clicky or momentary. A small hole is drilled first, then with that metal piece out I place a small nut inside it and re-install it in the switch housing. Once its back in place I screw the brass screw in through the hole into the nut. Worked out great.





Then I worked a little more on the business end. Soldering was tough with the heat sink sucking away all the heat I wish they had turned out better but I think they are still good.



Once I was done here I wired the switch and tested things....its alive...on low.



Cleaning and assembly. Getting rid of the dust.



Reflectors in. ETA: I did remove material from the bottom of the reflector to allow the wires to pass better and to make
sure there were not any shorts. There were no problems but I wanted to make sure.



That is the majority of the wiring. For the battery holder I used a simple piece of PVC because it works very well. I added an o-ring to help keep the holder in place while changing batteries. Both ends are cut and a chamfer is placed on the ID with the lathe. Nothing special.




I also plan on an 18650 PVC holder made from solid stock, I just have to pick that up.

Tail cap has been modded and shortened, we have all seen enough of that. I did add a small Al pill to the spring to protect the battery.

All finished up with UCL lens. Saw the smudge in this pic and went back and cleaned it off.



Sorry to those of you who saw this thread early, it posted and I am not sure why...then when I went to fix it I got bit by the great and awesome "Vista"

Thanks for sharing this one. Looks outstanding so far. Looking forward to your progress....:twothumbs

stupid thing was not supposed to post yet... oops. there is a lot more. Give me a few minutes.

Hmmm....I don't see anything?

I presume you've doubled the 7135chips, and you're using Download's trick of running 2 emitters outside the drivers while regulating the current with the AMC chips on the 3rd.
Beamshots of the happy ending (end of building, new beginning of uber flashlight using)

Re: your clever Batt+ switch contact


How much electrical contact is there between the screw and the sheet metal contact from the switch? Presumably, the area of the screw head (minus the shank)? It might be good to flow some solder to create a more solid electrical connection. Maybe redundant, but I like redundancy.

I solder a copper spacer for my Batt+ contact on these new style Mag switches. Sometimes, if I want a spring contact, I clip a few turns from the Mag incandescent bulb spring and use that.

I like your solution for cases where I might want to run a wire through the switch to Batt+.

Linger

Here are some ugly beam shots, as you guessed its pretty much stupid bright. Can very easily beat 3x P7s and the beam is hands down perfect, no matter if its a white wall or outside. I had to do these fast so there is some blur.

Control



And two pics on high. My camera could not get it, but its about twice as bright as it shows.





One more set, control. It is over exposed, I think that is what you call it. It was actually much darker.



High. I think this one shows the shear output the best.



Justin

Didnt see any need for solder, resistance is not a problem after a few different tests and I was able to get the screw very tight. Solder would be hard to add and you would have to do it with everything in place with this method. It would take a lot of heat and possibly melt the housing a little. Not an option for me. If I were to mod this same switch for momentary I would have drilled two holes in various places and passed the positive wire through them. Then, I would have soldered the wire to the flat metal spring and still would have done the small brass nut and bolt as shown here.

Contact is minimal, I am assuming you mean the distance that screw sticks up. It caused no damage to battery tops after I drop tested this set up in one of my other lights with the same battery and switch combo. In the pic it kinda shows the rough grinding I did on the top of the screw, I actually finished it much better but did not get a pic.

I saw that this switch would be a real problem for people following build tutorials, they may not know how to handle it. I hope it helps.




I was very impressed, this light actually had good throw for these little reflectors. The hot spot was awesome, and you can see the spill was usable and abundent. I had fun building this light it was a challenge, mostly due to the fine detail work that took so long to finish.




.

Justin Case said:

Re: your clever Batt+ switch contact

Click to expand...

+1

Very nice project :thumbsup:

Excellent build! So how much total current are you feeding each SSR-50 on high?

Thanks a bunch Will, I admire your work so coming from you that means something.

Jason, each in LED is getting 4.2A on high. I did that for 2 reasons....battery life/run time and to keep heat down so it can/could be used on high for longer periods of time.

Wow great build ....

EDIT: the 7135 is only up to 6v ... How did you do this? Could you post a picture of the whole light?

Nice work. :thumbsup:

Nice work mate!

Thanks guys

Aurum,

Take this and substitute the P7 for the SSR/SST.

The whole light is just a black 3D mag so you have seen it before. I didn't even take any pics of it to be honest. Its a sleeper. If there is something specific you want to know about just ask I don't mind sharing details.



I have to add that I did feel better to be able to use 20 gauge in this build. I also think that it
does help with performance by reducing resistance better than 24 gauge. It was harder to use
and I had to be careful and hand bend the wires, but well worth the extra work. I mentioned this
a little before but I wanted to stress it again.

Thank-you for posting some beam shots. Glad to hear reflectors work even better then expected.
Well done!

thx .... Do you have any comparison with any (c- or d-bin) 3*P7 setup?

No I dont have any beam shot comparisons but I have built about 20 or so triple P7s(D bin) so I see what they can do often and compared to the SSR-50 they do not keep up.

The SSR set up does produce a very good hot spot that throws out to about 100 yards or so. The last pic in my beam shots show a big green tree far out, with a P7 light that would not have as much light on it. And I did try and focus the majority of the spot onto the cars parked there at the end.

I have built about 20 or so triple P7s(D bin)

Click to expand...

... For sell?

Thanks for the great build. Here is a couple beamshots.

They are not that great and i dont know what the camera setting was drunk but it is the same for both pictures.


First is a Jetbeam RRT-0 on high (240 Lumens)




Next is the triple SSR-50 on high (??? Lumens)

Very good job.

I think the die size of the SST50 is smaller compared to Seoul P7 thus the beam profile is better.