I was playing around with a dead XM-L ((power supply too long to to switch to constant current, and I had my voltage up to compensate for lead loss, but up a bit too high...) Dropping it in pool of rubbing alcohol makes the dome appear to vanish (refractive index of the dome and IPA are close), and sticking some calipers into the pool to get a rough measure of the die, it comes out to ~2.25mm which is the actual die size of the XM-L iirc. Out of the IPA the die is ~3.2mm across. If you were to put some sort of cylinder on the board, fill it with norland, and drop a slide cover(think microscopes) or even better an AR-coated window (http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/displayproduct.cfm?productID=1919) and cure the whole assembly, would it be practically the same as de-doming?
Would you still keep the boost in extraction effiency that the dome gives you? (Thats from having something with a close/matching refractive index on the surface of the die, correct?) I would fiddle with it some now that I have my lux meter, in, but I have a nasty calse of polyprojectitis lately, and like I said, it was a non-functioning LED anyway
I know norland for covering a bare die doesnt work out, as it yellows from the heat, but now with the silicone insulating the die from the norland, it could possibly survive better?
Would you still keep the boost in extraction effiency that the dome gives you? (Thats from having something with a close/matching refractive index on the surface of the die, correct?) I would fiddle with it some now that I have my lux meter, in, but I have a nasty calse of polyprojectitis lately, and like I said, it was a non-functioning LED anyway
I know norland for covering a bare die doesnt work out, as it yellows from the heat, but now with the silicone insulating the die from the norland, it could possibly survive better?
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