Something wrong with my new Tri EDC?

So got my new Ti 4500k EDC and for some reason it flickers red before powering up on high. I tried the Ultrafire battery which is what my 6500k EDC uses with no issues and a AW IMR cell and it still does it. Its almost like its warming up then kick on to high after about 2 seconds. I hope its not supposed to do this because when I press the switch that delay seems like a long time.

Mac if you see this and there is an issue tell me what I need to do. It would suck to send it back but I am sure you will make it right for me.

Thanks

Not sure what your actual problem is Brian, sorry, but that is not normal behaviour. My 4500k TRI EDC fires up instantly, I love it now my small problem is fixed

The red light is from the low voltage warning light on the new l333 board. It would seem that the board is trying to draw more current to fire up than the battery can handle. Kind of like the old multiple click to fire up an Incan bulb.

That's my best guess, anyway.

Duplicate post

Hey Brian,

I too had a problem with my Ti-EDC 4500K. When I first got the light it operated fine on both IMR 16340's and IMR 18350's. After a few minutes of use I let it sit for about an hour. When I went back to it I could not get it to light up. I had an 18350 in it at that time. I could get it to work on 16340's but not the 18350's. I tried several batteries but no dice. Looooonnnnngg story short, The LE was very slightly loose in the head. I turned it only from the 12:00 to the 1:00 position and it lit up and began working again. I actually removed the LE from the head at one point and fully reinstalled it. I also had the clicky out of the tube but I am confident the LE wasn't making contact with the head. Something to try, it worked for me and all is well now. :thumbsup:

Jtruck.

Nothing wrong with anything being loose. This sucks because it happens every time so I dont know how Mac missed it. It was a long wait for this light and now it has to go back. poop happens but I wish Mac would have seen it.

The thing just pulses about 5 times on red then fires up. It will do this every time no matter what. The only time it wont is if you keep cycling through the modes with out stopping. You let it set for 3 seconds then start over and it will do it again.

I am glad to hear its not normal because I would not want the light if it were this delayed. It takes about 2-3 seconds after pushing the button for it to light up.

By the way I have the 1st run Cerakote 6500k EDC and you guys are right on with this 4500k. It looks so much nicer and colors look true. I really like this light engine most and the Ti is just a perfect match for such a great light.

I know he will take care of it and in the end that is what matters most. Now I have to wait for his response so I can send it back.

I bought some new AW IMR batteries but I think this will all work out in the end. I am not gonna worry about it. The light looks amazing otherwise.

Tried to show the wife how nice and fine the threads are that the seam disappears when you screw the head down but I dont think she cared at all, lol. I will be sure to pass the same behavior when she talks girl crap to me and wants an opinion.

Does it actually take a few seconds? Like I said to you via E-Mail the new L333 boards which are the new and improved boards do have a very slight delay before coming on. As in maybe a half of a second.


Mac

jtrucktools34 said:

Hey Brian,

I too had a problem with my Ti-EDC 4500K. When I first got the light it operated fine on both IMR 16340's and IMR 18350's. After a few minutes of use I let it sit for about an hour. When I went back to it I could not get it to light up. I had an 18350 in it at that time. I could get it to work on 16340's but not the 18350's. I tried several batteries but no dice. Looooonnnnngg story short, The LE was very slightly loose in the head. I turned it only from the 12:00 to the 1:00 position and it lit up and began working again. I actually removed the LE from the head at one point and fully reinstalled it. I also had the clicky out of the tube but I am confident the LE wasn't making contact with the head. Something to try, it worked for me and all is well now. :thumbsup:

Jtruck.

Click to expand...

The LE and head are both conductive so as long as they are screwed together they should make contact I'm baffled at what happened.

Mac

Well I guess if I get my shot timer out I will know exactly but its not that bad. Has to be under 1 sec.

I sent you a PM.

No worries here people move along. Light is perfect and everything is normal as it turns out.

Thanks for the replies.

I have some new AW IMR 18350's on the way since they seem to be safer and suggested by you guys.

Seeing as how I have discovered I have a "status red LED" and Mac says I can remove it I have thought about doing so. I am scared to operate on my LE since I dont know what I am doing.

The red LED can be seen projecting on the wall in both med and low. Its not the end of the world but looking at the light from an angle you can see the magnifiers glowing red. I cant decide if I hate it enough to remove it but more importantly I am scared to try.

First off would you guys suggest leaving the LED there or get rid of it?

Secondly Mac says tweezers will do the trick but is this thing just plugged into the board with some sort of 2 pin system or am I going to be crushing it trying to pull it out? Basically if I understand how its in the board perhaps I can figure out the best way to remove it.

The red LED is a surface mount led and is soldered to the board. You would be breaking it off.

Mac

Any way to cover up the annoying red LED? Maybe a chip of black electrical tape over the beast will tame it down enough that it's not noticeable .......

Sway said:

Any way to cover up the annoying red LED? Maybe a chip of black electrical tape over the beast will tame it down enough that it's not noticeable .......

Click to expand...

Great idea a drop of any color paint would work also......Nailpolish?

Mac

Not to detract from the awesomeness of the low voltage indicator on these L333s.. But I believe you can order the light engines without the low voltage led indicator from lux-rc. Just food for thought.. If i had one I'd prefer the indicator.

whizdumb said:

Not to detract from the awesomeness of the low voltage indicator on these L333s.. But I believe you can order the light engines without the low voltage led indicator from lux-rc. Just food for thought.. If i had one I'd prefer the indicator.

Click to expand...

I have built 2 cell lights with the L333 and the LED still is illuminated. I'll have to check into this more.

Mac

It cant be a warning light b/c its on all the time. I think it might just have to be left alone. I for sure dont want to be breaking anything off the board. The nail polish is an idea but with the amount of heat I wonder how it would hold up or create other issues when it tries to burn off.

The light is so darn sexy except for this little bugger. I have a feeling its going to have to be left alone.

cmacclel said:

I have built 2 cell lights with the L333 and the LED still is illuminated. I'll have to check into this more.

Mac

Click to expand...

I'm just saying that I believe I read somewhere that you could order the LE that Lux-RC has to offer without the red LED indicator.. It may have been mentioned in one of those visitor/quazzle quote at the bottom of the page. I'm sure they would do anything for folks that buy in bulk.

Ok i have an idea for this little red LED. I have permatex silicone gasket maker for autmobikes that is black and resist heat up to 1k degrees. A little dab will cover the light, resist heat, and be removable since it doesnt dry hard and stays rubbery. This should work just fine and wont envolve breaking anything or use something that can burn off and create problems.