Help me choose a High CRI p60 drop in.

Ok guys as the title says I am new to the High CRI stuff I see that its going to be a more yellow color similar to the incans which I have always loved but I have questions.

1. Are there any other benefits to having a high cri drop in such as runtime, throw...ect?

2. Who makes them I am kind of partial to the nailbender drop ins since they are driven properly

3. And last but certainly not least out of all the avail high cri drop ins which one would you recommend (please post pictures/beamshots of your recommendation)

I can't really answer your questions but one drop-in you should try to see if high CRI is for you is this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-Warm...4988227?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item41513035c3

I have two of these, I bought one because I was tired of the pale, dead blue color of standard LEDs and after trying it I loved it so much I bought another. Very warm light and easy on the eyes for up close stuff, doesn't scorch your retinas, but will still throw well. For $13 you really can't go wrong.

SgtCuts said:

I see that its going to be a more yellow color similar to the incans

Click to expand...

This is not a rule. It is common that a higher CRI number (color rendering index) often coincides with a higher CCT (correlated color temperature, the 'warmth' or 'coolness' of white light), but not always. Daylight, for instance, is the 'ideal' light, but it is not warm. Some of Nichia's high-CRI LEDs are about 4500K, which is closer to daylight than it is to incandescent (3000K).

SgtCuts said:

1. Are there any other benefits to having a high cri drop in such as runtime, throw...ect?

Click to expand...

None. The same rules apply as for any other LED dropins.. The warmer the color, the worse the runtime will be. So it'll probably be a bit worse than what you're used to, if you're used to 'cool' LEDs.

The runtime isn't really connected to how warm the led is. What happens is that warmer tinted led's aren't as bright as cool leds, so in order to make them as bright they have to be driven harder, which is what decreases the runtime. However, most High CRI led's are designed to run at a certain output to get the High CRI, so pushing them harder isn't doing yourself or the led any good. You're just going to have to get used to the idea that most High CRI leds just aren't as bright as cool. But I think you'll find that the better color rendition makes up for it quite nicely.

Malkoff makes a nice High CRI P60. Illuminationgear has them.

you sacrifice lumens for Higher CRI usually with the same type of LED.
runtimes, and beam pattern are effected by the driver, or reflector/optic/head.

illuminationsupply carries M61 HighCRI. using a 90+ CRI XP-G 3000k.

nailbender can also make 90+ CRI XP-G drop-in modules, as well as a SCC P4 high CRI of 93 drop-ins.

Knuckles said:

I can't really answer your questions but one drop-in you should try to see if high CRI is for you is this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-Warm...4988227?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item41513035c3

I have two of these, I bought one because I was tired of the pale, dead blue color of standard LEDs and after trying it I loved it so much I bought another. Very warm light and easy on the eyes for up close stuff, doesn't scorch your retinas, but will still throw well. For $13 you really can't go wrong.

Click to expand...

How warm is it?
I have a 4sevens Preon2 warm white and several other neutral white lights.
Do you have any other warm white or neutral white to compare with?
I have thought about trying it if it's not to warm.
But I don't think it's a Hi CRI light, is it?

skyfire said:

.... illuminationsupply carries M61 HighCRI. using a 90+ CRI XP-G 3000k. ....

Click to expand...

But is currently out of stock.

You can ask Kenji to build you a Kerberos Quad with High CRI LEDs... I love mine! :huh:

Thanks for all the responses guys but does anyone have any pictures?

a few days ago i ordered a high-CRI XP-G dropin from Nailbender, i'll try to remember to post beam comparison photos when i get it

Ooops. My bad. It is Illuminationsupply. My M61HCRI is the same tint as my Quark Warm if that helps.

Fenix PD31 R5 (for reference)


RA Clicky High CRI


Nailbender "Linger Special" 85 CRI (dual XP-G's)


(Left to right) PD31, RA Clicky, Linger Special

I have no plans to sell or make custom drop-ins, but I've assembled the parts to build my own single-mode high-CRI XP-G drop-in. I'll be driving it with AMC7135s, at either 350 or 700mA (haven't decided). Its primary purpose will be to act as a camping light with my Solarforce L2 and lantern attachment. I like the 7135 drivers because they will drop out of regulation as the voltage drops, giving me some indication of when the battery is getting low.

skyfire said:

you sacrifice lumens for Higher CRI usually with the same type of LED.

Click to expand...

red_hackle said:

You can ask Kenji to build you a Kerberos Quad with High CRI LEDs... I love mine! :huh:

Click to expand...

This is a good point. Due to a significant loss of output you're better off with more emitters. Driving the emitter harder to make up for the loss just kills runtime and efficiency. The best way to get past this is to use more emitters, driven at lower currents.

Have a look at my thread here.

My Kerberos High-CRI Triple more than holds its own against the rest of my lights. I have a solarforce lantern head, and believe me that this triple works brilliantly in it. You'd think it was an old-school 40W household incan bulb

Driving a single High-CRI emitter at 350mA is only going to give you 85 lumens or so, and once that's been diffused through the lantern head, it's going to be pretty dim.