I am very new to the quality flashlight world and this is my first thread in CPF. I just recently purchased a Quark "X" 123² Tactical and I absolutely love this light! I can tell that this will be the first of many in a new addiction of things to spend money on. I have researched what I am about to ask quite a bit and cant seem to find my answer. That doesn't mean my answer is not out there it just means I am new to this forum and forums in general and may not know the best way to look. I know that my flashlight takes 2 CR123's. What I want to know is can it take 2 RCR123's? Or an 18650? Or a 17670? If it can take any of these rechargeable batteries what are the ups and down to using them as opposed to the typical CR123? Any advice you experienced flashaholics can offer would be very much appreciated.
Quark "X" 123² Tactical Take Rechargeable Batteries?
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tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have the exact same light man, I feel the same way, this light is amazing!!!!
to answer your question:
2x RCR123s: yes
1x 18650: not really. 4sevens used to make our lights to accommodate 18650-sized cells, but they stopped for some reason. you could mod it though but it wouldn't be worth the trouble I'd imagine.
1x 17670: yes, I've been meaning to order some AW 17670s to use, but a lot of people here have done that. it's a lower voltage than two 123s, but it has a longer runtime I believe. apparently, though, it's a bit of a tight fit, so you may or may not have to remove the sticker/label.
i hope this helps! enjoy that X! I love mine to death!
to answer your question:
2x RCR123s: yes
1x 18650: not really. 4sevens used to make our lights to accommodate 18650-sized cells, but they stopped for some reason. you could mod it though but it wouldn't be worth the trouble I'd imagine.
1x 17670: yes, I've been meaning to order some AW 17670s to use, but a lot of people here have done that. it's a lower voltage than two 123s, but it has a longer runtime I believe. apparently, though, it's a bit of a tight fit, so you may or may not have to remove the sticker/label.
i hope this helps! enjoy that X! I love mine to death!
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
you're very welcome, good luck!
Outdoorsman5
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have two "AW" brand 17670 batteries, and they both fit in my Quark 123x2 Turbo X (same body as yours.) So get em.
I have the untactical version, and use AW17670 cells (the fit is fine) and the 4Sevens charger.
According the the voltage ratings given by 4Sevens, you can use 2X RCR123, but since the 4Sevens charger only does 1 cell, and the capacity of the 17670 is a bit more than 2X RCR123, and the runtime does not seem affected much (IIRC), and the reduced fumbling of changing 1 cell, I went with it. If you are out in the field, take spare 17670s or CR123s or RCR123s.
I will also note that 1 protected LiIon cell seems safer to me that 2X CR123, which can vent with flame under certain conditions (search the battery forum section).
According the the voltage ratings given by 4Sevens, you can use 2X RCR123, but since the 4Sevens charger only does 1 cell, and the capacity of the 17670 is a bit more than 2X RCR123, and the runtime does not seem affected much (IIRC), and the reduced fumbling of changing 1 cell, I went with it. If you are out in the field, take spare 17670s or CR123s or RCR123s.
I will also note that 1 protected LiIon cell seems safer to me that 2X CR123, which can vent with flame under certain conditions (search the battery forum section).
Thanks so much guys for all the help. This Info should help me out alot. Is there a reason that everyone mentions the "AW" Brand? Are they the best? Also if I chose to use RCR123's is there a brand of those you guys think is better than the rest?
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
AW makes RCR123s, too.
AW and Redilast are safe bets, as opposed to Trustfire/Ultrafire brands which have a much inflated mAh (capacity) rating as opposed to AW or Redilast.
if you want to buy some:
AW source (if you're in the USA): http://www.rtdvapor.com/BATTERIES_c3.htm (I can vouch for RTDVapor.com a million times over)
Redilast's store: http://tacticalhid.info/redilast
but Redilast isn't available in anything but 18650 sizes, so you're gonna need/want to go with AW then.
AW has sold many batteries in the CPF Dealer's Corner forum here (so needless to say, he's legitimate and his batteries have withstood the test of time here on CPF): http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/forumdisplay.php?13-Dealer-s-Corner&order=desc (CPFMP seems down but if you go to the RTDVapor link you'll find his prices are literally, at most, $1 higher than AWs, but you save on the shipping expenses and get them a lot quicker since RTD is in the USA (assuming you're in the US, too) so you get a huge convenience factor too.
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
protected batteries, and again i'm not an expert, typically (9 times out of 10) have higher mAh capacities and cut off the voltage supply when the battery's own voltage is getting too low and protects your investment from being over-discharged and protects you from a potentially dangerous situation and stuff.
i'm happy to let someone else explain it better than i can, but for 99% of people who use high-end lights, i'd say a protected circuit is what you want. plus, as a beginner in flashlights and li-ions (i'm assuming your Quark is your first real high end and relatively high power light), a protection circuit is good because you may not also be accustomed to looking for the signs and symptoms of an over-discharged battery (or one that is on its way to that point), so you protect your investment in that way, too
Yes, get protected. They have a tiny circuit board under the anode that protects against discharging to too low a voltage. Usually, the cell is a bit smaller to accommodate the circuit board. If you discharge to the lowest safe voltage, the circuit should cut the power completely. The cell will appear dead, zero volts. Simply putting the cell into the charger should reset it.
Safely handling unprotected cells is more work. Too much, IMO.
Ok so I tried the RTDVapor.com website and like what I see. I also found a good charger on this website for anything from the 16340's (which i hope is the same as RCR123) up to the 18650's. It is called the trustfire tr-003p4. Do any of you guys have any experience with this charger or have any thoughts on trustfire products in general? If its not a good purchase is there a better charger to go with? I need something that can charge the RCR123's (I failed to mention before that I purchased a Quark "X" Mini 123 as well for a keychain light), the 17670's for my other light, and 18650's (because I am quite sure that this will become an addiction and i will end up with a light at some point that takes them). If there is such a charger that does all this other than the one I found on the website.
pobox1475
Enlightened
AW protected cells are tops.
Spend some time looking at charger reviews in this forum (electronics-batteries). I think the Pila, 4Sevens and at least one Xtar are among the recommended. Some units sound downright dangerous. There are also many websites that sell AW cells like Lighthound & 4Sevens, as well as various chargers.
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
i don't personally recommend the TR-003P4. that's the one with the 'flap,' right? i highly recommend the XTAR WP6 II. I've been using my WP6 II for a bunch of batteries AW, Redilast, Callie's Kustoms and so forth brands of batteries and I love it. it's a little over $10 more than the Trustfire one. The thing with those Trustfire and Ultrafire products is that they're really hit-or-miss. they tend to fail over time, apparently, at least according to the stories on here at CPF.
plus, if you need more spacers they sell them on RTDVapor, too. I actually have 20 or 25 (i forget how many, but definitely a bunch) of those extra spacers that I bought thinking I'd need a ton because I was planning on buying two more XTARs to keep in various spots (which I ultimately decided against due to cost), but that being said if you need/want extra spacers, i'd be glad to send you some if need be. the screw spacers that the XTAR units use is a much better solution, at least in my opinion, than the other company's products that use the sliding contacts/rails. the battery really stays in place with XTAR's way of doing it.
Pila's unit, the IBC, which is the other recommendation for chargers here on CPF is more expensive, and in addition, you need 'dummy' spacers/blanks to charge small batteries like 16340s like you want. Pila makes a good charger, though, but the XTAR is much more versatile and has my vote.
edit: and yes, 16340 is RCR123A
i don't personally recommend the TR-003P4. that's the one with the 'flap,' right? i highly recommend the XTAR WP6 II. I've been using my WP6 II for a bunch of batteries AW, Redilast, Callie's Kustoms and so forth brands of batteries and I love it. it's a little over $10 more than the Trustfire one. The thing with those Trustfire and Ultrafire products is that they're really hit-or-miss. they tend to fail over time, apparently, at least according to the stories on here at CPF.
plus, if you need more spacers they sell them on RTDVapor, too. I actually have 20 or 25 (i forget how many, but definitely a bunch) of those extra spacers that I bought thinking I'd need a ton because I was planning on buying two more XTARs to keep in various spots (which I ultimately decided against due to cost), but that being said if you need/want extra spacers, i'd be glad to send you some if need be. the screw spacers that the XTAR units use is a much better solution, at least in my opinion, than the other company's products that use the sliding contacts/rails. the battery really stays in place with XTAR's way of doing it.
Pila's unit, the IBC, which is the other recommendation for chargers here on CPF is more expensive, and in addition, you need 'dummy' spacers/blanks to charge small batteries like 16340s like you want. Pila makes a good charger, though, but the XTAR is much more versatile and has my vote.
edit: and yes, 16340 is RCR123A
Ok so I was trying to figure out how to split your previous response up into several quotes but I can't figure it out. After doing some more reading and researching I like the XTAR WP6 II charger. I am going to order one of those.
I do have another question as well. Are Eneloops different from say the 10440 (which after reading i think is the lithium ion size for AAA?) or the AA equivalent (14500 or 14650?)? I keep reading about how awesome these eneloops are for AA and AAA batteries. They seem to have much lower voltage ratings than the li-ion equivalent in size but being the dummy that I am I really have no idea what that really means. And have any of you guys just completely swapped all batteries in your household to rechargeables? I was thinking of trying to do this. I figured in the long run I would save lots of money but not sure how much of a difference it would make using rechargeable batteries in remotes and clocks and things like that.
Oh and one more question... Are the red or blue AW batteries protected as well? Or just the black ones?
Thanks again guys for all the great info you have shared so far and thanks for your patience with a noob.
SilverFox
Flashaholic
Hello Flashnoob,
Welcome to CPF.
I'll take the different chemistry question. Li-Ion chemistry results in a rough mid point voltage during a "normal" discharge of around 3.7 volts. NiMh chemistry, like the Eneloop cells, results in a rough mid point voltage during a "normal" discharge of around 1.2 volts.
If the light you are using expects 1.2 volts per cell and you give it 3.7 volts, it stops working due to some component burning out.
If the light you are using expects 3.7 volts per cell and you give it 1.2 volts, it also doesn't work, but it is because of under voltage.
Similar things happen when trying to charge the cells. You need a charger that is designed for the chemistry you are trying to charge.
When choosing a battery you not only need to make sure it is the correct size, but you also need to make sure it is the correct voltage. The voltage needed will dictate the chemistry of the battery.
Eneloop cells are great and well proven. If your light runs on NiMh chemistry voltages, they are an excellent way to go.
Tom
Welcome to CPF.
I'll take the different chemistry question. Li-Ion chemistry results in a rough mid point voltage during a "normal" discharge of around 3.7 volts. NiMh chemistry, like the Eneloop cells, results in a rough mid point voltage during a "normal" discharge of around 1.2 volts.
If the light you are using expects 1.2 volts per cell and you give it 3.7 volts, it stops working due to some component burning out.
If the light you are using expects 3.7 volts per cell and you give it 1.2 volts, it also doesn't work, but it is because of under voltage.
Similar things happen when trying to charge the cells. You need a charger that is designed for the chemistry you are trying to charge.
When choosing a battery you not only need to make sure it is the correct size, but you also need to make sure it is the correct voltage. The voltage needed will dictate the chemistry of the battery.
Eneloop cells are great and well proven. If your light runs on NiMh chemistry voltages, they are an excellent way to go.
Tom
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
Silverfox explained it spot-on
