Pelican 7060 Amazed me...

Today I got my Pelican 7060 and is VERY surprised. The light is crappy at first impression but now it is golden. Why? We got used to all the metal bodies all the time and high power, high lumens, you know.. yeah.. I used to hang out with my M30/TD15x, which throws out 700+ lumens, what can this wimpy 160 lumens do with a bulk body, plastic body and it's totally NOT SEXY!

After trying it out, I have to take my words back... this guy is insane! The 160 lumens out perform many 200-300 lumens light, the BA20 and so on is no match. The throw is superior, intense and great for blinding use which cops are usuall using it for as well. It gives a super throw, bright white beam and it DOESN'T HEAT UP even you turn it on for over 30mins or even an hour.. only a tiny warm at the head but when you grip the light, it feels cool still. Can't believe it. Plastic IS there for a reason.

I am now in love with it.. haha!

I remember reading about this light a while back. Smaller emitter + larger reflector = throw. Lasers have low output but tons of throw.

It can't be too bright, or the LED will get too hot and kill itself because plastic isn't a good thermal conductor. But plastic and the larger size means that it is easier to grip, doesn't get hot (as you noticed), "tougher" (absorbs more impact instead of deforming), and the charging dock is great for avoiding battery changes. Probably also stays on a hood of a car instead of rolling off like a round light would. I kinda like the style, very much a light built to be used.

Most pelican lights are like that, they are built to be used day in, day out for years.

They are ugly, but well built lights.

CYMac said:

[video=youtube;7NICT2pUMtA]DOESN'T HEAT UP even you turn it on for over 30mins or even an hour.. only a tiny warm at the head but when you grip the light, it feels cool still. Can't believe it. Plastic IS there for a reason.

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Actually, that's a bad thing. If the body of the light feels hot, it means that the light has a good thermal pathway from the emitter and circuits to the body, meaning that the internal heat buildup is correctly being dissipated. Plastic, being a horrible thermal conductor, means that the waste heat is not being dumped out into the air properly, and is being trapped inside the light, possibly overheating the internal components.

I love your videos...keep them coming!

P.S. I wonder what your neighbors think.

Echo63 said:

They are ugly, but well built lights.

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LOL!!!

Pretty impressive. Thanks for the review.

I use the 7060 for duty. It has a long throw. It is easy to pick someone out 100 yards away. The body of the light is polymer, buy the hexagon head in aluminum with a bunch of cooing fins where the emitter is. The cooling fins to a super job at dissipating the heat. In addition to a long run time, I can go months of intermittent use before recharging the battery. Pelican must use quality cells because they really hold a charge. I hope you enjoy your new laser!! Shine the light in the air when there is a tiny bit of fog and it looks like a laser or light saber.

LightCrazy said:

I use the 7060 for duty. It has a long throw. It is easy to pick someone out 100 yards away. The body of the light is polymer, buy the hexagon head in aluminum with a bunch of cooing fins where the emitter is. The cooling fins to a super job at dissipating the heat. In addition to a long run time, I can go months of intermittent use before recharging the battery. Pelican must use quality cells because they really hold a charge. I hope you enjoy your new laser!! Shine the light in the air when there is a tiny bit of fog and it looks like a laser or light saber.

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Where can you buy the head in aluminum? I do agree the light is very focus and can beam a nice light saber up even it is rated at 130 or 160 lumens. It is much crazier than most higher power light in throw power.

How long can your 7060 last when running the light on non-stop? It just say 1.5 hr on the box but now thinking about it, that guy must be able to do better than just 1.5hrs. Any experience in that?

enomosiki said:

Actually, that's a bad thing. If the body of the light feels hot, it means that the light has a good thermal pathway from the emitter and circuits to the body, meaning that the internal heat buildup is correctly being dissipated. Plastic, being a horrible thermal conductor, means that the waste heat is not being dumped out into the air properly, and is being trapped inside the light, possibly overheating the internal components.

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Intuitive but misguided. A.thermodynamic body will increase in temperature until it emits as much heat as it generates. If a light stays cool for long runtimes (as measured by thermometer) it has adequate thermal management. Things feel hot or cool based on their thermal conductivity. A fresh hot muffin is delicious... But you won't lick the conductive pan fresh from the oven!

I like the pelican I have, with red/blue/ white. I do wish it had more appropriate PWM on low.

AnAppleSnail said:

Intuitive but misguided. A.thermodynamic body will increase in temperature until it emits as much heat as it generates. If a light stays cool for long runtimes (as measured by thermometer) it has adequate thermal management. Things feel hot or cool based on their thermal conductivity. A fresh hot muffin is delicious... But you won't lick the conductive pan fresh from the oven!

I like the pelican I have, with red/blue/ white. I do wish it had more appropriate PWM on low.

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red/blue/white? you mean filter? where and which filter can you get for this light?

what is PWM ?

Also this light only have one mode (turn on/off) right? how come the manual say in "eco mode" if have more runtime?

PWM = pulse width modulation (second link on google when you search "PWM"), aka flashing the LED really quickly to appear like the light is dimmer.

I have the Pelican 2370 LED, with a magnetic control ring to select main white, red, blue, or red&blue. The color LEDs are dimmer, but adequate... Perhaps even too bright for " night vision preservation."

Are there other Pelican lights you would recommend.

My light is about two years old or so. If you look at his video, the part just behind the bezel that is "Fins" is all metal. I just tapped on my light with a metal knife and you can hear the difference in the sound from the plastic battery tube to the fins and back to the plastic bezel. The fins do get warm when the light is on for extended periods, actually warmer than the plastic bezel. The fin area is about 1 3/4" long. The 7060 has a deep reflector, and if you look closely you can see that the emitter is located in the finned area, about 1/4 back from the plastic bezel cap. I dont have the info handy, but a lot of teamwork between the LAPD an Pelican went into designing this light. From brightness to beam characterisitics to size and run times. The light is nice in the fact that it has dual switches, so you an turn the light on with one switch and off with the other if you want. Both switches are easily operated in a "Momentary" mode as well. I know my light gives a quick flash or blink off and back on when the battery is getting low. It is not much of a warning. The light does a good job at keeping full brightness right to the end of the battery life. Sorry for dragging on, I didn't mean to steal the thread.

enomosiki said:

Actually, that's a bad thing. If the body of the light feels hot, it means that the light has a good thermal pathway from the emitter and circuits to the body, meaning that the internal heat buildup is correctly being dissipated. Plastic, being a horrible thermal conductor, means that the waste heat is not being dumped out into the air properly, and is being trapped inside the light, possibly overheating the internal components.

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This is true. Can't be said better

On the other hand it's not totally made of the Xenoy resin...

LightCrazy said:

... the part just behind the bezel that is "Fins" is all metal. I just tapped on my light with a metal knife and you can hear the difference in the sound from the plastic battery tube to the fins and back to the plastic bezel. The fins do get warm when the light is on for extended periods, actually warmer than the plastic bezel. The fin area is about 1 3/4" long.

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7060 uses a XR-E emitter, 10870 lux measured by McGizmo (see review below)

Cons: Needs docking station, if lost your out of luck. Fine for LEO.
Uses a proprietary battery, once drained you're done (see review) Though the Pelican 8060 can use Alkaline batteries, but it's much larger.
Overall Expense ~$120

2007 McGizmo Review

It's not the same version of the Pelican 7060, the 2007 review would be of the original 7060 with 130 lumens and a 1.5 hour runtime.

In 2010, the 7060 was upgraded from the original XR-E EZ1000 to the XR-E EZ900 (identified with 7064 REV. C printed on the outside of the LED module), which draws less power and has a smaller die. Updated specs are 160 lumens with 16,101 candela and a 2 hour runtime.

Not sure about less power draw, but it should have a bit more throw due to the smaller emitter. Battery capacity have also increased a bit between then and now, so a bit of decrease in power draw and a bit higher battery capacity probably gave it more runtime. Forgot that the light had metal fins, so the LED should be fine. IIRC, it was one of the best LED throwers when it came out due to that deep reflector.

Was thinking about buying that light back when it came out, but didn't have the money for it.

Robin24K, I must have the original 7060. I bought it because of how bright it was and how long that beam threw for the size of the light. At the time I was using a Stinger HP, and this 7060 blew it and our Stinger LED lights away! Thanks for all the great info. I have not seen that updated version.

That's right, at batteryjunction, there are 2 7060 for sale and I got the 130 lumens version I think. But the new version is 160 lumens with longer runtime. Wonder what made the difference.. now I know. Oh well, the 130 lumens is already amazing with the focused beam, it looks brighter than some 600 lumens light too. crazy ...