Canister Dive Light

Hi everyone,

this is my first attempt on a canister dive light, and it turned out ok so far, with some difficulties. Please excuse my lack of knowledge below, I'm new to building led lights myself, and I really like it, and enjoying the process a lot.... I must thank Hector for all his help without his suggestions and parts I would not have been able to complete this light.

I have used a triple drop-in xml module from dx and it shines ok, but I think I need a new driver in order to get the maximum out of those XMLs. The battery I used is a 9.9V LiFePo, 4500mAh, and it looks like it will drive these leds for a long time. Haven't tested it yet. If anyone can suggest a driver that I can replace one from the module, I would be grateful.

Also I measured the current inline between the module and the taskled switch that I used, and it shows like the leds are getting 0.42A which was really weird. It's possible that I'm measuring the current wrong.

I'm planning to take this setup without the electronics (battery driver and switch) to my next dive, probably to 40-50m, to see if it will leak anywhere. I'm worried about those o-rings I've used on the connectors to the mag and the canister. I'm wondering if I should just glue the connectors with silicone to avoid leaks.

Daniel

Nice settup Daniel.

Can I ask, where is the switch? Is it magnetic inside the Otterbox.

Otterbox rates their boxes to 100ft (33M). I've never gone below 30M with my Otterbox torches so I can't say if they will fail at 50M. Do you have another 8000 that you can dive to that depth with nothing in it, to avoid wasting the battery if it fails?

I fill in the cavities of mine where there's going to be a hole drilled with two-part putty glue, then sand it back for a smooth surface. I figure it makes for a stonger seal and a smooth surface where the shoulders of the gland or switch come up against the box. If yours works however then that's one less bit of effort so I'll be keen to hear how it goes.

I see there's a bit of space in that Otterbox with that battery. You might want to put a bit of lead or something heavy in it to offset the positive buoyancy. It'll be in your pocket I know but you will still need the weight somewhere to keep your usual buoyancy. I've used lead bullets hot-glued together or small bags of lead shot.

Be aware the hinge of the Otterbox is fragile, youneed to check it regularly for hairline fractures. Also the opening latch is easily opened if caught on something. Once underwater we tend to knock our dive torches around so it might pay to protect the hinge and latch with a bit of rubber innertube round the box covering the hinge and latch after you seal it up (or even a couple of rounds of gaffa tape).

Hi Klem,

thanks for you comments. I like your setups as well.

I have taken this specific otterbox to 45m twice before I used it for this setup, and it didn't leak at all. So the seal on the otterbox will hold, but I'm not sure about those connections I've made at the agro glands. Maybe I will glue those with silicone. But I will take the setup without the battery, switch and leds to a depth of 40-45 and see what happens.

Yes I use a taskled hall switch, but I think it might be broken, or I'm using it wrong. For some reason after I soldered all the connections, the switch is in closed position, so Leds are On, but no matter what I do with the magnet the switch doesn't work. Maybe it's broken, or I'm using it wrong



I confirm that this will be positive, and I should use some extra weight, but I'm not sure if I'll keep using this battery. For know I'm using it for sure, but I'd like to change the driver to this triple drop-in from DX, because they don't shine very much with the stock driver. So I'm waiting for somebody to suggest a driver, that will not cost as much as those from taskled, I know they are the best, but I just don't have the budget, and I'm also affraid that I'll break it, so I need a driver that is less expensive, that I can play with and see the output of these leds to their full strength.

Once I change the driver, I might need to use a bigger, larger capacity battery, this one might not last that long with another driver. But I'll just have to see I guess.

Cheers,
Daniel

Atanasovski, from your photo that is the same model Otterbox I tested a few years back. Info on implosion is here http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-279489.html failure was alnog the widest side in the middle so wedging something inside to act as a support may help. As a result of my tests I built a stronger canister form PVC tubing. HTH

Thanks bowzer, that info helps a lot! I will definitely not take this setup deeper then 40m if that's the situation. I guess I'm in a need of a better canister ))

bowzer said:

Atanasovski, from your photo that is the same model Otterbox I tested a few years back. Info on implosion is here http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-279489.html failure was alnog the widest side in the middle so wedging something inside to act as a support may help. As a result of my tests I built a stronger canister form PVC tubing. HTH

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bowzer said:

Atanasovski, from your photo that is the same model Otterbox I tested a few years back. Info on implosion is here http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-279489.html failure was alnog the widest side in the middle so wedging something inside to act as a support may help. As a result of my tests I built a stronger canister form PVC tubing. HTH

Click to expand...

Interesting, and makes sense the manufacturer would be conservative in their specs to protect themselves. Also makes sense the point of failure was the only part of the box that is concave. The rest is convex. The shorter 8000 model may go a few meters deeper but after drilling holes in it for glands and switches I wouldn't be so sure. I have used these canisters successfully for night dive prawning but we go no deeper than 20metres for this.

I've used the Taskled Hall switches in the past and found the solder tracks on George's products tiny and unforgiving. If you spend too long trying to get the solder to take the heat will destroy the switch or driver. I am not an Oompa Loompa brain surgeon so I don't mind confessing to cooking more than one.

That's one good looking dive. As I told you on the e-mail, yes, if you want to get full power, get rid of the stock driver. The Taskled drivers are top notch. However, you may be able to find something at DX for about 1/2 the price. So it will be the difference between $20 to $50 (may be). In my opinion, the Taskled are the best for the high power stuff and that is all I use. No, George is not giving me kickbacks. I do use the magnetic switches as well but have never experienced a problem like yours. Do the checks that George suggested and see if there is a solution.

And yes, Klem might be right... You may have fried the switch soldering to it as well. I have fried a few of the solder pads myself...

Great! I'm looking at some drivers, but I think I'll order tasked driver. As far as the soldering, it's possible that I have fried the switch. I'll do the tests that George suggested, as soon as I get some free time, my day job is kind of crazy these days... Thanks for your suggestions and help!

Just wondering, why the gland adapters? I usually just wut the gland straight on the Maglite.

Sure, I was going to glue the gland to the case, and didn't want to destroy it, so I made an adapter, and my friend made two, so I put one on the maglite, but I might not use the one on the mag. I'm afraid that the connection, or the o-ring between the adapter and the gland will hold, so I'm not sure if I'll use them.

Ah, ok...

How did you get the maglite to be watertight?
I'm modding a 2C cell maglite for a MR16 halogen backed by a 12V 10aH powerpack.
So far the can is pretty watertight but keep getting a little bit of water in it.
I've ditch the original on/off part of the body and glued the bottom part to the head with epoxy.
I've even put soft silicone in the cracks of the three possible entry part (bottom, lense cap and where the bezel of the lense) but water still get in.
Any advice?

gabdiver said:

.........
Any advice?

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yes, dont ask the same question twice.

sorry....this problem has been ******* me off for a while so I tried different thread...

hi gabdiver, you need thicker orings for the mag to make it watertight. look at the marketplace or speak to 350xfire if he still has those for the mags.

gabdiver said:

How did you get the maglite to be watertight?
I'm modding a 2C cell maglite for a MR16 halogen backed by a 12V 10aH powerpack.
So far the can is pretty watertight but keep getting a little bit of water in it.
I've ditch the original on/off part of the body and glued the bottom part to the head with epoxy.
I've even put soft silicone in the cracks of the three possible entry part (bottom, lense cap and where the bezel of the lense) but water still get in.
Any advice?

Click to expand...

Atanasovski said:

hi gabdiver, you need thicker orings for the mag to make it watertight. look at the marketplace or speak to 350xfire if he still has those for the mags.

Click to expand...

That's my big problem. I'm in Canada, New Brunswick...ie...there is nothing in here. The only way right now I can find bigger O-ring is by trial and error, which cost a lot if I start ordering online all the time.

I'm trying to find what's the proper O-ring size I would need for a 2C cell maglite but I'm not finding that anywhere. You wouldn't know the size by any chances?

gabdiver said:

That's my big problem. I'm in Canada, New Brunswick...ie...there is nothing in here. The only way right now I can find bigger O-ring is by trial and error, which cost a lot if I start ordering online all the time.

I'm trying to find what's the proper O-ring size I would need for a 2C cell maglite but I'm not finding that anywhere. You wouldn't know the size by any chances?

Click to expand...

I'm in Macedonia, can you imagine how hard would it be to find anything here nearly impossible. That's why I said, contact 350xfire for orings and parts for modding mags. That's your best bet. I don't know the right size, sorry...

Head O-rings are the same as D. The tail is the issue as I have not find the proper o-ring for it. Recommend JB welding the tail shut as you don't need it top thread off.