I've been treating myself to a few new EDC lights lately and was impressed by the Sunwayman M11R. I ordered one from Amazon and received it today. Very impressive out of the box, really like the finish.
Anyway, popped in a new CR123 and gave the ring a twist but no joy - not a flicker. I removed the battery and checked it on my ZTS tester, showed full charge. Tried again and got a flicker. Tried again, got nothing.
Hmmmm....
If I unscrewed the head from the body almost all the way it would work, but the slightest jiggle would send it back into darkness. I removed the battery and looked at the tensioning spring that pushed the negative end of the battery forward. Plenty of 'spring' yet apparently no juice was flowing. The spring seemed loose in the barrel, like it was undersized. This gave me a clue to the nature of the problem.
I removed the spring and using two pair of needlenose pliers I did a bit of surgery. First was to spread the bottom of the spring, so that it took a good effort to push it back into the body, thus insuring good contact with the wall of the tube. Next I took the small end of the spring, which was twisted into a flat curlique, and again using the pliers, bent the tip end slightly upwards, where it would physically dig into the battery when the light was reassembled.
On completion of this procedure, the light came up just fine, has worked with several different batteries, and is now introduced into the EDC rotation. In the future I'll inspect all the tensioning springs in the battery compartment to insure they have GOOD electrical contact. I suspect that many of the DOA or intermittent light problems stem from insufficient electrical contact, especially since we are dealing with high-current circuits. It is very important to have a low-ohm path through the battery contacts to insure full brightness and current transfer.
This is my first post after a long absence, good to be back!
Anyway, popped in a new CR123 and gave the ring a twist but no joy - not a flicker. I removed the battery and checked it on my ZTS tester, showed full charge. Tried again and got a flicker. Tried again, got nothing.
Hmmmm....
If I unscrewed the head from the body almost all the way it would work, but the slightest jiggle would send it back into darkness. I removed the battery and looked at the tensioning spring that pushed the negative end of the battery forward. Plenty of 'spring' yet apparently no juice was flowing. The spring seemed loose in the barrel, like it was undersized. This gave me a clue to the nature of the problem.
I removed the spring and using two pair of needlenose pliers I did a bit of surgery. First was to spread the bottom of the spring, so that it took a good effort to push it back into the body, thus insuring good contact with the wall of the tube. Next I took the small end of the spring, which was twisted into a flat curlique, and again using the pliers, bent the tip end slightly upwards, where it would physically dig into the battery when the light was reassembled.
On completion of this procedure, the light came up just fine, has worked with several different batteries, and is now introduced into the EDC rotation. In the future I'll inspect all the tensioning springs in the battery compartment to insure they have GOOD electrical contact. I suspect that many of the DOA or intermittent light problems stem from insufficient electrical contact, especially since we are dealing with high-current circuits. It is very important to have a low-ohm path through the battery contacts to insure full brightness and current transfer.
This is my first post after a long absence, good to be back!