Replace Quark AA²?

Hi,

I bought a Quark AA² a couple of years ago and Im still impressed how good this flashlight is. I have also bought a Led Lenser L7 and even if its not bad the Quark is alot better!

What I dont like about the Quark is :

- To focused in the middle, It would be good if it could spread the light some more
- The control is not bad but I dont like to go through all the modes to find the right one(the flashing is just to much). The extra turn on the head is also a bit to much

Now Im looking to by a new and the question is what flashlights should I look at? I am looking for a flashlight that supports standard AA battries and that gives as much light as possible. The size should be about the same as the Quark(or smaller).

Is there a even better Quark? Or is there other models that have taken over.

If you suggest one, pleas explain why its a better choise then the Quark AA2 that I already got.


1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?


NO - I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
YES but note that I live in Sweden - This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).




2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!


Yes - Up to $100.




3) Format:


Same as the Quark AA2


4) Size:


Yes, about the same size as the Quark AA2 - SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).


5) Emitter/Light source:


Yes - LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)


6) Manufacturer:


Yes - I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.




7) What power source do you want to use?

Standard AA/AAA batteries, should be able to take Lithium as well.


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

As strong light as possible but easy to switch to read map strength. On the Quark AA2 I usually use tha MAX mode but when up close I switch down.




9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.


A nice balance where it thows a bit but at the same time floods the light.


9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)


Yes - Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
Yes - Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
Yes- 5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).


Yes -30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
Yes - 90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.


Yes -Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):


Yes- I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.


Yes - I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
Maybe - I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
Yes if it sets the throw - I want a selector ring.
No - I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
No - I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
No- I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)


14)Material/Finish/Coating


Yes - Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
Yes - Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
Yes - Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).


15) Water resistance


Yes - IPX4 (Splash resistant)


16) Storage conditions
Yes - In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
Yes - Emergency kit (long standby periods)
Yes - Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.


Pockable

There are two alternates you might consider, control rings, and side switches. So I'd look at either, the Sunwayman V20A or the Fenix LD22. The control ring on the V20A allows you to select a mode easily, though may have lower battery life than your Quark in low levels (but still quite good). The side-switch on the LD22 switches modes, but allows you to do so quickly, and more easily than your Quark. Both of these lights still have a rear switch to turn them on and off, so keep that in mind.

Now in terms of light, you'll find most will have that hot-spot effect. An XML helps, but not by a large degree. That's why you might consider a diffuser on the end. There is one for the Fenix, but I'm unsure about the V20A.

Thanks, I will look in to these.

I found the Fourseven Preon P2 that seemd really small but bright? Any one knows how it compars to the one I already have?

Get another Quark - a QT2A-X - and that will give you both the floodier beam and the simple programmable 2-mode you are looking for. Done.

If you're okay with using the same interface, Foursevens sells the same light with an XM-L emitter (larger emitter that causes larger, more dispersed hotspot). They also have the Tactical Interface, where you program two modes and switch by twisting the head. Runtime on Max is a little lower than the XP-G, but is still well within your criteria. There is also the Thrunite Neuron 2A and the Eagletac P20A2 with XM-L emitters. Finally, the Fenix LD22 uses a side switch to change the modes. It is just a hair longer than the Quark.

Are you continuing to use AA batteries, or are open to other options? I didn't see that in the checklist.

The Preon will be similar in brightness, and will be a bit floodier due to using the same LED in a smaller reflector. Just remember it runs on AAA cells as opposed to AA cells, so it won't run as long.

reppans said:

Get another Quark - a QT2A-X - and that will give you both the floodier beam and the simple programmable 2-mode you are looking for. Done.

Click to expand...

I got the QT2A-X for that exact reason, however I found that, as expected, the reflector makes a much larger difference on beam shape than the LED (I can't easily tell the difference, even outside). The Quark Tactical also still has the head twist, which the OP didn't like very much. So better to try something totally different.

reppans said:

Get another Quark - a QT2A-X - and that will give you both the floodier beam and the simple programmable 2-mode you are looking for. Done.

Click to expand...

Yes, I looked at that and it looks nice. Im a bit concern about the on/off button. It might turn on in the pocket.

CaptainPicard said:

If you're okay with using the same interface, Foursevens sells the same light with an XM-L emitter (larger emitter that causes larger, more dispersed hotspot). They also have the Tactical Interface, where you program two modes and switch by twisting the head. Runtime on Max is a little lower than the XP-G, but is still well within your criteria. There is also the Thrunite Neuron 2A and the Eagletac P20A2 with XM-L emitters. Finally, the Fenix LD22 uses a side switch to change the modes. It is just a hair longer than the Quark.

Are you continuing to use AA batteries, or are open to other options? I didn't see that in the checklist.

Click to expand...

Yes, I was first against the same interface but when thinking about it, it might be okay after all. What is the exact name of the Fouserven light that holds XM-L emitter and 2 AA batteries?

CaptainPicard said:

The Preon will be similar in brightness, and will be a bit floodier due to using the same LED in a smaller reflector. Just remember it runs on AAA cells as opposed to AA cells, so it won't run as long.

Click to expand...

Aha, sounds like it could be a good jacket light, the Quark I got is somtimes a bit heavy in the pocket.

keeperofdakeys said:

I got the QT2A-X for that exact reason, however I found that, as expected, the reflector makes a much larger difference on beam shape than the LED (I can't easily tell the difference, even outside). The Quark Tactical also still has the head twist, which the OP didn't like very much. So better to try something totally different.

Click to expand...

It might be okay with the head twist after all. The only problem with the QT2A-X is the button that might turn on in pocket.

keeperofdakeys said:

...however I found that, as expected, the reflector makes a much larger difference on beam shape than the LED (I can't easily tell the difference, even outside)..

Click to expand...

Hmmm, interesting - I have several of both XPGs and XMLs and, like the OP, I find the XPGs too throwy for my needs and XML just right. There's a big difference in beam profile to my eyes.

SnowJim said:

Yes, I looked at that and it looks nice. Im a bit concern about the on/off button. It might turn on in the pocket.

Yes, I was first against the same interface but when thinking about it, it might be okay after all. What is the exact name of the Fouserven light that holds XM-L emitter and 2 AA batteries?

Aha, sounds like it could be a good jacket light, the Quark I got is somtimes a bit heavy in the pocket.

It might be okay with the head twist after all. The only problem with the QT2A-X is the button that might turn on in pocket.

Click to expand...

The QP2A-X and QT2A-X are their only AA XML lights. If you are concerned about accidental activation (unlikely - it's a stiff button) then you can just use the reverse clicky from your current light (all Quarks lego) or buy it for $9 - but you lose the momentary feature with the reverse clicky (although I personally run my Tacticals with reverse clickies ). I would also suggest getting a 1xAA tube making it much more pocketable and consider running 3V CRAA lithium primaries (same as CR123s) or 14500 Li-ion rechargeables for full ~ 400 lumen output. Course it'll also run any 1xAlk/NiMh/L91 but at half the output.

FWIW, I use a Pro UI with its momentary-max "pseudo feature" which as become my all time favorite UI "feature" of any light - works just like car high beam flashers providing a single-handed momentary max from any lower mode in use (you could signal morse code with it). If you back the head off 1-3mm from the tight bezel position, then any sideways pressure to the head will momentary activate max. With an underhand grip, just press on the bezel with your thumb; overhand grip, just keep a pinky under the bezel and squeeze.

If looking at the Preons, I'd suggest the Preon Penlight over the P2 - it's current regulated (as opposed to PWM), and about twice as efficient on low than the P2 with a bit better build quality.... and REALLY looks like a pen (but best in a breast shirt or jacket pocket - this clicky is prone to accidental activation).

Yeah, as others have mentioned, get the Quark QT2A-X, and use a reverse clicky if you're really worried about accidental activation. I doubt you'll have a problem with the forward clicky, though, it needs a firm press to activate so not likely to happen in a pocket.

Personally, I prefer the "Pro" interface, although I understand the frustration of clicking through several modes to get to the one you want. The tactical interface is good for outdoor use, where you probably only want 2 modes.

I would recommend an Eagletac P20A2. It's an older design, but can use a variety of emitters (XP-G, XM-L, XM-L2) because of the replaceable modules. There's an easy high/low twist. There are also hidden moonlight, strobe, and other hidden modes if you twist/loosen a few more times. On High, I get 1.75 hours with an XM-L running on 2 eneloops, and 8+ hours on low.

The physical construction is pretty robust. It's certainly beefier than the quarks I have owned. I have two, one used, and one new, and they're ugly, but I use them as general purpose lights and I don't care if they get a few scratches.

Regarding Quarks:

I used to look at quarks as reliable, wallet-friend lights, but I've had too many issues with them over the years. I've owned 5 of them (QAA2 Tactical, QTA, QTA2, Qmini AA, Qturbo AA2), and all except one (the QTA) failed and had to be replaced under warranty. They weren't abused in any way, and some had minimal usage (sitting in a drawer for most of their lives).

4Sevens warranty support is very good, and I always received prompt and courteous responses to my issues, but I need my lights to be reliable. Also, the "FourSevens" to "4Sevens" re-branding that took place a few years ago came with a 30% increase on the same products but with a different logo. That rubbed me the wrong way so I voted with my wallet: Quark, never again.

Thanks for all help, its not easy to get ahold of the correct flashlight in Sweden. What do you think about the Sunwayman M20A with XML-L2 emitter?

I have a swm m20a with an R5...good mix of throw and flood. The xml would have more flood to it, which seems to be what you need. Very well made light.

I bought the Olight O'Pen P20, 180 lm and got it yesterday. It is really bright and are putting out mor flood then the Quark AA² R5. The color of the light is also more natural but a bit blue while the Quark AA² R5 has a more yellow tint.

The Quark AA² R5 do throw longer and this can bee seen on shorter distances with the clear hotspot in the middle.

First I got problem with the Olight that it would not turn on but after alot of fiddling I found that it had to be vary tightly sealed to transfer electricity.

Its a vary light flashlight that I could take anyware so Im pleased.