Who has the best UI these days (EDC or pocket carry lights)

UI's, something that should be simple and easy for manufactures to get right, but something so often ballsed up.

And I'm not talking about over complex or even programmable modes. But there are some basics that should just be part of any modern clicky torch.


These are some of the fundamentals I think any good UI should be able to do:

From the OFF position:

-Activate in Moon/Firefly (or whatever the lowest mode is)
-Activate in Turbo/Max output
-Activate in the last mode you used

If torch makers go this bit right /| /\ i.e. the turning on bit. Then chances are it would likely cover 80-90% of your flashlight needs without the user having to switch modes when on.


From the ON position:

-Instant access Turbo/Max from any mode

-Ability to mode switch up and down between the lowest modes, i.e. Moonlight -> Low -> Moonlight

-Ability to mode switch up and down between the highest modes, i.e. Turbo -> High -> Turbo

-Instant off from any mode

-Ability to cycle through all the 'main' output modes.


Obviously, if you require more modes, such as strobe, beacon, SOS, etc. Or have a tactical angle, then you may want strobe also accessible from off. You'd need to expand the UI, but at the cost of probably making it more complex. But covering the basics can easily be done with a single clicky button on a well though out UI. Or a dual button UI or a head twisty + button UI.

So why do so few torch makers get this right?


To expand on the "good" UI practices. There should always be a physical lockout. And the switches should be designed to never cause accidental activation while carrying the light.


So having defined what a good UI should look like. Which torch makers get close to offering something like this?


P.S.

This isn't about 'recommending' lights. More discussion on UI controls, current offerings and by who and the + and - points of the UI's.

You just described for yourself an HDS. The rotary series allows you to rotate the output to any levels you want before switching it on. While on any of the rotary output, a press and hold on the button will give you max output. Release to go back to where you were last on. What's more, it is fully programmable for your tastes and preferences. Built super robust, and some says EMP proof. Every light is personally calibrated to the promised lumen output and there should not be any difference in max output from one light to another. So, a 325 lumen HDS is a 325 lumen. No variations from one to another as what other manufacturers are producing. What's not to like about it? HDS lights are my all time favorite but they do cost quite a bomb. Bombproof? Yes they are, but not before my wallet explode.

That's why I carry an HDS.

Maglite AAA mini & solitaire have my favorite UI for pocket EDC (& technically meet the above criteria too):

-Instant access to highest mode
-Instant access to lowest mode
-Always comes on in the last mode used
-instant off from any mode
-Physically locks out
-Tighten for off = no accidental pocket activation

Me+Light=Addiction said:

That's why I carry an HDS.

Click to expand...

Same here

Yup, the HDS is the best I've seen. Armytek Prime is quite close to an HDS and I like the Thrunite Neutron's V2 too. I even love the loose/tight bezel UI of a Quark Pro which has a true momentary Max from ON (work-around) capable of signaling a fast morse code.

For me, the best UI feature is an instant, single-handed low>max>low capability without the rub-your-belly-pat-your-head antics.

I really like the UI on the Thrunite Neutron 2A V2. Press and hold goes to firefly from off. Press and release is the high, medium or low mode you were previously in. And double click from off or any other mode brings you to turbo. To cycle through high, medium or low, you hold down the button when the light is on.

So you can get to turbo, last regular mode used or firefly all from the off position. There aren't any other "tactical" modes. Nice and simple. It sounds a little complex, but after a few minutes it's very intuitive...




Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums

I submit the ZL interface, and that on the Olight S30, and that on the Armytek Wizard Pro, all get very close to meeting all the items on your wish list.

As it happens, I agree with most (but not all) of your suggestions for what makes a good interface. But not everyone will agree...there is a huge variety out there, and I'm sure just about every light has someone out there who thinks it has the best interface ever. Just because you value those particular operations, doesn't mean that everyone else does too. Also, I do think there is an argument for simplicity, especially for those who aren't flashaholics, i.e., most of the market. Hand someone an Armytek Wizard Pro or a Zebralight, and they will have no idea what they are doing. Whereas something like the PD35 is dead easy...one switch for on, and one switch for modes. Hard to get confused about that. A powerful and flexible interface usually comes with greater complexity...and is much less friendly to newbies.

pjandyho said:

You just described for yourself an HDS. The rotary series allows you to rotate the output to any levels you want before switching it on. While on any of the rotary output, a press and hold on the button will give you max output. Release to go back to where you were last on. What's more, it is fully programmable for your tastes and preferences. Built super robust, and some says EMP proof. Every light is personally calibrated to the promised lumen output and there should not be any difference in max output from one light to another. So, a 325 lumen HDS is a 325 lumen. No variations from one to another as what other manufacturers are producing. What's not to like about it? HDS lights are my all time favorite but they do cost quite a bomb. Bombproof? Yes they are, but not before my wallet explode.

Click to expand...

Would be the perfect light at 1.5 amps max imo.

pjandyho said:

The rotary series allows you to rotate the output to any levels you want before switching it on.

Click to expand...

Don't own such a light, but that's gotta be among the best ways to control output level.

Personally I'm not a fan of twisty interfaces, especially not for on/off (although it may have some advantages). Or complicated mode selection like on (some?) Armytek lights. But in case where simply the position of the head determines output mode, and you use a separate on/off button (preferably with momentary on): yes please!

If you only use 1 button, the interface many Olights use is best imho. From off:

• Simply click for on, in last used mode.
• Hold to enter moonlight mode.
• Double click for on in high mode.
• When on, hold to cycle through modes (in L->M->H direction).

Doesn't get much better for 1-button control. ZebraLight UI is very similar.

recDNA said:

Would be the perfect light at 1.5 amps max imo.

Click to expand...

That would be great too, but for an EDC sized light using only a single CR123 format, it would drastically affect runtime. I wish we are able to program the light to 1.5 amps when used in conjunction with the new 18650 tubes. That will be real sweet!

pjandyho said:

That would be great too, but for an EDC sized light using only a single CR123 format, it would drastically affect runtime. I wish we are able to program the light to 1.5 amps when used in conjunction with the new 18650 tubes. That will be real sweet!

Click to expand...

It only affects run time if user brainlessly uses max all the time. With rotary you could run at .8 amp and have same runtime you do now. I would go max. U don't have to.

They don't figure mpg of a car at full throttle because you almost never need full throttle yet the presumption is you give the dumb flashaholic 1.5 amps he will run full throttle all the time.

RetroTechie said:

Don't own such a light, but that's gotta be among the best ways to control output level.

Personally I'm not a fan of twisty interfaces, especially not for on/off (although it may have some advantages). Or complicated mode selection like on (some?) Armytek lights. But in case where simply the position of the head determines output mode, and you use a separate on/off button (preferably with momentary on): yes please!

If you only use 1 button, the interface many Olights use is best imho. From off:

• Simply click for on, in last used mode.
• Hold to enter moonlight mode.
• Double click for on in high mode.
• When on, hold to cycle through modes (in L->M->H direction).

Doesn't get much better for 1-button control. ZebraLight UI is very similar.

Click to expand...

It is not exactly a twisty. It is a clicky with a rotary dial to control the light output. One can also program to shut down the rotary function and use a series of clicks to get to the desired levels. In this case, one might be better off buying a HDS clicky instead for the added robustness sans the rotary dial.

I have not tried an Olight since none of the design really appeals to me and can't comment much about them. From the few videos I have watched by GoingGear, I personally felt that though the UI of an Olight is nice and simple to use, it is still inferior (for lack of a better word) to that of the HDS rotary series. If you have not tried one you should, because I hardly see anyone who has held a HDS rotary in their hands having regretted getting one. There is a reason why the HDS thread is probably the longest thread in CPF.

recDNA said:

It only affects run time if user brainlessly uses max all the time. With rotary you could run at .8 amp and have same runtime you do now. I would go max. U don't have to.

They don't figure mpg of a car at full throttle because you almost never need full throttle yet the presumption is you give the dumb flashaholic 1.5 amps he will run full throttle all the time.

Click to expand...

The truth is I personally don't run my lights at max because I prefer to protect my night vision but many flashlight users I have met does. Almost everyone I have met runs their lights on max output throughout the trekking trip I went to. So yes, users do run their lights at max and I believe Henry at HDS have to put that into consideration when designing the light. I want brighter for the extra reach if need be but I am happy with what I am offered.

Me+Light=Addiction said:

That's why I carry an HDS.

Click to expand...

What is HDS for us new guys? thanks!

scwood, Search HDS Systems and enjoy.

I like to follow the KISS formula: QTC UI. The Fraz light is so so nice....or Quantum D2, You twist and go!

pjandyho said:

The truth is I personally don't run my lights at max because I prefer to protect my night vision but many flashlight users I have met does. Almost everyone I have met runs their lights on max output throughout the trekking trip I went to. So yes, users do run their lights at max and I believe Henry at HDS have to put that into consideration when designing the light. I want brighter for the extra reach if need be but I am happy with what I am offered.

Click to expand...

But the point is it is the USER'S choice. User won't complain about run time if they elect to run full throttle. Drivers can't complain about gas milage if it is pedel to the metal. I also disagree about most flashaholics running full blast all the time. Maybe with HDS they do because it is so underdriven but if you run a v11r full blast it is too hot to hold in 10 minutes.

Do you think Toyota should set max speed to 60 mph in order to make sure everyone gets good run time?

scwood said:

What is HDS for us new guys? thanks!

Click to expand...

I find this an interesting video explaining the rotary and HDS very well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA6vlgrk0fI
Also plenty of videos on the clicky HDS.

My favourite is the Hyperion driver UI, available on here from Mattaus .

Love the fact that you get 2 mode groups of 8 per group if you want, strobe, Beacon, sos, moonlight/firefly with 10% increments all the way up to turbo. And all controllable from clicking. No need to send away when you want to change it up..

Oh and quick access the battery level in the menu.

recDNA said:

But the point is it is the USER'S choice. User won't complain about run time if they elect to run full throttle. Drivers can't complain about gas milage if it is pedel to the metal. I also disagree about most flashaholics running full blast all the time. Maybe with HDS they do because it is so underdriven but if you run a v11r full blast it is too hot to hold in 10 minutes.

Do you think Toyota should set max speed to 60 mph in order to make sure everyone gets good run time?

Click to expand...

I don't understand why you keep using cars as an analogy? If you need a sports car then go for a Lamborghini. You don't expect to buy a Toyota and expect it to perform like the Lamborghini, and when it doesn't you claimed that the manufacturer should drive it harder, just like how HDS should drive their flashlight harder to match some other brands which don't give a hood about heat management and runtime? If HDS is able to drive their lights harder I am all game for it, but if Henry is not willing to for design reasons, I respect his decision. Let's just agree to disagree here shall we?