Belstaff1464
Enlightened
Is there a link that shows pictures the different type of Bezels?
Here's a pic of the 3 different SS bezels. The black Ti bezel is indistinguishable in appearance from the black steel one.
Is there a link that shows pictures the different type of Bezels?
Ah sorry. 300 SGD, approx 232 USD.
The official Surefire dealer in Singapore charges an arm and a leg.. and they are there is only 1 dealer :shakehead
Here's a pic of the 3 different SS bezels. The black Ti bezel is indistinguishable in appearance from the black steel one.
Is the smooth bezel the same height as the crenelated bezel?
Here's a pic of the 3 different SS bezels. The black Ti bezel is indistinguishable in appearance from the black steel one.
Wow! The orange with the black bezel and hex screw sure looks sexy!
That's Jughead......from the Archie Comics . Also looks a bit like Carrot to me. Jughead no longer wears a black hat. That was part of the price that I had to pay for my Ti Clicky.......(Damn you Pete !!!). I'll order another one soon but don't wanna have to pay $40 shipping for a $22 bezel so I'll wait for the Cerakoted version to come out and order a whole bunch then.
lol.. jughead. Did the cerakoted clicky come with this bezel? I thought the bezels were cerakoted too.
But the black bezel doesn't look like the ones from HDS. Mine look more like gray than black. More like pencil lead than the striking black on your bezel. Is your bezel specially coated or has it got to do with how the camera renders the color? Ohhh I love Jughead!Nope......Jughead originally had a matching orange hat. And he's all orange once more...........at least until I get some more black bezels........or a dark blue anodized one from Chip .
But the black bezel doesn't look like the ones from HDS. Mine look more like gray than black. More like pencil lead than the striking black on your bezel. Is your bezel specially coated or has it got to do with how the camera renders the color? Ohhh I love Jughead!
Belstaff,
Your photography skill is good to go. I guess it has to do with how the AlTin coating reflects the light. Honestly, I am not keen in the orange cerakote but your orange and black bezel really drew my attention. Well done for this combination! :thumbsup:
Like what he said... looks like carrot. :nana:looked just like a smiley face to me :devil:
Belstaff,
I guess it has to do with how the AlTin coating reflects the light. :thumbsup:
nbp said:I still want a bright green clicky like the color of this smiley. Freakin' awesome. oo:
But Henry says no, and I don't think anyone else can/will do it...so I'm up a creek.
congrats. that is a screaming deal on those twistys. If all my discretionary funds weren't being pointed Gene Malkoff's way right now, I would pick up another myself. congrats. that is a screaming deal on those twistys. If all my discretionary funds weren't being pointed Gene Malkoff's way right now, I would pick up another myself.CLBME said:Ok Iacchus, thanks to you and Bansuri posting on the Twisty thread I now have another Twisty on the way. :thumbsup: I've always wanted a smooth bezel so my next move will be to order one from Henry for the new Twisty.
The question now for those of you who have done it: How hard is it to remove/install a new bezel? I've not done it before. There were some posts quite a while ago but I couldn't find them. Thanks all as usual.
Christian.
iacchus said:congrats. that is a screaming deal on those twistys. If all my discretionary funds weren't being pointed Gene Malkoff's way right now, I would pick up another myself.
as far as the bezel goes, it is just a matter of wrapping it in a rubber band and unscrewing it. some put it bezel down on a mousepad for similar effect. I am sure someonee will be along shortly with more detailed instructions soon.
let us know how it goes!
nutcracker said:Here you go. (only quick photoshopped, so you can see some orange at the edges)
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=5127590578_1a51331337_y9jq.jpg
I had a few posts back and forth with Henry on this topic awhile back. I will try to find them. I had a few posts back and forth with Henry on this topic awhile back. I will try to find them.CLBME said:Ok Iacchus, thanks to you and Bansuri posting on the Twisty thread I now have another Twisty on the way. :thumbsup: I've always wanted a smooth bezel so my next move will be to order one from Henry for the new Twisty.
The question now for those of you who have done it: How hard is it to remove/install a new bezel? I've not done it before. There were some posts quite a while ago but I couldn't find them. Thanks all as usual.
Christian.
Don't think that would sell well but lime green is my favorite color. Don't think that would sell well but lime green is my favorite color.nbp said:I still want a bright green clicky like the color of this smiley. Freakin' awesome. oo:
But Henry says no, and I don't think anyone else can/will do it...so I'm up a creek.
pjandyho said:Don't think that would sell well but lime green is my favorite color.
I just simply untwisted it with my bare hands. Just make sure that the light is perfectly vertical so that the lens and O-rings don't fall out. I've swapped and changed bezels on all my Clickies and I've never had any problems. When putting the new bezel on, I have the bezel face down on a flat surface and I then insert the first O-ring, then the lens, and then the second O-ring. I then simply invert the rest of the light onto the bezel and twist until there's no more gap between head an bezel. I find this method works best for me. I just simply untwisted it with my bare hands. Just make sure that the light is perfectly vertical so that the lens and O-rings don't fall out. I've swapped and changed bezels on all my Clickies and I've never had any problems. When putting the new bezel on, I have the bezel face down on a flat surface and I then insert the first O-ring, then the lens, and then the second O-ring. I then simply invert the rest of the light onto the bezel and twist until there's no more gap between head an bezel. I find this method works best for me.CLBME said:The question now for those of you who have done it: How hard is it to remove/install a new bezel? I've not done it before. There were some posts quite a while ago but I couldn't find them. Thanks all as usual.
Christian.
We could always dream can't we? We could always dream can't we? As the saying goes... Dream on. :nana:nbp said:There you go again with your silly logic and business sense, messing up my plans. :nana:
But I want a oompa loompa NOW mommy!!! :laughing:
ShoulderDoc said:I hope Henry will offer a Jughead option (Orange body and Black Bezel) w/o holes.
Sorry man, but eyes belong on potatoes. Sorry man, but eyes belong on potatoes. :nana:Belstaff1464 said:But.......then Jughead will have no eyes !!
kaichu dento said:Sorry man, but eyes belong on potatoes. :nana:
LOL!!! LOL!!!kaichu dento said:Sorry man, but eyes belong on potatoes. :nana:
nbp said:I had a few posts back and forth with Henry on this topic awhile back. I will try to find them.
Yup, go to part 9, post 591. Start there, and scan the next page or two, there's a few posts from Henry on it.
Belstaff1464 said:I just simply untwisted it with my bare hands. Just make sure that the light is perfectly vertical so that the lens and O-rings don't fall out. I've swapped and changed bezels on all my Clickies and I've never had any problems. When putting the new bezel on, I have the bezel face down on a flat surface and I then insert the first O-ring, then the lens, and then the second O-ring. I then simply invert the rest of the light onto the bezel and twist until there's no more gap between head an bezel. I find this method works best for me.
I wouldn't worry about the dead cell, just throw a fresh one in. If you buy direct from Henry, they come with a Duracell. I wouldn't worry about the dead cell, just throw a fresh one in. If you buy direct from Henry, they come with a Duracell.alanjeep said:I received my 120E Ra today from battery Station.
I have a few questions.
Mine came with a battery station brand battery.
Thought they all came with Duracell. The battery was dead (.2vdc), is this anything to be concerned with?
It also came with the large silver clip that installs with 2 screws. This is not my cup of tea. What do you guys recommend?
thanks
alanjeep said:I received my 120E Ra today from battery Station.
I have a few questions.
Mine came with a battery station brand battery.
Thought they all came with Duracell. The battery was dead (.2vdc), is this anything to be concerned with?
It also came with the large silver clip that installs with 2 screws. This is not my cup of tea. What do you guys recommend?
thanks
alanjeep said:Belstaff,
do these lights have parasitic draw by design?
Mine is pulling 1.6mA with the light off.
Serial number is 8026, if that helps.
I am not sure what you are speaking of here. The Molle compatible clips fit mine just fine, and all of my Clickys are the new design. I am not sure what you are speaking of here. The Molle compatible clips fit mine just fine, and all of my Clickys are the new design.u238 said:Speaking of the threaded holes...
Why do they even exist anymore? Now that the spacing is wider, the old MOLLE compatible clip won't fit, and there isn't another clip that will fit that I know of. Then again, I don't mind having them as it allows for custom clips.
iacchus said:I am not sure what you are speaking of here. The Molle compatible clips fit mine just fine, and all of my Clickys are the new design.
I like the holes, and would hate to see them go. The huge molle compatible clips serve a good use, and work well. If you are actually using molle gear, they are fantastic.I use one to keep my 170 attached to the strap of my gearslinger.
The holes also allow a wide variety of aftermarket, 3rd party custom clips to be used. Some are very nice.
That makes me sad. That makes me sad.Belstaff1464 said:I've heard from a reliable source that future Clickies will be sans screw holes.
Glad to hear that your problems have been addressed. Thanks for keeping us updated. Glad to hear that your problems have been addressed. Thanks for keeping us updated.u238 said:I got my 170T back and it's much better this time around. HDS told me that they couldn't find the level of dust that I reported, but it sure looks a lot better so they must have done something. My pocket clip no longer rotates either. :thumbsup: I really do love how this light feels in the hand and how it's built like a tank. I am particularly impressed with the wall thickness of the battery compartment and the system that suspends the battery. Judging by the depth of threaded holes for the old clip, the wall of the head must be immensely thick.
Speaking of the threaded holes...
Why do they even exist anymore? Now that the spacing is wider, the old MOLLE compatible clip won't fit, and there isn't another clip that will fit that I know of. Then again, I don't mind having them as it allows for custom clips.
At some point the hole spacing increased and the MOLLE compatible clip was not modified to fit. This is confirmed as of last Saturday by HDS via email. BTW, I have a gearslinger also . At some point the hole spacing increased and the MOLLE compatible clip was not modified to fit. This is confirmed as of last Saturday by HDS via email. BTW, I have a gearslinger also .iacchus said:I am not sure what you are speaking of here. The Molle compatible clips fit mine just fine, and all of my Clickys are the new design.
I like the holes, and would hate to see them go. The huge molle compatible clips serve a good use, and work well. If you are actually using molle gear, they are fantastic.I use one to keep my 170 attached to the strap of my gearslinger.
The holes also allow a wide variety of aftermarket, 3rd party custom clips to be used. Some are very nice.
That's a really nice setup. In what way did you have to modify the clip? That's a really nice setup. In what way did you have to modify the clip?Belstaff1464 said:Another solution is to use a modified Solarforce Clip as I have. I chose this option because it has the lanyard hole. The cheapest option is the modified SF Clip. It is polished SS so there's no coating to rub off. I got mine for $5 from fleaBay.
pjandyho said:Hi James,
Why do you have to place the uncoated clip overnight in the water? Is there a reason? Or was it a genuine mistake?
Oh... makes sense now. I thought it was to soften some remaining coating or something like that. Oh... makes sense now. I thought it was to soften some remaining coating or something like that.Belstaff1464 said:He was testing to see if it was stainless steel. If I'm not mistaken, it's made of spring steel which is not rust resistant.
pjandyho said:Oh... makes sense now. I thought it was to soften some remaining coating or something like that.
LOL! LOL!jslappa said:Great pics PSM. Whoever sold that to you must not be too bright :duh2:
Either that, or he had a spare :thumbsup:
This is why I sprung for the Ti Clip. (Pun intended) This is why I sprung for the Ti Clip. (Pun intended)jimmy1970 said:
James....
It's virtually impossible to clean something like a fingerprint from a reflector without scratching the reflective surface. Avoid opening the head of your light and touching the reflector at all costs. It's virtually impossible to clean something like a fingerprint from a reflector without scratching the reflective surface. Avoid opening the head of your light and touching the reflector at all costs.HIDblue said:I was staring at the reflector of my 170 on the low setting, and to my dismay, there appears to be a partial fingerprint on the reflector right where the reflector meets the lens. I can even see the ridge detail of the partial fingerprint on the reflector.
Does anyone else have this issue with their clicky? Am I being too nit-picky by noticing this? And is there any way for me to clean that print off without scratching the reflector? :thinking:
I don't agree. We are quite a compulsive bunch. If it bothers him, then it IS an issue. Henry can determine how - or if - he will deal with it. I don't agree. We are quite a compulsive bunch. If it bothers him, then it IS an issue. Henry can determine how - or if - he will deal with it.scottaw said:there's no way that should be a return
PoliceScannerMan said:I've had fingerprints on a McGizmo reflector before. I sent the reflector to a lab to extract Dons DNA, I am currently waiting on my cloned Don McLeish so I can have my very own custom builder.
You can do the same with Henry's DNA, PM sent! :twothumbs
It is this attitude that has lead to a (subjective) general overall decrease it quality over the years, in ALL commodities. If you accept a 1" swirl in paint this year, It is this attitude that has lead to a (subjective) general overall decrease it quality over the years, in ALL commodities. If you accept a 1" swirl in paint this year, guaranteed you will see more 2" swirls next year.scottaw said:If you bought a car for 20k, would you return it for a 1" swirl in the paint? No.
I guess that means having a fingerprint on the reflector makes the light even more valuable I guess that means having a fingerprint on the reflector makes the light even more valuable :thumbsup: To the marketplace!PoliceScannerMan said:I've had fingerprints on a McGizmo reflector before. I sent the reflector to a lab to extract Dons DNA, I am currently waiting on my cloned Don McLeish so I can have my very own custom builder.
You can do the same with Henry's DNA, PM sent! :twothumbs
HIDblue said:Am I being too nit-picky by noticing this? And is there any way for me to clean that print off without scratching the reflector? :thinking:
No one is saying anything about it affecting the beam. No one is saying anything about it affecting the beam.Belstaff1464 said:A finger print will not affect the beam.
IMHO, you are not. IMHO, you are not.HIDblue said:Am I being too nit-picky by noticing this?
shane45_1911 said:No one is saying anything about it affecting the beam.
In many cases, cosmetics is just as important in a consumer's mind, as fuctionality. To try to discourage this mindset is doing a dis-service to all consumers - and promoting poor QC at a manufacturer level.
Yes, it is a flashlight - and it will continue to function as such. So will a brand new car that has a scratch in its new paint from one end of the vehicle to another.
Anyway, I have no dog in this fight...out.
If I remember, I think Henry did mention somewhere that the clicky switch was tested for a million cycle. Guess it would take you a whole lifetime to wear it down. It is akin to the clicky in your computer mouse. You could click it for as many times but it would just keep working. If I remember, I think Henry did mention somewhere that the clicky switch was tested for a million cycle. Guess it would take you a whole lifetime to wear it down. It is akin to the clicky in your computer mouse. You could click it for as many times but it would just keep working.foxtrot29 said:Just got my HDS 170T today! Pictures later! From the brief few minutes I played with it, looks like no missing ando spots, aligned bezel, cool tint (as expected).
Being the first HDS light I bought, the first thing I noticed:
I have never experienced a tailcap switch like this on any other light. It makes me understand the HDS instruction manuels so much more.
I hope it's a sturdy switch! Feels like it...
Completely agree DM51. Completely agree DM51.DM51 said:An extended debate on Fingerprints vs. No Fingerprints would most likely be even more distracting than one on Holes vs. No Holes.
Both points of view are legitimate, but you'll just have to agree to disagree. Those who are affected should take it up direct with HDS if they feel it necessary to do so.
Meanwhile, let's get back on topic - we don't want the thread hijacked by such a divisive issue.
That was my impression when I got my first GD D10, but the answer is that it's nothing more than a name and there are some very cold tinted samples out there too. Anyone remember the tint lottery days when it was assumed that you were literally given zero choices on what kind of tint you would get. That was my impression when I got my first GD D10, but the answer is that it's nothing more than a name and there are some very cold tinted samples out there too. Anyone remember the tint lottery days when it was assumed that you were literally given zero choices on what kind of tint you would get.scottaw said:...are all the gd emitters "golden" tinted? Mine seems much warmer than I expected for not being listed as a "warm white". It gives a very nice color rendering outside.
Foxtrot, I have a 170 too but I think the tint on mine is more neutral/warmish than I expected, especially compared to some other lights that I have that are definitely on the cool blue-ish side. Maybe just luck of the draw...or I'm more color blind than I know? Foxtrot, I have a 170 too but I think the tint on mine is more neutral/warmish than I expected, especially compared to some other lights that I have that are definitely on the cool blue-ish side. Maybe just luck of the draw...or I'm more color blind than I know? oo:foxtrot29 said:Just got my HDS 170T today! Pictures later! From the brief few minutes I played with it, looks like no missing ando spots, aligned bezel, cool tint (as expected).
They are definitely more warm than your typical cool white led. They are definitely more warm than your typical cool white led.HIDblue said:Foxtrot, I have a 170 too but I think the tint on mine is more neutral/warmish than I expected, especially compared to some other lights that I have that are definitely on the cool blue-ish side. Maybe just luck of the draw...or I'm more color blind than I know? oo:
The beam pattern is very smooth and I'm glad I chose the 170 narrow beam.
On closer inspection, it is kind of gold/yellow near the corona, then it kind of gets cooler in the flood part of the beam. Very smooth beam - overall I'm quite happy with it. This is the first GD emitter light I own. On closer inspection, it is kind of gold/yellow near the corona, then it kind of gets cooler in the flood part of the beam. Very smooth beam - overall I'm quite happy with it. This is the first GD emitter light I own.HIDblue said:Foxtrot, I have a 170 too but I think the tint on mine is more neutral/warmish than I expected, especially compared to some other lights that I have that are definitely on the cool blue-ish side. Maybe just luck of the draw...or I'm more color blind than I know? oo:
The beam pattern is very smooth and I'm glad I chose the 170 narrow beam.
I found that out the hard way when I tried to clean a fingerprint off mine (it was my own fingerprint, by the way, from accidentally touching the reflector). I got the print off fine, but I also left a number of hairline scratches all over the surface of the reflector. Thankfully, employing nbp's "Point the light away from you and turn it on" technique seemed to fix the problem. That is to say the output and beam quality was not affected by my heavy-handed cleaning. Still, I wouldn't recommend it. I found that out the hard way when I tried to clean a fingerprint off mine (it was my own fingerprint, by the way, from accidentally touching the reflector). I got the print off fine, but I also left a number of hairline scratches all over the surface of the reflector. Thankfully, employing nbp's "Point the light away from you and turn it on" technique seemed to fix the problem. That is to say the output and beam quality was not affected by my heavy-handed cleaning. Still, I wouldn't recommend it.UnderTheWeepingMoon said:It's virtually impossible to clean something like a fingerprint from a reflector without scratching the reflective surface.
Yeah, I thought the drop would bother me, but unless you're white wall hunting and staring at the beam, you can't really notice the drop during actual use. Yeah, I thought the drop would bother me, but unless you're white wall hunting and staring at the beam, you can't really notice the drop during actual use.foxtrot29 said:Like others here have said, I hardly notice the drop from burst 170 to 120. Odd.
Wow, thanks for the heads up. Wow, thanks for the heads up.the.Mtn.Man said:I found that out the hard way when I tried to clean a fingerprint off mine (it was my own fingerprint, by the way, from accidentally touching the reflector). I got the print off fine, but I also left a number of hairline scratches all over the surface of the reflector. Thankfully, employing nbp's "Point the light away from you and turn it on" technique seemed to fix the problem. That is to say the output and beam quality was not affected by my heavy-handed cleaning. Still, I wouldn't recommend it.
:thumbsup:nbp said:Did you guys ever check out Henry's testimonial page? I just found it; It's pretty cool. Some of us are famous. :naughty: :twothumbs
jellydonut said:Is that what they were? I realized they were single-cell LED lights, but to me they were too small to make out. :sigh: Looked more like generic Fenix/Quark type single cell lights, but I don't know.
http://i.imgur.com/rzLLv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uBYbe.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4Wl7I.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kXiVH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/f6ARl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Id332.jpg
Click for full rez.
I always pictured HDS lights as bigger than that since people complain that they are large for single-cell lights.
I think it was generally agreed that the second pic is NOT an HDS clicky, but the other lights are contested. I think it was generally agreed that the second pic is NOT an HDS clicky, but the other lights are contested.Belstaff1464 said:Looks a bit too short in the 2nd pic.....
If you have largish hands that's exactly how it would fit in your mitt. I don't have very long fingers and holding it in that position it looks quite similar proportionally. The shape is right, size is right, the cren bezel is right, sure seems like it. Unless someone can come up with a better idea. If you have largish hands that's exactly how it would fit in your mitt. I don't have very long fingers and holding it in that position it looks quite similar proportionally. The shape is right, size is right, the cren bezel is right, sure seems like it. Unless someone can come up with a better idea. :shrug:Belstaff1464 said:Looks a bit too short in the 2nd pic.....
They aren't THAT heavy. Even the Ti clicky, which is noticeably heavier than the Al clicky can easily be handled with a thumb tip/index finger tip/middle finger tip tripod as shown. Give 'er a try Belstaff. They aren't THAT heavy. Even the Ti clicky, which is noticeably heavier than the Al clicky can easily be handled with a thumb tip/index finger tip/middle finger tip tripod as shown. Give 'er a try Belstaff.Belstaff1464 said:they also seem to be holding the lights daintily which makes me think that they are very light......too light to be a HDS.
Ahh yes, the new HDS model: the Clicky Crimefighter, capable of communicating with other clickies while cracking down on evildoers. I believe it's getting its own CSI platform: CSI Clicky Unit. Ahh yes, the new HDS model: the Clicky Crimefighter, capable of communicating with other clickies while cracking down on evildoers. I believe it's getting its own CSI platform: CSI Clicky Unit.pjandyho said:That must be the new AA clicky with the new networked multi-processor interface! See how all of them networked together as a team? :lolsign:
nbp said:If you have largish hands that's exactly how it would fit in your mitt. I don't have very long fingers and holding it in that position it looks quite similar proportionally. The shape is right, size is right, the cren bezel is right, sure seems like it. Unless someone can come up with a better idea. :shrug:
They aren't THAT heavy. Even the Ti clicky, which is noticeably heavier than the Al clicky can easily be handled with a thumb tip/index finger tip/middle finger tip tripod as shown. Give 'er a try Belstaff.
That's perfect! That's perfect! :thumbsup:foxtrot29 said:Question for you veteran owners:
I just bought a HDS 170T. I read in the manual that when you perform a battery change, the light comes on dimly for 7 seconds to indicate it is functioning properly, and if this doesn't happen to keep the battery out for 60 seconds then put it in (forcing a reset).
Mine NEVER comes on dimly for 7 seconds -- UNLESS I pull the battery for the 60 seconds, in which case it always comes on dimly for the 7 seconds.
Is this not good? Hasn't seemed to affect anything else...
Ah, I sent the same question to Henry and he hasn't gotten back to me -- probably thinks I'm a moron. lol... Good to know it's, uh, all good. Ah, I sent the same question to Henry and he hasn't gotten back to me -- probably thinks I'm a moron. lol... Good to know it's, uh, all good.Henk_Lu said:That's perfect! :thumbsup:
You just misunderstood the reason and the meaning of the 7 seconds dim light. Instead of waiting 60 seconds, you may also leave the light on while screwing it apart, the capacitor will be empty at once and the light will always light up its 7 seconds.
That's not necessary however, if you don't use another battery. If you just screw your light apart and put it together again with the same battery, there is no reason for a reset. The reset is important for the light to check the battery and recognize it as primary or li-ion. While I don't know what else is checked, the dim light indicates that the battery has been recognized and is OK. :wave:
Nope, he will answer you, he answered me each time and stupid things I did and wrote for sure... Nope, he will answer you, he answered me each time and stupid things I did and wrote for sure...foxtrot29 said:Ah, I sent the same question to Henry and he hasn't gotten back to me -- probably thinks I'm a moron. lol... Good to know it's, uh, all good.
I had talked with another member about having had to send in lights for Henry to fix and he said that it made him feel a lot better knowing that the light had been personally inspected by Henry to see what the problem was and fixed to his specifications. I quite agree with regard to my repaired lights, and suspect that's why you feel better about it too. It's called peace of mind my friend, and it's one of the reasons Henry and HDS is tops in my book. I had talked with another member about having had to send in lights for Henry to fix and he said that it made him feel a lot better knowing that the light had been personally inspected by Henry to see what the problem was and fixed to his specifications. I quite agree with regard to my repaired lights, and suspect that's why you feel better about it too. It's called peace of mind my friend, and it's one of the reasons Henry and HDS is tops in my book. :thumbsup:Henk_Lu said:Nope, he will answer you, he answered me each time and stupid things I did and wrote for sure...
I guess he's quite busy or not in his office, I also wrote him a mail today to thank him for having fixed my 170Cn, which had been a victim of my stupidity. My light came back today and it is perfect by now, even better than it was when I got it 1,5 years ago, for a reason I don't really understand. :twothumbs
Mine is.. green. LOL Mine is.. green. LOLu238 said:They are definitely more warm than your typical cool white led.
scottaw said:So I've been carrying my light for a week or so, and my altin bezel has a bunch of scratches :thinking: I thought this was supposed to be super tough?
scottaw said:Not worried about the scratches at all, I just thought it was tougher than HA, which I havent managed to hurt yet.
Speaking of patina, why haven't we seen a brass bezel for any light yet, that would look awesome, and be a great heatsink.
foxtrot29 said:It might be tougher, but it seems thinner, no?
Either way, I've been carrying mine for a few days now, maybe a few minor "micro" scratches, but nothing that I could really notice unless I was looking. They certainly don't go through the coating.
Mine was a spinner with stock clip, my Moddo Ti clip does not spin, not even with force. Mine was a spinner with stock clip, my Moddo Ti clip does not spin, not even with force. :twothumbsfoxtrot29 said:Mine also rotates with minimal resistance (i can spin it with one finger easily). Stock clip. I've got the Moddoo SS on the way - I'm going to assume it'll spin as well since I've read it's the same thickness. I don't care - it holds the light in place. In general - I'm happy if the light functions as specified and if it's as durable as everyone says.
Hey! That's promising news! Either way though, not a big issue for me. Hey! That's promising news! Either way though, not a big issue for me.PoliceScannerMan said:Mine was a spinner with stock clip, my Moddo Ti clip does not spin, not even with force. :twothumbs
thanks it is my first hds I love this light thanks it is my first hds I love this lightjimmy1970 said:Wow, free 'tent'. Great deal.
James....
P.S. Great choice of light - I love those Hi CRI lights.
I'm with you... my 2nd one is on its way to me now. The tints are perfect for me and the beam shape of the HDS w/the Seoul LED is 2nd to none. I'm with you... my 2nd one is on its way to me now. The tints are perfect for me and the beam shape of the HDS w/the Seoul LED is 2nd to none.PoliceScannerMan said:Lotta High CRI fans, I am an outsider. I cant get enough of my 140GT!!! :rock:
Agreed. I have a Ti Clicky and a Ti Twisty and a Orange Cerakote 170. With all that goodness i just can't get enough 140GT. The beam is perfect no doubt. Agreed. I have a Ti Clicky and a Ti Twisty and a Orange Cerakote 170. With all that goodness i just can't get enough 140GT. The beam is perfect no doubt.:)> said:I'm with you... my 2nd one is on its way to me now. The tints are perfect for me and the beam shape of the HDS w/the Seoul LED is 2nd to none.
PoliceScannerMan said:Agreed. I have a Ti Clicky and a Ti Twisty and a Orange Cerakote 170. With all that goodness i just can't get enough 140GT. The beam is perfect no doubt.
I wish there was a way to have a Ti 140GT.
:naughty:
PoliceScannerMan said:Ti Twisty
Here ya go. Here ya go.nbp said:If you get a spare moment could you post a couple pics of the Ti duo for me? I would be much obliged my friend. Now that's a nice pair! :naughty:
PoliceScannerMan said:The Ti Pair:
As far as I know, all HDS lights are made from the same stock of components. The only real difference between them is the emitter. The lower output emitters are probably easier and cheaper to source, hence the cheaper end product. As far as I know, all HDS lights are made from the same stock of components. The only real difference between them is the emitter. The lower output emitters are probably easier and cheaper to source, hence the cheaper end product.gunga said:Do the higher models have a better coating?
The black bezels are only available in steel and titanium and are all AlTiN coated. They're my favorite, except for the bare bezel on the Ti Ra's. The black bezels are only available in steel and titanium and are all AlTiN coated. They're my favorite, except for the bare bezel on the Ti Ra's. :twothumbsgunga said:Hey guys, is there a difference in the coating on the black bezels based on model? I know there used to be but I'm not sure anymore...
Do the higher models have a better coating?
At one time the lowest priced Tactical model came with a black oxide coating same as the clip. I am not sure if this is the case anymore. At one time the lowest priced Tactical model came with a black oxide coating same as the clip. I am not sure if this is the case anymore.kaichu dento said:The black bezels are only available in steel and titanium and are all AlTiN coated. They're my favorite, except for the bare bezel on the Ti Ra's. :twothumbs
cave dave said:At one time the lowest priced Tactical model came with a black oxide coating same as the clip. I am not sure if this is the case anymore.
You can pull up the cache with a google search for "Prototype 1 x AA HDS Clicky" You can pull up the cache with a google search for "Prototype 1 x AA HDS Clicky"Henk_Lu said:I just discovered that thread about a prototype 1 x AA Clicky, which seems to have disappeared now... :green:
That was not funny and I don't think Henry will like such "jokes". There is no 1xAA Clicky and there will never be one. The Clicky doesn't run on 1,5V. If Henry developped a new light which would take AA, he'd surely not look for beta-testers among (newby) CPFers! :tsk:
If you want to do a joke, then let it be a joke and not something which causes nothing else but trouble! :thumbsdow
Currently, I'm waiting for the 2xAA to show up, can't be long anymore... Currently, I'm waiting for the 2xAA to show up, can't be long anymore...wyager said:Henry will probably make one eventually.
Agreed. Even the firefighter who showed up to check on the sparking power line commented on it. Agreed. Even the firefighter who showed up to check on the sparking power line commented on it.the.Mtn.Man said:The high CRI Clicky is easily the best flashlight I've ever owned.
:wow: :bow: :bow: :rock: :wow:PoliceScannerMan said:
mefistofele86 said:Hi, i have the high CRI and i'm really happy with it but now i would like to experiment the 170T How bright is compared to other lights? Thank you
I have both (high CRI and 170), and the 170 is decidedly brighter. It isn't just the lumen output, but the 170 has a tighter hotspot with better throw. I have both (high CRI and 170), and the 170 is decidedly brighter. It isn't just the lumen output, but the 170 has a tighter hotspot with better throw.mefistofele86 said:I have RA 100 high CRI and it seems as bright as other flashlights i own so i think 170 should be truly bright
I would like to read your impression about ra 170 output, thank you
HIDblue said:Does anyone else notice that there is a shortage of HDS clickies? Is this common near the Holidays or is Henry thinning the herd through the HDS dealers to introduce a new 1x123 clicky? Maybe a clicky with more output on a single 123 batt?
I've done that one a couple lights with mixed results, so let me know if you find a reliable approach. I've done that one a couple lights with mixed results, so let me know if you find a reliable approach.Belstaff1464 said:Yep....it will work but there is more travel. I have tried this with my Ti Clicky which has a version 3 switch. I'm thinking of putting a thin layer of rubber or plastic to take up the extra gap.
Am I understanding this correctly? As long as you hold the button (press), the burst mode stays on indefinitely? Or just for 10 seconds? Am I understanding this correctly? As long as you hold the button (press), the burst mode stays on indefinitely? Or just for 10 seconds?scottaw said:Dont know how I was missing this, but the click-press/hold locks on burst mode. Aha!
kaichu dento said:I've done that one a couple lights with mixed results, so let me know if you find a reliable approach.
It would still be a burst of 10 secs before stepping one level down. It would still be a burst of 10 secs before stepping one level down.shane45_1911 said:Am I understanding this correctly? As long as you hold the button (press), the burst mode stays on indefinitely? Or just for 10 seconds?
pjandyho said:It would still be a burst of 10 secs before stepping one level down.
I'll have to check mine, I have never timed it, I just assumed it was 10 seconds. Now everyone will be checking... I'll have to check mine, I have never timed it, I just assumed it was 10 seconds. Now everyone will be checking...Belstaff1464 said:Yep.....mine steps down after 10 seconds even if I have the button pressed. Actually, mine steps down at around the 15 seconds mark. Does anyone else have a longer burst period ?
For me, For me,Blades said:I'll have to check mine, I have never timed it, I just assumed it was 10 seconds. Now everyone will be checking...
With the click, click-hold will also take you to momentary burst from the off position. Two different modes available directly from off, or using the force setting any of all four modes which you can reset in a heartbeat. Pretty damn nice! With the click, click-hold will also take you to momentary burst from the off position. Two different modes available directly from off, or using the force setting any of all four modes which you can reset in a heartbeat. Pretty damn nice!scottaw said:My epiphany was that a press hold release, then the light stays in burst, with a step down, but you don't have to hold the button after a short hold. Then if you turn the light off, it still comes back on to burst level.
I always thought you had to hold the button for the 4th level, now it will stay there and life got better.
It never came to my mind to look at the watch to mesure the burst time of my 5 Clickys. Weird, isn't it??? It never came to my mind to look at the watch to mesure the burst time of my 5 Clickys. Weird, isn't it???billbunton said:My High CRI is 12 secs
Isn't that 2 modes you're describing? Isn't that 2 modes you're describing?kaichu dento said:With the click, click-hold will also take you to momentary burst from the off position. Three modes available from off is pretty damn nice!
1. Click, click-hold = burst (Momentary) 1. Click, click-hold = burst (Momentary)chanjyj said:Isn't that 2 modes you're describing?
1. Click, click-hold = burst
2. Click = Whatever preset you set it for except preset A
I wrote that post while only half-awake and remember being a little confused while I was writing it, so I just gave up thinking and posted it! Went back and clarified what I actually should have posted had I been thinking more clearly. I wrote that post while only half-awake and remember being a little confused while I was writing it, so I just gave up thinking and posted it! Went back and clarified what I actually should have posted had I been thinking more clearly.chanjyj said:Isn't that 2 modes you're describing?
1. Click, click-hold = burst
2. Click = Whatever preset you set it for except preset A
Burst on my high CRI Clicky is exactly 10 seconds, though curiously it auto power-offs at around 11-minutes instead of the 10 stated in the manual. Burst on my high CRI Clicky is exactly 10 seconds, though curiously it auto power-offs at around 11-minutes instead of the 10 stated in the manual.foxtrot29 said:HDS 170T - 11sec on burst - measured it a few times, always come up with 11, never 10.
I think you've started something evil. lol
Well heck, they average out to 12 each Well heck, they average out to 12 eachBelstaff1464 said:I just re-timed my orange 170 ---> 13 seconds
high CRI ---> 11 seconds
And since we are at it, I want a 30 sec burst instead. And since we are at it, I want a 30 sec burst instead. :naughty:the.Mtn.Man said:Let's all send our lights back to HDS and ask Henry to fix the timing.
:devil:
jellydonut said:
carrot said:I'm an idiot. I must have lost one of the o-rings on the bezel when I was examining the glass window. Can somebody tell me what the exact dimensions of the o-ring on the bezel-side of the window is? I've already contacted Henry about getting new ones... but I'm impatient and I'd like an answer now.
carrot said:I'm an idiot. I must have lost one of the o-rings on the bezel when I was examining the glass window. Can somebody tell me what the exact dimensions of the o-ring on the bezel-side of the window is? I've already contacted Henry about getting new ones... but I'm impatient and I'd like an answer now.
And make sure you don't loose the other o-ring when opening up the bezel to take the measurement of it. And make sure you don't loose the other o-ring when opening up the bezel to take the measurement of it.Belstaff1464 said:I don't know the size.....but it's the same as the one on the other side of the window.
Soon, friend, soon. I feel I haven't put it through its paces enough yet to write a full fledged review. I'm still trying to sort out my thoughts about it. But so far I like it and I've been carrying it every day. Soon, friend, soon. I feel I haven't put it through its paces enough yet to write a full fledged review. I'm still trying to sort out my thoughts about it. But so far I like it and I've been carrying it every day.bodhran said:Carrot....you had mentioned an HDS review in an earlier post. I recieved my first HDS light, the high CRI, shortly after you. I would love to read your impressions of this light.
:bow:Googlefu: :bow:carrot said:I'm an idiot. I must have lost one of the o-rings on the bezel when I was examining the glass window. Can somebody tell me what the exact dimensions of the o-ring on the bezel-side of the window is? I've already contacted Henry about getting new ones... but I'm impatient and I'd like an answer now.
That info is also in the specifications of your user guide. That info is also in the specifications of your user guide.RocketTomato said:I am trying to get a small database started which lists the o-ring sizes used in different flashlights.
.....
Ra Clicky- Body head: 20.5 mm x 1.5 mm
Ra Clicky- Bezel: 20.5 mm x 1.5 mm
Ra Clicky- window: 19 mm x 1.0 mm
....
I had a similar problem with one of my previously owned lights with the V1 tailcap. A tailcap fault was the cause - Henry sent me a new one if I promised to return mail the faulty cap for diagnostic testing. I had a similar problem with one of my previously owned lights with the V1 tailcap. A tailcap fault was the cause - Henry sent me a new one if I promised to return mail the faulty cap for diagnostic testing.scottaw said:Light is stuck on, can't get a reset or anything. Gonna let it sit til morning, if luck is no better, hopefully cs can help.
I'm looking forward to this too. I enjoy your blog... I'm looking forward to this too. I enjoy your blog...carrot said:Soon, friend, soon. I feel I haven't put it through its paces enough yet to write a full fledged review. I'm still trying to sort out my thoughts about it. But so far I like it and I've been carrying it every day.
scottaw said:Light is stuck on, can't get a reset or anything. Gonna let it sit til morning, if luck is no better, hopefully cs can help.
Clean every electrical contact you have access too. The signal wire and the trace on the circuit board it contacts are a good place to start. Rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth if you don't have deoxit. I use a pencil eraser on the +/- battery contacts. Clean every electrical contact you have access too. The signal wire and the trace on the circuit board it contacts are a good place to start. Rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth if you don't have deoxit. I use a pencil eraser on the +/- battery contacts.scottaw said:Light is stuck on, can't get a reset or anything. Gonna let it sit til morning, if luck is no better, hopefully cs can help.
No one knows that here. BUT, you can do what I did.....Just call and indicate which style you would like, and let them know that you are going to add that information to the notes. Be sure to add the name of the CSR you talked to in those notes. No one knows that here. BUT, you can do what I did.....Just call and indicate which style you would like, and let them know that you are going to add that information to the notes. Be sure to add the name of the CSR you talked to in those notes.DuncanHynes said:I did a quick search but couldn't find out--if you order a spare bezel from HDS, does it have the RaClicky website engraved on it?
DuncanHynes said:I did a quick search but couldn't find out--if you order a spare bezel from HDS, does it have the RaClicky website engraved on it?