HDS Systems EDC # 15

[Houdiny]

I just got a message from Henry:
"it will be at least a month before the high CRI lights are available."

 

[crizyal]

I just got a message from Henry:
"it will be at least a month before the high CRI lights are available."

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I just got a message from Henry:
"it will be at least a month before the high CRI lights are available."

Are you serious, or are you just messing with us? Because a Henry month is closer to three-months.

 

[Houdiny]

Are you serious, or are you just messing with us? Because a Henry month is closer to three-months.

Yeah, I've heard that. So AT LEAST a month is probably going to be more like 4-5 months? Oh boy.
Perhaps by that time Cree will have some 4500-5000K >90 CRI emitters? Just some wishful thinking...

Edit: I'm not starting another CRI discussion here. For that, take a look at the beyond LED section. There's the right thread for that already. I just posted some nice comparative images.

 

[BigBluefish]

Having two older HDS/RA lights. a 140CN and a 100 High CRI, I just don't feel the need to splurge for another Clicky just yet.

Though an EDC 120 might make sense, just as a backup...

When a neutral or high CRI 170+ lumen clicky shows up, though, I'm in.

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

Are you serious, or are you just messing with us? Because a Henry month is closer to three-months.

Maybe the AA tubes will be ready by then too??!?

 

[pjandyho]

Maybe the AA tubes will be ready by then too??!?

Oh that would take another couple of Henry months.

 

[experimentjon]

Having two older HDS/RA lights. a 140CN and a 100 High CRI, I just don't feel the need to splurge for another Clicky just yet.

Though an EDC 120 might make sense, just as a backup...

When a neutral or high CRI 170+ lumen clicky shows up, though, I'm in.

I'm in the exact same boat. High CRI 170+ would be a winner for me. So would a Rotary with a pocket clip. High CRI on that would make it an instant buy. LOL.

 

[P_A_S_1]

I was looking at the HDS website and noticed that under the 170 lumen model it now states that they run for greater then 2 hours on high before dropping below 85 lumens. I brought a 170T over a year ago and have conducted a few runtime tests on high with new primaries and kept getting an average of 1:45 runtime before it dropped below 85 lumens. It would then run at the next lower level, 60 lumens, for an amount of time that would bring it right to the 2 hour mark. My light uses the same GDP emitter so why the difference? I do recall Henry chimed in a while ago when I first got my light and answered a runtime question I had. More or less he stated that different conditions could render different results. What are these conditions and if I duplicate them shouldn't my runtimes match?

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Screw it... I got tired of waiting for the high CRI and just went ahead and ordered a cool white Rotary.

 

[bondr006]

Screw it... I got tired of waiting for the high CRI and just went ahead and ordered a cool white Rotary.

:laughing: I do not believe you will be sorry Mtn.Man......I love mine :thumbsup:

 

[Kasé Zomé]

Hey folks,

I'm looking to pick up a rotary and there's a used one for sale that the owner states is a "few months old" and I was wondering if the earlier releases used the "cooler" white emitter or is it only the current batch (like what Oveready currently has in stock) that has a cool white tint?

Please advise.

Thanks!

 

[TyJo]

Hey folks,

I'm looking to pick up a rotary and there's a used one for sale that the owner states is a "few months old" and I was wondering if the earlier releases used the "cooler" white emitter or is it only the current batch (like what Oveready currently has in stock) that has a cool white tint?

Please advise.

Thanks!

My understanding is that all of the rotaries have had the same cool white tint, there is no difference between earlier batches and the current batch.

 

[Kasé Zomé]

^^ Thank you!

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

:laughing: I do not believe you will be sorry Mtn.Man......I love mine :thumbsup:

I should have it by Friday according to the shipping notice. I figure if I'm not happy with the cool white then I can always sell it for close to what I paid for it and get a high CRI when they're released in December (yeah, I'm calling it. ).

 

[Houdiny]

I should have it by Friday according to the shipping notice. I figure if I'm not happy with the cool white then I can always sell it for close to what I paid for it and get a high CRI when they're released in December (yeah, I'm calling it. ).

Just let us know if you like it. I'm almost sure you will.

 

[Kasé Zomé]

Woot! My first Ra / HDS light arrived today! Used 140GT w/ AlTiN Ti bezel. Now I can finally understand what all the fuss is about. The light feels great in my hand and the clicky interface is pretty cool but I've got a feeling that there'll be a rotary in my future.

 

[mrlysle]

Woot! My first Ra / HDS light arrived today! Used 140GT w/ AlTiN Ti bezel. Now I can finally understand what all the fuss is about. The light feels great in my hand and the clicky interface is pretty cool but I've got a feeling that there'll be a rotary in my future.

Grats on your new light! They really are wonderful tools. Yours looks like it's in excellent condition also! Save some pennies and get a rotary also! They're SWEET!

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

My Rotary arrived today, one day ahead of schedule which was a nice surprise. Overall fit and finish is flawless, and the rotary action feels very smooth and rock solid. It makes the light so versatile and easy to use that I wonder how I ever got along without it. I'm also loving the square cut threads. They're silky smooth and it takes fewer turns to remove the head.

The output is cool white, naturally since that's what I bought, but I don't find it objectionable. The primary difference I can see between high CRI and cool white is that the former renders reds better and the latter renders blues better, so they each have their strengths and weaknesses. If there was a way to combine them then you'd pretty much have the perfect tint (how about a quad die with 1/2 cool white and 1/2 warm high CRI?). To the eye the cool white appears pure white while the high CRI has a slight but noticeable orange tint. I'm a little surprised at how pleased I am with the look of the cool white, so I don't know how tempted I will be to trade up to a high CRI model when they're eventually released sometime in 2013.

While the emitter is perfectly centered, the beam itself does have a ring similar to previously posted pictures that is readily evident on white walls but unnoticeable when actually using the flashlight as you normally would, so it's a non-issue as far as I'm concerned.

I handed the light to my wife who was impressed with its ease of operation, so now when she borrows my flashlight, I can just hand it to her without having to turn it on to the appropriate level first. I think the biggest advantage of the Rotary is that it's so intuitive.

Edit: I just did a "backyard walk-around" test and noticed a couple of things: first of all, the transition from hot spot to spill is a lot smoother than the older model high CRI (which uses, I think, a P4?) so it appears a more even brightness from edge to edge which makes for a really nice usable beam. But because it is floodier, it appears slightly dimmer overall than the high CRI, which I actually find a nice feature because even the high CRI's lowest mode seemed almost too bright in the middle of the night. Turning the Rotary on to full bright lights up pretty much my whole backyard (roughly 150x60 ft) and I can easily make out detail on the back fence, so it has plenty of "throw" for my purposes.

 

[pjandyho]

the.Mtn.Man,

Are you sure it doesnt look brighter than your high CRI? Could you have set it to a dimmer output? Mine seems way brighter than the high CRI clicky.