HDS Systems #23

It's just...nothing. Aesthetic detail maybe?

(note that not all the Ra Twisty(ies) have the red option, I think only the 85 and maybe some rare 100 with the Golden Dragon emitter?)
I'm surprised it was a component that didn't mean anything. It looked like something was inlaid so I thought surely there must be something to it.Ra twisty, what an interesting light.
 
They were, very interesting. But too delicate. Mine has the "usual" low/medium that are not spaced out anymore. I should send it to HDS for repair or just find out which contact needs to be resoldered/reshaped.
 
They were, very interesting. But too delicate. Mine has the "usual" low/medium that are not spaced out anymore. I should send it to HDS for repair or just find out which contact needs to be resoldered/reshaped.
They're actually reasonably durable but pretty quickly remedied if needed. Been so long since I had one but it does seem that they did take a bit of effort to program, moreso than the Clicky or Rotary.

At this point, anyone still possession of a Tr85 or Tr100 should probably hang onto it. I know that at this point I wish that I'd kept one of mine.
 
I have a brand new in bag 100 Hcri with 18650 tube that was probably messed up during transport, or just screwed too tight. Never had the heart to do anything with it as it's aesthetically so perfect... It's just a half broken shelf queen at this point.
 
I see that Twisty also has the drawback that the two wire-like parts of the contacts are prone to failure.
Yes, the direct wire contact is kind of reminiscent of the one on some older McGizmo designs, and while very durable and being liked for the lack of any clicky type of switch which could fail, is also open to failure itself if the solder points get fatigued.

Here's an old picture from 2008 by member Bob showing the switching parts.

RA-Twisty-6349.jpg
 
Yes, the direct wire contact is kind of reminiscent of the one on some older McGizmo designs, and while very durable and being liked for the lack of any clicky type of switch which could fail, is also open to failure itself if the solder points get fatigued.

Here's an old picture from 2008 by member Bob showing the switching parts.

View attachment 50632
Unfortunately, here if tighten it too much, the spring can be pulled out of the solder. I had this happen and managed to fix it. Don had a more reliable spring design, there was a protective ring with a slot and when tightened to maximum there was no lateral load on the spring
 
Unfortunately, here if tighten it too much, the spring can be pulled out of the solder. I had this happen and managed to fix it. Don had a more reliable spring design, there was a protective ring with a slot and when tightened to maximum there was no lateral load on the spring
Good information that I think I never knew, or forgot. Think I'd only ever had a couple of Twistys, both having been Tr type with the red emitter.
 
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I got a new (to me) NLT clicky off the secondary. It's an LE. I want to change one of the presets, but can't remember how. I thought it was reset, wait for the light to go off, then do 20 clicks and a hold to access programming.

Am I way off?
 
Thanks! I got the preset sorted out. Now I can't activate the locator flash. I've selected the menu item a few times, but no luck. Still four clicks from off?
 
I can't activate the locator flash. I've selected the menu item a few times, but no luck. Still four clicks from off?
Great set of options with all Henry's lights and the locator beacon is one I always program right away. Not sure when exactly it started but probably 2017 or so, the locator beacon stays activated through battery changes, instead of having to turn it back on every time.
 
Great set of options with all Henry's lights and the locator beacon is one I always program right away. Not sure when exactly it started but probably 2017 or so, the locator beacon stays activated through battery changes, instead of having to turn it back on every time.
Thanks, I got it all sorted. I used to be more fluent in HDS speak, but I haven't changed clicky settings in a few years. I also ditched the pocket clip, swapped out the raised button for a flush one and now I'm toting it in a Hogo holster!
 
I got it all sorted.
congrats
encouraged me to break out the manuals and re-visit the programming

On an sw45k Rotary:
Force Preset on B mode set to the Rotary Dial (single clic),
10 lumen C mode (double clic)
Strobe on D mode (triple clic)
Preset A gives 200 lumens (hold for Turbo)
Locator Flash enabled but toggled off
Step Down (burst) disabled
Programming menu disabled
sw45k.jpg
 
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congrats
encouraged me to break out the manuals and re-visit the programming

On an sw45k Rotary:
Force Preset on B mode set to the Rotary Dial (single clic),
10 lumen C mode (double clic)
Strobe on D mode (triple clic)
Preset A gives 200 lumens (hold for Turbo)
Locator Flash enabled but toggled off
Step Down (burst) disabled
Programming menu disabled
View attachment 51454
That's quite close to my rotary settings, although I like burst mode and auto shut off.
 
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