Surefire L1 still relevant?

[leon2245]

Yeah, tried to dump mine a while back on the marketplace, without success. Not worried about relevance, but just don't care for TIR's, rear twisties, permanent clips, >single modes, & it's in-between sizes for my two carry methods of choice (too fat for a loose pocket floater, & would rather it be a little longer for fixed position upright in pocket); but its biggest problem, lack of tailstanding, I recently fixed with one of those delrin replacement rings, & it has since worked its way back into the rotation. Currently in pocket actually.

What would make it even better is if I could somehow fix that lanyard ring so it doesn't slip around the tailcap, & use it as kind of a turning handle.

 

[archimedes]

....Thanks for the compliment on the runtime thread archimedes....

Certainly, AoW, very useful info there!

Also, to the OP, might want to look for an F04 (diffuser) too ... which can be useful when a floody beam is preferred.

 

[radu1976]

The thing is, there aren't any lights that are out now that actually compete with the L1. If you want a single-cell, multi-mode tactical light, there is only one.

That Thrunite might be a fine light, but it doesn't do the same things as the L1 (outside of being a flashlight). If I recall correctly, the L1 was measured at over 300 Lumens on a single RCR123, so the Thrunite is hardly competitive there, either.

EDIT: 300 might have been with a different body (I think it was either bigchelis or Captain Spaulding that measured it), anyway, I found this http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Surefire-L1&p=3699235&viewfull=1#post3699235 which says that it runs 230 on an RCR, more than an LX2.


mcdj - The Novatacs both run on RCR123s, I don't know about the other lights.

A modded L1 might be over 200 lumens but not a stock one.
According to this review : http://light-reviews.com/surefire_l1/ , the L1 puts 50-60% more lumens with a RCR123, so that's around 150 lumens.
Still behind THRUNITE T20 with CR123 and well behind T20 with RCR123 ... if you compare apple to apple and orange to orange. T20 should be in 250-300 lumens range with a RCR123.
Personally I wouldn't use an L1 with a RCR123 only to get 35 min of runtime

 

[Z-Tab]

That's a measured, stock L1. It looks like the reviewer in your link calibrated whatever he was using to the lumens listed on the package, which are known to be understated.

 

[Chrontius]

Yeah, tried to dump mine a while back on the marketplace, without success. Not worried about relevance, but just don't care for TIR's, rear twisties, permanent clips, >single modes, & it's in-between sizes for my two carry methods of choice (too fat for a loose pocket floater, & would rather it be a little longer for fixed position upright in pocket); but its biggest problem, lack of tailstanding, I recently fixed with one of those delrin replacement rings, & it has since worked its way back into the rotation. Currently in pocket actually.

What would make it even better is if I could somehow fix that lanyard ring so it doesn't slip around the tailcap, & use it as kind of a turning handle.

Add a dab of rubber cement to the lanyard groove, then put the ring back on? Should be plenty reversible.

 

[radu1976]

That's a measured, stock L1. It looks like the reviewer in your link calibrated whatever he was using to the lumens listed on the package, which are known to be understated.

He - Mev - didn't but I did it considering the real lumens - 90-100 instead of 65 advertised -
It's known that the old SF lumens were conservative . Add 50-60% to 90-100 and you'll get 150 lumens at the best with a RCR123 but ... for 35 min
T20 will be brighter even with a primary CR123 while , with a RCR123 it will blow L1 out of the water regarding the overall output.
L1 is slightly brighter than E1B so a stock one will have at the best 100 lumens.

 

[leon2245]

Add a dab of rubber cement to the lanyard groove, then put the ring back on? Should be plenty reversible.

Thanks, I'll try that if I can figure out to get it off. I see two seams- just poke & pry?

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

A modded L1 might be over 200 lumens but not a stock one.

With an RCR123 an unmodded L1 will indeed give an LX2 a run for the money. I have more than one example of both. Get yourself an L1, an RCR, and see.

 

[radu1976]

I still doubt about that !
Running for over 30 min with one RCR123 and putting the same lumens like LX2 which is using 2 x RCR123 and runs for 1hr with those batteries ... is quite surprisingly !
I don't think that L1 is using a more efficient emitter than LX2 - which is a newer light -
Normally, if you get same lumens with one battery for a certain amount of time , then, with 2 batteries targetting the same lumens you'd get more than twice of the runtime ; not less than twice !

Mev clearly illustrated - light-reviews.com - when tested the latest L1 than the output is around 150 lumens but in any case 200 !
Othwerwise, an L1 with a primary CR123 would put 130-140 lumens in order to scream 200 with a RCR123.

I had an L1 for a short while but I hadn't test it with RCR123 . Anyways, it wasn't brighter than my E1B using CR123s.

 

[Z-Tab]

Really, look at your link and my link. In my link, run4jc says that he measured his stock L1 with a CR123 at 128 Lumens, then got 230 on an RCR123. In your link, the graphs CLEARLY show that whatever was used to measure was calibrated under the assumption that the L1's initial output was 65/10 Lumens.

I'm willing to agree that the L1 is not the absolute brightest 1xCR123 that can be bought, but it is a great light and there are no currently available 1xCR123 lights that have its combination of qualities.

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

Running for over 30 min with one RCR123 and putting the same lumens like LX2 which is using 2 x RCR123 and runs for 1hr with those batteries ... is quite surprisingly !

The L1 on an RCR has the same emitter, the XR-E, and is driven about the same as the LX2 on two RCR's, so yes, the LX2 runs about twice as long on two batteries as with one in the L1.

 

[RedLED]

Lumens are great, but sometimes you don't need all that some of these newer lights throw out, just enough to work on something or look around the house.

I still love the L1 in it's stock form and like the 10/60, last Gen. beam best. Nice round spot.

 

[RedLED]

Yeah, tried to dump mine a while back on the marketplace, without success. Not worried about relevance, but just don't care for TIR's, rear twisties, permanent clips, >single modes, & it's in-between sizes for my two carry methods of choice (too fat for a loose pocket floater, & would rather it be a little longer for fixed position upright in pocket); but its biggest problem, lack of tailstanding, I recently fixed with one of those delrin replacement rings, & it has since worked its way back into the rotation. Currently in pocket actually.

What would make it even better is if I could somehow fix that lanyard ring so it doesn't slip around the tailcap, & use it as kind of a turning handle.

Try using JB Weld, and it will do what you want it to do, however, it will not be revesrable - you will have to replace the switch/tailcap if you don't like it. Not a bad idea really.

 

[Pöbel]

I put a XP-E in my L1 - keeps the beam as tight as with XR-E but is available in higher bins - easy task and the L1 is up to date again. Only drawback - it does not work in direct drive any longer (with RCR) as the light draws 2+ Amps and the XP-E just can't handle that much. As I don't use RCRs this is no problem for me.

 

[Blindasabat]

Re: Surefire L1 still relevant? Yes

In my opinion, the L1 is a substantially better light than 95% of the other stuff that's out there.

+1 I have four.

I hope, someday, to find one of the old versions of an L1, sure, it was a bit green, but the run time on those things was nothing short of impressive!
I was really sad they killed the low low on the "improved" version.

I offer a tailcap mod service to get that low-low back. $15 for one tailcap. $12ea for two or more. Several options. PM me.

I measured 7200 lux on my cree L1 (mine is upgraded to R2-WH :devil: - and the 'green' tint of the WH bin is great for me) with an old partially used RCR123 in it. I measured 10,100 lux on a fresher 17500.

Only the Cree version of the L1 can use RCRs, but not all RCRs will fit. Only unprotected ones fit in mine.

Mcdj: All of my RCR's except one fit my two EX-10's. NovaTac fits everything, even 18350 with the brass strip mod :devil:.

I have put an E1B clip on one of mine too. Also a long E2E clip on a first gen long body. Both are great improvements.

As many rough and construction type users will attest to (most recently in the "SureFire SHOT Show 2012" thread) SureFires are actually CHEAPER in the long run than lights that cost less. Even though to casual users (95% of us) they seem the same quality, for the most demanding users SureFires last years instead of weeks or months (or days in the post I just read this morning). And the 'no questions' warranty is still tops. I also have seen coworkers with several year old worn-to-hell SureFires that they still insist on carrying verywhere. E1Ls seem very popular around here after people go through 6-10 cheaper lights in a year. THAT is how SureFire is still in business.

1st Gen L1 mods - Oh yeah! See the light in my avatar:a K2 DD on an E1 body with 2-stage McE2S tailcap (a mini-L1 TC no longer available). I have two gen 1 heads with Luxeon K2 TFFCs in them and the TVOD (very low Vf) K2 compared well to an SSC P7 when I put it up against one at a CPF meet-up. I estimate 300L OTF driven by an IMR123 at a DMM measured steady 2.25Amps. The K2 can take anything you can throw at them. I regularly run them on a bored 1st gen body that had the driver removed and a 17500 plus spacer put in it. Or an E2 body with 17670. I am considering putting an XM-L in one of those.

I also put a K2 neutral TFFC in a 2nd gen (what I call 2nd gen - the KL stlye head) and it makes a great bike headlight (as does my SOB1000 modded neutral KX head). It actually stays relatively cool while moving, but the K2 can take a lot of heat.

 

[JNewell]

Although not my favorite L1, I recently bought another last-gen L1 as a spare. Love those L1 Surefires.

Still one of my favorites. The original version has a nice flood, and a great low, may be a little purple, but this is an old light, and I remember how cool the LED L1 Surefire was when I first got it. I will just keep it stock. I have the other generations, and I like the last Gen. 10/60 best, great all purpose light for general daily use.

Also, I love my Red L1 which is a square beam, and it is very handy. Wish I had bought the first Gen. in all the colors.

True classic, and I will still be looking for spares of all Generations and colors for some time to come.

Really, the L1 is my most loved production based light in the single cell CR123 class.

 

[MarNav1]

I think the L1 is a hell of a good light, about as good as it gets. It would be nice to have an updated emitter. A real shame that SureFire discontinued it. Where did you guys get your E1B clips at?

 

[jake royston]

i just bought a brand new one it a still sealed box yesterday, (65/10 lumen "cree" model) and i have an lx2 clip which will allow for a deeper cary than with the e1b clip.

 

[mcstew]

i love my l1... it lives in the drawer of my bedside table for middle of the night emergencies. i've also taken it on every camping trip i've been on in the past 3+ years (got it in 2008) and have used it for everything from spotting eye shine on night hikes to doing early morning poop scoops in the yard. great light, in my opinion.

 

[Viper715]

I've stripped them from my E1B's. I carry my E1B on my duty belt in a pouch so no need for a clip but I pocket carry the L1 and also carry it off duty as my EDC so prefer the better clip on my L1.