Surefire L1 still relevant?

Monocrom

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L1 is an excellent choice for a main EDC light. I carried mine long before Milky modded it to put out more lumens in both modes. But even in stock trim, it definitely gets the job done. Only issue can be the price. At $159 brand new, it is now very over-priced. At around $90 or just under, it's very reasonable and worth getting.
 

jake royston

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I just got mine in the mail today, brand new, still sealed in the original packaging.
65/10 cree model, (6th gen??) for only $115.
There are some good deals out there, im supprised theyre not selling for more than retail since theyre discontinued!
Running an IMR 16340, its the ultimate EDC, IMHO
The clip on it is pretty much useless, so i swapped it out for an LX2 deep cary clip.
It is an awesome light!
 

Monocrom

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I just got mine in the mail today, brand new, still sealed in the original packaging.
65/10 cree model, (6th gen??) for only $115.
There are some good deals out there, im supprised theyre not selling for more than retail since theyre discontinued!
Running an IMR 16340, its the ultimate EDC, IMHO
The clip on it is pretty much useless, so i swapped it out for an LX2 deep cary clip.
It is an awesome light!

The "lack of output" is the main reason the L1 is no longer as popular as it used to be. It should be more popular. But to many, output is everything. 10 lumens, ironically, is seen as too bright as a low mode. While 65 lumens is seen as not even remotely bright enough. To be honest, I've been in situations in which it actually wasn't bright enough. The retail price of $159 is also just too much, compared to the offerings from other companies nowadays. I'd say that right around $90 makes it worth picking up for a used one in excellent condition. Another ironic sticking point is that some find the length to be too long for a single CR123 based light. From the outside, it looks as long as a single AA light. However, I find the slight increase in length to be perfect for making the clip functional and for allowing me to wrap all of my fingers comfortably around the body.

Speaking of the clip, the one on the E1E and E1L are pretty much useless. However, the body of the L1 is just long enough to make a difference. I carry my Milky-modded SF L1 on a daily basis, using the stock clip. Milky improved the output. Low is now 40 lumens while High is now around 200 on a single primary CR123 cell. And that's all he did to the light. Everything else is stock.
 
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jake royston

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I read somewhere on the forums that the l1 cree was tested, and put out over 200 lumens on high running on an IMR cell. It is noticably brighter than my ti v10r which is supposed to be 210 lumens. Its a heck of a thrower, especially for a one cell light. surefire realy under-rates there lights outputs.
 

Monocrom

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I read somewhere on the forums that the l1 cree was tested, and put out over 200 lumens on high running on an IMR cell. It is noticably brighter than my ti v10r which is supposed to be 210 lumens. Its a heck of a thrower, especially for a one cell light. surefire realy under-rates there lights outputs.

The runtime on High mode with my Milky-modded light is much better than a stock L1 Cree using an IMR 16340.

If I had any IMR cells, it would be interesting to see what my custom L1 could pump out.

Don't worry about the internet connection though. Sadly, it wasn't just you today.
 

pulstar

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I can also confirm, that latest generation L1 on RCR is atleast as bright as LX2! I am really sad i sold mine...:(
 

BLUE LED

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Change the LED to a XR-E R2 EZ900 and drop a single AW 16340 and it really comes alive. My old emitter was a little green. I don't think the Surefire L1 gets much credit due to the age of it. I still really like mine.
 

Tommygun45

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Just ordered one on the MP. I have an AWRCR123 protected sitting unused. Will I need to get an orange AWIMR cell to work with the L1? Will that AW Protected cell not fit?
 

Viper715

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AW's protected "black label" RCR123's work fine in my L1 and in all 5 L1's I've had my hands on across the years.
 

bigchelis

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Hi all,
Just in case you missed my testing of a 100% Stock Surefire L1.

The Surefire L1 still is king of sheer throw for a small package.

Here is what you do:
Get a Fivemega E-18650 body or Aleph 17670 body.

Run a IMR 17670 or AW 18650 cell and you will get 15K lux out of that little bezel with 100% stock XR-E. I got over 15K lux and 333 real OTF lumens, but I was pushing it at 1.8A via IMR cells.


So, its still relevant and leap years away for something that small to beat it in throw.


bigC
 

Tommygun45

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Why would the size of the cell matter? Isn't an RCR123 running the same as an 18650 just with less capacity?

Hi all,
Just in case you missed my testing of a 100% Stock Surefire L1.

The Surefire L1 still is king of sheer throw for a small package.

Here is what you do:
Get a Fivemega E-18650 body or Aleph 17670 body.

Run a IMR 17670 or AW 18650 cell and you will get 15K lux out of that little bezel with 100% stock XR-E. I got over 15K lux and 333 real OTF lumens, but I was pushing it at 1.8A via IMR cells.


So, its still relevant and leap years away for something that small to beat it in throw.


bigC
 

bigchelis

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Why would the size of the cell matter? Isn't an RCR123 running the same as an 18650 just with less capacity?

The bigger cells will sag less in general.
Less cell sag = more voltage input
More voltage input under load = more amperage to the LED


Also, IMR/AW vs. cheaper quality variants.

Despite being biggger and unprotected Trustfire for example will sag more than a tiny less dense IMR 18500 or 16340 or 18350.

Just get a mult-meter and take tailcap currents with the combo I mentioned. The amperage will be all over the place depending on the cell.
Then of course say you get really lucky and have a freaky low vF XR-E LED, in that case even the tiny cells will deliver 2A plus. In all my years and tests I have seen only one XR-E R2 net 2.4A off AW CR123 and thats how I keep using it till this day. With custom copper heatsink in L4 bezel though.



bigC
 

Tommygun45

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Good to know. Also how does the tailcap setup work with those bodies and the L1 tailcap. Isn't the L1 cap too wide to fit a standard e series body. For instance, my A2L tailcap can't fit on my E1L body. Would these bodies work? They are compatible with e series parts.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-by-Rothrandir-(Maker-of-Malkoff-accessories)!

Or are you just running it in one mode with an e series tailcap, like a z57?
 

U2VOODOO

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I ordered a new L1 from Brileys, per a post here. I had not received any info for about eight days, so I e-mailed them. They said that as far as they knew they were on order from surefire. Since they are discontinued I dont beleive that this is going to happen.

Did anyone else purchase an L1 from Brileys recently?
 

Brasso

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I ordered one from there too. Like you, I don't have a lot of hope it will show up. I also ordered one from Battery Station that I don't have very high hopes for either. I don't know who has them in stock.

I need a pocket thrower. I don't know whether I should wait for the EB1 with two stage switch, which might just be vaporware like the LX1, or get an LX2.

Update: Apparently I got the last L1 that Battery Station had in stock. Now I guess I need to find one on the market place for a backup.
 
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Monocrom

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I ordered one from there too. Like you, I don't have a lot of hope it will show up. I also ordered one from Battery Station that I don't have very high hopes for either. I don't know who has them in stock.

I need a pocket thrower. I don't know whether I should wait for the E1B with two stage switch, which might just be vaporware like the LX1, or get an LX2.

The L1 is worth tracking down. Best bet is going to be trying to get a used one on the CPF MarketPlace.
 

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